# How to get eyes tack sharp?



## Jack56 (Aug 2, 2014)

Been in Shetland and made a lot of photos of puffins. Not every eye is tack sharp. What am I doing wrong. I use Al Servo, sometimes One shot and the 61 AF points. Select AF area selection mode: they are all choosen (I know this is not well explained, sorry).
I made photos of cows and again difficult to frame the eyes sharp. So, I do something wrong. But what?
I use the mark5dIII.


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## John (Aug 2, 2014)

Use a single AF point and focus directly on the eyes. In single AF mode you can move the AF point around to place it exactly where you want it. I only use a single AF point to focus on a subject.


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## BL (Aug 2, 2014)

Taking pictures of birds? Could be your shutter speed. Sometimes spot AF works better if your target is something as small as a bird's eye.


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## Jack56 (Aug 2, 2014)

Thanks for your replies. I tried this (with the eye of my wife  ). It works. But I can't with Al Servo. So when the birds moving, how does it work? Moving the camera?


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## John (Aug 2, 2014)

I always use a single AF point with moving objects on AI Servo. i often shoot at f/2, thus i shoot with a very small DOF that is often only a few inches. there is no way you can reliably spot on the eye of a moving subject (e.g., bird, soccer player, etc.) . if possible, try to spot on the head or a body part that is on the same plane as the eye. most of my shots result in sharp faces and sharp eyes. but there are always some that aren't sharp and there isn't much you can do about it except apply sharpening to the eyes in LR or PS. if i shoot sports, then there is no way to always get the eyes sharp since i might be focusing on an arm that is outstretched during the action or on a part of the trunk with the head forward or bent backwards. Try taking a lot of photos in burst mode and you should have at least one that meets your criteria for sharpness. It takes practice to get the AF point on the right spot of a moving subject in order to get the eyes sharp.


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## BL (Aug 2, 2014)

Jack56 said:


> Thanks for your replies. I tried this (with the eye of my wife  ). It works. But I can't with Al Servo. So when the birds moving, how does it work? Moving the camera?



I dont shoot BIF, but are you capturing enough DOF for your shots?

I can't explain why servo doesn't nail focus while one shot does for you, especially for a shot of your wife's eye who I presume is sitting/standing still. I have been shooting AI Servo day one since I got my camera (1D) - never once used One Shot after extensive testing found the AF results to be identical for still subjects.


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## jdramirez (Aug 2, 2014)

John said:


> Use a single AF point and focus directly on the eyes. In single AF mode you can move the AF point around to place it exactly where you want it. I only use a single AF point to focus on a subject.



Bigger depth of field also helps.


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## AprilForever (Aug 2, 2014)

Bird Photography is my main area: post some pictures, and the settings also, and I will likely be able to tell you what went wrong.


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## wtlloyd (Aug 2, 2014)

John said:


> Use a single AF point and focus directly on the eyes. In single AF mode you can move the AF point around to place it exactly where you want it. I only use a single AF point to focus on a subject.



This. If you don't put the AF point where you want it, the camera can't do it for you.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Aug 3, 2014)

In AI Servo, the shutter will close when you push the button, in focus or not. You can change your settings to require that good focus is achieved, but single shot will not open the shutter unless its in focus.

You have to be careful in AI servo, because you cannot tell if focus was actually achieved.


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## Keith_Reeder (Aug 3, 2014)

Jack56 said:


> Been in Shetland and made a lot of photos of puffins. Not every eye is tack sharp. What am I doing wrong?



Did you actually have the active AF point on the eye every time?

Puffins are easy to approach, meaning no need for long focal lengths: unless you're using a small aperture, focusing on the body rather than the eye can be enough to have the eye outside of the depth of field if the bird is at close range.

Example images - with Exif - would help.


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## mackguyver (Aug 3, 2014)

Have you calibrated your lens(es) and 5DIII with AFMA? Also, it's tough unless you're shooting at f/4 or above.


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## rpt (Aug 3, 2014)

You have some great responses here. First ensure AFMA is done. Next read the following. Although it says 1dx, it applies to 5d3 too.
http://cpn.canon-europe.com/files/education/technical/eos_1d_x_explained/AF_guide_EOS-1DX_eng.pdf
http://www.grantatkinson.com/blog/understanding-canon-eos-1dx-autofocus-firmware-ver-2-0-3


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