# Do I Need $ 634 US Dollars Light meter ?



## surapon (Oct 15, 2014)

Dear Friends and Teachers.
I just finish 1 st. Class of 10 Total class last nigjht , And The Name of The Class = " Creative Camera IV/ Photographic Lighting", Teach by the PRO, and Offer to me by our Local Technical Collage in my home county.
Yes !0 classes = 3 Hours per Class = $ 95 Us Dollars.
I have a great first class last night, And great teacher , that I will learn a lot from this PRO.
My question to my dear teachers and my dear friends in CR. = Do I need Sekonic L-758 Light Meter = $ 634 US Dollars---That Require in my class( Yes, my new teacher tell us to buy Start from the cheapest $ 115 US Dollars and up to high end = $ 634 Us Dollars).
Well, My Hobby is shoot every thing in my sight---But Rearly shoot Studio Photos , In side my Studio Area in my home ( That I already have most of the Require Studio Lighting that can create the great Photos)---
Now, The Question is =Do I need the High cost one---Just for this Class, and I might not use it again . because I do not like to shoot real studio photos?

Thank you Sir/ Madam.
Surapon


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## AcutancePhotography (Oct 15, 2014)

You have to ask yourself two questions

1. What is your in-camera reflective meter not providing you?
2. What would an external meter (reflective and incident and perhaps spot) provide you?

Is the difference worth $634 to you?

There are advantages to using an incident meter and advantages to using a spot meter. Whether these advantages are worth the price to you, is up to you to decide.

I still have an old Setronic light meter from 20 years ago. There are times when it has really helped me, other times when it served as a "second opinion" in a tricky lighting situation, and other times when I never bothered to use it.


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## Old Sarge (Oct 15, 2014)

Like AcutancePhotography, I have an older Sekonic meter, probably close to thirty years old, which I very rarely use for anything except checking exposure when I use my (cheap) studio lights for a project. When I bought it I would also use it to check tricky outdoor light when using my F1 or my Bronica. Haven't used it outdoors since moving to digital.

You said that you don't really like studio photography so I would suggest you find something in the middle of the road. Something like the Sekonic 308 or 478 would be about 1/2 the price of the top of the line and probably do everything you need and more.


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## surapon (Oct 15, 2014)

AcutancePhotography said:


> You have to ask yourself two questions
> 
> 1. What is your in-camera reflective meter not providing you?
> 2. What would an external meter (reflective and incident and perhaps spot) provide you?
> ...



Thousand thanks Dear Friend Mr. AcutancePhotography.
Yes You are right on the Spot, " 1. What is your in-camera reflective meter not providing you?
2. What would an external meter (reflective and incident and perhaps spot) provide you?"

Yes, I am very happy of all Light Meter in Canon 1DS, 7D, 5D MK II and EOS-M ( Canon 20 D)----Special for 1DS that have Multi-Spots meter that get the best Exposure for me where the difficult light conditions..

Only thing that The High cost Handheld Light meter that can do better = in the Studio portrait Lighting, that have many Lights and the Handheld Light meter can save the time---With out Try to shoot 2-3 times and adjust the Manual setting. Yes, My Photix Odin TTL Flashes Control that I use for 3 years are doing the great job for me too.
Thanks you, Sir.
No, I will not buy yet, Until my new teacher show me in the class that Handheld Light meter can save my time and prevent my error camera adjustment that my cameras can not do..

Thanks you, Sir.
Surapon


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## surapon (Oct 15, 2014)

Old Sarge said:


> Like AcutancePhotography, I have an older Sekonic meter, probably close to thirty years old, which I very rarely use for anything except checking exposure when I use my (cheap) studio lights for a project. When I bought it I would also use it to check tricky outdoor light when using my F1 or my Bronica. Haven't used it outdoors since moving to digital.
> 
> You said that you don't really like studio photography so I would suggest you find something in the middle of the road. Something like the Sekonic 308 or 478 would be about 1/2 the price of the top of the line and probably do everything you need and more.




Thank you, Sir, Dear Friend Mr. Old Sarge.
You and Our friend Mr. AcutancePhotography.---Have the same Idea.
Yes, If I buy , I do not have time to use that high tech tool any way, I already love my 99% Exposure perfection of my dear old Cameras----Ha, Ha, ha, Just show off , and let some photographer around me to see , me try to measure the Light at the big insect or the red rose that I try to shoot the Macro photos.
Have a great Hump day, Wednesday.
Surapon


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## RLPhoto (Oct 15, 2014)

I have a sekonic L508 I paid 300$ used. In tandem with the built in light meter in my cyber commander, I've have sped up my lighting at least double the speed when working with 3+ light sources. It takes a different mind set than shoot/chimp/histo check but in the end, the results require less time in post and look better.


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## surapon (Oct 15, 2014)

RLPhoto said:


> I have a sekonic L508 I paid 300$ used. In tandem with the built in light meter in my cyber commander, I've have sped up my lighting at least double the speed when working with 3+ light sources. It takes a different mind set than shoot/chimp/histo check but in the end, the results require less time in post and look better.



Thank you, Sir Dear Mr. RLPhoto.
That a great Idea too, I will go to the Classes first, And Learn the technique from the Pro, and Adapt to my Own way, If that Hendheld Light Meter can save time, with out Try and Error---Yes, I will buy the Mid Range one.
Thanks you , Sir.
Surapon


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## grahamsz (Oct 15, 2014)

What lights are you controlling? 

I have the 758DR because it can talk ControlTL directly. If i have my speedlites set up in different zones then I can actually meter them individually right from the meter. So I can in theory get it to show me the total light falling on a spot, what percentage is ambient and what percentage comes from each of my strobe groups.

That's really the only feature I can think of that really counts above the cheapest used flash spot meters on the market. 

It's not super useful for digital since you can chimp as you go, but in test shoots I've been able to use that arrangement of pocketwizards, canon speedlites with my large format film camera. One of these days I'll think of a project that demands all that gear.

On the upside, Sekonic's gear seems to hold its value really well. I bought one of their older meters off ebay in 2002 and sold it in 2008 for $10 more (iirc).


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## DarioVE (Oct 15, 2014)

I have the seckonic 758 and an old spot meter minolta f 1 degree.
In the old film days it was very valuable to predict the exact exposures and to apply the zone system (see Ansel Adams).
Nowadays most use chimping and istograms, they are a good approximation in ambient light, anyway a lightmeter is more precise.
For flash light and expecially multiple flash or balanced flash it is the only instrument to calculate ratios, istogram don't tell you.
For me, money apart, it is a great instrument to learn light, it force you to *think *about light and you can repeat successful combination of light in any environement.
you can look to webinars sponsored by seckonic with host Joe Brady, obviously it's a marketing thing nonetheless very istructive.
If you are a pro, and know well about lighting, probably you don't need for occasional studio light session.
If you don't need to ettr ambient light with 1/3 ev precision probably you don't need it, you can chimp and bracket. (your camera spot meter could be good enough also if you can zoom in, take a measure, zoom out and shoot).


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## surapon (Oct 18, 2014)

Dear Friends.
Thanks you , Sir , for answer my post. After read your recommendations, I just Have A GAS. Illness again, Go to the local shop, My dear friend's Camera store, And Buy medium cost light meter , Sekonic Touch screen Litemaster PRO L-478DR, and  Mr. Tony my friend, the owner of this store sell me same price as buy from Amazon = $ 399 US Dollars ( yes, include tax in this price), Yes , I also order my new toy Canon 7D MK II = $ 1,799 US Dollars, Plus The New Battery Grip for 7D MK II too = $ ?? US Dollars.
Thanksssss.
Have a great weekend, Sir/ Madam.
Surapon

https://shootthecenterfold.com/new-sekonic-litemaster-pro-l-478d-and-l-478dr-light-meters/


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## Aglet (Oct 18, 2014)

I have a 758 and 558(?) but really only need the simpler 308(?)
The only time I find them useful is when mixing multiple flash sources with some ambient light. And for that it's quite useful. regular incident measurement and spot functions are of little use most times.
Video abilities of the high end models can be useful but you can also do that with a regular meter too and a little in-head math.


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## YuengLinger (Oct 18, 2014)

I'm grateful my Paul C Buff CyberCommander has a built-in accurate flash meter. For studio lights, having the flash meter saves a tremendous amount of time.

For the life of me, I can't see the point of a meter if flash/strobe is not involved. My 5D3, and for that matter, 60D do such a great job. In M mode, I always use Center Weighted, as suggested by a friend, and get consistently excellent exposures.


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## Old Sarge (Oct 18, 2014)

An excellent choice in meters, my friend, and a good buy. And now you have joined the ranks of us waiting for delivery of the 7D II. I to suffer from GAS.


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## Click (Oct 18, 2014)

Congrats on this acquisition Mr Surapon.


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## TexPhoto (Oct 18, 2014)

Call me crazy, but if you are shooting digital, the need for an accurate meter is much less even in studio, because you can shoot, review, adjust, 10 times in 2 minutes. 
And you can probably pick up a used meter on ebay for $20-50 that will get you within a half stop of the high end meter you are looking at.
And last, even a super-duper high end meter is not going to give you a perfect exposure because we all have some personal taste in what we want to see. Are you shooting a scary Halloween scene, where you want it extra dark? Toothpaste commercial, where it has to be extra brute etc? 

On the other hand is this the last piece of the puzzle in $100K studio where you intend to make a living or enjoy your retirement? Is this going to provide the inspiration you need to shoot that piece of art that will hang in a gallery and earn a ton a $$? Go for it.


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## Sporgon (Oct 18, 2014)

TexPhoto said:


> Call me crazy, but if you are shooting digital, the need for an accurate meter is much less even in studio, because you can shoot, review, adjust, 10 times in 2 minutes.
> And you can probably pick up a used meter on ebay for $20-50 that will get you within a half stop of the high end meter you are looking at.
> And last, even a super-duper high end meter is not going to give you a perfect exposure because we all have some personal taste in what we want to see. Are you shooting a scary Halloween scene, where you want it extra dark? Toothpaste commercial, where it has to be extra brute etc?
> 
> On the other hand is this the last piece of the puzzle in $100K studio where you intend to make a living or enjoy your retirement? Is this going to provide the inspiration you need to shoot that piece of art that will hang in a gallery and earn a ton a $$? Go for it.



You're crazy 

I use an incident light meter a fair bit. Knowing where the 'correct' exposure is for a given lighting situation is really useful, at least for me. It also gives a clearer picture of where the histogram should sit in relation to the latitude of the camera.


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## Don Haines (Oct 18, 2014)

TexPhoto said:


> Call me crazy, but if you are shooting digital, the need for an accurate meter is much less even in studio, because you can shoot, review, adjust, 10 times in 2 minutes.
> And you can probably pick up a used meter on ebay for $20-50 that will get you within a half stop of the high end meter you are looking at.
> And last, even a super-duper high end meter is not going to give you a perfect exposure because we all have some personal taste in what we want to see. Are you shooting a scary Halloween scene, where you want it extra dark? Toothpaste commercial, where it has to be extra brute etc?
> 
> On the other hand is this the last piece of the puzzle in $100K studio where you intend to make a living or enjoy your retirement? Is this going to provide the inspiration you need to shoot that piece of art that will hang in a gallery and earn a ton a $$? Go for it.


Back in the good old days, you took the shot, bracketed a bit because you were not sure, and sent the film off for processing and a couple of weeks later (for Kodachrome) you got the slides back and got to see if you exposed properly. In those days, having a light meter let you make a far more accurate assessment of exposure than the in-camera light meter did. A separate light meter was absolutely essential in studio work...
Today, I use the camera light meter to see where the camera thinks exposure should be and use that to expose for a test shot. I look at the test shot on camera.... I can see the histogram.... I can look at the overall image or zoom in to particular areas to see what they look like. I get instant feedback....and a lot of the same info I would get from a light meter....
So if you are going to get a light meter.... Get a REALLY good one that will tell you more about your light than the camera will.


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## Omni Images (Oct 18, 2014)

I bought the Sekonic L-758DR last year, but I use it exclusively for landscape with my film Linhof 617s
I use the 1 deg spot meter and the "average" function. You can also dial in all your filter compensation factors.
You meter on the lightest and darkest points in your shot, can also do a number of mid points if you want, hit "memory" then hit "AVE" it then gives you the average of all the metered points. Brilliant !
I have used it with multi flash (580EXII) pocket wizard Flex TT5's with my digital, the wireless function is great that you use the meter to trigger the flashes.
Outdoor use is great as it seems the weather proofing is top notch, I have used it in light rain and snow.


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## Old Sarge (Oct 18, 2014)

Don Haines said:


> Back in the good old days, you took the shot, bracketed a bit because you were not sure, and sent the film off for processing and a couple of weeks later (for Kodachrome) you got the slides back and got to see if you exposed properly. In those days, having a light meter let you make a far more accurate assessment of exposure than the in-camera light meter did. A separate light meter was absolutely essential in studio work...


And it wasn't like Kodachrome (wasn't it ASA 10?) had any latitude at all. You got it right or didn't get it.


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## TexPhoto (Oct 19, 2014)

Don Haines said:


> TexPhoto said:
> 
> 
> > Call me crazy....
> ...



Not to worry. I am not going to get another one. Actually I have a nice mid 90s Minolta flash meter, and a 1910 era model from my grandfather that seems to work quite well. But my favorites are embedded in my cameras...


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## DigitalDivide (Oct 19, 2014)

Old Sarge said:


> And it wasn't like Kodachrome (wasn't it ASA 10?) had any latitude at all. You got it right or didn't get it.



You have to go back quite a ways to find ASA 10, as it was discontinued in 1962. I used to shoot Kodachrome 64 and 200 on occasion. They had it in 25 ASA for quite a while too but I don't recall if I ever used it. I shot Velvia 50 (exposed at ASA 40 usually) quite a bit for landscapes. That was slow enough for me - it boggles the mind how people got the shots they did when ASA 8 was all they had! ;D 

Slide film in general has a pretty narrow exposure latitude, but I had a pretty good success rate using the in-camera meter on my EOS 10S, provided that I remembered to compensate for backlit subjects. These days I have a nifty Voightlander meter which mounts on a flash shoe, and it works great when I take one of my old medium format cameras out for a spin (most of them didn't come with built-in meters).

I remember thinking that the meter sucked when I first bought my EOS 10S, but I soon discovered that my exposures were fine and it was the print film processing that was the issue. I switched to slide film and the problem went away. I actually find it harder to get the correct exposure on my 5D2, and I find myself checking the histogram and taking the shot again after changing the settings. I probably should just take a class to learn how to do it right... :


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## pwp (Oct 19, 2014)

Sporgon said:


> TexPhoto said:
> 
> 
> > Call me crazy, but if you are shooting digital, the need for an accurate meter is much less even in studio, because you can shoot, review, adjust, 10 times in 2 minutes.
> ...



When I use my Sekonic meter these days it's usually either during a shoot with seriously technical lighting where increments of 1/10 stop across different parts of the shot are worth being aware of. I also use it to get a quick sense of the shape of a multi flash lighting setup ie exact ratios. You can eyeball it but with a flash meter and an assistant you can get the shape right very quickly.

A flash meter is no longer the ultra-critical item it was in the film-era, but it's still useful item with a permanent place in my bag. Surapon, there are probably a lot of extremely high quality light meters up on eBay/Craigslist/Gumtree as photographers find that they are no longer using them. 

-pw


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## Berowne (Oct 19, 2014)

Hi Mr. Surapon, 

with a Sekonic L-758DR you can profile for your Digital-Camera and perhaps optimze the dynamic range of your photos. (500€) With a Sekonic C-500R ProDigi Color you can control color temperature (if you can control it when using different light sources in the Studio) and avoid some postprocessing. (1000€) Do you have an Monitor with autocalibration, good choice for instance an Eizo ColorEdge GC277? (2500€) You will not see the difference when you not use an exactly colorcalibrated Monitor. Do you own the software to make all the needed corrections in your RAW-Files, for instance Photoshop? (1000€) When you want to have total control over your prints, do you have an equipment for the calibration your printer? For instance SpyderStudio from Datacolor. (Another 500€) Your Printer should be able to do the job, Canon Pixma Pro-1 (another 800€) 

With all this stuff you can improve your pictures, if you know what to do. It is not like buying a "sharper" lens and a bit more Megapixel. It does not work automatically. How much money will you spend fo complete control of Exposure and Colors in your pictures? And if you will spend the money, are you willing to learn everything what is needed to use it correctly? 

Sincerely yours Andy


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## scottkinfw (Oct 19, 2014)

I have a light Sekonic (not this model) and never use it. I think that if you are interested in balancing flashes it is the way to go. If that is really important to your work product, get one. If you have a ton of money to spend, buy it. If you don't have a lot of money, a less expensive one will work fine.

If balancing flashes isn't something you will need to do and you are happy with your portraits without the meter, and you don't have money burning a hole in your pocket, borrow one.

sek



surapon said:


> Dear Friends and Teachers.
> I just finish 1 st. Class of 10 Total class last nigjht , And The Name of The Class = " Creative Camera IV/ Photographic Lighting", Teach by the PRO, and Offer to me by our Local Technical Collage in my home county.
> Yes !0 classes = 3 Hours per Class = $ 95 Us Dollars.
> I have a great first class last night, And great teacher , that I will learn a lot from this PRO.
> ...


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## Old Sarge (Oct 19, 2014)

DigitalDivide said:


> Old Sarge said:
> 
> 
> > And it wasn't like Kodachrome (wasn't it ASA 10?) had any latitude at all. You got it right or didn't get it.
> ...


I do go back quite a ways....started shooting 35 m/m in mid-fifties. Before that it was a box Brownie. Had a small dark room before I had a camera (used my mother's). Shot a lot of the ASA 10 stuff. Wasn't the ASA 25 called Kodachrome II and then the 64 was Kodachrome 64. Problem with being old, memory starts to go.


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## surapon (Oct 19, 2014)

THOUSAND THANKS to my dear Teachers and my dear friends.
Thanks for answer my post/ questions about the Light meter for my "Photographic Lighting/ Studio Lighting" for my Class this winter semester.
Yes, I get one = Middle level of Sekonic Light meter 478 DR = $ 399 US Dollars, And Past 2 days, I try to learn to use this Awesome Light Meter with my Photix Odin, and 4 of my Canon Flashes with Soft box, Umbrellas and Light modifier = Graslon 4100F.
Yes, I still have 7 more classes of this great learning with the PRO, my New teacher--Next 2 months.
I will report back to you, Sir/ Madam.
Have a great Sunday.
Surapon.
PS This Sekonic 478 DR. is perfected Fit/ Comunicate with Pocket Wizard ( 422 MHZ), Not With Photix Odin ( 2.4 MHZ.) TTL mode----But I use Photix Wireless Camera shutter control to shoot the flashes and measure by Sekonic light meter.
Yes, On Monday, I will go to see my friend at his local camera store, to test with Photix Aster ( $ 30 US Dollars ) = 433 MHZ to make sure that can fire my flashes from Sekonic light meter. BUT Photix Aster must use only Manual Mode to set Camera and All flashes by our self.


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## bleephotography (Oct 19, 2014)

surapon said:


> THOUSAND THANKS to my dear Teachers and my dear friends.
> Thanks for answer my post/ questions about the Light meter for my "Photographic Lighting/ Studio Lighting" for my Class this winter semester.
> Yes, I get one = Middle level of Sekonic Light meter 478 DR = $ 399 US Dollars, And Past 2 days, I try to learn to use this Awesome Light Meter with my Photix Odin, and 4 of my Canon Flashes with Soft box, Umbrellas and Light modifier = Graslon 4100F.
> Yes, I still have 7 more classes of this great learning with the PRO, my New teacher--Next 2 months.
> ...



Sorry for the shameless plug, but coincidentally I am selling the 478DR :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321556350003?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649


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## surapon (Oct 19, 2014)

bleephotography said:


> surapon said:
> 
> 
> > THOUSAND THANKS to my dear Teachers and my dear friends.
> ...




Dear Friend Mr. bleephotography.
Sorry, I must want to ask you = WHY ?
Why you sell this Sekonic 478 DR---Any Problems that you want to share with us ?.
Thanks.
Surapon


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## bleephotography (Oct 19, 2014)

surapon said:


> bleephotography said:
> 
> 
> > surapon said:
> ...



No problems at all, Surapon. I was using it in conjunction with my PCB Einstein and PW FlexTT5s attached to my speedlites, but now that I've picked up the 600EX-RTs I no longer have use for the PW system. Unfortunately, there are no light meters out there that currently work with the the Canon RT system (the 478DR included), otherwise it is an excellent light meter and works flawlessly with PWs! P.S. I never got around to using the attachable view finder, however, so I cannot attest to that.

Cheers,
Brandon


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## surapon (Oct 20, 2014)

bleephotography said:


> surapon said:
> 
> 
> > bleephotography said:
> ...



THANKSSS, Dear Friend Mr. Brandon.
You make my day, Well I still use Canon 580 EX , and EX II, 550 EX---And do not go to new canon flash system " RT" yet.
Yes, I super worry when you post that , you just try to sell this Sekonic.
Now, I can have a great sleep to night.
Thanks again
Surapon


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## bleephotography (Oct 20, 2014)

surapon said:


> bleephotography said:
> 
> 
> > surapon said:
> ...



Sorry to worry you, Surapon! It truly was just a shameless plug  Enjoy your new light meter and have a great, worry-free sleep


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## dickgrafixstop (Dec 10, 2014)

Do you need a light meter for your class - evidently. Do you need a light meter for $600+ - probably not.
Your best solution might be the light meter ap for your smartphone (iphone and android versions available from
free to $10.00). Not a bad solution and with a little practice and use, you can decide if it's worth it to 
"invest" in more specialized equipment. (Don't forget, the light meter in your camera has made it hard for 
the few manufacturers of light meters to survive.)


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## PhotoCat (Dec 10, 2014)

An incident flash meter is really important in the studio because it will give you
lighting ratio between different lights that your camera meter/histogram will never be able to tell u!

Having said that, u really don't need to buy anything LOL! Just put a white coffee cup in front of
your camera's lens and click. By looking at the histogram, u will be able to tell the lighting ratio...

I know GAS is another thing LOL! "Looking Professional" is of course another consideration.

Wait... you should hv gone with the expensive $634 version!! It gives u a pin-point accurate 
optical spot meter too LOL!


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Dec 10, 2014)

surapon said:


> Dear Friends and Teachers.
> I just finish 1 st. Class of 10 Total class last nigjht , And The Name of The Class = " Creative Camera IV/ Photographic Lighting", Teach by the PRO, and Offer to me by our Local Technical Collage in my home county.
> Yes !0 classes = 3 Hours per Class = $ 95 Us Dollars.
> I have a great first class last night, And great teacher , that I will learn a lot from this PRO.
> ...


 
You are taking the class, and they are apparently teaching the use of a light meter, which is why they recommend getting one.

I'd look on craigslist or ebay for a used one, and if you decided you don't it after the class, sell it for what you paid.

It might be possible to rent or borrow one for the class. 

You should be able to find something like a old Sekonic L308 for $75.


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## surapon (Dec 10, 2014)

Thousand Thanks to All my Teachers and my friends.
Yes, I got the Sekonic Light Meter for my Class, Yes, Sir/Madam, This Light Meter Sekonic Litemaster PRO L-478 DR. is Great for the Photographers, who use Multi-Studio Lights in Studio for Portrait Photos, That Can cut 2-4 times Guessing Shots and adjust the camera---Can do just 2 Shots if We use Light Meter ( The Corected Reading---Ha,. Ha, Ha.) to measure the incident light and get the Best Exposure shots.
No, Not in the bright sun shine light at out door or the shade area at out door, My Canon Camera can do a great job by their own meter, With out get Reflected Light quantity/ Measurement from High End Light Meter---That why, I use my new Sekonic Light meter at out door shooting just 2-3 times and never use it for out door shooting again---BUT, I use in my Studio Shooting with this Sekinic all the times.
Have a great day, Sir/ Madam.
Surapon.


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