# Are macro lenses essential for jewelry shooting?



## Johnster (Dec 9, 2014)

I was offered a Canon T3i Rebel because I want to shoot jewelry, but I don't feel like spending much at the beginning. 

Are lens essential for jewelry shooting? Can I get good results with the solo camera, without other types of lenses? 

(currently I run tests with iphone camera + photoshop)


----------



## beforeEos Camaras (Dec 9, 2014)

Johnster said:


> I was offered a Canon T3i Rebel because I want to shoot jewelry, but I don't feel like spending much at the beginning.
> 
> Are lens essential for jewelry shooting? Can I get good results with the solo camera, without other types of lenses?
> 
> (currently I run tests with iphone camera + photoshop)



depends on the type of jewelry you planning on taking photos large items you can get away with out Marco small details you need the extra sharpness of a macro. stands drop cloths and lights to show the luster of the items is more important flat light is your friend shadows your foe.
the t3i is up to the task a tripod is also a must and a remote release. the 60 ef-s macro is a good choice.

hope this helps


----------



## neuroanatomist (Dec 9, 2014)

A lens is essential for taking pictures of jewelry, or anything else, with a T3i. You don't state whether or not the offer includes a lens, such as the 18-55 kit lens that can be (but does not have to be) bought with the camera when it is new.

The kit lens would be fine for starting out, what is far more important than camera and lens is lighting for jewelry. The best resource I know of is a book called _Light Science and Magic_. 

Ultimately, down the road arguably the best lens for jewelry and product shooting is not a macro lens, but the TS-E 90mm.


----------



## Johnster (Dec 9, 2014)

neuroanatomist said:


> A lens is essential for taking pictures of jewelry, or anything else, with a T3i. You don't state whether or not the offer includes a lens, such as the 18-55 kit lens that can be (but does not have to be) bought with the camera when it is new.
> 
> The kit lens would be fine for starting out, what is far more important than camera and lens is lighting for jewelry. The best resource I know of is a book called _Light Science and Magic_.
> 
> Ultimately, down the road arguably the best lens for jewelry and product shooting is not a macro lens, but the TS-E 90mm.



Thank you both, for your responses.

Neuroanatomist, thank you for your advise on lightning, I extensively searched for the light subject, bought myself a light tent with the proper ilumination. I will certainly reach out for that book. 

About the offer, it comes with the "starter's kit" which includes the EF-S 18-135mm IS lens. Would it be sufficient for the start?


----------



## neuroanatomist (Dec 9, 2014)

Absolutely sufficient for starting out. A light tent provides nice, diffuse lighting – and sometimes that's exactly what you want. Sometimes you want a black background, and it can be harder to get that truly black in a light tent. Likewise, you may want specular reflections or highlights in some of the jewelry pieces. Experiment and learn…

Good luck!


----------



## TeT (Dec 10, 2014)

A close focus lens such as the 500D for a long lens or extension tubes for a short zoom will do well.

If you have a very good point n shoot or higher, try it. Some of them have a ridiculously short minimum focus distance.

I have an old SX130 IS that can focus from under 3" and with the right lighting takes fantastic jewelry pictures.

Lighting is key on the lesser cameras... less than ideal lighting reduces image quality quicker on lower end cameras...


----------



## Aglet (Dec 10, 2014)

TeT said:


> A close focus lens such as the 500D for a long lens or extension tubes for a short zoom will do well.
> 
> If you have a very good point n shoot or higher, try it. Some of them have a ridiculously short minimum focus distance.
> 
> ...



+1
the 500D is an excellent add-on to a longer lens and I've managed excellent images using it on a variety of host lenses. It'd probably work well on the 55-200/250 mm kit lens which is handy for typical uses as well.
And I often use a G11/12 for close-up work. Good light and base ISO on some of these compacts can give you decent results too and the smaller sensor provides greater DoF quite readily.


----------



## coltsfreak18 (Dec 10, 2014)

Preface: I've worked at a major jewelry and gemstone retailer, specifically in product imaging.

We exclusively use macros for all gemstone shots and usually use macros for all other purposes, occasionally using the TS-90 for necklaces and similarly large pieces. Irrespective of maximum magnification, longer focal length lenses are preferable for their increases in working distances (primarily for video, however) for usability with our Ortery boxes and other light cages. Depending on the piece, we either use glass, felt, or matte white bases if it is for a particular photo shoot. However, the majority of our product (just for the online shots and stuff) simply has the white background photoshopped out. No matter how clean your background is, you will see dirt and other distractions.

Obviously, the macro lens would be the best choice by far. But a standard lens with a closeup lens (or mounted backwards or using extension tubes) can definitely suffice. As most people have said, lighting is the biggest key. Reducing washed out specular effects, while maximizing the refraction in facets, is quite difficult. Also, you will see everything in the entire room in reflections, so a dome is pretty ideal as well.

Hope you enjoy photographing jewelry!


----------



## Mt Spokane Photography (Dec 10, 2014)

Johnster said:


> Neuroanatomist, thank you for your advise on lightning, I extensively searched for the light subject, bought myself a light tent with the proper ilumination. I will certainly reach out for that book.
> 
> About the offer, it comes with the "starter's kit" which includes the EF-S 18-135mm IS lens. Would it be sufficient for the start?


 
The issue with a conventional lens comes in getting the item you are photographing to fill most of the photograph. There are two ways to do this.

1. Extension Tubes - Hollow rings that hold the lens out from the camera body so that the image on the sensor is larger. Use tubes with electrical pass thru contacts so the camera can still control the lens aperture. The lens will only focus on close items when you do this. This is the lowest cost method that is practical.

2. A magnifier like the 500D that screws to the front of the lens. This can work, but you must match the diameter of the magnifier to the threads on the front of the lens. I would not use one for the 18-135.

3. A reverse mounting Ring screws into the threads on the front of the lens and effectively reverses it. Not good for zooms, and stopping down the lens can be a issue. Not a beginner solution.


So, you have your light tent, probably 30 inches across. The 18-135mm lens will focus as close as 17.7 inches, so you might make it work - Barely. It has a 0.21 magnification where a macro will have a 100% or 1:1 magnification. A cheap extension ring set will help you get closer to the jewelry and get more magnification.

There are few sets that are both cheap and good, so its a compromise.

Here is a $50 set that might just work for you. Metal not plastic, Automatic, which means they have the electrical carry thru to control the lens, they work with EF-s lenses. I would not use them with a large pro lens, but they will be fine with most ordinary lenses.

http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Extension-Close-Up-Autofocus-Auto-Exposure/dp/B00CYLLF16/ref=sr_1_12?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1418182973&sr=1-12&keywords=canon+ef+automatic+extension+tube+set


----------



## Hjalmarg1 (Dec 10, 2014)

It depends on the type of jewelry you planning on taking photos but with your current camera, lens and lighting set up you will get the job done. However, best results will be delivered by using a dedicated Macro Lens, such as the EF-S 60mm/2.8.
Extension tubes will get you closer and hence obtaining higher magnification and details.


----------



## danski0224 (Dec 10, 2014)

The camera will require a lens to take a picture of something.

A 50mm lens with some extension tubes will give you 1:1 macro pretty easily. Working distance will be very short and you will need very good lighting and steady hands.

As magnification goes up, depth of field will become very shallow, measured in single millimeters or fractions of an inch.

At some point, you will want to consider a good tripod, remote shutter release, tripod head and a macro focus rail.

Ballheads suck for precision work, cheap ones suck more. You will notice this when you use one and then try to make small adjustments- damn near impossible. That's when you'll want some sort of geared head. 

The macro rail would be excellent for dialing in focus. Without a rail, you are futzing with the tripod. The rail also gives you the ability to do focus stacking without changing the lens focus adjustment.


----------



## Mt Spokane Photography (Dec 11, 2014)

dilbert said:


> coltsfreak18 said:
> 
> 
> > Preface: I've worked at a major jewelry and gemstone retailer, specifically in product imaging.
> ...


 
Yes, my TS-90 was great, but the OP did not want to buy a lens, so why suggest a $1000 one?


----------

