# Are you experiencing this phenomenon with IBIS on your Canon EOS R5?



## Canon Rumors Guy (Apr 26, 2021)

> When it comes to bugs with cameras and lenses, I tend to err on the side of caution posting about them. Most that are sent to me tend to be a user or environmental issue. This one, however, I can make happen on my own Canon EOS R5.
> I’m not sure that this has had any real-world negative effect on my shooting, but we all shoot differently, and it could be a bigger deal for others.
> Canon Rumors reader juanmaasecas sent me the above example of the issue with this explanation.
> 
> ...



Continue reading...


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## m4ndr4ke (Apr 26, 2021)

His description is misleading, he states that the sensor twists after the first picture, but he's complaining that the first picture is blurry, so his camera sensor is twisting during the exposure, not after.

With that being said, I've never noticed that issue on my R6. I've seen the EVF twisting *after* the exposure, but I suppose that is "expected behaviour".


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 26, 2021)

You can see the twist after the liveview feedback is back after taking the picture. The twist seems to happen at the end of the exposure, and still ongoing when the screen is back on.


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## JoeDavid (Apr 26, 2021)

I sent my R5 in last year with images supporting that the IBIS sometimes does the “wobble” when taking still images; i.e., the center of the image is sharp but gets progressively blurry as you move toward the edges. Canon USA’s repair facility sent it back to me saying that the IBIS was within “acceptable tolerances”. It has made me less of an R5 enthusiast...

P.S. it does seem to be better with the later firmware updates.


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## MadisonMike (Apr 26, 2021)

JoeDavid said:


> I sent my R5 in last year with images supporting that the IBIS sometimes does the “wobble” when taking still images; i.e., the center of the image is sharp but gets progressively blurry as you move toward the edges. Canon USA’s repair facility sent it back to me saying that the IBIS was within “acceptable tolerances”. It has made me less of an R5 enthusiast...
> 
> P.S. it does seem to be better with the later firmware updates.


How often does this phenomenon happen? This would definitely bother me.


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## dilbert (Apr 26, 2021)

What's the point of having IBIS if it is going to wreck pictures instead of make them better?


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## Viggo (Apr 26, 2021)

Can definitely recreate this on mine also. First shot after waking up or turning on is blurry, easiest to see in the corners. Easily repeatable, but only 70-80% of the times, so do check a few on/offs.


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## tron (Apr 26, 2021)

It is annoying that we cannot turn IBIS OFF while keeping IS to ON. This is a small firmware change.

But I love the combination of RF24-70 with IBIS. It is good with other lenses too but RF24-70 (at 70) was spectacular.

I managed to shoot close distance at 1/3rd of a second at 70mm with no camera shake at all.

However, to achieve this I always shoot continuously and choose the best. Even so in my 24-70 case there were many keepers.


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## Robert Marxreiter (Apr 26, 2021)

I could imagine what he's experiencing may not be IBIS' fault but the simple fact that the Pressing of the shutter button itself introduces camera shake which of course is mostly gone by te time the second picture is taken. At least that has been my experience with the R5. Can anyone check whether they can reproduce this on a tripod with a wireless remote release?


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 26, 2021)

Robert Marxreiter said:


> I could imagine what he's experiencing may not be IBIS' fault but the simple fact that the Pressing of the shutter button itself introduces camera shake which of course is mostly gone by te time the second picture is taken. At least that has been my experience with the R5. Can anyone check whether they can reproduce this on a tripod with a wireless remote release?


Why is it mostly gone in the second picture!? I am focusing in servo for seconds before the first picture is taken, and press the button extremely carefully every time. 
I have been shooting Sony for years without this issues, I know how to handle shooting at slow shutter speeds, how to hold my breath, etc.
And both pictures are taken separately, it means, it’s not a burst of pictures, but holding half, fully press, go back to holding half, fully press, etc (I can do it several times and ONLY the first one is shaken and ONLY when ibis is set to always on).


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## Robert Marxreiter (Apr 26, 2021)

Ah I misunderstood. I thought it was every first shot of a continuous sequence. So did you reproduce it on a tripod with a wireless remote release?


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## Blackx (Apr 26, 2021)

Definitely happening from the day 1, I just wasn't aware that it is fixed on the second photo in a row.

I wrote about this issue in my review and tested it it on about 6 lenses... the efficiency of the IBIS was about 2 EV when considering the edges. (But +1 or +2 EV higher if evaluating the center sharpness only.)

The details are here, in 1/3 of the page (near the image with blurred edge detail  )
https://www.pastel.cz/en/2020/10/canon-eos-r5-vs-canon-5d-mark-iv-for-photography-part-1/


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 26, 2021)

Robert Marxreiter said:


> Ah I misunderstood. I thought it was every first shot of a continuous sequence. So did you reproduce it on a tripod with a wireless remote release?


On a tripod, after a few seconds, the problem does not happen anymore, 
It’s like the camera knows it’s on a tripod and maybe automatically disables ibis.
And the problem “I think” it’s due to the camera trying to compensate a twists that’s it expect when the button is pressed. But as there is not twist if you press carefully, the camera is overcompensating thus the issue I see... this is only my theory, that this is just a software bug, but there are some people that can’t reproduce the issue, so I don’t really know what’s going on...


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## JoeDavid (Apr 26, 2021)

MadisonMike said:


> How often does this phenomenon happen? This would definitely bother me.


Originally it was probably 1 out of 10 of shots that should be sharp. What I mean by that is that you wouldn’t notice it in a lot of shots due to DOF. After the last couple of firmware updates it has gone down significantly but it does occasionally still happen. I give Canon a little bit of a break since it could be related to the combination of mode, focus type selected, and other camera settings I use. It doesn’t mean it isn’t a problem but it seems to be getting fixed over time by the tweaks they are doing to the IBIS. 

I’m also in favor of being able to disable IBIS when using a lens with IS.


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## Jonathan Thill (Apr 26, 2021)

juanmaasecas said:


> Why is it mostly gone in the second picture!? I am focusing in servo for seconds before the first picture is taken, and press the button extremely carefully every time.
> I have been shooting Sony for years without this issues, I know how to handle shooting at slow shutter speeds, how to hold my breath, etc.
> And both pictures are taken separately, it means, it’s not a burst of pictures, but holding half, fully press, go back to holding half, fully press, etc (I can do it several times and ONLY the first one is shaken and ONLY when ibis is set to always on).


Does it occur regardless of shutter mode? 1st curtain, Mech, and Silent give the same results?


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 26, 2021)

Ramage said:


> Does it occur regardless of shutter mode? 1st curtain, Mech, and Silent give the same results?


It happens in electronic and EFCS, I haven’t tried fully mechanical for obvious reasons.


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## Viggo (Apr 26, 2021)

juanmaasecas said:


> It happens in electronic and EFCS, I haven’t tried fully mechanical for obvious reasons.


I shoot mostly with mechanical shutter, and it’s no better.


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 26, 2021)

Viggo said:


> I shoot mostly with mechanical shutter, and it’s no better.


You shouldn’t use mechanical at slow shutter speeds.


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## Surab (Apr 26, 2021)

juanmaasecas said:


> You shouldn’t use mechanical at slow shutter speeds.


Dumb question. but why?


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 26, 2021)

Surab said:


> Dumb question. but why?


Because mechanical shutter (meaning fully mechanical) may cause shutter shock, visible at slow shutter speeds (the first mechanical curtain creates a shake that introduces the blur). It is better to use EFCS (electronic first curtain shutter) or fully electronic. 
Now that I’m thinking, maybe that is the software bug? Maybe ibis is somehow programmed to counteract the shake of the mechanical shutter no matter what kind of shutter is selected, and when the camera is set in other than fully mechanical, we see this overcompensation (but only in the first picture...)


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## Jonathan Thill (Apr 26, 2021)

juanmaasecas said:


> On a tripod, after a few seconds, the problem does not happen anymore,
> It’s like the camera knows it’s on a tripod and maybe automatically disables ibis.
> And the problem “I think” it’s due to the camera trying to compensate a twists that’s it expect when the button is pressed. But as there is not twist if you press carefully, the camera is overcompensating thus the issue I see... this is only my theory, that this is just a software bug, but there are some people that can’t reproduce the issue, so I don’t really know what’s going on...


I think you are right that the Camera is overcompensating. The system is making a calculated guess on the amount of IBIS compensation to apply on the first shot as it might not have the total gyro data yet. 

This might be a bit of a stretch but I think of it like the blackout we see on the first shot in highspeed shutter. The Camera has no *last frame* to insert so we see a black screen after the first image. In the case of IBIS, the system might be always on but not fully awake and active to the users movements even if slight. If this is the case Canon could and should have the camera have the slightest delay on the first shot to allow the IBIS system to be fully active. 

I am not 100% sure I have seen this on my R5 or R6 but I might have on the first outing back in July 2020 with the R5 - I took a handheld single shot of a gate that I was sure should be sharp but it was a hot mess when I reviewed the shot later. I use a tripod 95% of the time unless shooting wildlife and when shooting wildlife I expect the occasional blurry image.


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## Viggo (Apr 26, 2021)

Surab said:


> Dumb question. but why?


I use mechanical because the EFCS is much worse to forget to turn off than the other way around. And correct me if I'm wrong, but EFSC is only 12 or 13 bit, not 14.


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## Jonathan Thill (Apr 26, 2021)

Viggo said:


> I use mechanical because the EFCS is much worse to forget to turn off than the other way around. And correct me if I'm wrong, but EFSC is only 12 or 13 bit, not 14.


Correct EFSC lowers the bit rate and can mess with the Bokeh but I find it not that noticeable(not sure I have ever noticed it). If I am on the tripod (95% of the time) I use fully mechanical with IBIS off and Manual focus (why did I buy a camera with amazing auto focus??? oh yeah wildlife)

@Viggo Not sure I would classify it as "much worse" but I get your point and cannot speak to your experience with the shutter modes


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## Viggo (Apr 26, 2021)

Ramage said:


> Correct EFSC lowers the bit rate and can mess with the Bokeh but I find it not that noticeable(not sure I have ever noticed it). If I am on the tripod (95% of the time) I use fully mechanical with IBIS off and Manual focus (why did I buy a camera with amazing auto focus??? oh yeah wildlife)
> 
> @Viggo Not sure I would classify it as "much worse" but I get your point and cannot speak to your experience with the shutter modes


I’ve done quite a few comparisons with EFCS and mechanical with fast lenses and fast speeds and it makes my RF85L look pretty gritty and busy with more dof when using EFCS, so I never use it. Had a few rounds of tests now and I for one can’t see a difference in sharpness between the two modes, unless I’m at 3-400%.


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 26, 2021)

Viggo said:


> I use mechanical because the EFCS is much worse to forget to turn off than the other way around. And correct me if I'm wrong, but EFSC is only 12 or 13 bit, not 14.


Fully electronic is 12 bits and the lower dynamic range is pretty visible at low iso.
But I think EFCS is 14 bits just like mechanical. 
you need to take care about the bokeh issues over 1/1000s with efcs, that’s right.


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## Viggo (Apr 26, 2021)

juanmaasecas said:


> Fully electronic is 12 bits and the lower dynamic range is pretty visible at low iso.
> But I think EFCS is 14 bits just like mechanical.
> you need to take care about the bokeh issues over 1/1000s with efcs, that’s right.


Mecahnical is only 14 bit up to 8 fps.


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 26, 2021)

Viggo said:


> I’ve done quite a few comparisons with EFCS and mechanical with fast lenses and fast speeds and it makes my RF85L look pretty gritty and busy with more dof when using EFCS, so I never use it. Had a few rounds of tests now and I for one can’t see a difference in sharpness between the two modes, unless I’m at 3-400%.


EFCS is 14 bits just like mechanical except in H+

from Canon:
“JPEG: 2 compression options RAW: RAW, C-RAW 14 bit (14-bit with Mechanical shutter and Electronic 1st Curtain, 13-bit A/D conversion with H+ mode, 12-bit A/D conversion with Electronic shutter,”






Canon EOS R5 Specifications and Features - - Canon Europe


Canon EOS R5 specifications and key features in detail.




www.canon-europe.com


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## MiJax (Apr 26, 2021)

He would need to eliminate the obvious errors in the testing first. I've always chalked this up to the shutter press causing movement. To test that, simply handhold the camera while the timer takes two shots as a control set. If the behavior is the same, maybe there's something to it.


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## t.linn (Apr 26, 2021)

So, if I'm understanding this correctly, it is the very first shot after powering on or waking the camera up that is affected? After that, things work as expected?


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## JordanCS13 (Apr 26, 2021)

I am one of those he's mentioned that has confirmed the behavior on both my R5 and R6. First shot has the twisting...the rest are fine. It resets if I review images on the LCD, change modes or turn the camera off, so after doing those things, the next shot will have the twisting again on the next first shot.

Changing the IS mode to "only for shot" eliminates the problem, so I have done that until Canon can update the firmware to fix this.


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## risto0 (Apr 26, 2021)

does it happen when you take the shot immediately when turning on the camera or exit from reviewing images? If you turn on the camera, wait for, let's say 10 seconds, does it happen then as well?


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## JordanCS13 (Apr 26, 2021)

risto0 said:


> does it happen when you take the shot immediately when turning on the camera or exit from reviewing images? If you turn on the camera, wait for, let's say 10 seconds, does it happen then as well?


Both, and yes.


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## privatebydesign (Apr 26, 2021)

dilbert said:


> What's the point of having IBIS if it is going to wreck pictures instead of make them better?


IBIS is a tool, if you want to screw a screw in don’t pick up a hammer.


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## AlanF (Apr 26, 2021)

privatebydesign said:


> IBIS is a tool, if you want to screw a screw in don’t pick up a hammer.


Canon doesn't provide a screwdriver to turn it off when you have IS in the lens - it's both on or both off.


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## risto0 (Apr 26, 2021)

JordanCS13 said:


> Both, and yes.


I think I should withdraw my 5D4 sale advertisement then (until they fix it). Unacceptable that IBIS would reduce image quality.


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## AJ (Apr 26, 2021)

When it comes at AF, cameras don't expose until they get AF confirmation (unless you override this).
It seems to me that the R5 doesn't do a good job of waiting for IBIS confirmation. The system should not allow exposure until IBIS has settled in, unless the user chooses to override. To me this seems to be a firmware issue.


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## degos (Apr 26, 2021)

privatebydesign said:


> IBIS is a tool, if you want to screw a screw in don’t pick up a hammer.



This is exactly the use-case for IBIS, why do you think it's being used inappropriately?

To extend your bizarre metaphor, every time you use this screwdriver it shears the head off the first screw.


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## Viggo (Apr 26, 2021)

AJ said:


> When it comes at AF, cameras don't expose until they get AF confirmation (unless you override this).
> It seems to me that the R5 doesn't do a good job of waiting for IBIS confirmation. The system should not allow exposure until IBIS has settled in, unless the user chooses to override. To me this seems to be a firmware issue.


This doesn’t happen because one is to quick to release the shutter. I can wait 20 seconds and this still happens.


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## [email protected] (Apr 26, 2021)

I tried 6 RF lenses, and I was able to get two of them to replicate the problem for a time. But then they didn't. I then locked all of them down on a tripod and reshot the tests, and none of them show the problem. 

This may be because:
1) I'm just not good at replicating the problem and am doing it wrong
2) We're all seeing shutter button mashing effect and attributing it to IBIS
3) The tripod is sensed and the problem is going away because the camera is turning off the problem due to it knowing it's on a tripod (although I deliberately rocked the camera the camera from startup to 1 second before testing so that it would minimize the odds of the camera detecting the tripod)

I've been shooting at 1/8th of a second for these latest tests to maximize the visible effect. Trying lenses with lens IS and without. All RF glass.


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## usern4cr (Apr 26, 2021)

Robert Marxreiter said:


> I could imagine what he's experiencing may not be IBIS' fault but the simple fact that the Pressing of the shutter button itself introduces camera shake which of course is mostly gone by te time the second picture is taken. At least that has been my experience with the R5. Can anyone check whether they can reproduce this on a tripod with a wireless remote release?


I second this thought! If you don't test this on a tripod with a remote shutter release then you will always have the shutter press & release issue which will affect the motion of the camera. IMHO, this should have been tested & verified on a tripod with remote release before mentioning it on this site.


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## usern4cr (Apr 26, 2021)

[email protected] said:


> I tried 6 RF lenses, and I was able to get two of them to replicate the problem for a time. But then they didn't. I then locked all of them down on a tripod and reshot the tests, and none of them show the problem.
> 
> This may be because:
> 1) I'm just not good at replicating the problem and am doing it wrong
> ...


If the problem goes away when you're on a tripod, then there's not a problem, period!
This just means that this whole thing is NOT a problem, but rather an issue with the motion of holding a camera and pressing the shutter button in fast enough FPS mode.

By the way, if IS is on then the IBIS stays on whether you're on a tripod or not. I rely on that all the time in case the tripod/camera vibrates due to other factors like wind or ground motion.


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## [email protected] (Apr 26, 2021)

usern4cr said:


> If the problem goes away when you're on a tripod, then there's not a problem, period!
> This just means that this whole thing is NOT a problem, but rather an issue with the motion of holding a camera and pressing the shutter button in fast enough FPS mode.
> 
> By the way, if IS is on then the IBIS stays on whether you're on a tripod or not. I rely on that all the time in case the tripod/camera vibrates due to other factors like wind or ground motion.



If IS on means IBIS is always on, then yes, I can confirm that IBIS was on when I was able to show these lenses shooting 1/8th of a second with no evidence of the "twist."

While tempted to say that this is a teapot tempest, Canon's firmware logic is complex enough that I can't rule out that this is true only with the particular settings I had on my R5.


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## StandardLumen (Apr 26, 2021)

Viggo said:


> Mecahnical is only 14 bit up to 8 fps.


I hadn't heard that before. The R5 is capable of 12 fps in mechanical shutter mode, so if it drops below 14 bit, is that based on the shooting mode, or based on how many frames you've actually captured?


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 26, 2021)

usern4cr said:


> If the problem goes away when you're on a tripod, then there's not a problem, period!
> This just means that this whole thing is NOT a problem, but rather an issue with the motion of holding a camera and pressing the shutter button in fast enough FPS mode.
> 
> By the way, if IS is on then the IBIS stays on whether you're on a tripod or not. I rely on that all the time in case the tripod/camera vibrates due to other factors like wind or ground motion.


It is not a problem of how you hold the camera and press the shutter button. Read my previous comments please.
- only the first picture, not the rest (when you keep half-pressed the shutter
- only when ibis is set to always (if set to only for shot, the first picture is also good)

I think the camera senses when it’s on a tripod and the ibis mode “changes”, that’s why it’s not happening. I did tests on a tripod, if I do it quickly after I set ok the tripod, the problem happens, but a bit after it would stop happening.


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## Jonathan Thill (Apr 27, 2021)

risto0 said:


> I think I should withdraw my 5D4 sale advertisement then (until they fix it). Unacceptable that IBIS would reduce image quality.



Hmm, unacceptable? 

The entire exposure triangle is a compromise that as a photographer you should be aware of. We are forced to work with the limitation of Aperture, ISO, Shutter speed all the time so adding another variable is a meh issue for me. 

While I have not had any issues with IBIS it sounds like this might end up being a known limitation of the IBIS in the R5\R6 that might be fixed in firmware or might not be, but your comment makes it sound like the Camera is incapable of capturing an image and I think we all know that is simply not the case. 

Save us the drama, report the issue to Canon and until it is fixed, compromise a little.


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## rbr (Apr 27, 2021)

I have that problem with my R5 on occasion. I have been mostly been shooting landscapes and macro with it, so shooting consecutive frames each time I release the shutter hasn't been a huge problem, but I could see it being a potential problem in the future for capturing fleeting shots.

There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason that I can tell that triggers it. Yesterday afternoon in my backyard it happened at least 50% of the time. Today I took it out all day using 5 different lenses, some Canon, some Sigma, some with IS, some without and it never occured once.


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## Chris.Chapterten (Apr 27, 2021)

usern4cr said:


> If the problem goes away when you're on a tripod, then there's not a problem, period!
> This just means that this whole thing is NOT a problem, but rather an issue with the motion of holding a camera and pressing the shutter button in fast enough FPS mode.
> 
> By the way, if IS is on then the IBIS stays on whether you're on a tripod or not. I rely on that all the time in case the tripod/camera vibrates due to other factors like wind or ground motion.


The IBIS behaviour changes when the camera is put on a tripod, so drawing a definite conclusion based on that test alone is not really possible.


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## VegasCameraGuy (Apr 27, 2021)

Viggo said:


> Can definitely recreate this on mine also. First shot after waking up or turning on is blurry, easiest to see in the corners. Easily repeatable, but only 70-80% of the times, so do check a few on/offs.


Could you provide a step by step to reproduce the problem?


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## VegasCameraGuy (Apr 27, 2021)

JordanCS13 said:


> I am one of those he's mentioned that has confirmed the behavior on both my R5 and R6. First shot has the twisting...the rest are fine. It resets if I review images on the LCD, change modes or turn the camera off, so after doing those things, the next shot will have the twisting again on the next first shot.
> 
> Changing the IS mode to "only for shot" eliminates the problem, so I have done that until Canon can update the firmware to fix this.


Assume I'm an idiot. Tell me how to reproduce the problem as I've never experienced it? There are a dozen setting that could be changed and it's much simpler if you explain in detail how to replicate the problem.


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 27, 2021)

VegasCameraGuy said:


> Assume I'm an idiot. Tell me how to reproduce the problem as I've never experienced it? There are a dozen setting that could be changed and it's much simpler if you explain in detail how to replicate the problem.


Use a lens without OIs. NO optical stabilisation.
Set IBIS to Always ON
Go to shutter priority mode (for example)
set 1/10s shutter speed
Use af servo (also happens in one shot, but it will be easier for you to discard other issues)
single shot mode (you can try also burst, it also happens, but then people will say that the problem is pressing the button in the first shot...)
Focus at something far to better see details

As you are in servo, focus in the center point (for example) and keep the camera focusing during a couple of seconds
After that, very carefully fully press the shutter button to take the picture and, WITHOUT RELEASING THE SHUTTER, go back to keep focusing in the same spot.
Then, very carefully take another picture, and after back go back to half pressing
Take another picture, etc

You will see how the first picture is blurred 90% of the time (look at the edges and corners, the center is usually sharp of course), and the successive pictures are sharp. You can see how when the live view feedback in the LCD screen is restored, there is a visible twist that does not happen in the rest of the pictures.

edit: Use either EFCS or electronic shutter.


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## VegasCameraGuy (Apr 27, 2021)

VegasCameraGuy said:


> Assume I'm an idiot. Tell me how to reproduce the problem as I've never experienced it? There are a dozen setting that could be changed and it's much simpler if you explain in detail how to replicate the pr
> 
> 
> juanmaasecas said:
> ...


Thanks for the explanation. Don't you think mentioning that the problem only apparently exists with non-RF lenses or those without IS? Does the problem exist with an R5 and an RF lens? I'm taking pictures of my computer screen with my R5 f8, ISO 100, AV mode, at 1/15 or 1/20th and don't see the problem if I take a shot release the button, and take another shot or keeping the shutter half depressed and taking multiple shots.


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 27, 2021)

VegasCameraGuy said:


> Thanks for the explanation. Don't you think mentioning that the problem only apparently exists with non-RF lenses or those without IS? Does the problem exist with an R5 and an RF lens? I'm taking pictures of my computer screen with my R5 f8, ISO 100, AV mode, at 1/15 or 1/20th and don't see the problem if I take a shot release the button, and take another shot or keeping the shutter half depressed and taking multiple shots.


It does happen with RF lenses, at least with the RF 50 1.8 that I tried in the Canon service center. But it seems that it only happens with lenses without optical stabilisation. 

If you take pictures of your computer screen maybe it is not enough to see the issue, try focusing something far with small details.

Also there are a few people that don't seem to have the issue, so maybe not all batches are affected? I don't know...


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## Jonathan Thill (Apr 27, 2021)

Super easy to Repo on the R5 with the RF 50 1.8. Sending a report to CPS Canada right now.




As I have posted before not something that appears to be impacting any of my images but something is off with the first image for sure.

Edit: Will try my R6 and see what it does after I am done dinner.

Edit:2 Confirmed the R6 does the same thing using the RF 50 1.8


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## snappy604 (Apr 27, 2021)

definitely seen it when rapid bursting on R5 Electronic shutter and slight movement... you see the shifting/warping of IBIS but find the images individually are still quite useful. 

had a few chats early on with the R5s about fuzzyiness, including with a tripod.. wondering if its really the same thing. I usually take small bursts now and keep what I need, but yeah from time to time some things aren't fully explainable.


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## SnowMiku (Apr 27, 2021)

It will be fixed in the R3, and they will release the R1 when they are sure all of the IBIS bugs are worked out. I hope the R5/R6 users get a firmware update to fix this.


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## f119a (Apr 27, 2021)

JoeDavid said:


> I sent my R5 in last year with images supporting that the IBIS sometimes does the “wobble” when taking still images; i.e., the center of the image is sharp but gets progressively blurry as you move toward the edges. Canon USA’s repair facility sent it back to me saying that the IBIS was within “acceptable tolerances”. It has made me less of an R5 enthusiast...
> 
> P.S. it does seem to be better with the later firmware updates.


I'd say this happens to all cameras with IBIS. At least I know Nikon Z cameras are prone to this and GFX100 got this problem too.


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 27, 2021)

f119a said:


> I'd say this happens to all cameras with IBIS. At least I know Nikon Z cameras are prone to this and GFX100 got this problem too.


I would understand that randomly the ibis can be more or less effective from shot to shot, but the fact that there is a violent sensor twist only after the first picture is taken (near the end of the exposure actually) and only when ibis is set to always on, indicates that there is a bug in the firmware most probably.


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## HMC11 (Apr 27, 2021)

juanmaasecas said:


> Use a lens without OIs. NO optical stabilisation.
> Set IBIS to Always ON
> Go to shutter priority mode (for example)
> set 1/10s shutter speed
> ...


You mentioned earlier that switching to 'Only for Shot' mode solved the problem. If so, I am curious as to why that is the case. I believe the the 'Only for Shot' mode is only available when using a non-IS lens, otherwise, it is blanked out for Canon's IS lenses. This is what I understand about the IBIS. When set to 'Always On', you can hear the whirring sound in the camera if you put your ear close to it. In the 'Only for shot' mode, you can only hear the whirring sound if the shutter is half pressed. This seems to me that IBIS only kicks in when the shutter is half pressed in the 'only for shot' mode, i.e. it needs some time to be activated before the shot is taken, whereas, it is already on in the 'always on' mode. If this is true, I wonder why activating it later in the 'only for shot' mode would make the twisting problem go away, as the difference in the two modes seems to be a matter of when the IBIS kicks in. Could it be that in the 'always on' mode, the IBIS is essentially 'sleeping', and hence has to figure out the amount of compensation for the first shot, which it doesn't always get right, and hence the 'twisting'? And that in the 'only for shot' mode, the activation of the IBIS when the shutter is half pressed allows the IBIS to 'wake up' sufficiently to calculate the necessary compensation and hence there is no 'twisting'? Wonder what you think.


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## privatebydesign (Apr 27, 2021)

AlanF said:


> Canon doesn't provide a screwdriver to turn it off when you have IS in the lens - it's both on or both off.


And that’s got nothing to do with the phenomenon being reported here, that is, it only happens on lenses with no IS.


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## f119a (Apr 27, 2021)

Quite a few cameras' IBIS systems are prone to overcompensating when working, creating an effect like using tilted/de-centered lenses. I don't think sony cameras are doing this but they got their own problems. I just tested on my R5 and it seems ok. Don't forget your second press could induce vibration as well.
I tested several times on my R5 too and it seems ok.
Is it a bug? Maybe. 
Is it still saving more pics than having no IBIS? Definitely yes based on my experience, especially on higher MP cameras like GFX100.


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## Jonathan Thill (Apr 27, 2021)

Summary of the issue as I see it.

Occurs when using lenses without IS
Only the first shot is affected.(Powering off or image review appears to reset the first shot so it will occur again. )
Does not appear to be an issue when using a tripod.
Does not appear to be an issue when using lenses with IS.
Does not appear to be an issue if you set IBIS to be on only when taking a shot.
I have reported the repo steps to CPS Canada. Nice find @juanmaasecas.

If you are using a lens without IS be sure to check those shots for critical focus and be sure to report the issue to Canon. I do not use my RF50 much so not something I am to worried about but the fact that the issue likely affects the 28-70 and the fast primes Canon needs to address this.


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 27, 2021)

HMC11 said:


> You mentioned earlier that switching to 'Only for Shot' mode solved the problem. If so, I am curious as to why that is the case. I believe the the 'Only for Shot' mode is only available when using a non-IS lens, otherwise, it is blanked out for Canon's IS lenses. This is what I understand about the IBIS. When set to 'Always On', you can hear the whirring sound in the camera if you put your ear close to it. In the 'Only for shot' mode, you can only hear the whirring sound if the shutter is half pressed. This seems to me that IBIS only kicks in when the shutter is half pressed in the 'only for shot' mode, i.e. it needs some time to be activated before the shot is taken, whereas, it is already on in the 'always on' mode. If this is true, I wonder why activating it later in the 'only for shot' mode would make the twisting problem go away, as the difference in the two modes seems to be a matter of when the IBIS kicks in. Could it be that in the 'always on' mode, the IBIS is essentially 'sleeping', and hence has to figure out the amount of compensation for the first shot, which it doesn't always get right, and hence the 'twisting'? And that in the 'only for shot' mode, the activation of the IBIS when the shutter is half pressed allows the IBIS to 'wake up' sufficiently to calculate the necessary compensation and hence there is no 'twisting'? Wonder what you think.


At least in my camera, when ibis is set to only for shot, it is enabled only for shot, it is still disabled during focusing (half pressed button).

with Sony it works like that and it’s how it should work with Canon as well, engaging ibis only during af and shooting. With Canon you need to chose between having it on all the time (draining battery) or only when the picture is taken (not having a stable image during af).


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## f119a (Apr 27, 2021)

juanmaasecas said:


> You can see the twist after the liveview feedback is back after taking the picture. The twist seems to happen at the end of the exposure, and still ongoing when the screen is back on.


Quite a few cameras' IBIS systems are prone to overcompensating when working, creating an effect like using tilted/de-centered lenses. I don't think sony cameras are doing this but they got their own problems. I just tested on my R5 and it seems ok at the moment, but I know it did similar things before (and I don't think that's a real problem). Don't forget your second press could induce vibration as well.

Is it a bug? Maybe.
Is it still saving more pics than having no IBIS? Definitely yes based on my experience, especially on higher MP cameras like GFX100.


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 27, 2021)

Ramage said:


> Summary of the issue as I see it.
> 
> Occurs when using lenses without IS
> Only the first shot is affected.(Powering off or image review appears to reset the first shot so it will occur again. )
> ...


You don’t need to even turn the camera off nor review images. It will happen again as soon as you release the shutter button and try to take a picture again. The problem is the first picture in a series without fully releasing your finger from the shutter button (for example a burst, or many pictures taken consecutively while keeping half pressed the shutter button).

it’s not happening absolutely 100% of the time, but most of the time.

if you try to shoot a burst (remember, slow shutter speeds, try for example 1/6-1/15s) you will see how the twist in the sensor that happens at the end of the first exposure is also affecting a bit the second picture, then the third one is perfect.
I am convinced there is some bad code in the ibis software…


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## Jonathan Thill (Apr 27, 2021)

juanmaasecas said:


> You don’t need to even turn the camera off nor review images. It will happen again as soon as you release the shutter button and try to take a picture again. The problem is the first picture in a series without fully releasing your finger from the shutter button (for example a burst, or many pictures taken consecutively while keeping half pressed the shutter button).
> 
> it’s not happening absolutely 100% of the time, but most of the time.
> 
> ...


I agree with you on the bad code.

If I had to guess I think there is a call being made to the lens IS system that does not get a response because there is no IS system. Those lines of code are then skipped on the second call and the system reacts like it should when relying on IBIS alone. In simple terms there is a missing if statement.

I see this all the time in or FPGA's on our Cameras.(work for Avigilon) The code is reused on multiple platforms but not all features are present in each Camera so we have to be sure to flash the correct firmware or the thing will get hung up trying to activate an IR array that does not exist.


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## eraackk (Apr 27, 2021)

Haven't bought R5/R6 yet, could anybody tell me whether we can switch of the IBIS individually?


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## Viggo (Apr 27, 2021)

StandardLumen said:


> I hadn't heard that before. The R5 is capable of 12 fps in mechanical shutter mode, so if it drops below 14 bit, is that based on the shooting mode, or based on how many frames you've actually captured?


Depending on shooting mode. Everything between 8-12 fps is 13 bit.


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## edoorn (Apr 27, 2021)

Ramage said:


> Summary of the issue as I see it.
> 
> Occurs when using lenses without IS
> Only the first shot is affected.(Powering off or image review appears to reset the first shot so it will occur again. )
> ...


Yep, can confirm both my R5 bodies show the issues under the conditions you mention. Will report to my local CPS department.


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## rbr (Apr 27, 2021)

I have had the problem odccur when the camera is set


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## rbr (Apr 27, 2021)

Ramage said:


> Summary of the issue as I see it.
> 
> Occurs when using lenses without IS
> Only the first shot is affected.(Powering off or image review appears to reset the first shot so it will occur again. )
> ...


I have seen the problem occur when the IBIS is set to "only for shot". I don't think that makes a difference. I do think the shutter speed matters. I don't see it at shutter speeds faster than 1/100 sec. or so.


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## U-Type (Apr 27, 2021)

Yes, definitely noticed the twist on my R5, with IS always on, for non IS lenses, since day 1 on 1.1 firmware even up to current 1.3.1 firmware. 

I've noticed another annoying issue as well: when IS on but for "shot only", it often blurs my first image when it shouldn't.

Also noticed, as another person has mentioned, that the corners of my pics get progressively blurrier away from the center in some shots. I think I've noticed it happen with and without IS on. I use the same lenses on my 5D3 and it doesn't have the same issue. (Not a resolution issue because R5 shots can look significantly blurrier even when resized to match 5D3 resolution.


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## Toglife_Anthony (Apr 27, 2021)

juanmaasecas said:


> Use a lens without OIs. NO optical stabilisation.
> Set IBIS to Always ON
> Go to shutter priority mode (for example)
> set 1/10s shutter speed
> ...


Following these instructions I was able to reproduce the problem. Side note, I used mechanical shutter as I forgot to switch it, and I still had the issue.


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 27, 2021)

Toglife_Anthony said:


> Following these instructions I was able to reproduce the problem. Side note, I used mechanical shutter as I forgot to switch it, and I still had the issue.


It also happens in mechanical indeed, but I was trying to narrow the chances of people saying it is user error (shutter shock in this case).


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## MikeDVB (Apr 27, 2021)

My R5 just delivered the other day. I'll test this out when I get home and will see if mine is doing it. IIRC it was on 1.3.0 out of the box and I updated it to 1.3.1.


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## MikeDVB (Apr 27, 2021)

I did some testing with the RF 50mm f/1.2 at 1/10th of a second with IBIS "Always On".


Honestly I couldn't tell any difference in the corners between the first shot or the second or the last. They all look good to me. I changed it to "shot only" and the images look darn near identical to me.


I did do some testing on and off of the tripod. I tested using the shutter button itself as well as a bluetooth shutter.


One thing I did manage to do once on the tripod was after every shot I could visibly see the image on the display twisting clockwise. It wasn't just the first shot - but every one. I tried to record it with my phone but it's subtle enough that you see it if you're looking for it but it's hard to record and demonstrate.

I couldn't see anything wrong in the corners of the images when zoomed in as far as I could go. I was shooting at f/9 for most of my testing.

I went into the settings and changed from 1st Curtain Electronic shutter to full electronic and the issue disappeared. I changed it back to 1st Curtain Electronic and the issue did not recur.


I do think that there may be some tripod detection logic going on but I have no way of proving it. I turned the camera off and turned it back on and could not immediately reproduce the issue.


Either way - I wasn't able to find anything that I couldn't blame on user error [like me hand-holding the camera] and I did follow the directions I found here as well as a couple of other places.

My testing is by no means exhaustive but if I tried this hard to do it on purpose and couldn't I have to wonder how much if at all it'll affect me in the real world. It's something I'll try to keep an eye out for.

As a programmer this sounds like bad logic to me. It sounds like either a wrong branch is being taken or perhaps a situation was overlooked.


Overall thankfully I'm still really happy with my camera and on the upside most of the newer lenses seem to come with IS built in and the IBIS seems to be working great with Lens IS.


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## jeanluc (Apr 28, 2021)

Dumb question....How do you set the IBIS to always on or only on for shot in the R5? Can't seem to see this in menu.....


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 28, 2021)

jeanluc said:


> Dumb question....How do you set the IBIS to always on or only on for shot in the R5? Can't seem to see this in menu.....


It’s only available with lenses with no optical image stabilisation.


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 28, 2021)

MikeDVB said:


> I did some testing with the RF 50mm f/1.2 at 1/10th of a second with IBIS "Always On".
> 
> 
> Honestly I couldn't tell any difference in the corners between the first shot or the second or the last. They all look good to me. I changed it to "shot only" and the images look darn near identical to me.
> ...


It has indeed some tripod detection logic that some times is still on a few seconds after it is off the tripod and a starts a few seconds after being on the tripod. So i would try to do it again with a freshly started camera no using tripod at all. 
you are the 4th person I read that carefully try to reproduce the issue and it’s not there, but I really hope it’s not a matter of bad batches but “user error” in the positive way. Just because I really hope it’s just software…


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## VegasCameraGuy (Apr 28, 2021)

I've tried with my RF 85mm f1.2L non-stabilized and my RF 24-70mm f2.8L and cannot replicate the problem on my R5.


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## MikeDVB (Apr 28, 2021)

juanmaasecas said:


> It has indeed some tripod detection logic that some times is still on a few seconds after it is off the tripod and a starts a few seconds after being on the tripod. So i would try to do it again with a freshly started camera no using tripod at all.
> you are the 4th person I read that carefully try to reproduce the issue and it’s not there, but I really hope it’s not a matter of bad batches but “user error” in the positive way. Just because I really hope it’s just software…


I did try without the tripod - as well as doing it immediately after turning the camera / moving the tripod around before setting it down and immediately taking pictures.

The issue is that I am not so steady and it was darkish in the room I was testing in so hand-holding at 1/10th wasn't really consistent for me even with IS working 'normal'. Even with clear pictures - there was no way I couldn't be sure any twist / movement of the camera wasn't me moving.

I'll need to mess around with it some more when I have more light to work with. I was stopped down so I could make sure the edges would be reasonably sharp making it easier for me to detect issues.

I do also have an EF 24-70mm f2.8L - I can test with that one too. I also have several EF lenses. Would you think it better to test wide open or zoomed in? I can certainly do both but would like to focus on the most likely opportunity to catch issues.


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 28, 2021)

MikeDVB said:


> I did try without the tripod - as well as doing it immediately after turning the camera / moving the tripod around before setting it down and immediately taking pictures.
> 
> The issue is that I am not so steady and it was darkish in the room I was testing in so hand-holding at 1/10th wasn't really consistent for me even with IS working 'normal'. Even with clear pictures - there was no way I couldn't be sure any twist / movement of the camera wasn't me moving.
> 
> ...


Try focusing directly near the corner at something far with small details, you can hold your elbows on a surface or something…


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## MikeDVB (Apr 28, 2021)

juanmaasecas said:


> Try focusing directly near the corner at something far with small details, you can hold your elbows on a surface or something…


Yeah tomorrow sometime if I have the time I'm going to mess with it a little bit more.


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## highdesertmesa (Apr 28, 2021)

Sounds more like a glitch with the mechanical shutter. It could have a physical issue that causes it to hop or jump on the first shot. OR — When the camera is off or idle for a time, it might have some sort of park mode that requires the camera to reset the the shutter to the ready position. So it could be IBIS cannot cope with the extra shock of the mechanical shutter getting itself into position.


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## Jonathan Thill (Apr 28, 2021)

highdesertmesa said:


> Sounds more like a glitch with the mechanical shutter. It could have a physical issue that causes it to hop or jump on the first shot. OR — When the camera is off or idle for a time, it might have some sort of park mode that requires the camera to reset the the shutter to the ready position. So it could be IBIS cannot cope with the extra shock of the mechanical shutter getting itself into position.


Happens with silent shutter.


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## Viggo (Apr 28, 2021)

I still happens on mine even if I’m not directly from wake up or start up, going through menus and reviewing shots and back to shooting it’s still there…


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## Rzrsharp (Apr 28, 2021)

Did not read through all the previous posts, I had done a rapid test.
I *can not* repeat this "twist" (I don't understanad either, what is a "twist"?)
Camera: R5 (purchased Nov, 2020), Lens: RF28-70, Shutter: EFCS

But I have another problem to report here: the focus is "drifting" when shot at H+, meanwhile some of the photos lose the focus even focused on a still subject.

This focus drifting @H+ is not always embarrassing, it can be used to generate focus stacking (Canon's focus bracketingg) photo.


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## Del Paso (Apr 28, 2021)

I guess for the time being I'll just keep my totally reliable EOS 5D IV and EOS R.
Both never had any bugs as far as I've noticed.
My next camera will be the R 3, for its bigger size, after a little waiting (bug fixing) time...


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## Jabbermack (Apr 28, 2021)

Why has my post been deleted!!?


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## entoman (Apr 28, 2021)

I've got another IBIS-related bug with my R5. On "rare occasions" , i.e. once in every 200 or so shots, the camera starts making a regular, repetitive tapping or knocking noise. This appears to be caused by the IBIS causing the sensor to move to to its extreme position, and then reset to the base position multiple times. This "knocking", which can be felt through the body, continues non-stop and can only be stopped by switching the camera off and on again.

So far, this has only happened when using my EF 180mm F3.5L macro. All my lenses are EF, so I don't know whether this "phenomenon" also occurs when using RF lenses.


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## YuengLinger (Apr 28, 2021)

juanmaasecas said:


> Try focusing directly near the corner at something far with small details, you can hold your elbows on a surface or something…


I'm able to reproduce this phenomenon on the R5 and R6 using the Rf 50mm 1.2L.

Thank you for identifying the pattern and reporting it here! 

Although I suspected an IBIS related problem--but never pinned it down to only the first shot or non IS lenses--I discounted it after a series of tests ON A TRIPOD. But I kept getting unexpected motion blur from time to time. Despite my habit of almost always taking bursts of at least three shots (and apparently working around this issue unwittingly), this would have kept bugging me and prompting head scratching for who knows how long. I am sincerely grateful to you!

I wouldn't be surprised, when this is fixed, to learn that *Ramage* is on the right track with his hypothesis: _ "If I had to guess I think there is a call being made to the lens IS system that does not get a response because there is no IS system. Those lines of code are then skipped on the second call and the system reacts like it should when relying on IBIS alone. In simple terms there is a missing if statement."_

I will definitely let CPS know yet another customer is experiencing this issue.


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## juanmaasecas (Apr 28, 2021)

YuengLinger said:


> I'm able to reproduce this phenomenon on the R5 and R6 using the Rf 50mm 1.2L.
> 
> Thank you for identifying the pattern and reporting it here!
> 
> ...


It seems Canon is aware of the issue and it will be fixed 









A firmware update to address the IBIS issue is coming, no date yet [CR3] #EOSR5 #EOSR6


There have now been multiple reports about the IBIS shift/tilt on the Canon EOS R5 and Canon EOS R6, so I think it's safe to say it's more than a "phenomenon



www.canonrumors.com






Thank you canonrumors for giving me voice!


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## miketcool (Apr 28, 2021)

juanmaasecas said:


> …Maybe ibis is somehow programmed to counteract the shake of the mechanical shutter no matter what kind of shutter is selected, and when the camera is set in other than fully mechanical, we see this overcompensation…



This is likely the reason for the initial over-compensation. The first shots from waking or turning on exhibit the peripheral blur in my images. When shooting digital in a studio, I expect to burn the first few shots anyways while dialing in settings. This issue needs to be addressed for those who shoot action and photo-journalism, when the expectation to have an always ready camera is marred with a mechanical flaw.


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## Karl Guttag (Apr 28, 2021)

m4ndr4ke said:


> His description is misleading, he states that the sensor twists after the first picture, but he's complaining that the first picture is blurry, so his camera sensor is twisting during the exposure, not after.
> 
> With that being said, I've never noticed that issue on my R6. I've seen the EVF twisting *after* the exposure, but I suppose that is "expected behaviour".


He didn't do the best job of describing the problem, but the problem he found has been verified by many people, while some claim they can't duplicate the problem. 

It occurs on *the first shot after focusing*. Using electronic High-Speed Shutter in the fastest (+) mode, I was able to see the amount of rotation decrease between the 1st and 2nd shot and then become stable. This suggests the twist is occurring at the beginning of the shooting. 
You have to be using a non-IS lens that lets you set the IBIS to "Always" vs "Only on Shot." In "Always on Shot" mode is where the problem occurs. If you switch to "Only on Shot" it goes away. The problem is most evident at about 1/10th of a second. It does not occur on a tripod in either IBIS mode.


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## Kit Chan (Apr 29, 2021)

And still no EFCS patch for the M6 mk2 with IS lenses


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## JohnC (May 1, 2021)

I’ve seen this shooting on a tripod. Here I was thinking I had forgotten how to focus correctly or something. My suspicion would be that it has something to do with the way the ibis starts up...starts with wobble and settles down.


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## David_E (May 3, 2021)

Canon Rumors Guy said:


> Continue reading...


I have tried to reproduce this fault with my R5, but I am unable to do so. If I understand the (sometimes garbled) problem, the first photo after power-on or wake-up might be blurred. I tried an RF 24-240, an RF 35mm macro, and an EF 24-105 lens, and in no case did I experience a blurred first shot. Here is just one example, my garden shed, first shot after turning the camera on. RF 24-240mm @90mm ƒ9. Electronic shutter. This is the full frame, but CR would not accept the full-resolution photo (8192 x 5464) so I reduced it to 5000 x 3335. Conditions: heavy overcast. No user processing.


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## Bdbtoys (May 3, 2021)

David_E said:


> I have tried to reproduce this fault with my R5, but I am unable to do so. If I understand the (sometimes garbled) problem, the first photo after power-on or wake-up might be blurred. I tried an RF 24-240, an RF 35mm macro, and an EF 25-105 lens, and in no case did I experience a blurred first shot. Here is just one example, my garden shed, first shot after turning the camera on. RF 24-240mm @90mm ƒ9. Electronic shutter. This is the full frame, but CR would not accept the full-resolution photo (8192 x 5464) so I reduced it to 5000 x 3335. Conditions: heavy overcast. No user processing.


The issue appears on Non-IS Lenses. All the lenses you listed are IS, so it would make sense you are not seeing it.


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## Jostian (Jun 20, 2021)

I can see a definite difference between shots at slower shutter speeds, when I compared sharpness between shots at 1/125th of a second or shower at 24mm vs shots at 1/250th there is a definite difference, with the faster shots being noticeably sharper, so there is a definite issue. Doesn't matter if lens stabilisation is off or on, results are the same.


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## Jostian (Jun 20, 2021)

David_E said:


> I have tried to reproduce this fault with my R5, but I am unable to do so. If I understand the (sometimes garbled) problem, the first photo after power-on or wake-up might be blurred. I tried an RF 24-240, an RF 35mm macro, and an EF 24-105 lens, and in no case did I experience a blurred first shot. Here is just one example, my garden shed, first shot after turning the camera on. RF 24-240mm @90mm ƒ9. Electronic shutter. This is the full frame, but CR would not accept the full-resolution photo (8192 x 5464) so I reduced it to 5000 x 3335. Conditions: heavy overcast. No user processing.


Compare slower (1/125th) shutter speed IQ to 1/250 or faster shutter speed IQ.


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## AlanF (Jun 20, 2021)

Jostian said:


> Compare slower (1/125th) shutter speed IQ to 1/250 or faster shutter speed IQ.


I have always got with telephoto lenses sharper images at shutter speeds higher than /125s on every Canon body I have ever used. I prefer to be above 1/1000s as I crop images.


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## Jostian (Jun 20, 2021)

I really think at 24mm 1/125 should be enough, especially with IS & IBIS, hence my assertion that there is an issue, I took 15 odd shots at 24 and 35mm at 1/125 to 1/160 and everyone is blurry. At 24mm one should be able to get sharp photos at 1/30, but as soon as you you get upwards of 1/200 the photos are sharp. So definitely something wrong.


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## Jostian (Jun 20, 2021)

And if I put the EF 16 to 35mm L on my R5 with the adapter I get the same results, BUT if I disable IS on the lens the resultant shots are sharp, enable IS and shots go back to blurry at slower (1/125 or 1/160) speeds.


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## koenkooi (Jun 20, 2021)

Jostian said:


> I really think at 24mm 1/125 should be enough, especially with IS & IBIS, hence my assertion that there is an issue, I took 15 odd shots at 24 and 35mm at 1/125 to 1/160 and everyone is blurry. At 24mm one should be able to get sharp photos at 1/30, but as soon as you you get upwards of 1/200 the photos are sharp. So definitely something wrong.


Be sure to try lower speeds as well, the 1/100s - 1/200s range is where virtuall all Canon IS systems fall down. Go slower and it's sharp, go faster and it's sharp as well.

Since I don't have any fast (brighter than f/1.8) lenses, I use either EFCS or ES which don't suffer from this phenomenon, only fully mechanical seems to.


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## Jostian (Jun 21, 2021)

koenkooi said:


> Be sure to try lower speeds as well, the 1/100s - 1/200s range is where virtuall all Canon IS systems fall down. Go slower and it's sharp, go faster and it's sharp as well.
> 
> Since I don't have any fast (brighter than f/1.8) lenses, I use either EFCS or ES which don't suffer from this phenomenon, only fully mechanical seems to.


Yip, it was shutter shock, set shutter mode from mechanical to EFCS and all is fine, thanks. Pity though that mechanical is so dodgy at those slower speeds though...


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## padam (Jul 8, 2021)

EOS R6 1.4 firmware supposedly fixes this issue, and I guess the R5 will get the firmware update soon as well.


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## suhy (Nov 15, 2021)

In March of this year, I bought an eos r6 with 1.4.0 firmtware and use ef lenses (16-35 / 4 L IS, 24-105 / 4 L IS and 70-300 / 4-5.6 L IS). The shots are unique and always in focus.

This week, however, I also tested the ef 24-70 / 2.8 L, which does not have an IS system, and noticed that the first shot in the series is almost always out of focus or shifted, and the next shots are sharp. I noticed the same problem with ef 85 / 1.8, ef 50 / 1.8 and ef 35/2 lenses, which do not have an IS system. The problem occurs if I have IS mode on / Still photo IS / Only for shot set on the camera. The shifted image appears both at long times, e.g. 1/15 second, as short, e.g. 1/1000 second. Apparently, IBIS starts too late, only during the first shot, when the shutter of the camera is already open, and in the initial start-up moves the sensor so that the image is blurred or. shaken. When it starts working, the following shots are sharp.

However, if I switch to IS mode on / Still photo IS / Allways, there is no problem and the first and next shots are sharp.


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## Karl Guttag (Nov 15, 2021)

The known and verified issue was supposed to be fixed with firmware 1.4.0. Someone on the DPReview forum verified it for the R6 (see https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65299775). I have an R5 and verified that the R5's firmware update a few weeks later fixed the issue.

The known issue cause rotation in the corners. Typically the center of the image looks sharp, but the corners look blurry. It looks like the IBIS is rotating the image slightly. A quick way to check without having to download images:


 In the Play (blue) menu tab 4 set the Magnification (3rd item) to Magnification (apx) actual size from selected point
Set the focus point to be one of the corners. 
Take picture(s) and then on playback on the back LCD use the magnify button. It will zoom into the focus point in the corner.


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