# Question about long exposure and filters



## Hobby Shooter (May 1, 2013)

Hey, I'm in Asia so it's morning here. Later today, I will try long exposure for the first time. I went to pick up a grey filter last week, but they only had 3-stop filters. I only picked up one and didn't give it more thought. Now having read up a bit on it, I see that I would probably need more. I won't by another filter today so my question to you is the following, can I stack a CPL to the grey filter?

I will anyway give it a try, but are there any particular things I need to look out for?


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## J.R. (May 1, 2013)

You can always stack the ND and the CPL. I've tried with the Hoya ND8 and the CPL on the 24-105 in the past but the vignetting at focal lengths under 30mm was terrible. It might help if the CPL is a slim filter. 

Other than the issue of vignetting, I'd suggest you shoot RAW. The stacked filters are more than likely to generate a color cast which will be tough to correct if shooting JPG.


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## Hobby Shooter (May 1, 2013)

J.R. said:


> You can always stack the ND and the CPL. I've tried with the Hoya ND8 and the CPL on the 24-105 in the past but the vignetting at focal lengths under 30mm was terrible. It might help if the CPL is a slim filter.
> 
> Other than the issue of vignetting, I'd suggest you shoot RAW. The stacked filters are more than likely to generate a color cast which will be tough to correct if shooting JPG.


Hi, thanks, yes I always shoot RAW and edit in LR4. That was exactly what I was looking for, if there are any odd things that will show up because of this mix. Unfortunately I have quite cheap filters, can't get good ones where I live. But the CPL is a slim filter. I will shoot from a balcony out over the late afternoon traffic, into the setting sun towards a famous monument here. I will most likely shoot longer than 30mm. I know what you mean about the vignetting, I get it alot also on the 24-105 while using a CPL.

Thanks again!

J


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## J.R. (May 1, 2013)

Hobby Shooter said:


> J.R. said:
> 
> 
> > You can always stack the ND and the CPL. I've tried with the Hoya ND8 and the CPL on the 24-105 in the past but the vignetting at focal lengths under 30mm was terrible. It might help if the CPL is a slim filter.
> ...



Shooting into the sun with stacked filters not of the best quality might also give you some pretty bad flare and ghosting (I guess you already know that ). Check out this "test" shot I made with the Hoya ND8 to check the optical effects of the filter while shooting into the setting sun (the Hoya ND8 is strictly middle range, neither the best, nor the worst filter out there). 

I finally made the decision to go in for the LEE filter system and things are way much better.


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## Hobby Shooter (May 1, 2013)

J.R. said:


> Hobby Shooter said:
> 
> 
> > J.R. said:
> ...


I suspected there will be issues as that, but wasn't certain about what effect will show, I am only a moderatly good amateur  with not so much experience. I've shot into the sun before but never with stacked filters like this, This will be my first try with long exposures, but it'll be fun to experiment and learn some new stuff. As it gets darker I'll probably take the CPL off and just use the grey filter and then maybe no filter at all when the sun has set. If there is no overcast then the moon should come in play also.

Thanks for your input, much appreciated.
J


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## shutterwideshut (May 1, 2013)

Hobby Shooter said:


> Hey, I'm in Asia so it's morning here. Later today, I will try long exposure for the first time. I went to pick up a grey filter last week, but they only had 3-stop filters. I only picked up one and didn't give it more thought. Now having read up a bit on it, I see that I would probably need more. I won't by another filter today so my question to you is the following, can I stack a CPL to the grey filter?



I presume the grey filter that you are referring to might be the Neutral Density Filter. If you are aiming to blur movement, a 3 stop ND filter has little effect unless you shoot in low light. A better investment should have been at least a 4 stop ND filter and/or a 10 stop ND filter. For this reason, stacking filters is the method that I usually apply to exploit cloud and water movements in not so low light condition. To give you some idea, here are some of my shots using the stacked filter method:

*The day I saw the sun*
Canon EOS 5D Mark III ı Canon TS-E24mm f/3.5L II ı Lee 1.2 ND Filter ı Singh Ray LB Warming Polarizer ı Lee 0.9 Soft ND Grad Filter ı 24mm ı 10s ı f/16 ı ISO 100



The day I saw the sun by shutterwideshut on Flickr

*The pavilion in black & white*
Canon EOS 5D Mark III ı Canon TS-E24mm f/3.5L II ı Lee Big Stopper ı Lee 0.9 Soft ND Grad Filter ı Singh Ray LB Warming Polarizer ı 24mm ı 204s ı f/8 ı ISO 100



The pavilion in black & white by shutterwideshut on Flickr

*Dusk over Quezon Island*
Canon EOS 5D Mark III ı Canon EF24-70mm f/2.8L II USM ı Lee 1.2 ND Filter ı Lee 0.9 Soft ND Grad Filter ı Singh Ray LB Warming Polarizer ı 24mm ı 20s ı f/8 ı ISO 200



Dusk over Quezon Island by shutterwideshut on Flickr

*Nature's Breath*
Canon EOS 5D Mark III ı Canon TS-E24mm f/3.5L II ı Singh Ray 0.9 Reverse ND Grad Filter ı Singh Ray LB Warming Polarizer ı 24mm ı 15s ı f/8 ı ISO 100



Nature's Breath by shutterwideshut on Flickr



Hobby Shooter said:


> I will anyway give it a try, but are there any particular things I need to look out for?



Pre-compose without the filter and shoot in manual focus. Use the live view for precise focussing and the Mirror Lock Up method. Shoot in RAW format to have flexibility later in post to deal with color cast(if there is any). : And most of all, don't forget your remote cable release and tripod.  Shooting long exposure is fun.  Good luck. Cheers.


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## J.R. (May 1, 2013)

shutterwideshut said:


> Hobby Shooter said:
> 
> 
> > Hey, I'm in Asia so it's morning here. Later today, I will try long exposure for the first time. I went to pick up a grey filter last week, but they only had 3-stop filters. I only picked up one and didn't give it more thought. Now having read up a bit on it, I see that I would probably need more. I won't by another filter today so my question to you is the following, can I stack a CPL to the grey filter?
> ...



Nice images ... particularly the third one where the colors are excellent. 

Pre-composing without the filter is a good idea but it creates problems when a zoom lens is being used as the zoom will be affected while screwing in the filter - might throw off the focus by a bit. 

Cheers ... J.R.


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## Hobby Shooter (May 1, 2013)

shutterwideshut said:


> Hobby Shooter said:
> 
> 
> > Hey, I'm in Asia so it's morning here. Later today, I will try long exposure for the first time. I went to pick up a grey filter last week, but they only had 3-stop filters. I only picked up one and didn't give it more thought. Now having read up a bit on it, I see that I would probably need more. I won't by another filter today so my question to you is the following, can I stack a CPL to the grey filter?
> ...


Hi, yes correct, I mean ND filter. Unfortunately they didn't have any darker filters than that so that's the situation I'm in. I will just take it from there. 

Thanks for the tip about composing. RAW yes doing it already and post in LR4. Tripod check and remote cable release check ;D

It'll be fun to try something new and see what come out of it. I really like your pictures!

J.R, I will shoot with both zooms and a prime, I'll try a few different approaches to get the focus right.

Thanks for the tips!
J


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## Q8-MC (May 1, 2013)

Hobby Shooter said:


> Hey, I'm in Asia so it's morning here. Later today, I will try long exposure for the first time. I went to pick up a grey filter last week, but they only had 3-stop filters. I only picked up one and didn't give it more thought. Now having read up a bit on it, I see that I would probably need more. I won't by another filter today so my question to you is the following, can I stack a CPL to the grey filter?
> 
> I will anyway give it a try, but are there any particular things I need to look out for?




The best brand for ND filters is Lee. There are different kinds of ND Filters such as Big Stopper, ND soft, ND hard and the natural ND.

Canon 5D Mklll 120 sec ƒ/13 ISO100 17mm. Lee Big Stopper Plus Lee Sunset 2




fire With fire by q8-mc, on Flickr

Canon 5D Mklll 200 sec ƒ/22 ISO50 24mm > Lee Big Stopper




Soft Day by q8-mc, on Flickr

Canon 5D Mklll 220 sec ƒ/22 ISO50 17mm . Lee Big Stopper




Motion by q8-mc, on Flickr


If you want to do a motion for clouds in the mid of the day, the Lee Big Stopper will help you to do it.
Sorry about my poor English
Good Luck


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## Hobby Shooter (May 1, 2013)

Q8-MC said:


> Hobby Shooter said:
> 
> 
> > Hey, I'm in Asia so it's morning here. Later today, I will try long exposure for the first time. I went to pick up a grey filter last week, but they only had 3-stop filters. I only picked up one and didn't give it more thought. Now having read up a bit on it, I see that I would probably need more. I won't by another filter today so my question to you is the following, can I stack a CPL to the grey filter?
> ...


Hi, first of all, very nice pictures. I hope I can get close to that some day.

Thanks for the tip about the Lee stoppers. I see this as a starting point, if I enjoy it and want to take it further I will most likely have to do some investments in filters to get better results. I'll see what comes out of this to start with.

thanks
J


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## shutterwideshut (May 1, 2013)

J.R. said:


> Nice images ... particularly the third one where the colors are excellent.
> 
> Pre-composing without the filter is a good idea but it creates problems when a zoom lens is being used as the zoom will be affected while screwing in the filter - might throw off the focus by a bit.
> 
> Cheers ... J.R.



Thanks for the compliments. What you are saying about the problems when a lens is zoomed while screwing in the filter might throw off the focus is valid and I do agree.  I have to elaborate though that the reason I pre-compose before mounting any filter is to meter and know what is the current shutter speed to properly expose the scene without the filter so that it will be easier for me to compute precisely how much shutter speed do I need to properly expose especially when using a 10 stop ND filter + 4 stop ND filter + CPL. I use the drop in filters for easier stacking and shoot on the widest end of a zoom lens to overcome the issue throwing off the focus when zooming in. Cheers! 



Hobby Shooter said:


> Hi, yes correct, I mean ND filter. Unfortunately they didn't have any darker filters than that so that's the situation I'm in. I will just take it from there.
> 
> Thanks for the tip about composing. RAW yes doing it already and post in LR4. Tripod check and remote cable release check ;D
> 
> ...



Thanks. If you have difficulties buying locally then why not consider buying online such as e-bay? Lee, B+W and Singh Ray are filters that I suggest you look into. But Singh-Ray and Lee filters are pricey but worth the investment. The Lee Big Stopper(10 stop ND filter) is now very rare and very expensive in ebay although I know some stores here in Singapore that sell this filter at a very reasonable price. Singh-Ray, on the other hand, has the variable ND filter which you can change the shutter speed between 4 & 8 stops. The only thing is you have to buy this stuff directly on their online store. Nevertheless, Singh Ray's customer service is superb.


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## Hobby Shooter (May 1, 2013)

shutterwideshut said:


> J.R. said:
> 
> 
> > Nice images ... particularly the third one where the colors are excellent.
> ...


OK, thanks for the gear tip. I am actually moving back to Europe in a few weeks and will hold any further investments until getting back. Also, this is a first try and I will see if I get hooked, looking at your pictures and if I could at least get close to that, I am sure I will be.

We have some beautiful landscape areas with creeks and a big lake close to our summer house. I'll likely continue to practice there before I'd go all in on more gear for this area.

Interesting comment about how you meter. You're on a quite advanced level. I have a lot to learn just starting out with it. I checked out a couple of videos and will shoot in AV and let the camera give me the shutter speed. It's a start and I don't want too much to think about.

Again, many thanks for all the info.

J


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## shutterwideshut (May 1, 2013)

Hobby Shooter said:


> OK, thanks for the gear tip. I am actually moving back to Europe in a few weeks and will hold any further investments until getting back. Also, this is a first try and I will see if I get hooked, looking at your pictures and if I could at least get close to that, I am sure I will be.
> 
> We have some beautiful landscape areas with creeks and a big lake close to our summer house. I'll likely continue to practice there before I'd go all in on more gear for this area.
> 
> ...



Good luck. You are blessed to have those potential subjects around you. Make do first with what you have and shoot in the golden hour/blue hour for optimum results. Long exposure photography is indeed a very interesting genre. As you already shoot in RAW, I also suggest you shoot in either MANUAL or BULB mode for more flexiblity as you don't have enough control of the shutter speed in Av mode. The key to long exposure photography is controlling your shutter speed but watching out with your aperture as well. Also, set your ISO as low as possible. Long exposure may also result in high noise(even at ISO 100) and this you'll have to find out yourself as you get along.  Vignetting is also another issue but this can be addressed easily in LR or PS.


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## J.R. (May 1, 2013)

shutterwideshut said:


> J.R. said:
> 
> 
> > Nice images ... particularly the third one where the colors are excellent.
> ...



Agree ... I do the metering the same way - meter using the camera, attach the filter and work back the required number of stops for shutter speed and shoot in BULB mode if the exposure is over 30 seconds. 

I guess shooting long exposures will be easier for me with my LEE Big Stopper arriving this Friday. Using the filter holder system is considerably easier than the screw in filters. 

BTW, if you do intend to order online at B&H, waiting for an email notification is pointless. The filters run out of stock within a few hours of being displayed as "in stock" on the website and getting a notification and placing an order successfully is next to impossible. I just happened to hit it lucky last week.


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## J.R. (May 1, 2013)

shutterwideshut said:


> Hobby Shooter said:
> 
> 
> > OK, thanks for the gear tip. I am actually moving back to Europe in a few weeks and will hold any further investments until getting back. Also, this is a first try and I will see if I get hooked, looking at your pictures and if I could at least get close to that, I am sure I will be.
> ...



+1


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## Hobby Shooter (May 1, 2013)

shutterwideshut said:


> Hobby Shooter said:
> 
> 
> > OK, thanks for the gear tip. I am actually moving back to Europe in a few weeks and will hold any further investments until getting back. Also, this is a first try and I will see if I get hooked, looking at your pictures and if I could at least get close to that, I am sure I will be.
> ...


Hi, back now. I captured 24 pictures during a 75 minute period. I had good help of a friend who is also an enthusiast like me but has some more experience. I will process and post at least one of them by tomorrow. 

I am very grateful for yours and J.R.'s advice, it's really helped me. Not sure the result will reflect that though  - All I know is that it was fun and I already have plenty of ideas of where I want to try this again and under which circumstances.

Thanks alot guys!
J


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## shutterwideshut (May 1, 2013)

Hobby Shooter said:


> Hi, back now. I captured 24 pictures during a 75 minute period. I had good help of a friend who is also an enthusiast like me but has some more experience. I will process and post at least one of them by tomorrow.
> 
> I am very grateful for yours and J.R.'s advice, it's really helped me. Not sure the result will reflect that though  - All I know is that it was fun and I already have plenty of ideas of where I want to try this again and under which circumstances.
> 
> ...



You're welcome! Keep shooting!


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## cayenne (May 1, 2013)

Hobby Shooter said:


> shutterwideshut said:
> 
> 
> > Hobby Shooter said:
> ...



Yes, please post your images...anxious to look at them!!

C


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## cayenne (May 1, 2013)

Yes, please post your images...anxious to look at them!!

C


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## Hobby Shooter (May 2, 2013)

Alright, here we go. It did not come out as I expected which I guess is a good thing. I haven't processed all pictures yet, but I pulled this one to show you guys. I clearly need to practice using Bulb mode.

This picture is taken with a 5D3, 24-105mm, ISO100, 73mm, f/22 and 30sec exposure, with Bulb I could (should) have gotten a longer exposure. A lot of banding and noise (not unexpected). This shot is taken to the west, away from the setting (actually already set) sun. Will post one of those taken into the sun later also. Downsized to sub 2MB for upload here.

Good fun and a lot of learning, this forum at its best. I'll continue to practice this fun technique.

Thanks to all of you guys.
J


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## shutterwideshut (May 2, 2013)

Try applying the 6400 rule. That means 1s at ISO 6400 = 1 min at ISO 100. Nice first attempt on long exposure. Here's one ultra long daytime exposure I'm sharing with you. Cheers! 

*Déjà vu*
Canon EOS 5D Mark III ı Canon EF17-40mm f/4L USM ı Hoya R72 IR Filter ı 17mm ı 239s ı f/8 ı ISO 100



Déjà vu by shutterwideshut on Flickr


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## Hobby Shooter (May 2, 2013)

Hey, thanks for the words. It's a start, I know they are sub par, but as I've said, it's a starting point and I know I have a lot of work to do.

Thanks for the tip about the 6400 rule, I will read up on more about how to calculate exposures and try to settle for a few basic pointers that I can keep in my head while doing it, which eventually becomes instinct as one gets more experienced.

It's a great pic you posted there, perfect sharpness and the sky is very nice.

I found it very difficult to focus manually, I can't see well enough to nail the focus, I will need to work around that somehow.

Please see another one of the pics from yesterday, it is taken into the setting sun just after it has settled below the buildings. To the left is the famous Independence Monument of Phnom Penh and in the centre is the PM's mansion.

My pictures have very little artistic value at this point, they are work in progress and I feel motivated to learn more. Hopefully I'll be able to post some good stuff here eventually 

thanks
J


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## Rienzphotoz (May 2, 2013)

J.R. said:


> I finally made the decision to go in for the LEE filter system and things are way much better.


I know you were the only person who got the LEE big stopper from B&H recently, so stop making the rest of us jealous ;D


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## J.R. (May 2, 2013)

Rienzphotoz said:


> J.R. said:
> 
> 
> > I finally made the decision to go in for the LEE filter system and things are way much better.
> ...



Ha ha ... but I must correct you, I was one of the two CR members who got the Big Stopper. There was another CR member who saw my post the other day!


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## paul13walnut5 (May 2, 2013)

This sounds like a job for 'the photographers ephemeris'

What you need to do is use the above app to show you when the 'magic hour' is, and where you need to set up to be facing towards the trajectory of the sun just after it has set.

Filters will give you more exposure options in terms of duration, but unless you use an ND grad they won't help with bringing the sky and foreground within contrast range do you have detail in both.

For this kind of shot a good guide is to use 'lighting up time' i.e when the streetlights come on. This is usually dusk, so buildings will be illuminated and car lamps on.

Then its a waiting game. You don't need 30s for the efffect you seek. 10 would be ample, even 5s with a bust road in the foreground. Although using a cpl will give you say a 10s exposure where the camera is metering 3s.

You'e over filtered or left it too late and so lost the detail in the sky.

Google 'tpe' its free for your desktop and available at a very modest cost for smartphones and its the landscapers best friend.

Good luck!


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## Hobby Shooter (May 2, 2013)

paul13walnut5 said:


> This sounds like a job for 'the photographers ephemeris'
> 
> What you need to do is use the above app to show you when the 'magic hour' is, and where you need to set up to be facing towards the trajectory of the sun just after it has set.
> 
> ...


Paul, thanks for the input. I checked the app out and will download it and try it out. As I'm moving back to Europe in a few weeks I will wait with getting the paid for smart phone app until I get settled there. It's for responses like this and from the other guys that I posted here and dared to expose myself. 

Yes, I thought of the graduated filter also as the foreground was so dark and the sky much lighter. I was definitely over filtered a little later in the session, but we had a couple of beers and kept chatting so we lost track of time and things to do (clearly I'm not a pro but doing it for fun). I took the CPL off, but should have probably also taken the grey filter off also. It's a learning process and I will keep trying. I lack a lot of fundamental knowledge of photography as it's a hobby I have taken up only the last few years so I am still adding that.

On the other hand, there are a couple of areas I feel quite comfortable with that I have done more of. Now I am trying to learn a new technique to have some fun with.

Big thanks for your advise! 

cheers
J


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## shutterwideshut (May 2, 2013)

Hobby Shooter said:


> Hey, thanks for the words. It's a start, I know they are sub par, but as I've said, it's a starting point and I know I have a lot of work to do.


All of us start from scratch and I, myself, is also an amateur just like you. Photography is just my hobby and passion although I occasionally get some proceeds from Getty Images.  We learn each day and practice is our friend.  



Hobby Shooter said:


> Thanks for the tip about the 6400 rule, I will read up on more about how to calculate exposures and try to settle for a few basic pointers that I can keep in my head while doing it, which eventually becomes instinct as one gets more experienced.



The 6400 rule is very easy. It is simply [email protected] [email protected] [email protected][email protected] [email protected] 400 and so on. If you have basic understanding with exposure, it is easy to grasp actually. This method helps you figure out exposure especially if you are struggling on which shutter speed to use.



Hobby Shooter said:


> I found it very difficult to focus manually, I can't see well enough to nail the focus, I will need to work around that somehow.


Focus manually in liveview and zoom in for more precision. You should meter on the foreground, about 1/3 of the frame.



Hobby Shooter said:


> Please see another one of the pics from yesterday, it is taken into the setting sun just after it has settled below the buildings. To the left is the famous Independence Monument of Phnom Penh and in the centre is the PM's mansion.
> 
> My pictures have very little artistic value at this point, they are work in progress and I feel motivated to learn more. Hopefully I'll be able to post some good stuff here eventually
> 
> ...


The sky in the your image is amazing and so are the light trails. But the foreground is underexposed. You can overcome this by using an ND grad filter(as what have Paul mentioned already earlier) or by exposure bracketing then merging it later in the post via HDR or you should have waited a little bit later for the twilight wherein the light in the sky and foreground is about the same. Well, it's also about planning and scouting the location before shooting. The Photographer's Ephemeris is one good app for planning and figuring out the sun's position/golden hour/blue hour timings. Other options would be the Helios and LighTrac. Here are some of my examples using the ND grad filter method to enhance the cloud movement at twilight and HDR technique at times when I decide not to use any filter:

*20.12.2012*
Canon EOS 5D Mark III ı Canon EF17-40mm f/4L USM ı Lee 0.3 Soft ND Grad Filter ı 17mm ı 30s ı f/14 ı ISO 100



20.12.2012 by shutterwideshut on Flickr

*Memories of Kuala Lumpur*
Canon EOS 7D ı Canon EFS10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM ı Three exposures at 10mm, f/14 & ISO 100



Memories of Kuala Lumpur by shutterwideshut on Flickr


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## Mick (May 5, 2013)

A daylight shot with Lees big stopper.


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## DIABLO (May 11, 2013)

Looking to do more landscape photography. Shooting with a 60d at the moment and looking to buy a 17-40 in a few days. Will be moving to full frame soon so the EFS 10-17 is out for me. 

As far as filters go I'm looking at Singh Ray and Lee. The warming filter and ND reverse filter for starters. 

The 17-40 is 77mm thread, so do I need to get the regular screw in filter and screw in adaptor ring to stack filters that way? Or will this cause vignetting?


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## Hobby Shooter (May 11, 2013)

DIABLO said:


> Looking to do more landscape photography. Shooting with a 60d at the moment and looking to buy a 17-40 in a few days. Will be moving to full frame soon so the EFS 10-17 is out for me.
> 
> As far as filters go I'm looking at Singh Ray and Lee. The warming filter and ND reverse filter for starters.
> 
> The 17-40 is 77mm thread, so do I need to get the regular screw in filter and screw in adaptor ring to stack filters that way? Or will this cause vignetting?


The filters I got, I can just stack them on each other, no adaptor rings or similar. Vignetting, yes in the wide end. I had some serious vignetting at 24 on my 24-105. I had only two filters stacked. 

thanks
J


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## shutterwideshut (May 11, 2013)

DIABLO said:


> As far as filters go I'm looking at Singh Ray and Lee. The warming filter and ND reverse filter for starters.



If you are looking into stacking filters then the good combo to consider for a start would be: Cokin Z-Pro Holder + Singh Ray LB Warming Polarizer(Z sprocket mount) + 0.9 Singh Ray Reverse ND Grad Filter. For the record, Lee doesn't produce any Reverse ND Grad. 

And yes, there will be vignetting at focal lengths wider than 24mm on FF. 

Watch this comparison by Landscape Photographer Darwin Wigett to know the reason why you should consider the Cokin Z-Pro Holder instead of the Lee Filter: http://darwinwiggett.wordpress.com/2011/06/28/lee-holder-vs-cokin-z-pro-holder/


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## DIABLO (May 11, 2013)

Hobby Shooter said:


> DIABLO said:
> 
> 
> > Looking to do more landscape photography. Shooting with a 60d at the moment and looking to buy a 17-40 in a few days. Will be moving to full frame soon so the EFS 10-17 is out for me.
> ...





At what mm do vignetting start? And what filters are you using.


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## DIABLO (May 11, 2013)

shutterwideshut said:


> DIABLO said:
> 
> 
> > As far as filters go I'm looking at Singh Ray and Lee. The warming filter and ND reverse filter for starters.
> ...



I've read on another forum that the 77mm thin mount warming filter doesn't cause vignetting? But it doesn't have front threads though. And will probably cause uneven polarization as will.


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## shutterwideshut (May 11, 2013)

DIABLO said:


> Hobby Shooter said:
> 
> 
> > DIABLO said:
> ...


I use both the Lee Filter and SIngh Ray Filter System. At focal lengths wider than 24mm on FF, vignetting will start but this can be corrected easily on PP. Here are some of my filter combinations for shooting long exposure:

*Sundown at Lingayen Gulf*
Canon EOS 5D Mark III ı Canon EF24-70mm f/2.8L II USM ı Singh Ray 0.9 Reverse ND Grad Filter ı Singh Ray LB Warming Polarizer ı 24mm ı 13s ı f/16 ı ISO 100



Sundown at Lingayen Gulf by shutterwideshut on Flickr


*Symmetry*
Canon EOS 5D Mark III ı Canon TS-E24mm f/3.5L II ı Lee Big Stopper ı Lee 0.9 Soft ND Grad Filter ı Singh Ray LB Warming Polarizer ı 24mm ı 170s ı f/8 ı ISO 100



Symmetry by [shutterwideshut] on Flickr

At 10mm on a cropped sensor camera, vignetting is obvious but I don't mind though:
*Another day ends*
Canon EOS 7D ı Canon EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM ı Lee 0.9 Soft ND Grad Filter ı Lee Big Stopper ı 10mm ı 79s ı f/8 ı ISO 200



Another day ends by [shutterwideshut] on Flickr


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## bycostello (May 28, 2013)

love my 10 stop filter


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