# Fast Motorcycles!



## manxman2000 (May 29, 2014)

Hi Everyone

I have followed this site for a few years and learnt some invaluable stuff - so thanks.

This is my first post (I think!) but a rather pressing one!!

I am taking photos of the Isle of Man TT races (this week and next). I usually go to viewpoints where the bikes go relatively slowly and I pan as they pass me. For one of the races this year though, I have been offered a spot in a friend's garden. The bikes will be coming towards me at between 150 and 180mph, not quite head on, but almost. They will be moving at a fairly constant rate.

I am pondering which technique to use:

a) pre-focus on a point in the road and fire away as the bikes go through that point or

b) attempt to autofocus track the bikes as they come towards me. (If you think this is the best option I would be grateful if you could let me know which autofocus tracking sensitivities you feel would be best.)

I will be using a 5Diii and a 70-200 2.8 II.

Thanks in advance.


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## wickidwombat (May 29, 2014)

read the formula 1 threads and the threads in the sport section about F1 its gonna be basically the same

if you are panning 1/200 sec should be good make sure you use panning mode 2 on the 70-200


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## manxman2000 (May 29, 2014)

Thanks for the reply. Sorry if I didn't make myself clear.

I won't be in a position to pan. They will be too close (maybe 2 metres) as they pass directly in front of me. I will need to take the shot maybe 10 to 15 metres before they get to me so it will almost a head on shot.

Thanks


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## mackguyver (May 29, 2014)

manxman2000, 

I've seen POV videos of that race and those riders are absolutely barking mad (to use the British term ). I've posted the following technique here and there on the forum and it's what I would recommend with the 5DIII and in your situation:

Set Case 3, 61-point automatic selection AF, and SET the initial AF point to where the rider's helmet will appear when he comes into sight. Pre-focus in that area, and wait for the rider with your finger on the shutter and thumb on the (back button) AF button. When the rider enters the frame, lock focus on his helmet, WAIT FOR THE RED LIGHT CONFIRMATION, and the fire away in high speed drive mode. 

I would also recommend doing the pre-focus method as well, pressing the shutter roughly 1/2s before the rider hits the mark. Good luck and stay safe!


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## manxman2000 (May 29, 2014)

Mackguyver

Thanks so much for the advice. I am now really looking forward to giving it a go.

At the speeds the riders will be doing, what shutter speed would be appropriate and how wide should I go with the aperture do you think?

Cheers


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## mackguyver (May 29, 2014)

manxman2000 said:


> Mackguyver
> 
> Thanks so much for the advice. I am now really looking forward to giving it a go.
> 
> ...


No problem and I'm sure you'll have a blast shooting. I'd go wide open or f/4 if it's really bright and use the following (also a bit of a repost) shutter speed settings.:

Use Manual mode - 1/1000s minimum - 1/1500s or higher ideally. Using a gray card (or Caucasian skin tones, or the grass which is close enough) set the ISO until you have a shutter speed around 1/2000s to 1/4000s so you adjust the shutter speed up to 1/8000s (i.e. +2EV) or down to 1/1000s (-1 EV) if using 1/1000s to compensate the exposure for light and dark riders/bikes. Expose for the rider and check the histogram between riders. If the light stays the same, you'll quickly figure out if you need to raise or lower the shutter speed for lighter or darker riders.

Finally, try to get in a position where you can lock on the rider well before they are at a point where you press the shutter. The more time the AF is locked on with the back button, even if it's 1s vs. 1/60s, the better your shots will turn out. That might mean getting up a little higher on a ladder or something or getting in a spot where you can see them coming around the corner before they hit the straight.


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## zim (May 29, 2014)

love the iconic TT please post a few pics, sounds like you have a really great vantage point!


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## Skulker (May 29, 2014)

You may well find it quite difficult to get an in focus shot. The bikes are traveling that fast the camera will struggle to track focus, and you will find it difficult to keep them in the frame. A longer lens will help with fast subjects as you can get the shots from further away, its much easier to get focus.

If I was trying to do that I would be looking to just set the camera on manual, as fast as you can get the shutter on about F8 by pushing the iso as high as you find acceptable. Then I would pre focus and set the camera on high speed drive and hit the button just before the bike arrives. I did this a few years ago at the waterworks and got some reasonable shots with a 7D and a 100-400.

The other thing you can do is vary the height of the camera. I took some shots on the corner at the end of the straight after Parliament square, cant remember the name now, with a wider lens. I was lying on the ground with the camera under the fence. That got some more shots I was pleased with, not the quality you will get with your kit, but they float my boat. Wish I was there with you


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## Skulker (May 29, 2014)

and a few more taken with higher view point, but set up like I described above.

Again you should get some better shots using a 5D, these were quite a while ago. Look at the petrol price!

The one of John McG was on his first 130 lap, I should work on that so you can see his eyes better.


EDIT: just notice these were taken with a 30D not a 7D as I said above, sorry.


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## manxman2000 (Jun 1, 2014)

Thanks again for the replies. I will hopefully get to the vantage point mentioned, either Wednesday or Friday.

Cheers


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## Menace (Jun 1, 2014)

Let us know how it goes


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