# Lee landscape polariser on Canon 17mm TS-E



## mjg79 (Aug 9, 2017)

Has anyone tried Lee's landscape polariser, thinner than the normal one, on a Canon 17mm TS-E lens using the Lee 17mm adapter and the 105mm polariser ring attachment?

Lee's website is ambiguous regarding the hard vignette - they refer to it being an issue when using Lee's 105mm polariser ring but I can't work out if that only applies to the normal polariser (I've seen examples with that one - it causes a hard cut off in the extreme corners). Elsewhere on their website they claim the landscape polariser won't cause a vignette on 16 and 17mm lenses. (Obviously I realise shifting will be very limited even if it does work).

Obviously Lee's stuff is quite expensive for buying just to try so thought I would see if anyone here had tried this particular combination.


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## neuroanatomist (Aug 9, 2017)

Tangential answer: no, I haven't tried the Lee, but I've had good results with the WonderPana 145mm setup for my TS-E 17.


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## mjg79 (Aug 9, 2017)

neuroanatomist said:


> Tangential answer: no, I haven't tried the Lee, but I've had good results with the WonderPana 145mm setup for my TS-E 17.



I've heard a lot of good things about that system so will perhaps check it out one day. It's just having invested plenty in the Lee 100mm system I have been content to use it on my 17mm TS-E as I can still get about half the shift which is normally enough but it is frustrating not having a polariser for water surfaces etc. 

Another option I have is of course to buy a 100x100 square polariser to use in the Lee foundation kit and accept that when using GND filters the polariser could only be turned 90 degrees at a time.


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## Jopa (Aug 9, 2017)

I'm not sure if it helps, the 150mm adapter vignettes at about 12-13mm on the 11-24. Theoretically if you go with the 150mm it should work for your 17mm if you shoot straight (no T or S).


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## mjg79 (Aug 10, 2017)

Jopa said:


> I'm not sure if it helps, the 150mm adapter vignettes at about 12-13mm on the 11-24. Theoretically if you go with the 150mm it should work for your 17mm if you shoot straight (no T or S).



Yes I realise any 150 system will be better and allow full shifting though to my surprise on the Lee website it doesn't list the 17mm TS-E as having an adapter to use the SW150 system. Or perhaps you can use the same adapter as they designed for the 100mm system. For now I think I'll soldier on with 100mm filters as I already have many.

With more and more lenses coming out wider that 16mm though it will be interesting to see if more manufacturers start offering extreme solutions.


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## groversunil47 (Aug 23, 2017)

The Best option  is of course to buy a 100x100 square polariser to use in the Lee foundation kit and accept that when using GND filters the polariser could only be turned 90 degrees at a time.


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## ahsanford (Sep 12, 2017)

Directly from their website using their System Match tool, see attached. The quote's not easy to read, but it says "Allows approx. half of total movements. 105mm polariser can be used but some cut off present." Also, some pics from the 17mm ring itself. Seems a clever hack to get the 17 T/S into the main system without having to step up to the bigger SW150 setup.

Unless someone has posted a specific test of a lens + filter combo (plus any 4x4 / 4x6 holder slots in between the CPL and lens) or it's so popular that the company is inundated with questions so that they must make specific materials for it (i.e. Nikkor 14-24), you likely need to buy/rent it and test it yourself. Here's a basic roadmap for how to check it that I did on the 16-35 f/4L IS.

My read on your situation with the standard 100mm Lee system: FF + wider than 20mm, the wheels start to come off the bus depending on how much you are stacking on there and the specifics of the lens design. You may not mind cloning out small dark bits in corners or ever-so-slightly cropping your frame to deal with the odd (mechanical stuff in frame) vignetting, but it's a painful limitation for some folks.

But there are other options for you:

1) If all you need is a CPL, get one as thin as possible and get as close as possible to the front element -- so +1 to the 4x4 square polarizer move.

2) If you want to stack anything besides the CPL and/or make large T/S adjustments, the 100mm ecosystem will likely let you down. My prior thread above (on testing) would imply that two slots + CPL would zero out your T/S movements and cause you crop down to 20mm or so. So if you need to stack stuff, look into compatibility with the SW150 II, Wonderpana, NiSi, etc.

- A


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