# Best foam/padding solution for a custom camera cabinet



## ahsanford (Jun 4, 2014)

All, I am building a camera cabinet out of some CD/DVD storage filing cabinets:

http://thevideostoreshopper.com/THE%20ULTIMATE%20STORAGE%20CABINET%20-%202%20DRAWER%20STORAGE%20CABINET

So it's foam time now!

I'm of two minds with this, and I'd like everyone's thoughts:

1) I love camera bags' modular divider systems as I can rearrange things easily, but foaming and velcro-ing four 34" x 20" trays will take serious time. I've seen rectangular foam inserts for satchel bags, but nothing this big -- Is anyone aware of a shortcut or pre-set kit that might help?

2) I also have seen folks get Pick n Pluck foam (http://www.caseclub.com/pick-and-pluck-foam.htm?gclid=CObYgIXO4L4CFQdgfgod5igADg) to build specialized cutouts that tightly hug gear. As impressive as this looks, I don't think I need that level of protection for a home cabinet that will not be on wheels. I'm also worried that Pick n Pluck is a one-time deal and I often like to rearrange the organization of my gear. But talk me down -- has anyone used it? What has your experience been?

3) Is there another option that might work?

Also, I was thinking a relatively thin (1/4") neoprene/foam mat on the floor of each tray -- one big sheet across the entire shelf that the dividers would subsequently go on top of. Can people recommend a good material for this? (I know that seems like very little bottom padding, but the real threat to the gear is side to side motion with a jarring opening or closing, right?) 

Thanks!
A


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## AcutancePhotography (Jun 4, 2014)

To ask a basic question: Why do you think you need foam in the first place?

As you wrote, this is a cabinet not a suitcase. For my photography equipment I used Barrister Bookcases so that the glass doors help keep the dust out. For padding, I used some approprately sized white towels.

Cheap, inexpensive, and best of all, it didn't cost too much. ;D

One of the problems with dividers and the pluck foam is changability. You don't want to lock yourself into one configuration. All you need to do is keep the equipment, which is stored in a stationary cabinet, from rubbing/knocking against something else as you remove/replace stuff. 

Are you sure that type of cabinet is the best for your purposes? I would have gone with wood myself. You can find some nice wood cases with glass doors for less than that metal one you referenced.


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## ahsanford (Jun 4, 2014)

AcutancePhotography said:


> Are you sure that type of cabinet is the best for your purposes? I would have gone with wood myself. You can find some nice wood cases with glass doors for less than that metal one you referenced.



This topic was tortured at length in my other thread (that I've seen you just now post on). I wanted one-step / super-quick access without any clear indication that camera gear was inside, so outside doors and/or glass were ruled out. I was gunning for a super-high packing efficiency solution, and I felt that the cases I bought were a combination of the right size (will be at task/bench height once I stack them), right shelf depth, fast access, opaque and secure.

But back on to foam, I share the concerns with the pluck foam and am personally leaning towards dividers.

Re: why I think I need foam, it gets down to momentum of the drawers. This will load/unload like a standing tool chest, and the contents may knock together from the motion of the drawers. I agree the bottom padding could be simple (I never would have thought of a towel, thanks for the tip), but the side to side / front to back padding should be more robust, I think.

So I'm kicking around the following ideas for foam dividers:


*Something like standard camera bag dividers just over a much longer span.* Does anyone sell really long and/or free standing versions of these? (With roughly 5-6" deep drawers, standard dividers seen in backpacks should be just about the right height...)
*Pick n Pluck foam* -- again, I'm leery about a 'one-time and you're done design', but this stuff is ideal for fitting custom-sized spaces. If I did this, I don't think I'd get a bottom on it -- I'd core it out to simply prevent items from touching each other or the walls of the drawers.
*Are there any modular systems I could 'build up' for each item I need to chamber?* Possibly from non-photography sectors? (Paging IKEA...)

I appreciate everyone's guidance on this.

- A


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## niteclicks (Jun 4, 2014)

If you know someone that sews, some nylon and poly fill dividers would be cheap and quick.


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## ahsanford (Jun 4, 2014)

niteclicks said:


> If you know someone that sews, some nylon and poly fill dividers would be cheap and quick.



My girlfriend could (she's really good at it), but that's a massive ask given how many we are talking about -- that's 4x 30"x16" sets of dividers. I'm leaning heavily towards 'buy' over 'make' given the scale of the job. 

Thx

- A


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## wtlloyd (Jun 4, 2014)

Have a thought about material offgassing, don't just go with whatever is cheap...


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## ScubaX (Jun 4, 2014)

Not sure where this system is in it's production, but it looks interesting.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/trekpak/trekpak

Also, there are systems made for Pelican cases, but prepare for sticker shock.


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## JPAZ (Jun 4, 2014)

While what you plan will be very nice, any drawer with a towel on the bottom and each lens wrapped/inserted in a clean sock should work just as well for a lot less investment. And, if you like, you could sew a label on each sock indicated what's stored within. Unless the drawer is really getting slammed, this should offer enough protection.

As far as "foam" solutions, drink "koozies" work quite well. I know you are looking for a more permanent and classier solution. Or you could just get long strips of posterboard and cut notches so they fit together into various sized squares / rectangles and place that assembly into the drawer.


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## ahsanford (Jun 4, 2014)

ScubaX said:


> Not sure where this system is in it's production, but it looks interesting.
> 
> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/trekpak/trekpak
> 
> Also, there are systems made for Pelican cases, but prepare for sticker shock.



I've scouted the Pelican foam inserts. For the one that is about the right size, I'd save $30 for leaving it out of a $400 case purchase, but a standalone foam buy is $140 for some reason. Pass.

Currently looking into the following:

http://www.nanuk.com/content.asp?node=170

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Brand_Fiberbilt+by+Case+Design&ci=16645&N=4075788775+4268641657+4290436187
(Great idea: pretty doggone customizable, but they lack the longer lengths that I need at the right depth. igth have to fudge two end pieces together)

I have options here -- I just need to do my research.

- A


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## ahsanford (Jun 4, 2014)

ScubaX said:


> Not sure where this system is in it's production, but it looks interesting.
> 
> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/trekpak/trekpak
> 
> Also, there are systems made for Pelican cases, but prepare for sticker shock.



Holy schnikes I missed the kickstarter link (my prior comment about price was about native Pelican inserts for sale. 

That kickstarter is a fantastic concept for what I am doing...

- A


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## eli452 (Jun 4, 2014)

Try the "Removable photo insert for the Gura Gear Chobe 19-24L Shoulder Bag" or similar. This is a 
Padded dividers keep your gear separated and safe.
Can also be used with other bags to turn them into photo gear bags.
Dimensions: 14.5"L x 5.5"W x 6" T (37 x 14 x 15.2 cm)
Weight: 11.8 oz (334 g)
for 59$
see http://www.outdoorphotogear.com/store/gura-gear-chobe-19-24l-shoulder-bag-photo-insert.html


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jun 4, 2014)

I'd say that foam for a non moving cabinet is gross overkill, and, if it rots or decomposes, as cheap foam is known to do, you'll have a big mess. it can also help generate a electrostatic charge, which is not good. You can get conductive foam, of course, but it flakes off easily.

I like the idea of a nice cotton towel.


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## pwp (Jun 4, 2014)

My equipment cabinet is cold hard steel. 
It's smooth and easy to slide cases and bags in & out.
Padding? Why? Do you live in an earthquake zone?

-pw


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## WPJ (Jun 5, 2014)

Yoga or camping mat and sticky Velcro done.


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## ahsanford (Jun 5, 2014)

pwp said:


> My equipment cabinet is cold hard steel.
> It's smooth and easy to slide cases and bags in & out.
> Padding? Why? Do you live in an earthquake zone?
> 
> -pw



1) Yes on earthquakes, but that's not the motivation. A filing cabinet / standing tool chest sliding door will (slightly) bang the gear around from opening and closing motions. I don't need inch thick Lowepro overkill padding -- just a non-rigid / non-scuffing / non-dust collecting buffer between items.

2) The point of this cabinet is to hold all of my gear in-between shoots -- but _*out*_ of a bag. Bags will be 100% emptied upon arriving at home. There are a host of reasons behind this:


I use a lot of bags and I spend forever leaving item X in bag Y and tracking it down.
I'm living with someone now and not all my bags look like camera bags, so an odd lens in the bottom of a satchel could get picked up (like it was a backpack) and chucked around. This cabinet is effectively my 'lens embassy' when I'm not shooting, and it insulates her from having a horrifying drop-a-lens-on-the-ground moment.
This cabinet is a huge step towards to resetting my gear each time I come home -- everything in its right place and the bags get stowed out of the way. 

So, simply put, I'm moving past leaving gear in bags. It's not a better or worse than what everyone else does, but it's definitely best for me.

- A


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## ahsanford (Jun 5, 2014)

eli452 said:


> Try the "Removable photo insert for the Gura Gear Chobe 19-24L Shoulder Bag" or similar. This is a
> Padded dividers keep your gear separated and safe.
> Can also be used with other bags to turn them into photo gear bags.
> Dimensions: 14.5"L x 5.5"W x 6" T (37 x 14 x 15.2 cm)
> ...



eli452 --> thanks. There are a jillion of these, but none at my estimated 30" x 16" size. Scroll up for how I might foam something that big, but building up 30x16 with numerous smaller inserts like these prevents me from storing the tripod, monopod, etc. I'd like to have more flexibility with what goes in there.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/trekpak/trekpak was linked to me, and it looks phenomenal, but at the size of my cabinet drawers, this would be something like $140 a drawer to outfit. That's too rich for a project like this.

Nanuk and Pelican both have large foam insert sets with sidewalls, but Nanuk's aren't quite the right size and the Pelican standalone foam sets cost a fortune as well.

The budget solution (that isn't a homebrew lower quality call like posterboard or bulk foam cut to shape) is this Fiberbilt stuff that you snap together. Clever and less expensive, but they also lack some of the lengths I need.

And, behind door #4, is Pick n Pluck Foam, which handles the size well and isn't terribly expensive but is _so _customized that rerranging the layout of gear will be problematic.

My search is just getting started, though. I'm sure there's a simple / cheap solution that I've missed. Kitchen drawer dividers or dresser drawer dividers maybe?

- A


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## ahsanford (Jun 5, 2014)

Annnnnd I'm fairly stumped. 

Every reconfigurable solution I see is about $150 _per drawer_ in the case:

3 of these inserts from Pelican: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/664024-REG/Hardigg_Storm_Case_IM2200_DIV_Padded_Divider_Set.html

3 of these inserts from Nanuk: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/902366-REG/Nanuk_920_DIVI_Padded_Divider.html

2 Rollipak sets from TrekPak: http://trekpak.com/rollipak-48/

Just about $150 worth of pieces of this stuff: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Brand_Fiberbilt+by+Case+Design&ci=16645&N=4075788775+4268641657+4290436187

So I have to say uncle to the grand notion of having 4 super flexibly chambered drawers full of camera gear. So it's either bulk foam time, DIY alternate divider material time or I opt for Pick n Pluck (at around $30-50 depending on who I use).

Any other ideas?

- A


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## ahsanford (Jun 5, 2014)

The only other left field idea I came up with is Pick n Pluck carved out aggressively (to look like a padded divider insert) like the picture attached. I'd then use generic camera bag dividers to separate what is in each 'channel'.

This would be about $30-50 a drawer and possibly overcome the Pick n Pluck 'limited reconfigurability' problem. On one of my drawers, the one with the monopod and tripod, I'd have to go the other way and channel it horizontally, but in principal, it might work.

Anyone ever use Pick n Pluck before? Might this work? Is 1" a thick/rigid enough structure with that stuff, or should it be thicker to avoid caving/rolling?

Thoughts appreciated, thanks.

- A


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## sagittariansrock (Jun 5, 2014)

Here's a DIY route (and many such items you can buy, too):

Take a bunch of foamboards or better still gatorboards (http://www.artsupply.com/foamcore/gatorboard.htm)
Cut them to the width=depth of your drawers with an Xacto knife
Take sticky velcro (hook) and tape it to both sides in three horizontal stripes
Go to town with a bunch of velcro-style dividers as in camera bags
You can also use smaller gatorboard pieces and tape the loop tapes to the edges, wrapping around (stick three or four pieces to give yourself a working thickness).


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## ScubaX (Jun 5, 2014)

You could use the dividers that come with your cabinet and then use Velcro strips to mount subdivides in each slot. These could be cardboard, sheet metal or the same ones were all use to in our bags. You could further pad each slot with a microfiber cloth made for cars such as the ones Costco sells in bulk bags. They are cheap and wont leave cotton dust all over your equipment. You might also use the pouches and bags provided by Canon for 'L' lenses or even pick up some cheap ones on the aftermarket.

The tripods and mono-pods could be put in bags designed for tripods and just put in the drawer - no padding or dividers needed. 

For your camera body and flashes, just use the microfiber.

If you don't want to use Velcro, then maybe rare earth magnets - just keep them off the electronic and they should be fine : - probably!


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## ahsanford (Jun 5, 2014)

Great suggestions, all. Much to think about.

The cabinets arrive tomorrow and I'll have some measuring to do. Then it's decision time.

- A


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## axtstern (Jun 5, 2014)

Humble advice from my side:

Less is more. Be carefull with solvents, glues and softeners found a plenty in any kind divider seperator etc..
Kitchentool deviders are tested for not hurting metal, Building material is teswted to withstand chemicals but not tested for how it behaves next to micro electronics etc...

The rubber armor of your lenses is usualy a week point. covering them with a non tested foam pipe might make the different softeners and other agents react with each other.

Static would be my next worry. Cleaning a lens, rubbing at a filther, placing the lens afterwrds at a nice isolating piece of rubber.... be careful when touching the contacts of the lens.

There are plenty of diy suggestions on the web for cabinets aiming at collectors of model trains. They have the same challenge like you: metal, rubber , electronics and everything fragile. Maybe you can find a few tricks there.


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## AcutancePhotography (Jun 5, 2014)

You might consider using the rubber mats can are designed for tool chests. They have a high friction characteristic as they are designed to keep tools from shifting when the chests are opened. I have those in my tool chests and even light screwdrivers don't move even when I yank the chest open (as I frequently, and unfortunately do)

If you are set on dividers, I would look toward the kitchen area. There are modular drawer divider kits. The dividers don't need to be very high.

Good luck with this.


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## Valvebounce (Jun 8, 2014)

Hi Ahsanford. 
I have used pick and pluck if it is the stuff cut in to 1/2" squares that you then tear out. It is crap, more than 3 segments of a single row and it will have no real resistance to deflection due to the strength only being the 1/16" connection between each adjoining block, it will be slightly but not a lot stiffer at 2 blocks wide, any more than that will just really eat in to your space.
Have you considered a DIY approach using stock closed cell foam, a guy near my workshop uses stuff very similar to what is in camera dividers. He makes military gear and buys it in large sheets, 4'x2', or maybe 8'x4' cut up by the time I have seen it. It is dual density for graduated protection and I would imagine that one sheet would see you done. 
I would cut it in to strips then half house the strips where you want them to cross. Not exactly easy to reconfigure but probably cheap enough to start again if you don't like the first layout you decide upon after hours of placing and moving of your gear, you are going to lay it out first without dividers to get a best fit aren't you? ;D

Cheers Graham.


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## ahsanford (Jun 9, 2014)

Thanks to all the responses!

In my four drawers, I presently will have:

Top Drawer = accessories: remotes, chargers, gizmos/doodads, cleaning items, straps, etc.
2nd Drawer = all lenses and bodies and standard on-lens filters
3rd Drawer = expansion for down the road (will start as being empty)
4th Drawer = outdoor gear: tripod, monopod, 4x6 and 4x4 filter system, arca head, plates, sandbag, etc.

...And I think we'd agree certain items need more protection than others. So, my plan will be to use a 1/4" thick yoga mat to line the bottom of each drawer, and...

Top Drawer = Keep it cheap: Simple tackle box / kitchen drawer like plastic dividers in a grid
2nd Drawer = Pay the money: Either the Pelican/Nanuk foam inserts or the TrekPak divider system
3rd Drawer = Nothing for now
4th Drawer = See how use dictates I protect things, but I think I'll leave items loose, except the Arca head (which will go in it's padded box) and the filters (which I have in a padded MindShift FilterHive).

Thanks to everyone's advice on this thread. I truly appreciate it!

- A


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## sagittariansrock (Jun 9, 2014)

ahsanford said:


> Thanks to all the responses!
> 
> In my four drawers, I presently will have:
> 
> ...



Make sure your 3rd drawer is big enough for the Great Whites. And don't forget to post some pictures when done.
Cheers!


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## ahsanford (Jun 9, 2014)

sagittariansrock said:


> Make sure your 3rd drawer is big enough for the Great Whites. And don't forget to post some pictures when done.
> Cheers!



Nice try on the superteles. 

200mm (or 400mm with the 2x) is as long as I need for what I shoot, and I'm not paying the bucks to grab one stop over my 70-200 F/2.8L IS II. So I spec'd this case for front-filtered lenses that fit in a 5.5" drawer, which is everything I own.

Future pickups are an ultrawide and likely an autofocusing 50 prime to replace my Canon 50/1.4 (still waiting for Canon's IS answer to the Art lens before I decide), and maaaaaaybe a a tilt-shift, an 85L or a future 135L II someday. All of those will fit nicely in the drawers I've selected.

Photos of the case are coming for sure, but it may be a while. TrekPak doesn't ship their first products until early July. 

- A


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## expatinasia (Jun 9, 2014)

Not sure if this helps or not, but there was a time when I thought I needed foam padding for my carry on laptop wheely bag. I had looked everywhere and just could not find something camera friendly that could also fit my laptop and loads of other electronics. After spending hours looking, I eventually decided to make my own.

I went to the local hardware shop and bought some kind of thin insulation, the type that is shiny silver on one side (to reflect heat) and cushiony on the other. My plan was to fold this insulation over to provide the size and thickness I needed then choose a suitable material to cover it and get someone to sew it all up.

I still have all the bits and pieces and never did complete the project, as I realised I have so much stuff in the bag there is no room for anything to move around anyway! 

Still, I am convinced my solution would have worked very well and would have solved the problem. A problem that on some levels, is similar to your own.

Good luck.


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## sagittariansrock (Jun 10, 2014)

ahsanford said:


> sagittariansrock said:
> 
> 
> > Make sure your 3rd drawer is big enough for the Great Whites. And don't forget to post some pictures when done.
> ...



So you ordered those Trekpaks, eh?
The prototype looked better than the mass production, unfortunately. Also, at 3 lbs for the smaller Rollipack, I am worried about how much weight that will add. The velcro dividers are supposed to be 1 lb.


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## AcutancePhotography (Jun 10, 2014)

expatinasia said:


> I went to the local hardware shop and bought some kind of thin insulation, the type that is shiny silver on one side (to reflect heat) and cushiony on the other.



Do you mean fiberglass insulation? I would not recommend that as tiny pieces of fiberglass fibers getting into your camera/lens can't be good.


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## ahsanford (Jun 10, 2014)

sagittariansrock said:


> So you ordered those Trekpaks, eh?
> The prototype looked better than the mass production, unfortunately. Also, at 3 lbs for the smaller Rollipack, I am worried about how much weight that will add. The velcro dividers are supposed to be 1 lb.


Not yet I haven't. 

First: there is no phone number to call.

Second: Using their contact web form I asked them a softball question of "can I use those couplers to attach two segments end to end (to make a longer one), and though I'm pretty sure the answer is yes, I've gotten no response in _days_ other than a same-day automailer saying they'd get back to me soon.

Then I saw this: http://blog.trekpak.com/2013/11/shipment-delay-our-apologies/

Then I saw this: Nothing ships until July 7th

And then I wondered (a) how badly they wanted my business and (b) if it's Nanuk/Pelican insert time. (I've spoken to the Pelican customer support folks and they are _on top of it _-- their products, what goes with what, what my options are, etc. I'm assuming Nanuk would be similar.)

[email protected]#$es me off as this looks like a stellar idea for a product. I may wait it out further, as it's the only 30"x20" option I have that won't have repeat walls. (All the Nanuk/Pelican options involve putting 2-3 inserts in side by side.)

- A


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