# Video Question: What can I do to make it easier to see if the video is in focus



## JonB8305 (Oct 26, 2013)

I've used a 5d 2 and 6D to shoot videos, but it's very difficult to tell if the shot is in focus on the tiny LCD. Would I have to purchase an external field monitor?


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## jdramirez (Oct 27, 2013)

it would be nice if the af points lit up when the subject was in focus. and then we could compose based on af point location and adjust the focus ring and stop when it lights up.


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## cinema-dslr (Oct 27, 2013)

Installing magiclantern will give you focus peaking wich will help by putting a redline on infocus subjects.


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## RunAndGun (Oct 27, 2013)

One solution:

http://store.zacuto.com/z-finder-products/


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## jdramirez (Oct 27, 2013)

cinema-dslr said:


> Installing magiclantern will give you focus peaking wich will help by putting a redline on infocus subjects.


I love magic lantern... I really should install it some day.


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## JonB8305 (Oct 27, 2013)

jdramirez said:


> it would be nice if the af points lit up when the subject was in focus. and then we could compose based on af point location and adjust the focus ring and stop when it lights up.



The 6D does have some facial recognition focus confirm by putting a green box around peoples faces, at least I think it confirms focus.


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## JonB8305 (Oct 27, 2013)

cinema-dslr said:


> Installing magiclantern will give you focus peaking wich will help by putting a redline on infocus subjects.



I don't think it's available on the 6D.


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## paul13walnut5 (Oct 27, 2013)

There are a few things you can do to help.

The first thing I would say is that I tried shooting video with a 5d2 before I bought my 7D, and found wide aperture focusing very difficult, aps-c is much more forgiving, but still achieves that large sensor look.

Use the lenses innate depth of field for certain subjects. Getting in close with a wide angle is much easier than zooming in with a tele. Same physics apply as for photography.. long lenses and wide apertures really throw the background focus out, but depth of field can be in the mm's. 

Don't be afraid to stop down. Your lenses will be at their best a stop or two down from max anyway. Not everything has to be done in that wide open shallow dof style, you'll be surprised how a stop or two retains most of the look you want, but makes focusing much more forgiving.

Finally, use live view zoom to pre-focus before recording. Works well for fairly static situations. If you have parfocal lenses you can do this live, but many canon EF lenses aren't parfocal (that is, they hold focus through the range of the zoom) 

If you want to spend some money on the issue and get better video then mechanical lenses are good, with focus end stops and large, well dampened focus rings. The Samyangs are a starting point. 

Magic Lantern does have focus peaking, but many external monitors also offer this without having to run ML (I've never been all that confident with it)

I would avoid AF, AF assist, or AF reference points, many lenses are focus by wire, it would be good if canon introduced a temporary 'one touch AF' button, should be feasable with STM lenses, but until then..


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## Lloyd (Oct 27, 2013)

Camranger will allow live view from my 5Diii to be displayed wirelessly on my iPad and includes focus peaking in latest software. http://www.camranger.com


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## joema (Oct 27, 2013)

jdramirez said:


> it would be nice if the af points lit up when the subject was in focus. and then we could compose based on af point location and adjust the focus ring and stop when it lights up.



The AF points are deactivated and physically removed from the light path when the mirror is up in video mode. This diagram is with the mirror down, but you can see when the primary and secondary mirrors flip up (Live View mode), no light reaches the phase-detect AF sensors: http://leongoodman.tripod.com/d70/dslrchartweb500.jpg

As already stated, ML will give focus peaking assistance, however it's not available in a stable build on some cameras, and not available for the 5D3 running 1.2.1 firmware. This means you couldn't have clean HDMI out, or use cross-type AF point at f/8, or any other features and enhancements of 1.2.1.

One solution is using a clip-on LCD loupe to magnify the LCD. Several companies make these; I've used the Zacuto Z-Finder which is good.

Another solution is a field monitor which has focus peaking built in. Yet another is an EVF.

The Zacuto EVF Pro is my preferred solution since it provides another point of contact to stabilize the camera, shields your eye in bright conditions, is more private than a field monitor, plus has focus peaking and zebra exposure aids.


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## JonB8305 (Oct 27, 2013)

joema said:


> jdramirez said:
> 
> 
> > it would be nice if the af points lit up when the subject was in focus. and then we could compose based on af point location and adjust the focus ring and stop when it lights up.
> ...



EVF Pro looks like what I need, but that cost is steep. If I start making real money from these videos i'll have to invest in one.


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## thgmuffin (Oct 28, 2013)

6D+Focus Peaking from ML have saved many of my shots!


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## joema (Oct 28, 2013)

JonB8305 said:


> ...EVF Pro looks like what I need, but that cost is steep. If I start making real money from these videos i'll have to invest in one.



I also agonized a long time before getting it. It is the best money I've ever spent on DSLR video. It absolutely transforms my ability to nail focus and exposure, plus the additional contact points helps stabilization.

You have other options at lower price points. The Zacuto Z-Finder (several models available) are good. There are competing products from Hoodman: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/573167-REG/Hoodman_H_LPP3_HoodLoupe_Professional_LCD_Screen.html and Cinevate: http://www.cinevate.com/store2/cyclops-viewfinder.html#sthash.RQV9s3yl.dpbs

RedRock Micro announced an EVF back in 2011, but they have not shipped it yet: http://store.redrockmicro.com/EVF

Cineroid has an EVF that's a little cheaper than the Zacuto: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=982065&Q=&is=REG&A=details

Your best low-cost approach is an LCD loupe of some kind. This also avoids the HDMI sync delays (a few sec) when you switch between still and video mode.


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## JonB8305 (Nov 1, 2013)

joema said:


> JonB8305 said:
> 
> 
> > ...EVF Pro looks like what I need, but that cost is steep. If I start making real money from these videos i'll have to invest in one.
> ...



Is Zacuto the best of the bunch?


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## sjschall (Nov 1, 2013)

You can start with the z-finder or similar loupe instead of the EVF. It's a more affordable solution and still helps a lot with focus and adds the contact point. There's lot's of cheaper options that still work well, such as the Carry Speed ones.


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## Ron Bailey (Nov 1, 2013)

Without a doubt I would go with the SmallHD AC7-OLED monitor. I use it with my TS-E 17mm and love it. Why bother wasting a butt load of time zooming in when you can let the software tell you when you are in focus?

Bright as heck in full sunlight also. http://www.smallhd.com/products/ac7/index.html


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## Nishi Drew (Nov 1, 2013)

Well I see several answers that'll solve the question in the thread here, but just have to say: "F/8 and be there"


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## paul13walnut5 (Nov 1, 2013)

Nishi Drew said:


> Well I see several answers that'll solve the question in the thread here, but just have to say: "F/8 and be there"



If it works for you then great.

Personally, as in video you already cede control over the shutter, and would usually seek lowest or at least uniform ISO for consistency accross frames, the last thing I would do would be to restrict myself to one aperture, especially such a slow one.


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## McBrad (Nov 4, 2013)

I really like the focus peaking on the SmallHD DP4. They make an EVF for it which is nice in the sun.

http://www.smallhd.com/products/dp4/index.html


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## Axilrod (Nov 4, 2013)

Get a monitor or EVF, but even then it's a bit difficult since the HDMI drops to SD when you hit record.


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## JonB8305 (Nov 4, 2013)

Axilrod said:


> Get a monitor or EVF, but even then it's a bit difficult since the HDMI drops to SD when you hit record.



Thats very good to know.


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## SPG (Nov 6, 2013)

Keep in mind that monitors and EVFs add another level of complexity with cables, batteries, mounts, and settings. The loupes like the Zacuto Z-Finder are dead simple. They just snap on the back and you're there. 
A big part of your decision should be based on your shooting style. Are you in the studio on sticks? A monitor will be fine. Are you shooting handheld outside? Loupe will be light, block the sunlight, and provide a point of contact to steady your camera. I use both, depending on the situation I'm in but most of the time I'm using the Z-Finder instead of a monitor.


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