# Linked Shooting mode ST-E3-RT Advice



## Jack Douglas (Oct 17, 2017)

Since my 1DX2 doesn't have remote unless I fork out big dollars I am wondering if this is a viable option - mount the 600 flash on the camera and use the ST-E3-RT as a remote trigger. I guess the obvious downside is that it's just shutter release. I can purchase a trigger that is useful to me for flash purposes for USD $140 and that's what started this thought process. Anyone using this mode?

Jack


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## Jopa (Oct 17, 2017)

Jack Douglas said:


> Since my 1DX2 doesn't have remote unless I fork out big dollars I am wondering if this is a viable option - mount the 600 flash on the camera and use the ST-E3-RT as a remote trigger. I guess the obvious downside is that it's just shutter release. I can purchase a trigger that is useful to me for flash purposes for USD $140 and that's what started this thought process. Anyone using this mode?
> 
> Jack



Jack, you can have one under $100 and it's really awesome. The range and features are amazing.

Hardware:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088PPFP4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EK4IRRE/

Software (Android or jailbroken iOS):
http://dslrcontroller.com/guide-wifi_mr3040.php

For the "normal" iOS you need a different firmware and app - https://dslrdashboard.info/

I know there is some overpriced commercial product that's using the same modem but rebranded.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 17, 2017)

Jopa said:


> Jack Douglas said:
> 
> 
> > Since my 1DX2 doesn't have remote unless I fork out big dollars I am wondering if this is a viable option - mount the 600 flash on the camera and use the ST-E3-RT as a remote trigger. I guess the obvious downside is that it's just shutter release. I can purchase a trigger that is useful to me for flash purposes for USD $140 and that's what started this thought process. Anyone using this mode?
> ...



WOW, thanks very much for this information. It looks like the way to go but I'll have to study it all to understand better given I'm not a youngster familiar with all the technology.

Looks like I'll still pick up the ST-E3-RT (US $128) for flash purposes but not really anticipate it being overly useful relating to my original question.

Jack


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## privatebydesign (Oct 18, 2017)

I use the ST-E3-RT and the_ "overpriced commercial product"_ which, quite frankly, isn't overpriced when you consider it is 100% stable in a professional environment and you get replies to emails from the developer within hours, you also never have to 'load a new firmware' and new camera support just works.

I actually use them both at the same time when I am doing twilight real estate shoots with patches of flash to layer in, I fire the camera with the flash and look at the result via the CamRanger on the iPad.

Both are very useful tools and when you consider how well the CamRanger holds its value it isn't too bad a purchase either. Or get one off eBay and by the time you sell it, if you don't like it, you have lost nothing but your eBay commission.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 18, 2017)

Well I now have the ST-E3-RT and using it to fire my two flashes is straight forward but I couldn't get it to fire my 1DX2 with the flash as a slave mounted on it. The link light would be green and as I held the ST-E3-RT linked button down to get into linked shooting master mode, it would go out. Finally gave up. 

Jack


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## privatebydesign (Oct 18, 2017)

Try this, put the ST-E3-RT on the camera, power up one 600-EX-RT, the ST-E3-RT should be the Master. On the 600 push the menu button until you get the REL option on the left. push that, the camera and the flash in your hand should fire. The is not Linked Shooting Mode, this is just remote REL mode.

If you want to fire the camera with a hotshot mounted flash from the handheld ST-E3-RT then I think you have to have the camera mounted flash set to Linked Slave and the ST-E3-RT set to Linked Master, then push the REL button to fire the camera and flash from the ST-E3-RT. This is single camera Linked Shooting mode.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 18, 2017)

Scott, manual page 46 bottom is confusing me as it seems to suggest that it's possible to fire cameras with slave flashes using REL without the master being on a camera. That is why I figured I could hand hold the ST-E3-RT and fire my camera with its flash set as slave. Too tired to think, maybe tomorrow will be better.

I do understand your suggestion as a workaround way of remote firing my camera and that could be useful perhaps.

Edit: rereading your comment that's exactly what I was trying to do but the green light doesn't remain on as I transition into linked shooting mode so pushing REL does nothing.

Jack


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## scottkinfw (Oct 18, 2017)

I would add that the CamRanger is much more than a remote trigger. It allows you to adjust all of the camera settings remotely from up to 100 ft. It also allows for tethering to an iPad with ability to focus from the iPad. I believe it lets you do focus stacking to. Time lapse, no problem. 

For us old guys, if you can work a 1DX II, you can use this. It will take some practice and reading of manual before you go out and use it.

A smaller and less able alternative is the Alpine Labs Pulse. 

https://alpinelaboratories.com/pages/pulse

Have fun.

Scott


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## privatebydesign (Oct 18, 2017)

I realized my reply was incomplete and edited it as you replied. Try the steps again, the camera mounted flash must be in Linked Shooting Slave mode, the handheld ST-E3-RT must be in Linked Shooting Master mode.


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## scottkinfw (Oct 18, 2017)

I don't see how this would work. I think the st needs to be on the hot shoe, and in the master setting. 

Scott


Jack Douglas said:


> Scott, manual page 46 bottom is confusing me as it seems to suggest that it's possible to fire cameras with slave flashes using REL without the master being on a camera. That is why I figured I could hand hold the ST-E3-RT and fire my camera with its flash set as slave. Too tired to think, maybe tomorrow will be better.
> 
> I do understand your suggestion as a workaround way of remote firing my camera and that could be useful perhaps.
> 
> Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 18, 2017)

The one thing I didn't realize was that the flash itself has a linked mode as I've never tried holding the link button down. Will try it right now.

Edit: Just got the 600 into linked mode so I expect that will do the trick. Thanks Scott! 

Edit: The camera fired but not the flash??

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 18, 2017)

I do appreciate the significant advantage of the cam ranger etc. and will look into that so I can at least be back to similar remote operation I had with the 6D. Thanks Guys.

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 18, 2017)

No way can I get the slave flash mounted on the 1DX2 to fire when the camera shutter is remote activated. Well, that does give a remote RF release function that I didn't have with the 1DX2 at all before. Except maybe I did based on owning two 600's and not realizing there was this linked shooting mode??

Jack


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## privatebydesign (Oct 18, 2017)

Jack Douglas said:


> No way can I get the slave flash mounted on the 1DX2 to fire when the camera shutter is remote activated. Well, that does give a remote RF release function that I didn't have with the 1DX2 at all before. Except maybe I did based on owning two 600's and not realizing there was this linked shooting mode??
> 
> Jack



No with two 600's you are just shooting REL mode not Linked, therefore you get the capacity to fire both flashes, or just one, or none, it is your choice in simple REL.


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## Jopa (Oct 18, 2017)

scottkinfw said:


> I would add that the CamRanger is much more than a remote trigger. It allows you to adjust all of the camera settings remotely from up to 100 ft. It also allows for tethering to an iPad with ability to focus from the iPad. I believe it lets you do focus stacking to. Time lapse, no problem.



You can do the same with DSLR Controller, but 3-4 times cheaper  100% same hardware (no longer supported by TP-Link though). This guy claims the modem cost around $29 in 2016: https://petapixel.com/2016/07/14/wirelessly-control-dslr-less-40/. But since it's discontinued and no longer manufactured the price went up probably. The good news is qDSLRDashboard uses unmodified OpenWRT and can work with virtually any OpenWRT device, and the list of compatible hardware is huge. Someone mentioned a $15 device from AliExpress https://dslrdashboard.info/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=2170.


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## Jopa (Oct 18, 2017)

privatebydesign said:


> I use the ST-E3-RT and the_ "overpriced commercial product"_ which, quite frankly, isn't overpriced when you consider it is 100% stable in a professional environment and you get replies to emails from the developer within hours, you also never have to 'load a new firmware' and new camera support just works.
> 
> I actually use them both at the same time when I am doing twilight real estate shoots with patches of flash to layer in, I fire the camera with the flash and look at the result via the CamRanger on the iPad.
> 
> Both are very useful tools and when you consider how well the CamRanger holds its value it isn't too bad a purchase either. Or get one off eBay and by the time you sell it, if you don't like it, you have lost nothing but your eBay commission.



TP-Link doesn't support the modem anymore, and even if the developer can patch software - without a proper hardware support it doesn't have much value. Most likely they will have to find another device to replace the 3040 soon.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 18, 2017)

privatebydesign said:


> Jack Douglas said:
> 
> 
> > No way can I get the slave flash mounted on the 1DX2 to fire when the camera shutter is remote activated. Well, that does give a remote RF release function that I didn't have with the 1DX2 at all before. Except maybe I did based on owning two 600's and not realizing there was this linked shooting mode??
> ...



Scott, maybe I need a context of understanding to better appreciate what's going on. I don't come with any flash background but it seems strange to me that the transmitter would fire the camera via the slave on the camera but not also fire that slave in the process. So, I have a flash sitting on top of the camera serving only as a shutter release when it could also be providing lighting??

Jack


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## privatebydesign (Oct 18, 2017)

I think if you look at it from the designers point of view it might help. 

In simple REL mode you are expected to use one camera and several lights so the lighting being triggered is desirable. In Linked Mode the primary purpose is to fire several remote cameras with whatever you have to hand, the idea that you'd want light coming from different angles whilst mounted on camera isn't considered desirable so the lights don't trigger in Linked Mode.

However to use an ST-E3-RT as a stand alone remote trigger you have to put it in Linked Shooting mode, that is the quirk that doesn't make sense to me, but if you use the setup like I do the ST-E3-RT is mounted on the camera and the 600 is used as the handheld trigger whilst I point he light where I want it. This is how I expect the designers anticipated REL mode being used so that is how they enabled it. A single camera with on camera flash isn't an optimal remote shooting setup for the situations they envisioned. 

Of course there are always exceptions, that's why we get MkII's! I can see a remote camera being set up for wildlife with a better beamer type flash on camera then the ST-E3-RT should be able to be used to trigger them both, but I don't think they can be used like that.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 18, 2017)

privatebydesign said:


> I think if you look at it from the designers point of view it might help.
> 
> In simple REL mode you are expected to use one camera and several lights so the lighting being triggered is desirable. In Linked Mode the primary purpose is to fire several remote cameras with whatever you have to hand, the idea that you'd want light coming from different angles whilst mounted on camera isn't considered desirable so the lights don't trigger in Linked Mode.
> 
> ...



What a great explanation that I can understand. It's my lack of experience and training working against me as usual but you and others help immensely!

Jack


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## neuroanatomist (Oct 18, 2017)

privatebydesign said:


> I can see a remote camera being set up for wildlife with a better beamer type flash on camera then the ST-E3-RT should be able to be used to trigger them both, but I don't think they can be used like that.



But my hähnel wireless remote trigger will do that just fine.


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## privatebydesign (Oct 18, 2017)

neuroanatomist said:


> privatebydesign said:
> 
> 
> > I can see a remote camera being set up for wildlife with a better beamer type flash on camera then the ST-E3-RT should be able to be used to trigger them both, but I don't think they can be used like that.
> ...



So will the CamRanger  

So will the RS-80-N3 and the ET-1000N3 I got when we didn't have better options! Before that I had a 30' pneumatic plunger style cable release. Oh how times change..........


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## neuroanatomist (Oct 18, 2017)

privatebydesign said:


> neuroanatomist said:
> 
> 
> > privatebydesign said:
> ...



Yeah, but mine is at the Goldilocks price.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 18, 2017)

As threads often do, this has gone more into full blown remote, which also is of interest to me since my 1DX2 is lacking. Keeping things as simple as possible since I'm overloaded by many projects on my plate besides photography and allowing that the cost does not need to be the absolute minimum (just reasonable) what is the best choice for full control with a smart phone (does video function as well?). My wife said this AM why not just get the Canon dongle but would that be a waste of money? It seems there are differing opinions.

Jack


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## privatebydesign (Oct 19, 2017)

Jack, as always it helps if you start out with a list of what you need from the remote and what you can live without.

If a simple remote trigger is all you need then there are a multitude of them available, I have used Yongnuo ones very successfully and although some of their stuff is pretty bad the triggers I had were rock solid and reliable.

If you want a bit more out of the remote like time-lapse etc then again, there is a broad range and Neuro regularly recommends his hähnel wireless remote trigger which as he says is priced just right if that is the functionality you want.

I specifically need the ability to see the image I just took on the iPad, so for me there are three options that I know of, the work around mentioned before, the CamRanger, and the Canon WFT-E8A. I used to use the WFT's on my 1DS MkIII's but found them unreliable and glitchy, they were also a nightmare to set up with many pages of unintelligible tech speak to navigate to get a connection. The newer WFT's are a bit better and the apps give better options, but it is Canon software and there is a reason they sell cameras and not software! However the WFT does integrate with the camera very nicely and offers weather sealing at an exorbitant price........

The CamRanger and the work around both offer more camera control than the Canon software. I have used pretty much every flavor of remote and have settled on the CamRanger but that is because I have three overwhelming criteria I need filled. I need to view remotely, I need extended bracket sequences, and it needs to just work. If I didn't want the extended control functionality I'd get a WFT.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 19, 2017)

Scott, my only experience in this realm was with my previous 6D. I had it working reasonably well, viewing and focusing for example, on the moon, using my computer and having the camera outside on a cold night on the deck. 

Somewhere along the line things messed up with the remote shooting software and I gave up on it. Before that, since I have my barn attic observatory set up for photographing birds in the trees that are close by, I was keen on doing some of that from my house computer but the distance is probably about 100 - 120 feet and the 6D was very slow/flaky just short of that distance. If I can't get a range exceeding 100' then it's not too useful to me.

I built a treepod to clamp the camera to a tree up high say to shoot a nest and the physical contraption turned out fairly well and could be used if I had remote shooting capability but every year I doddle I get another year older and climbing trees gets less feasible. 

This shot was done in that manner but I was on a ladder reaching up to the camera. A remote would have been much easier and safer and less of a concern for the parent although I wasn't super close with 800mm. 

Jack


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## privatebydesign (Oct 19, 2017)

Best cheapest option while you work out what you want and how much you will use it is a 150' (Edit: foot not inch!) Ethernet cable. Plug it in to your camera ethernet port and into your network and you can control it from your computer. Its doesn't even have to be connected directly to your computer just a port anywhere on your network. If you have a wireless device also connected to that network you can use that to control the camera and view the images as well.

Indeed I have done that with the 1DX MkII and the software you use is the same as the software for the WFT but without all the techno mumbo jumbo. A couple of simple auto selects and your camera is available to any device on your network.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 19, 2017)

Good idea Scott. Thanks

Jack


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