# How are you setting up your EOS R



## RGF (Oct 12, 2018)

If you purchased an EOS R, how are you setting it up?

There are some new controls, old familar ones are gone, how do you plan to configure your R? Hope to start testing on Monday but not sure if call the pieces will arrive in time


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## gcl (Oct 12, 2018)

Mine hasn't arrived yet either, but when it does I plan to refer to the post on www.the-digital-picture.com titled "39 Steps to the Perfect Canon EOS R Setup."

https://www.the-digital-picture.com/News/News-Post.aspx?News=28629


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## Jethro (Oct 13, 2018)

gcl said:


> Mine hasn't arrived yet either, but when it does I plan to refer to the post on www.the-digital-picture.com titled "39 Steps to the Perfect Canon EOS R Setup."
> 
> https://www.the-digital-picture.com/News/News-Post.aspx?News=28629


Really useful tips - thanks!


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## RGF (Oct 13, 2018)

gcl said:


> Mine hasn't arrived yet either, but when it does I plan to refer to the post on www.the-digital-picture.com titled "39 Steps to the Perfect Canon EOS R Setup."
> 
> https://www.the-digital-picture.com/News/News-Post.aspx?News=28629



Thanks - I'll check it out. I think Kelby One also an intro video.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Oct 13, 2018)

Mine is scheduled for Monday arrival.

I've learned to do a few things over the years.

1. Since I'll use a existing SD card for now, I'll format it im my computer first. If I just put a card thats been used in my other cameras, it will pickup the last used photo number and start at something like 7278 or whatever. After that, I'll dedicate two or more SD cards to that camera depending on the size I choose, likely 64 or 128GB.

2. I use the default settings and only change them if I find a need for a different setting. I've found that changing settings when I don't know all of the ramifications can produce a unexpected result. I'll need to make sure peripheral correction is off before using a 3rd party lens, for example.

3. I first attach a camera to a extremely stable mount, like my 100+ lb light table and take several photos to verify accurate autofocus, exposure, and other operational aspects.

4. Having proven in step 3 that the camera is capable of very sharp and properly exposed images, I start using it and learning the controls. If there appears to be a issue, I then know that the problem is me and not the camera. I use my SL2 and 5D MK IV in live mode whenever possible due to the touch to focus feature which gives very few OOF images, usually because I moved. I expect that feature to fit right in, and being able to use the viewfinder in bright sunlight is going to be great.

5. My SL2 is going to my Granddaughter for her birthday. She is very interested in photography and does great with her P&S, it will be her first DSLR.


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## Talys (Oct 13, 2018)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> Mine is scheduled for Monday arrival.
> 
> I've learned to do a few things over the years.
> 
> 1. Since I'll use a existing SD card for now, I'll format it im my computer first. If I just put a card thats been used in my other cameras, it will pickup the last used photo number and start at something like 7278 or whatever. After that, I'll dedicate two or more SD cards to that camera depending on the size I choose, likely 64 or 128GB.



For those that don't have it, use the SD Card Formatter from the SD Association to do a low level format:

https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_4/

I have tried various benchmarks, and this tool makes a huge difference in performance, especially on older cards I've used for a while.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Oct 14, 2018)

Talys said:


> For those that don't have it, use the SD Card Formatter from the SD Association to do a low level format:
> 
> https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_4/
> 
> I have tried various benchmarks, and this tool makes a huge difference in performance, especially on older cards I've used for a while.


Yes, the big drawback with SD cards is they slow down after being written to. Once a memory cell contains data, then the memory must be erased one block at a time before it can be written to, and that is a relatively slow process. A low level format can be done in a PC, the card recovery software I use has a low level format option, and Canon cameras also have a low level format option. 

I do low level formats of my SD cards periodically to keep them running at their fastest.


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## Viggo (Oct 14, 2018)

Why not ever time?


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Oct 16, 2018)

Viggo said:


> Why not ever time?


Low level formatting, at least true low level formatting writes zeros or 1's to every memory cell. You can wear out a card much more quickly by doing that. 

The Canon in camera low level format takes advantage of a function in the card controller to quickly overwrite the card with all zeros or ones depending on the exact command sent.


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## vaotix (Oct 16, 2018)

I did all my initial setup already. I'm still trying to decide exactly how to set up all the dials and such. Ideally, I'd love to have the control ring do aperture control, the top wheel do shutter speed, the Fn bar do ISO, and the dial around the Mode button do exposure comp. But Canon won't let me assign anything except ISO/aperture/shutter speed to the mode dial. I don't want redundant controls so I may have to rework things a bit and figure out what I like.


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## Kit Lens Jockey (Oct 16, 2018)

How are you guys setting up the touch and drag autofocus?

It seems like setting it to "relative" leaves the speed of movement in relation to your finger to be a little slow. So I went to "absolute."

Initially I landed on setting the active area to "bottom left" and used the thumb of my left finger to move the point around. Someone else suggested setting it to "top right" and using your right thumb to move the point around. However, I think setting it to both "top right" and "absolute" means it's very hard to reach my right thumb all the way over to the middle area of the screen. Therefore it's very hard to move the AF point all the way to the left side of the frame.


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## vaotix (Oct 16, 2018)

Kit Lens Jockey said:


> How are you guys setting up the touch and drag autofocus?
> 
> It seems like setting it to "relative" leaves the speed of movement in relation to your finger to be a little slow. So I went to "absolute."
> 
> Initially I landed on setting the active area to "bottom left" and used the thumb of my left finger to move the point around. Someone else suggested setting it to "top right" and using your right thumb to move the point around. However, I think setting it to both "top right" and "absolute" means it's very hard to reach my right thumb all the way over to the middle area of the screen. Therefore it's very hard to move the AF point all the way to the left side of the frame.



I haven't changed it from the default yet. But will likely play with it more next time I shoot. The default settings aren't terrible, but there is a noticeable lag.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Oct 16, 2018)

Kit Lens Jockey said:


> How are you guys setting up the touch and drag autofocus?
> 
> It seems like setting it to "relative" leaves the speed of movement in relation to your finger to be a little slow. So I went to "absolute."
> 
> Initially I landed on setting the active area to "bottom left" and used the thumb of my left finger to move the point around. Someone else suggested setting it to "top right" and using your right thumb to move the point around. However, I think setting it to both "top right" and "absolute" means it's very hard to reach my right thumb all the way over to the middle area of the screen. Therefore it's very hard to move the AF point all the way to the left side of the frame.


I tried it, but it seems difficult for me to operate, I prefer just the center point most of the time anyway.


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## Viggo (Oct 16, 2018)

I got mine today and I set it to “top right” and it works quite okay the way it just nails critical focus compared to my 1dx2 is beautiful. And anywhere in the frame, tack sharp, never any doubt. What a difference !Wow


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## Kit Lens Jockey (Oct 16, 2018)

Viggo said:


> I got mine today and I set it to “top right” and it works quite okay the way it just nails critical focus compared to my 1dx2 is beautiful. And anywhere in the frame, tack sharp, never any doubt. What a difference !Wow


Do you have it as top right relative or top right absolute? And if it's top right absolute, then isn't it difficult to select focus points on the left side of the frame without having to move your whole right hand off of the main controls?

I'm thinking I might give top right relative a try, but the point seems to move so slowly when set to relative. Set to absolute you can get the point to jump right to where you want it with enough practice.


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## Viggo (Oct 16, 2018)

Kit Lens Jockey said:


> Do you have it as top right relative or top right absolute? And if it's top right absolute, then isn't it difficult to select focus points on the left side of the frame without having to move your whole right hand off of the main controls?
> 
> I'm thinking I might give top right relative a try, but the point seems to move so slowly when set to relative. Set to absolute you can get the point to jump right to where you want it with enough practice.


I switched and think I liked it better when I can use the whole screen, it responded faster also. I didn’t like the touchbar, it doesn’t respond good enough...


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## Pooshoes (Oct 18, 2018)

I've set mine to "Right" and "Absolute" it feels the most accurate and easy to use for me. 




Viggo said:


> I switched and think I liked it better when I can use the whole screen, it responded faster also. I didn’t like the touchbar, it doesn’t respond good enough...





Kit Lens Jockey said:


> How are you guys setting up the touch and drag autofocus?
> 
> It seems like setting it to "relative" leaves the speed of movement in relation to your finger to be a little slow. So I went to "absolute."
> 
> Initially I landed on setting the active area to "bottom left" and used the thumb of my left finger to move the point around. Someone else suggested setting it to "top right" and using your right thumb to move the point around. However, I think setting it to both "top right" and "absolute" means it's very hard to reach my right thumb all the way over to the middle area of the screen. Therefore it's very hard to move the AF point all the way to the left side of the frame.


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## Act444 (Oct 19, 2018)

I found “top right relative” to be slow and somewhat laggy. Top right absolute was kind of the opposite, jumpy with a slight lag. I was not able to test any other configurations in the time I had it.


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## SereneSpeed (Oct 19, 2018)

Am I doing something wrong? I don't have small hands, but I find that when using my right thumb, I have to release my right hand grip on the camera to get the AF point to the left side of the EVF. This is with either 'top right' or 'bottom right' selected.

I am used to having a solid grip on the camera, so this turns the shooting process into a two-step process. First, set the AF location, and then re-grip the camera and depress the shutter release.

I wish I could use a smaller area of the touch screen.


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## photennek (Oct 25, 2018)

For touch and drag focus I'm using the whole right side, relative. I tried absolute, and though it was faster, I found it harder to be as accurate, as when I released my finger from the screen, the point still moved slightly or so.

Otherwise, still waiting for the adapter with control ring. When I get it, I'll likely use it for ISO or exposure compensation, not sure yet. I shoot manual 95% of time, and shutter speed is on front dial, and aperture on back / thump dial. Multi function bar I find somewhat frustrating, but I set the 2-second lock function on it and assigned the left button the live histogram. No other functions there yet. AF ON button I'm using for exposure compensation (hold it down and scroll the front dial). If I end up using back-button focusing, I'll move that exposure compensation to the '*' button next to it.

On the arrow buttons around the 'Q', I set UP arrow to switch between single / continous focus, DOWN arrow to put camera to sleep, and LEFT / RIGHT I use for eye detection on / off and the other for something I don't remember right now... 

So quite a bit configuration, but still feeling how it can be optimized even more. Waiting for the control ring adapter... Currently my biggest question is how to optimize changing between autofocus modes/methods. Right now I use the top Mfn-button to open the "dialogue", and use top dial to change the value. This requires that I make sure I always leave the "dialogue" to the state where it points to the auto focus options (using the back dial), and sometimes I forget to do that and it messes up my quick configuration changes...


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## Larsskv (Oct 25, 2018)

SereneSpeed said:


> Am I doing something wrong? I don't have small hands, but I find that when using my right thumb, I have to release my right hand grip on the camera to get the AF point to the left side of the EVF. This is with either 'top right' or 'bottom right' selected.
> 
> I am used to having a solid grip on the camera, so this turns the shooting process into a two-step process. First, set the AF location, and then re-grip the camera and depress the shutter release.
> 
> I wish I could use a smaller area of the touch screen.



I have the same problem. I decided to use the bottom left part of the screen for touch and drag focus. On my M5 it is easy to use the upper right part of the screen. 

Anyway, bottom left seems ok. I am not sold on it, but I use the face detection in AI Servo mode most of the time, and it works very well. I rarely need to use the touch and drag focus. 

The hit rate I get with large apertures is fantastic! However, if the camera focuses on the wrong face I haven’t found a simple way for it to switch between faces. 

I am not shure I wish for a joystick. A joystick is fine when you have a limited amount of AF points. When you get to a point, more AF points makes it a hassle to get to where you want. I think a joystick will be slower than the touch screen on the R cameras. Let’s hope they improve the touch and drag focus in a firmware update.


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## SereneSpeed (Oct 25, 2018)

Larsskv said:


> I have the same problem. I decided to use the bottom left part of the screen for touch and drag focus. On my M5 it is easy to use the upper right part of the screen.
> 
> Anyway, bottom left seems ok. I am not sold on it, but I use the face detection in AI Servo mode most of the time, and it works very well. I rarely need to use the touch and drag focus.
> 
> ...



The theory of using 'Relative' touch and drag on a quadrant of the screen was great. But 'Relative' made the AF point laggy with area limited to any quarter of the screen. At one point I switched to the full screen and 'Relative' and I found a setup that works very well for me. I also set the touch screen sensitivity to 'Sensitive'. The AF point now moves smoothly and accurately. I just need to learn some new muscle memory.

I would like a reduction in the number of AF points. I always used 41 of the 61 on my 5D4. I don't have any problem framing my intended composition a bit loose and having to direct the camera/lens at an AF point that is very close to where it needs to be. The result in the end - for me - is the same as framing and moving the AF point to the exact spot I want critical focus. But right now, the latter takes longer.

Their are a lot of ways to improve AF point selection. Canon must want to convert it's professional users and sport/wildlife/action photographers to the RF system, so I have complete confidence that they will make a very capable system in the next couple of years.

In the mean time. I love the EOS R. For professional work I'm still using it for any shot that's not mission critical. I'm just carrying two cards and swapping them often. While I use one, I backup the other and create previews to ensure nothing is corrupt. For the very important shots and the wedding I'm shooting next week, I'll mostly be using my 5D4. But with a week of EOS R ownership behind me, I adore this little camera and it's mirrorless ways... Canon has another silent winner here - I'm confident of that. This camera will sell a lot of units. Maybe not to spec sheet enthusiast. But this camera is very capable.


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## SereneSpeed (Oct 25, 2018)

I would be grateful for a couple minutes of someones time...

Could someone please go to the playback menu - tab 3, and set "Magnificatn (apx)" to "Actual size (from selected pt)".

Please let me know if that works. What is supposed to happen is when you press the playback button, and then the magnification button, the image is supposed to be magnified to 100% and centred on where the AF point was when the photo was taken.

What is happening is that it always goes 100% to the centre of the image. Regardless of where I AF'd from (which is the behaviour that is expected if AF was disabled).

I shoot a lot of my images at f1.4-2.0 and checking is important. It's part of my workflow and this is slowing me down. This might be an easily documented bug - if it's repeatable on multiple cameras...

Thanks in advance!


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## Viggo (Oct 25, 2018)

SereneSpeed said:


> I would be grateful for a couple minutes of someones time...
> 
> Could someone please go to the playback menu - tab 3, and set "Magnificatn (apx)" to "Actual size (from selected pt)".
> 
> ...




It’s not a bug. It doesn’t work with single point, it only works when using multiple points, auto select...

I’ve used this method for a decade and was seriously dissapointed it didn’t work with single point, so what I do is double tap where I focused instead, it’s a habit already .

It’s also stated in the manual that it might not work in all focus modes.


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## SereneSpeed (Oct 26, 2018)

Viggo said:


> It’s not a bug. It doesn’t work with single point, it only works when using multiple points, auto select...
> 
> I’ve used this method for a decade and was seriously dissapointed it didn’t work with single point, so what I do is double tap where I focused instead, it’s a habit already .
> 
> It’s also stated in the manual that it might not work in all focus modes.



I believe it is a bug.

The manual is clear as to the proper function.

It works as I described it - in single point - on the 1DxII, 5D3 and 5D4. Its a valuable tool.


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## Viggo (Oct 26, 2018)

SereneSpeed said:


> I believe it is a bug.
> 
> The manual is clear as to the proper function.
> 
> It works as I described it - in single point - on the 1DxII, 5D3 and 5D4. Its a valuable tool.


Of course it’s valuable, I would love to have it, but when it works in other modes, and is stated it doesn’t work with every mode, I think it’s just the way it is, kind of a big thing to miss for Canon in case of a bug...

But maybe later firmware can actually make it happen anyway...


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## SereneSpeed (Oct 26, 2018)

Viggo said:


> Of course it’s valuable, I would love to have it, but when it works in other modes, and is stated it doesn’t work with every mode, I think it’s just the way it is, kind of a big thing to miss for Canon in case of a bug...
> 
> But maybe later firmware can actually make it happen anyway...



Well then... I'm just going to be completely stubborn and keep calling it a bug! ;-)

That will be a hard feature to live without. I was so excited with the EVF playback. I've already got the muscle memory to review and zoom the image without moving my eye from the EVF. But, the d-pad really slows things down and in that case, you are correct, the double tap on the screen is much quicker.

I'll just be in the corner pouting...

...silly canon.

That and making the RAW files transferable to the app (like JPEGs are) while still writing to the card, would make me very happy. Not to mention if RAW files could be transfered to the app (and written to the card), the lack of a second card slot becomes an inconvenience, not a dealbreaker. It only takes 4 seconds to transfer a RAW... Canon, are you listening? 

(PLEASE)


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## Viggo (Oct 26, 2018)

Does anyone know why sometimes or quite often I can’t see the AF point, then discover it’s smashed into a corner or at the very bottom when I wake the camera up? It’s VERY annoying when something happens fast and I can’t find my AF point... happens in all modes afaik...


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## Act444 (Oct 26, 2018)

^ is there a button you can press/hold to return the AF point to the center?


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## caMARYnon (Oct 26, 2018)

Viggo said:


> Does anyone know why sometimes or quite often I can’t see the AF point, then discover it’s smashed into a corner or at the very bottom when I wake the camera up? It’s VERY annoying when something happens fast and I can’t find my AF point... happens in all modes afaik...


click the trash and it will come to center


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## Viggo (Oct 26, 2018)

Act444 said:


> ^ is there a button you can press/hold to return the AF point to the center?



Yes, I have two... but I wish it would just be where I left it... Or at least go back to center... especially since I’m used to DSLR I can follow a subject without draining the battery, my R is set to 15 second sleep....


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## SereneSpeed (Oct 26, 2018)

I've had that happen and just assumed I touched the screen inadvertently. The sensor that detects when your eye comes close to the EVF works too far out (in my opinion) and the touch and drag AF becomes active too soon.

I've definitely experienced what you describe. Although, I'm not 100% certain of the cause.


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## Viggo (Oct 26, 2018)

SereneSpeed said:


> I've had that happen and just assumed I touched the screen inadvertently. The sensor that detects when your eye comes close to the EVF works too far out (in my opinion) and the touch and drag AF becomes active too soon.
> 
> I've definitely experienced what you describe. Although, I'm not 100% certain of the cause.


Fingers crossed it’s a bug.

I agree with the VF sensor, I tried to use the flip out with the screen and initially thought it was a bad connection and that the hinges caused it, because the screen blacked out every time I flipped it, but turned out I was too close to my sweater


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## bhf3737 (Oct 26, 2018)

Act444 said:


> ^ is there a button you can press/hold to return the AF point to the center?


I have set the red Video Record button (in photo mode) to jump to center AF point. It will retain its video record functionality in movie mode.


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## dak723 (Oct 26, 2018)

SereneSpeed said:


> Well then... I'm just going to be completely stubborn and keep calling it a bug! ;-)
> 
> That will be a hard feature to live without. I was so excited with the EVF playback. I've already got the muscle memory to review and zoom the image without moving my eye from the EVF. But, the d-pad really slows things down and in that case, you are correct, the double tap on the screen is much quicker.
> 
> ...



No, Canon is not listening to this site, but if you really care, please use the contact page on Canon's website. Then you will actually be contacting Canon. This site has no connection or affiliation with Canon.


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## mirage (Oct 27, 2018)

dak723 said:


> No, Canon is not listening to this site,



rest assured Canon is VERY CLOSELY following this site and our forum posts and any other important internet fora.


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## dak723 (Oct 27, 2018)

mirage said:


> rest assured Canon is VERY CLOSELY following this site and our forum posts and any other important internet fora.




Ha Ha - Good one!


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## Jethro (Oct 27, 2018)

mirage said:


> rest assured Canon is VERY CLOSELY following this site and our forum posts and any other important internet fora.


Friend, you are well named ...


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## mirage (Oct 27, 2018)

Some here seem to be rather delusional how large corporations observe, follow and try to impact and shape internet content and relevant-to-them public opinion. Even more so when it is about B2C / consumer goods. Market Research and Corp Communication Depts would be fired on the spot if they did not.

DPR and CR rumors are the most visible and prominent English-language internet portals and forums as far as Canon imaging products are concerned. products. Canon is watching them, that's for sure. And not all, but quite some of our opinions, wishes, complaints and rants will have direct influence on their product strategy and on specific (future) product's specs.

I am convinced that a few threads and postings on a specific topic have much more (potential) impact and achieve much more with companies like Canon than many 1000 direct contacts via the useless black-hole "contact us" forms on their own websites.

Brand product companies shun nothing more than highly visible, widely distributed "negative vibes" on the net / in public.

Good example is the turning direction of focus and zoom rings on 3rd party lenses. For many decades Sigma, Tamron, Tokina did just as they pleased. But soon after i launched a consequent campaign, massively critizising "wrong turning rings" in many relevant internet portals' comments / forum section with every single new lens announcement, these companies started to match turn direction to mount. They did not care to do so before, although i am sure they also received a good bit of direct feedback on the issue - but only "in private". So they simply ignored it. I called them out in public and they fairly quickly changed things for the better. Just one of my many successful "consumer rights initiatives on the net". No, i am not Russian, don't use fake news and am not responsible for Donald being POTUS ... 

We have a lot of power as customers. First and foremost with our wallets / purchasing decisions. And in addition to a similar degree by publicly sharing what we think of companies' products, services, strategies and business practices. It does have enormous influence, even when it often may not immediately lead to noticeable action. Corporations can ignore it, but only at their own, considerable risk. Smart companies take it seriously, see the business opportunities in internet feedback and take adequate steps to "pacify and please" their (potential) customers.

For example: the 3 useful EF to RF adapters. Not least thanks to our "incessant whinging and whining about all the EF glass owned" on the great CR forum. Let's keep it up!


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## Larsskv (Oct 27, 2018)

I have an issue with the ISO settings with my EOS R. 

When using a flash in auto ISO, I am used to the camera setting the ISO to 400, and adjust the exposure with ETTL in the flash. The EOS R doesn’t. When I used it this morning, the camera chose ISO 1600 even though the flash was on. No big deal? I set the ISO to 100 using the control ring. Problem solved? No! The EOS R jumped back to Auto ISO after taking one shot (or after approximately 15 seconds). 

This really bugs me. I wonder if I have to use one of the custom settings for flash use, and disable auto ISO, and set the selectable ISO range from 100-400. 

Has anyone experienced this, and found another solution?


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