# Grease on filter threads?



## Hillsilly (May 7, 2015)

Do you ever put a small amount of grease on your filter threads? If so, what do you use? Graphite? Teflon? Other?


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## Maximilian (May 7, 2015)

Hillsilly said:


> Do you ever put a small amount of grease on your filter threads? If so, what do you use? Graphite? Teflon? Other?


I don't use any kind of lubricant.

B+W says the following:
_"... *in no instance *should you use oil or silicone spray, as these lubricants can find their way between the elements of the lens and can thus cause considerable damage to the imaging performance of the optics."_

See here, last FAQ (How do I release B+W filters that are stuck in place?):
http://www.schneiderkreuznach.com/en/photo-imaging/product-field/b-w-fotofilter/products/faq/

I see the same with, with graphite, teflon, etc. But I haven't found anything about that.


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## wyldeguy (May 7, 2015)

Maximilian said:


> Hillsilly said:
> 
> 
> > Do you ever put a small amount of grease on your filter threads? If so, what do you use? Graphite? Teflon? Other?
> ...



They mentioned oil or silicone spray not to be used to remove the filter. The op is asking if people put some on before attaching. I heard it was recommended for ease of removing later. I believe a Teflon or graphite would be best but I have not used any myself. I was thinking of starting to do it. Just a little dab on the filters thread itself should be enough.


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## Hillsilly (May 7, 2015)

Thanks Maximilian, but as wyldeguy mentions, I'm thinking more about before putting a filter or step-up ring on to help prevent it getting stuck. I've only recently heard of the idea after watching an "angry photographer" youtube video. But the bloke uses Nikon gear and has tattoos. I don't know how trustworthy his suggestions are.


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## Eagle Eye (May 7, 2015)

I've used an _extremely_ small amount of gun oil on filter threads before, literally just touching my pinky to the oil tube and running a thin coat around the threads. The coat really doesn't even need to be visible to reduce the friction. It can be helpful in extreme conditions. I use it on my tripod and tripod head to protect and keep functional. 

Gun oil is good because it's cheap and designed to function in extremely hot and extremely cold conditions. It's important that you don't confuse this with gun solvent, which will eat away anything it touches.


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## AcutancePhotography (May 7, 2015)

I think it would be more beneficial if the threads on the camera and filter were carefully cleaned before putting on the filter. If you are using a good quality filter, I think that grit in the threads is more likely to cause sticking.

I would not put any substance in the threads. I want to remove all the substances in the threads.


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## martti (May 7, 2015)

When I was young, the Specialists told me to use graphite from a soft pencil. Like, draw the threads with a soft pencil. That would leave enough graphite on the surface to lubricate the threads. I had completely forgot...I do not even have a pencil!


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## AE-1Burnham (May 7, 2015)

Call me old fashioned but I always take a graphite pencil and do 1 ring around the threads with it before putting the filter on the lens. Also, all filters in their protective case have been prepped before hand. No problems to date (but I also always buy brass ringed filters...).
NOTE: The same thing is done on the bridge/nut of a cello to allow the metal that little bit of lubrication where the string makes contact with the wood. 8)


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## martti (May 7, 2015)

YO! You are a Specialist! I put lip balm on my guitar nut...


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## AE-1Burnham (May 7, 2015)

I am kind of nuts about lubrication.... Keep rockin' Martti.


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## martti (May 7, 2015)

Glissando, baby!


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## Maximilian (May 7, 2015)

wyldeguy said:


> They mentioned oil or silicone spray not to be used to remove the filter. The op is asking if people put some on before attaching. I heard it was recommended for ease of removing later. I believe a Teflon or graphite would be best but I have not used any myself. I was thinking of starting to do it. Just a little dab on the filters thread itself should be enough.


Of course you can think different of that . 

But please tell me what is the difference between putting lubricant on before mounting the filter or afterwards (for easier mount/dismount) except that you can dose the amount better. 

And in using liquids or really fine particles (like graphite, etc.) I see no difference. Both can get into the optics.

For those who don't care about dust and dirt in their optics or their sensors, this might be absolutely no problem. But reading about concerns and complains of dirty optics or sensors and knowing that not everyone is willing to do cleaning on their own, I would be very carefull with getting my equipment in touch with these intentionally.


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## Maximilian (May 7, 2015)

AcutancePhotography said:


> I think it would be more beneficial if the threads on the camera and filter were carefully cleaned before putting on the filter. If you are using a good quality filter, I think that grit in the threads is more likely to cause sticking.
> 
> I would not put any substance in the threads. I want to remove all the substances in the threads.


Very good point! 

Because all lubricants will start sticking when they get in touch with dirt (e.g. oil) or humidity (e.g. graphite).


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## Mt Spokane Photography (May 7, 2015)

I'd avoid lubricating filter threads. Unfortunately, the threads on the front of a lens are often Aluminum, and a cheap Aluminum filter will stick, sometimes pretty firmly. Using grease or oil will result in it eventually working onto the glass, and then into the lens. Just because you read of someone doing it online does not mean it should be done. 

The solution is to use a higher quality filter which is made of brass. Even with Brass, you can get minor sticking, a cheap lens filter wrench will work if that happens.


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## NancyP (May 7, 2015)

Graphite - #1 pencil or artist's pencil - will do the trick. No oil or grease, please, and skip the "graphite oil" which has some solvents in it that help thin it and get it to work into key cylinder parts - keep the graphite oil for your keyed locks.

I buy predominantly brass filters and brass step rings - I have a few aluminum step rings in odd sizes, and when I have to get aluminum, I splurge for a "name brand" pref. B&W, for better milling.


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## AcutancePhotography (May 7, 2015)

Keep in mind that a graphite pencil has more than graphite in it. It is a mixture of graphite and clay. It is the amount and composition of the clay that gives the different looks of different graphite pencils.

The very properties that make a graphite/clay good for drawing makes it less attractive as a lubricant. Just as using pure graphite would not make for a very good drawing pencil. 

Graphite is soft and brittle. Great as a lubricant, not so great as a pencil. The clay acts as a binder and makes the graphite less soft and less brittle.... great for drawing, but removing the very properties that one wants in a lubricant. 

If you want to use graphite as a lubricant, I would think it would be better to buy actual graphite lubricant (look for no grit or ultra pure). Why introduce clay in any amount when you don't need it. Especially when the clay will act against you as a lubricant.


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## [email protected] (May 7, 2015)

Often the sticking of a filter is exacerbated by the fact that we use two or three fingers at a time to grip the filter and try to twist. These few points of stress wind up very slightly deforming the ring temporarily, which has the perverse effect of making it much less likely to come off. 

One solution I use to some success is to carry a thick rubber band in my bag. I'll stick it around the edges of a balky filter, and it provides very light compression evenly around the ring, just enough to be grippy, and then I can use however many fingers I want to twist the filter off without putting additional pressure inward from the filter toward the glass.

You'll think this is nuts until you try it.

I often have difficulty with polarizers in particular, as I can't quite feel if I'm getting both layers to twist at the same time versus just spinning the outer layer.


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## AcutancePhotography (May 7, 2015)

[email protected] said:


> You'll think this is nuts until you try it.



I don't think so. Using a rubberband as a form of strap wrench for filters is pretty common.... because it works


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## mackguyver (May 7, 2015)

I don't use any lubricant but another idea would be Teflon tape, the kind you use for plumbing fixtures. It works great for that application and being a film versus liquid or powder means that it wouldn't damage the lens.

Also, the most common reason for stuck filters (which I learned here on CR) is heat. I have taken hot lenses into the shade and one time, put one in a Ziploc bag in a refrigerator for a few minutes to remove a filter.

The other secret to getting stuck filters off the lens - strong hands. I found this place when I was rehabbing a hand injury many years ago and use their tools to keep my hands strong:

www.ironmind.com


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## AcutancePhotography (May 7, 2015)

I don't know if PTFE thread seal tape (can't call it Teflon any more) would work out. 

First I don't know if you can get it in that thin widths not to mention that even if you could it would be awkward to use.

Second PTFE tape has a minimum thickness of 3.5 mils that's a lot when it comes to a precision thread to an optic system. I wonder that even you could only put one layer on the threads, would it still have a potential impact on the alignment?

I am not sure using PTFE tape would be worth it. I have never heard of any one in our optical labs at work mention using it.


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## slclick (May 7, 2015)

Bearing Edge Balm.


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## bitm2007 (May 7, 2015)

> I don't think so. Using a rubberband as a form of strap wrench for filters is pretty common.... because it works



An elastic band, supplying even pressure around the circumference of the filter, is an extremely effective and safe option. I never leave home without one.


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## AcutancePhotography (May 7, 2015)

slclick said:


> Bearing Edge Balm.



Does that not have wax in it? I am not sure anything with wax would be a preferred thread lube.


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## martti (May 7, 2015)

It is easy to break the insides of a lens trying to force a stuck filter loose. One should have two clamps, one on the filter and another on the front element thread, twisting in opposite directions. How do I know...


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## AcutancePhotography (May 7, 2015)

martti said:


> It is easy to break the insides of a lens trying to force a stuck filter loose. One should have two clamps, one on the filter and another on the front element thread, twisting in opposite directions. How do I know...



I hope this was a theoretical experiment you based this on???? I hope. ;D

I think many of have learned a lot of things about filters the "hard way" over the years.


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## mackguyver (May 7, 2015)

AcutancePhotography said:


> I don't know if PTFE thread seal tape (can't call it Teflon any more) would work out.
> 
> First I don't know if you can get it in that thin widths not to mention that even if you could it would be awkward to use.
> 
> ...


It's just a thought and it seems like it would be thin enough, but it sounds like you know a lot more about it than I do 

I think metal on metal/plastic is best but there's always anti-seize compound like you use for certain spark plug applications. It works in extreme temperatures - tt's a bit messy and might destroy the lens, though


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## slclick (May 7, 2015)

AcutancePhotography said:


> slclick said:
> 
> 
> > Bearing Edge Balm.
> ...



I was kidding...all the other musicians chimed in, lol. Actually I have never applied anything to filter threads. I buy quality brass ring filters such as B+W and never over tighten them. I would rather deal with frequent hand tightenings than a stuck filter.


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## AcutancePhotography (May 7, 2015)

mackguyver said:


> I think metal on metal/plastic is best but there's always anti-seize compound like you use for certain spark plug applications. It works in extreme temperatures - tt's a bit messy and might destroy the lens, though



That's the issue. Any option has risks. Even putting nothing on the threads has a potential risk of increased sticking. In my opinion, putting anything on the threads of a filter won't have an increased benefit that would offset the increased risk of messing stuff up.

I agree with the other posters

1. Use good quality filters paying attention to not only the quality of the glass but also the quality of the metal ring
2. Don't gorilla grip the filter on to the lens. Pinky finger tight is plenty
3. Have a good set of appropriately sized filter wrenches just in case. I have it on *very good* authority that vice grips don't work so swell. 

Following these steps, I really don't see a need to put anything on the threads


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## distant.star (May 8, 2015)

.
SWAK -- works every time.

Whenever you thread up a new filter, find the best looking woman around, and have her give it a kiss.

Never fails!


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## sanj (May 8, 2015)

Hillsilly said:


> Thanks Maximilian, but as wyldeguy mentions, I'm thinking more about before putting a filter or step-up ring on to help prevent it getting stuck. I've only recently heard of the idea after watching an "angry photographer" youtube video. But the bloke uses Nikon gear and has tattoos. I don't know how trustworthy his suggestions are.



hahahaha


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## pwp (May 8, 2015)

Save lube for other activities. Keep it simple. Using a lubricant, or the wrong lubricant in the wrong place can lead to a regretted nuisance or an expensive nuisance. 

Don't lube filter threads, regardless of what anyone in this thread suggests.
Don't screw a filter onto a damaged lens thread.
Do buy good quality filters, preferably brass. 
Do keep threads clean, just like the rest of your equipment.

I have used protective filters on all my lenses for 30+ years, frequently swapping out for CPL's. Pre-digital, I had a box of CC (color-correction filters) and was constantly changing them to suit the project. The only filter that ever got stuck was due to thread damage and my (then) inexperience.

-pw


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## Valvebounce (May 8, 2015)

Hi Hillsilly. 
My main reason for not using lubricant is that any wet lubricant will catch dust and not let it come off easily, we all know how tight tolerance these threads are, with a few microns of dust added you are heading towards an interference fit, i.e. more difficult to remove. Dry lubes already have their own thickness where wet lubes will work at film thickness, as little as 1 molecule thick I think. 

Cheers, Graham.


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