# What Are Your Custom Modes Set To?



## friedmud (Dec 21, 2011)

Having just stepped up to the 7D from a Rebel I'm absolutely loving the three custom modes. It has led me to wonder what everyone sets them to.

Here are what mine are currently set to:

C1: Landscape
Mode: Av
Aperture: f/8
ISO: 100
Exposure: Evaluative
Drive Mode: Single
Shutter Release: 2 Second Delay
Mirror Lockup: On
Auto Lighting Optimizer: Off
Highlight Tone Priority: Disabled
Long Exposure NR: Off
Silent Shooting: Off
Output: Full RAW

C2: Portrait
Mode: Av
Aperture: f/2.8
ISO: Auto
AF: Landscape Spot (just above middle), Left Portrait (handle up) Spot just above middle, Right Portrait (handle down) full auto all points active
Exposure: Evaluative
Drive Mode: Single
Auto Lighting Optimizer: Off
Highlight Tone Priority: Disabled
Long Exposure NR: Off
Silent Shooting: Off
Output: Full RAW

C3: Wildlife Tracking
Mode: Tv
Shutter Speed: 1/800
ISO: Auto
AF Drive: Servo
AF Point: Manual Point Selection (NOT Spot!) (Middle Point)
AI Servo Track Method: Continuous AF Track Priority
AI Servo Tracking Sensitivity: +1
Exposure: Evaluative
Drive Mode: High Speed Multiple
Auto Lighting Optimizer: Off
Highlight Tone Priority: Disabled
Long Exposure NR: Off
Silent Shooting: Off
Output: Full JPEG

C3 is basically my "Holy Crap Look At That!" mode... like a moose running by, or a bald eagle snatching a fish out of the river, etc. I like that it's all the way at the end of the dial because I can just "crank it over" and be able to capture something unfolding rapidly. I chose to go with Full JPEG in that mode for longer burst capability and less space taken overall (because I'll end up with tons of photos from just a few moments of holding down the shutter release on a 7D).

So how about it... what is _your_ philosophy on how to use those custom modes?


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## PeterJ (Dec 21, 2011)

I've only got as far as using C1, almost identical settings to yours but for food and other tripod photography so manual and an aperture of f/4 which I normally use as a starting point. The main thing it helps avoid in my case is picking up the camera later to take a quick shot and getting the dreaded two second beeps while the moment was lost.

That C3 "holy crap" idea is awesome, I can see that coming into use .


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## bycostello (Dec 21, 2011)

usually all the same settings (Av f4) but a range of ISOs so i can quickly flick between them a decent shutter speed. That is the only thing i'd wish for on a new 5d, the ability to set a minimum shutter speed on auto iso, as auto iso goes too slow for me..


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## JR (Dec 21, 2011)

I tried many combo but for me I only use them to change the ISO quickly. So C1 is at ISO 1600, C2 is at 3200 and C3 is at 6400 all in Av mode. I find this faster then using the ISO button.


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## friedmud (Dec 21, 2011)

PeterJ said:


> I've only got as far as using C1, almost identical settings to yours but for food and other tripod photography so manual and an aperture of f/4 which I normally use as a starting point. The main thing it helps avoid in my case is picking up the camera later to take a quick shot and getting the dreaded two second beeps while the moment was lost.
> 
> That C3 "holy crap" idea is awesome, I can see that coming into use .



No joke on the "dreaded two second delay"... The fact that that will never happen to me again makes me almost want to weep with joy.



bycostello said:


> usually all the same settings (Av f4) but a range of ISOs so i can quickly flick between them a decent shutter speed. That is the only thing i'd wish for on a new 5d, the ability to set a minimum shutter speed on auto iso, as auto iso goes too slow for me..



Firstly, I completely agree on the minimum shutter speed deal. It is one of my big pet peeves with Canon cameras. I believe that some Nikon cameras have had it for quite a while.

Along those same lines the way the camera meters with an external flash has always bothered me. Anytime I'm using a flash in a dark area (like a birthday party, etc) I usually grab for Manual (M) mode to set the the shutter speed to something that can capture motion (like 1/200 or so) the aperture to wide open and generally ISO 400 or so (depending on how much background I want to pick up vs just the thing lit by the flash). Now that every other option is fixed the camera only has to vary the flash intensity to get the exposure right.

I wish there were a mode that I could set it to that would do something similar automatically. Generally, if I'm shooting in Av mode it will slow the ahutter speed down (and jack the ISO up) as if I didn't have the flash at all...

Finally, two people have now chimed in that they use their Custom modes just for changing ISO! This seems like it might be a design flaw with Canon's camera layout! Personally, I've aleady gotten very fast at mashing the ISO button and dialing in the ISO I want, even without taking my eye away from the camera... but is there some better way of setting ISO?

Maybe a dedicated toggle button? Another dedicated dial? Hmmm....


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## neuroanatomist (Dec 21, 2011)

With some minor variations, my 7D is set like yours - C1 for tripod, C2 for still wildlife (spot metering but not the orientation-sensitive AF points), and C3 is for birds in flight (1/1600 s, auto ISO, and specific tracking options, but still RAW). My 5DII has tripod settings as C1, C2 isn't really used, C3 (because it's quick to spin to the stop) for moving subjects (Tv, AI Servo, etc.), not that those are the 5DII's fortÃ©.



friedmud said:


> Generally, if I'm shooting in Av mode it will slow the ahutter speed down (and jack the ISO up) as if I didn't have the flash at all...



Sounds like you might have C.Fn I-7 left on default (Auto). That one sets shutter speed in Av mode, and option 2 sets it fixed at the max sync (1/250 s).


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## friedmud (Dec 21, 2011)

neuroanatomist said:


> With some minor variations, my 7D is set like yours - C1 for tripod, C2 for still wildlife (spot metering but not the orientation-sensitive AF points), and C3 is for birds in flight (1/1600 s, auto ISO, and specific tracking options, but still RAW). My 5DII has tripod settings as C1, C2 isn't really used, C3 (because it's quick to spin to the stop) for moving subjects (Tv, AI Servo, etc.), not that those are the 5DII's fortÃ©.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Interesting. I just went to check it out. I might end up switching that option. What are the downsides? If I'm shooting in the middle of the day and have the high speed sync option on on the flash will this still restrict the shutter speed to 1/250?

I guess I just need to play with it some more. Thanks for the tip!


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## bigblue1ca (Dec 21, 2011)

Presently I have one custom mode (not enough) and it's set to Manual, AI Servo, Highspeed, 1/500, 2.8, 3200, Custom WB, I use it for shooting hockey at my kids home rink.


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## briansquibb (Dec 21, 2011)

I use C3 for default flash settings 1/125, f/5.6, iso 200


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## neuroanatomist (Dec 21, 2011)

friedmud said:


> neuroanatomist said:
> 
> 
> > With some minor variations, my 7D is set like yours - C1 for tripod, C2 for still wildlife (spot metering but not the orientation-sensitive AF points), and C3 is for birds in flight (1/1600 s, auto ISO, and specific tracking options, but still RAW). My 5DII has tripod settings as C1, C2 isn't really used, C3 (because it's quick to spin to the stop) for moving subjects (Tv, AI Servo, etc.), not that those are the 5DII's fortÃ©.
> ...



With HSS, IIRC it still holds you at max sync for the camera (1/200 - 1/300 depending on body). The downside is almost no ambient contribution. The other option - 1/60 to max sync - usually ends up at 1/60, and that's reasonable ambient but often not quite enough to completely freeze the subject motion lit by the ambient light. 1/100 or 1/125 would be better, IMO.


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## RC (Dec 22, 2011)

> ...C3 is basically my "Holy Crap Look At That!" mode...



Excellent topic!

I really love the "Holy Crap" phrase. ;D and that it is at the end of the dial for quick and blind access. (I do have the original mode dial without the center lock button which can only help.)

My custom settings are very close to yours

C1 - Landscape, AV, 2/3 exposure bracketing but without the 2 sec delay and mirror lockup (is this really necessary when on a tripod?)
C2 - Portrait AV, also orientation AF enabled--currently mine is on zone; top zone for each orientation
C3 - Action TV, but with Full RAW. Might have to try the AI Servo Tracking Sensitivity: +1, that makes sense

Wish the 7D had two more C positions

To take it a step further, I'd also like to know what menu items others have added to their custom menu. I'll post mine later (on the road at the moment).


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## qless (Dec 22, 2011)

On my 5d2:
C1: Urbex mode, AEB bracketing (-2,0+2 EV), ISO 100, f7.1 
C2: Not used at the moment
C3: Holy crap mode, ISO 400, AI servo, central point focussing

I like the "holy crap mode" to describe my "action" settings


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## friedmud (Dec 22, 2011)

RC said:


> (I do have the original mode dial without the center lock button which can only help.)
> 
> My custom settings are very close to yours
> 
> ...



I wonder how many people have actually had their 7D or 5D2 modified with the locking dial. I've never had a problem with it myself. Anyone out there have the mod and think it really helps them?

I think it's interesting that several of us have exteemely similar custom modes. Both yourself and qless use some exposure bracketing in C1. I might just have to try that myself.

Mirror lockup and 2 second delay is definitely necessary on a tripod (even during the day!) for maximum sharpness. The 7D actually makes it even more important, as the pixel pitch gets smaller the susceptibility to camera shake goes up.

Good idea about zone focus. My only issue is that when I'm shooting portraits with a eide open aperture I like to focus directly on an eyeball... sometimes zone focus will pickup glasses / noses instead and then the eyes will be slightly out of focus. On the other hand zone focus would allow you to catch those tricky candid shots more often.... Hmmmm....

I picked up the servo tracking sensitivity tip from a 7D review where the guy was shooting a lot of indoor soccer and found that he had the bes luck with +1. I've only shot a bit with servo mode so far so for now I'm just going on blind faith. 

One other thing I want to point out (and maybe have some discussion on) is "continuous AF track priority". I find this optionto be really awesome but I would like to hear from others whether or not it has helped / hurt them in the field. Note that this is the reason I am NOT using spot focus in C3... Because as far as I can tell spot focus won't track...


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## friedmud (Dec 22, 2011)

Just added another option to my C3 mode: Safety Shift CFn I-6

If this is really going to be my Holy Crap! Mode then a safety shift makes sense to make sure that I capture "something". Since I have the ISO on auto, I don't think it will shift until it hits ISO 3200... which is fine by me (I wish I could limit it at ISO 800 though... Sigh)

I just tried it out in a dark room and it seems to work as promised (Adjusting my shutter speed even though I'm in Tv mode because the exposure would be terrible)


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## DCMoney (Dec 22, 2011)

Don’t have my camera in front of me but they go something like this.

C1- my everyday settings
AV
ISO 160
AF Point Manual selection
Frame rate to burst
RAW format
AWB

C2- My here take my camera and take some pictures setting, mainly for the wife and friends that don’t have the knowledge to set ISO aperture exposure.

Almost everything is set to AUTO
Frame rate is set to single shot, hated getting 15 pictures of the same thing…
RAW format
Autofocus bracket things…

C3- Camera B&W setting (This will probably change soon since it can all be done in LR with a RAW image anyway)

AV
ISO 160
Frame rate single shot
JPEG+RAW, get a B&W image on the screen plus a color RAW copy
AF Point Manual selection


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## friedmud (Dec 22, 2011)

DCMoney said:


> Don’t have my camera in front of me but they go something like this.
> 
> C1- my everyday settings
> AV
> ...



Interesting idea there on a "dummy" mode. Do you find that it is easier for people to use than say "P" mode or full auto?

Interesting again on the B&W idea. I too set my camera to shoot B&W when I'm out specifically for that purpose (so that the review photo is B&W and I can see how I'm doing). I just shoot RAW though... and when LR3 first imports them they are color of course... then I have the choice to turn them back to B&W or not. I don't mess with JPG for B&W (RAW files are great for B&W because you can push and pull on them so much more to get a dramatic look to the photo).


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## smirkypants (Dec 22, 2011)

Before shooting a game I'll C2 to AV wide open and the ISO I think I'll need, C3 a stop up and C1 a stop down of ISO. That way if the action moves quickly into shadow or brighter sun, a quick click and I'm there. I now flip them without thinking.


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## wickidwombat (Dec 22, 2011)

smirkypants said:


> Before shooting a game I'll C2 to AV wide open and the ISO I think I'll need, C3 a stop up and C1 a stop down of ISO. That way if the action moves quickly into shadow or brighter sun, a quick click and I'm there. I now flip them without thinking.



ooo i like that setup.


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## catz (Dec 22, 2011)

None of the C-modes in use. I dial to M instead (for video):
Shutter 1/50. 
ISO based on the need to correctly expose
f-stop based on the needed in-focus area and to properly expose
ND filter as needed
Picture styles:
- Cinema with default settings or possibly contrast a bit reduced or
- Technicolor with contrast set to middle or one below middle, and the reduced saturation dialed in the middle or
- Sometimes neutral with different settings (in contrast for example) or
- Depending on situation and how I can properly expose on each style
- I don't keep the "super flat" technicolor super flat if it will not properly expose that way (histogram peaking in the middle and nothing on the bottom and top ends helps no-one but just causes block artifacts, aim is always to properly expose and use all the bits there are).

To shoot stills, I increase the shutter speed as 1/50 is a bit too slow and adjust other values accordingly.
Because I shoot always RAW, I don't need to go to change the picture style back to a less flat style than I use for video as for RAW it does not matter.

I shoot the stills almost with identical settings than the video because I don't have time to switch mode (even with the C-dial). Sometimes I shoot stills with the 1/50 shutter and don't care that the motion blur will be extreme.


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## neuroanatomist (Dec 22, 2011)

friedmud said:


> DCMoney said:
> 
> 
> > C2- My here take my camera and take some pictures setting, mainly for the wife and friends that don’t have the knowledge to set ISO aperture exposure.
> ...



I use green square/full auto for that. It maintains the image format (RAW), and most importantly, cancels back-button AF, which IIRC just putting it in P does not. 

I'm going to have to figure out a 'here, please take our picture' mode for the 1D X. Any suggestions from current 1-series users?


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## wickidwombat (Dec 22, 2011)

neuroanatomist said:


> friedmud said:
> 
> 
> > DCMoney said:
> ...



i just put it in AV and set the aperture myself and show them quickly the back button focus button on the 1D seems to work ok.

no custom modes on current 1 series, i wonder if the 1Dx will have them


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## neuroanatomist (Dec 23, 2011)

@wickidwombat - thanks!


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## wickidwombat (Dec 23, 2011)

i forgot to mention the bigger problem i find handing the camera over is most people are not used to the weight of the 1D with a heavy L lens so they wobble a bit make sure IS is on for them


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## neuroanatomist (Dec 23, 2011)

I've noticed - I've got battery grips on both my bodies, so the weight is about the same as a 1-series. Thanks again!


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## DCMoney (Dec 23, 2011)

friedmud said:


> DCMoney said:
> 
> 
> > Don’t have my camera in front of me but they go something like this.
> ...



Its basically P mode, using custom settings just reinsures me that the settings I want are going to be there. Rotate to C2 turn wheel to set aperture depending on lighting conditions and let them have a go at it. 

I don't like full auto because it'll pop the flash up at times where a flash isn't required (IMO). unless there's a way to disable the flash?

I was not aware I could set the picture style to monochrome with RAW format, and it'll show me a B&W image and produce a color RAW image, going to stop the JPEG+RAW. I also used this setting before I learned about LR and how great RAW images are. Thanks!

EDIT:

Whats the deal with using the back focus button on the 1D series?


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## neuroanatomist (Dec 23, 2011)

DCMoney said:


> I don't like full auto because it'll pop the flash up at times where a flash isn't required (IMO). unless there's a way to disable the flash?



Ahhh...makes sense. In green square mode, you're right - there's no way to disable the popup flash. Fortunately not an issue for me, as the 5DII (which is the camera I'm almost certain to have in such situations) doesn't have an onboard flash.


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## DCMoney (Dec 23, 2011)

neuroanatomist said:


> DCMoney said:
> 
> 
> > I don't like full auto because it'll pop the flash up at times where a flash isn't required (IMO). unless there's a way to disable the flash?
> ...



I just went through the settings trying to disable it on my 7D and after looking through the menu and Q button menu found nothing. Actually the menu is so limited to what you can do I realized that's the first time I've ever put the camera into full auto mode... I've owned this body since October 09...


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## RC (Dec 23, 2011)

friedmud said:


> RC said:
> 
> 
> > ...Mirror lockup and 2 second delay is definitely necessary on a tripod (even during the day!) for maximum sharpness. The 7D actually makes it even more important, as the pixel pitch gets smaller the susceptibility to camera shake goes up....
> ...


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## PeterJ (Dec 23, 2011)

DCMoney said:


> I just went through the settings trying to disable it on my 7D and after looking through the menu and Q button menu found nothing. Actually the menu is so limited to what you can do I realized that's the first time I've ever put the camera into full auto mode... I've owned this body since October 09...


Not a custom function but the internal flash also won't pop if it thinks an external is attached, that's a mechanical switch so a cheap hot shoe cover will do the trick.


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## DCMoney (Dec 23, 2011)

PeterJ said:


> DCMoney said:
> 
> 
> > I just went through the settings trying to disable it on my 7D and after looking through the menu and Q button menu found nothing. Actually the menu is so limited to what you can do I realized that's the first time I've ever put the camera into full auto mode... I've owned this body since October 09...
> ...



Nice, just googled this and sure enough people complaining hot shoe cover disabling there flash! And for 5 bucks ill pick one up and try it out.


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## photolessons (Dec 23, 2011)

wickidwombat said:


> smirkypants said:
> 
> 
> > Before shooting a game I'll C2 to AV wide open and the ISO I think I'll need, C3 a stop up and C1 a stop down of ISO. That way if the action moves quickly into shadow or brighter sun, a quick click and I'm there. I now flip them without thinking.
> ...



This is basically the setup I use, I like it a lot.


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## briansquibb (Dec 24, 2011)

wickidwombat said:


> i forgot to mention the bigger problem i find handing the camera over is most people are not used to the weight of the 1D with a heavy L lens so they wobble a bit make sure IS is on for them



Tripod and gimbal works well


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