# Tilt-shift techniques and lenses



## stevelee (Apr 1, 2020)

I'm starting this for at least a couple of us (and anybody else who wants to join in) to share some thoughts and experiences on using tilt-shift lenses. I hijacked a thread showing pictures of waterfalls, starting with posting a faux Ansel Adams picture of a fountain in my neighborhood I made with the 24 mm TS-E, in lieu of a trip to Yosemite. So we can continue that drift here instead. And people who can get to real waterfalls can post in that thread.


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## stevelee (Apr 1, 2020)

From my Sunday post:

I am renting the TS-E 24mm lens, so in trying to learn how to use it, I decided on trying to try to do a poor man's Ansel Adams shot. I have gained a bit more appreciation for all the effort he had to put into shooting in the first place, not to mention all the darkroom stuff he did that we can now do in software mostly.

Since a quick trip to Yosemite is impractical for me at the best of times, I walked about two blocks in my neighborhood to a park with a little fountain and some rocks. I like this well enough that I hope to do a better black-and-white conversion (probably in ACR) and print it out. I didn't use a long shutter speed as I might with a real waterfall, since I was more interested in how sharp the water might look. So far I have been focusing the lens on something near, and then using the tilt to make a distant point also in focus. It was too light out for me to use live view conveniently, so I didn't bother, just doing a test. I shot this at f/8 for several reasons, one being that I don't know at what point diffraction would become noticeable. I might have got it sharper at f/11, or maybe not.


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## stevelee (Apr 1, 2020)

And earlier today:

I am wondering whether I would want to try the 17 mm version. I'm already running out of things to try with the 24mm, short of traveling which is currently impractical. Yesterday I did a head-on shot of a mirror in which I and the camera are invisible. That's pretty neat. I watched a guy's video of his trying faux Adams shots. He was using a 16–35 mm lens. In reality, I could used my 16–35 mm lens for many of the same things. On his view cameras, Adams' lenses would translate into 30 mm to 60 mm in our FF world. Optically they are much longer, of course, so depth-of-field was more of an issue, though also diffraction from stopping down was less of one.


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## stevelee (Apr 1, 2020)

My selfie in the mirror in my foyer. Through the magic of the lens, I have achieved invisibility.


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## stevelee (Apr 1, 2020)

> privatebydesign said:
> The thing with TS-E lenses is they are unique in their capabilities, but if you understand what they are actually doing it isn’t magic. For instance all shift functionality can be exactly replicated with a wider lens and a crop, so the real value of these lenses is tilt and image quality.
> 
> Since getting the 11-24 I use my TS-E17 less because if I can get the image I need with a modest crop it is much faster to just use the zoom.


It was supposed to be raining today, so I had not planned to get out taking pictures. If it doesn't seem even about to rain, I may go out. I'm thinking about playing with the lens on my cheap extension tubes here at home. I won't be able to stop down the lens because of no electrical connection to the camera, so the tilt will be the only way to get more of the subject in focus in a single shot. (I do have a rail and have tried stacking, but I want to see what can be done without that.) I am thinking about getting some better extension tubes, but am wondering if any of the third-party ones work well enough to mess with.

I'm wondering what I would do with a longer TS lens. Is their main use like product photography in macro and near-macro situations?

Since the 6D2 has more resolution than I need for most purposes and the 16–35 mm lens is really great, cropping from a wide lens is very practical for me.


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## cayenne (Apr 1, 2020)

stevelee said:


> It was supposed to be raining today, so I had not planned to get out taking pictures. If it doesn't seem even about to rain, I may go out. I'm thinking about playing with the lens on my cheap extension tubes here at home. I won't be able to stop down the lens because of no electrical connection to the camera, so the tilt will be the only way to get more of the subject in focus in a single shot. (I do have a rail and have tried stacking, but I want to see what can be done without that.) I am thinking about getting some better extension tubes, but am wondering if any of the third-party ones work well enough to mess with.
> 
> I'm wondering what I would do with a longer TS lens. Is their main use like product photography in macro and near-macro situations?
> 
> Since the 6D2 has more resolution than I need for most purposes and the 16–35 mm lens is really great, cropping from a wide lens is very practical for me.



Interesting...I have been planning to rent and play with one of the Canon TS lenses. For some reason I thought they were full manual lenses, in that not only was focus manual but I thought aperture was also manual....after reading your post, I look around and description says it has something called EMD aperture..."electro magnetic diaphragm"...

Interesting, I'd have thought this thing would have been 100% manual.....

C


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## Valvebounce (Apr 1, 2020)

Hi Steve.
I have a set just like this in black and silver, don’t be fooled, the barrels are some form of plastic, possibly as complicated as engineering composite, but they are not metal, only the end caps are metal, I’m tempted to say that the silver finish on mine is chrome, it looks too bright for polished anodised aluminium. 
The body end of each tube has a full metal bayonet, the lens end has a metal face reinforcing the plastic receiver. 
I doubt they are as strong as the Canon version, but I have just had the 24-105 f/4L mounted on them and I think I used the 70-200 f/2.8 L II mounted on them previously, I have also had the 1DsIII hanging on the tubes on the back of my 100-400 L II when I was trying to work out which lenses worked with tubes and how well!

Net result, I like them for my occasional use (though they have been getting a lot of use over the last few days!) and they have full communication to the lens. I appreciate some will say they wouldn’t hang their expensive lenses on such cheap tubes, I’m not a pro and I’m not using them enough to justify Canon cost and if they drop a lens I’ll let you know! 

Cheers, Graham. 



stevelee said:


> I am thinking about getting some better extension tubes, but am wondering if any of the third-party ones work well enough to mess with.


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## Del Paso (Apr 1, 2020)

cayenne said:


> Interesting...I have been planning to rent and play with one of the Canon TS lenses. For some reason I thought they were full manual lenses, in that not only was focus manual but I thought aperture was also manual....after reading your post, I look around and description says it has something called EMD aperture..."electro magnetic diaphragm"...
> 
> Interesting, I'd have thought this thing would have been 100% manual.....
> 
> C


Aperture is not manual (metering full open).
Yet, the camera MUST be set on manual, because the exposition MUST be measured prior to shifting or tilting, and, of course, the lens focused as well.
But used like a conventional lens, AV or TV, P etc... programs can be used.
PS: the 24 is the sharpest of the 2 W.Angle TSE lenses, but both are yummy!


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## stevelee (Apr 1, 2020)

Del Paso said:


> Yet, the camera MUST be set on manual, because the exposition MUST be measured prior to shifting or tilting, and, of course, the lens focused as well.


When I took my first shots with the lens, I knew enough to set the aperture and shutter speed manually. But I forgot to change the ISO from Automatic, which will still work in M mode. So I got wildly over-exposed pictures. In one case I liked a picture after I did some exposure adjustments in ACR. The otherworldly look fits the oddity of having some near and distant things in focus but things blurry in intermediate as well as distant distances.


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## stevelee (Apr 1, 2020)

One of my first efforts was to use the shift to do a vertical panorama from my deck. The ground at the bottom of the photo is about 30 feet below me, and there area beyond dips even deeper. Of course the tree tops are high over my head. Lack of distortion in panoramas is obviously one of the reasons to use this lens. I didn't get the focus just right on all the shots. (I think I used 3 shots, 4 at most.) The lens had just been delivered, and I walked out on to the deck and didn't bother to use the tripod I took out with me, so I was mostly floundering around. Some time I'll try to do something similar with my 16–35 mm lens to see how that compares.


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## privatebydesign (Apr 2, 2020)

I just got the TS-E50 yesterday, haven't done anything meaningful with it yet but on initial testing it looks to be outrageously sharp and contrasty, I've owned the TS-E17 since it came out. I got this combo so I have the most focal length variability with TC's, I have both the 1.4 and 2x so essentially I have 17, 24, 34, 50, 70 and 100mm TS-E's, they both work very well with TC's and whilst nobody would argue the 17+1.4 TC is 'better' than the 24, the truth is if I can only have one the 17 gives me more flexibility.

One test shot I can share already, I was interested in the fov of the four square stitch from the 50, it is slightly wider than a 35mm but with two and half times the normal resolution of your sensor.



35mm prime fov.

50mm x 4 corner stitch fov.


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## privatebydesign (Apr 2, 2020)

Here is a quick handheld shot with swing at f2.8, the macro feature of the TS-E 50 is going to be very useful.


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## privatebydesign (Apr 2, 2020)

Here is a two shot horizontal shift pano at f5.6 and some tilt applied, crop is a 100% crop of the extreme bottom right corner with full shift! This lens is blindingly sharp.


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## Valvebounce (Apr 2, 2020)

Hi PBD. 
Wow, that is one thin slice of focus, and it looks to drop off real quick too! Well done on hand holding that.  

How many piece is that jigsaw and can we have a look when it is finished please? And yes, blindingly sharp ! 
I have been watching the TS-E 17mm second hand market for a while and unfortunately for me from what I see these things probably hold their resale value better than any other Canon lens! 

Cheers, Graham. 



privatebydesign said:


> Here is a quick handheld shot with swing at f2.8, the macro feature of the TS-E 50 is going to be very useful.


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## Valvebounce (Apr 2, 2020)

Hi PBD. 
By this do you mean, tilt up shift left, tilt down shift left, tilt down shift right, tilt up shift right?
Do you have to re-focus at each corner or focus in the straight position and then do the shifting?

Cheers, Graham. 



privatebydesign said:


> 50mm x 4 corner stitch fov.


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## privatebydesign (Apr 2, 2020)

Valvebounce said:


> Hi PBD.
> Wow, that is one thin slice of focus, and it looks to drop off real quick too! Well done on hand holding that.
> 
> How many piece is that jigsaw and can we have a look when it is finished please? And yes, blindingly sharp !
> ...


Hi Graham, it's 4,000 pieces and I'll happily take a picture of it when it's done!

The thing about the TS-E17 is that it is a fantastic lens for tight spaces, I paid for mine with my real estate work, but in truth the 24 is probably the better lens for most people to get, the reason is stitching is such an important ability of these lenses and the 17 really doesn't lend itself to that as the projection distortion when shifted is often too extreme, if my main use was landscapes I'd get the 24 and stitch anytime I wanted a wider fov. The IQ out of the 24 is higher and it takes regular filters, I have a comically mammoth Fotodiox filter kit for the TS-E17 and it really isn't practical or reasonably priced.



Valvebounce said:


> Hi PBD.
> By this do you mean, tilt up shift left, tilt down shift left, tilt down shift right, tilt up shift right?
> Do you have to re-focus at each corner or focus in the straight position and then do the shifting?
> 
> Cheers, Graham.


In the four corner pano there is no tilt so I didn't have to change that, the shift (and tilt) sections rotate and they have detents at 45º and 90º, if you stay at the 45º position the lens shifts outwards at that 45º, so shift one way and and get one corner, shift all the way in the other direction to get the second, then rotate the shift 90º and you can do the other two corners, the focus stays untouched too. It just takes a few seconds to do all four shots, but if you were using tilt at the same time then you would have to reset that between the two sets of two.


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## Del Paso (Apr 2, 2020)

privatebydesign said:


> Hi Graham, it's 4,000 pieces and I'll happily take a picture of it when it's done!
> 
> The thing about the TS-E17 is that it is a fantastic lens for tight spaces, I paid for mine with my real estate work, but in truth the 24 is probably the better lens for most people to get, the reason is stitching is such an important ability of these lenses and the 17 really doesn't lend itself to that as the projection distortion when shifted is often too extreme, if my main use was landscapes I'd get the 24 and stitch anytime I wanted a wider fov. The IQ out of the 24 is higher and it takes regular filters, I have a comically mammoth Fotodiox filter kit for the TS-E17 and it really isn't practical or reasonably priced.
> 
> ...


No need for a filter kit, just use the EOS R, plus the RF to EF filter adapter....


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## privatebydesign (Apr 2, 2020)

Del Paso said:


> No need for a filter kit, just use the EOS R, plus the RF to EF filter adapter....


And how does that work for your graduated filters? But by the by I have said here many times one of the main reasons I would be interested in a high MP R is that ability to filter via the adapter particularly as I use CPL’s more than anything else. I use the 15mm fisheye, the 11-24 and TS-E 17 so that is a major functionality improvement for me personally even if it is limited to CPL’s and ND’s,.


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## stevelee (Apr 3, 2020)

I went back out on the deck this afternoon and photographed the woods. This time I used shift on six (I think) axes and had Photoshop stitch pictures together. The reduced version here loses most of the punch and sharpness of the 87 MP result, maybe with a view like a 7 mm lens (?). I did adjust vignetting in ACR, but little else, and obviously didn't crop.




each shot f/10.0, 1/80 second, ISO 100

For you pixel peepers, here are 100% crops of the top and the lower left, to give you an idea of how well the lens does at its extremes.


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## stevelee (Apr 3, 2020)

Next I set up on the sidewalk in front of my house and took its picture. It looks like I didn't get the camera completely level and/or Photoshop didn't get the perspective right when stitching together. f/13, 1/100 second, ISO 100:




And a pixel peep 100% crop of the grass on the lower right:


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## privatebydesign (Apr 3, 2020)

Here is my contribution for today, a quick 'product' shot of an EF35mm f2 IS taken with the TS-E50, first one is no shift or tilt, second is with tilt and shift, both f5.6.


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## privatebydesign (Apr 3, 2020)

Here's one from the TS-E17,at f9.0, I love that the deck of the dock is pin sharp all the way through and that focus extends to the far shoreline, TS-E's take you from 'acceptably sharp' to pin point in focus, I don't understand why more landscape shooters don't use them, well I suppose I do, few people output to any kind of size nowadays.


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## privatebydesign (Apr 3, 2020)

And another from the TS-E17 at f10 again with tilt to control the focus through the picture, the cobweb was around 24 inches from the lens yet the trees in the fig are perfectly focused.


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## cayenne (Apr 3, 2020)

privatebydesign said:


> Here's one from the TS-E17,at f9.0, I love that the deck of the dock is pin sharp all the way through and that focus extends to the far shoreline, TS-E's take you from 'acceptably sharp' to pin point in focus, I don't understand why more landscape shooters don't use them, well I suppose I do, few people output to any kind of size nowadays.
> 
> View attachment 189570
> 
> ...




Do you by chance have any links to sites/videos explaining how doing the tilt/shift thing works for moving the plane of focus, etc?

I don't have a TS lens yet, but I do have a new MF View camera (6x17).....which has all the tilt and shift movements TS lens would have....so, I'm interested in learning the principals of this, how and why it works, etc.

When you are shooting this and tilting and shifting, are you just moving things around while you look through the viewfinder till it all looks good to your eye, or are there any distance measurements and formulaic calculations you would be using (too) ?

Thanks in advance,

C


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## Valvebounce (Apr 4, 2020)

Hi PBD. 
Thank you for the detailed response and recommendations.

Cheers, Graham. 



privatebydesign said:


> Hi Graham, it's 4,000 pieces and I'll happily take a picture of it when it's done!
> 
> The thing about the TS-E17 is that it is a fantastic lens for tight spaces, I paid for mine with my real estate work, but in truth the 24 is probably the better lens for most people to get, the reason is stitching is such an important ability of these lenses and the 17 really doesn't lend itself to that as the projection distortion when shifted is often too extreme, if my main use was landscapes I'd get the 24 and stitch anytime I wanted a wider fov. The IQ out of the 24 is higher and it takes regular filters, I have a comically mammoth Fotodiox filter kit for the TS-E17 and it really isn't practical or reasonably priced.
> 
> ...


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## Valvebounce (Apr 4, 2020)

Hi Cayenne.
A quote from PBD in the waterfalls thread.

“Have you read Kieth's articles?

This one is about using an iterative approach to focus and tilt http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/alternative-focus-technique-for-tilted-lens/ It takes a lot longer to read than do!

But he has loads of articles about using tilt/shift lenses and reviews of all seven EF TS-E's, first class resource for everything tilt shift, and printers and a ton of other gems. http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/category/articles-and-reviews/tilt-shift/”

Cheers, Graham. 




cayenne said:


> Do you by chance have any links to sites/videos explaining how doing the tilt/shift thing works for moving the plane of focus, etc?
> 
> I don't have a TS lens yet, but I do have a new MF View camera (6x17).....which has all the tilt and shift movements TS lens would have....so, I'm interested in learning the principals of this, how and why it works, etc.
> 
> ...


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## stevelee (Apr 4, 2020)

I shot a few pictures in a small park at the end of my street. There is nothing spectacular in these that demonstrate much about the tilt-shift properties, though I used both in making the pictures.


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## Del Paso (Apr 4, 2020)

cayenne said:


> Do you by chance have any links to sites/videos explaining how doing the tilt/shift thing works for moving the plane of focus, etc?
> 
> I don't have a TS lens yet, but I do have a new MF View camera (6x17).....which has all the tilt and shift movements TS lens would have....so, I'm interested in learning the principals of this, how and why it works, etc.
> 
> ...


YES !!!!!!
Shooting tips by Canon's Rudy Winston!
To be found on The Digital Picture.
Good luck!


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## privatebydesign (Apr 4, 2020)

cayenne said:


> Do you by chance have any links to sites/videos explaining how doing the tilt/shift thing works for moving the plane of focus, etc?
> 
> I don't have a TS lens yet, but I do have a new MF View camera (6x17).....which has all the tilt and shift movements TS lens would have....so, I'm interested in learning the principals of this, how and why it works, etc.
> 
> ...


As Graham pointed out the Northlight links really are a goldmine, but the best nugget for your specific enquiry is these two gif's from Keiths site ( http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/using-lens-tilt-on-your-digital-slr/ ) but credited to Harold Merklinger, the brains behind the maths of focusing tilt/shift cameras and movements.

To understand how it works it is important to realize anybody who just mentions or eludes to the Scheimpflug Principle is missing the key element of how varying focus also rotates the plane of focus, but differently! The first GIF is the effect of tilting the lens and demonstrates the Scheimpflug Principle, the second GIF illustrates the 'Hinge Rule' and the changes to the plane of focus when you adjust focus, this is the key many people miss.Once you hear people using this stuff and referring to the 'J' distance you know they have a much better grasp of how it all works, that distance is from the lens center to the hinge line. Keith has printed cheat sheets for the various focal lengths, tilt angles and J distances.









If you really want to dig in the weeds Merklinger's two booklets are freely available on the web.



http://www.trenholm.org/hmmerk/FVC161.pdf





http://www.trenholm.org/hmmerk/TIAOOFe.pdf



And there are other articles with the above GIF's and more of them https://lensnotes.com/articles/principles-of-view-camera-focus/


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## privatebydesign (Apr 4, 2020)

Del Paso said:


> YES !!!!!!
> Shooting tips by Canon's Rudy Winston!
> To be found on The Digital Picture.
> Good luck!


I haven't found anything by or from Canon that goes beyond a very rudimentary precursor into accurate T/S use, that includes their instruction books, videos, talks, presentations etc, indeed most of them I have found miss key points or further commonly held inaccuracies.


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## privatebydesign (Apr 4, 2020)

My playtime for the day.

TS-E 50 with full tilt, directly out of camera as attested to by the dust!


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## stevelee (Apr 6, 2020)

I decided to do some close up tests before I ship the 24 mm lens back. I used maximum tilt for all shots. For the first ones, I put the lens on a 12mm extension tube. The calculator didn't look that linty in real life, so the lens if very sharp. With the tilt, the closest part appears to get 0.55x magnification. Apertures are f/16 and f/22.


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## stevelee (Apr 6, 2020)

Same setup for the ruler, f/16 and f/22


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## stevelee (Apr 6, 2020)

Then I took some shots without the extension tube. Maximum magnification for the lens is listed at 0.34, but with the tilt the closest part seems to be 0.42, so not really that different from that with the tube. For comparison, here are one shot at f/10 with the tube and at f/11 without:


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## stevelee (Apr 6, 2020)

And finally, without the tube, the ruler at f/3.5 and f/10:


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## stevelee (Apr 6, 2020)

That was not so rigorous a test, but enough to satisfy my curiosity. I've resized the pictures for posting. If anybody thinks they might glean some useful information from this, I'll be glad to post some 100% crops. Just tell me what you want.

Since the tubes were delivered this afternoon, I decided to try them on the lens. It rapidly became obvious that anything longer than the 12mm was not practical because of the short distances needed. 

For my further comparison, I will later try the same subjects with the 100 mm non-L macro, with and without tubes. I expect the longer focal length and lack of tilt will give much smaller depth of field. I won't post those pictures here unless someone thinks that will be a useful comparison for them also.


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## stevelee (May 11, 2020)

The rented 17mm TS-E was delivered today. I haven't done much with it yet, just tried a couple of things. I shot from where I was seated in the den and used the tilt for focusing on the window beside me and keeping the fireplace reasonably in focus.




Then I tried putting the tilt and shift in the same direction. At extreme values of both, there is almost no light on the sensor, so I backed off a bit. I used the tilt to focus on the button on my shirt without plugging the distant objects too much. Even in this reduced version, you can see the detail in the cloth. Pardon my obesity.


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## privatebydesign (May 25, 2020)

Shot at dawn this morning with the TS-E 50, it's actually a two shot vertical shifted pano. May we all remember those active duty men, women and K9's who paid the ultimate price.

At this memorial the blue crosses are for active duty K9's and the yellow crosses for men and women who were lost to suicide on their return from theater.


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## stevelee (May 25, 2020)

I have about run out of things to try with the 17mm lens. I send it back Wednesday, and we are having showers off and on. I have to make a short video for the Episcopal church in my neighborhood to use Sunday, so I need to ge that done before I do much more playing around. The shoot itself is not that tricky, just me sitting by the window reading aloud. But the text is the original Greek of much of Acts 2, so I need to practice a lot. Also, without a haircut, I will need to work on my hair to keep from looking too much like Einstein on a bad hair day. I don't have an external microphone, but I don't guess intelligibility will be that important. I believe it will be part of a split screen with people reading simultaneously in other languages. Maybe I should dress as Charlie Weaver or Charles Nelson Reilly.

I took some shots on campus Sunday, including some panoramas and some outdoor artworks with the buildings. This is probably my favorite shot:




I did use some tilt and shift on the above to lessen the convergence. This is a more conventional view with the perspective straightened:


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## stevelee (May 25, 2020)

I like the look of this one, for some reason:


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## stevelee (May 25, 2020)

I have not mastered this lens for interior shots. I would not use this lens for real estate work, although I understand there are pros who do great with it. Here are a couple of bad photos of small rooms in my house:







Were I to buy either of the lenses, I would definitely choose the 24mm. But I have mostly satisfied my curiosity about them, and would find it hard to justify the cost for the small amount of use they would get. If I still got work from realtors, for example, then the situation would be different.


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## privatebydesign (May 28, 2020)

stevelee said:


> I have not mastered this lens for interior shots. I would not use this lens for real estate work, although I understand there are pros who do great with it. Here are a couple of bad photos of small rooms in my house:
> 
> Were I to buy either of the lenses, I would definitely choose the 24mm. But I have mostly satisfied my curiosity about them, and would find it hard to justify the cost for the small amount of use they would get. If I still got work from realtors, for example, then the situation would be different.



There is no doubt the 17 is much more difficult to use effectively than the 24, indeed I use the 17 with a 1.4TC giving me a 24 more often than I use the 17 alone, but I need 17 often enough to justify it over the 24.

If people were looking at the TS-E's primarily for landscape I'd say get the 24 and when you want wider stitch, if you are real estate/architectural shooter and can only afford one then get the 17 and TC's as the IQ from that combination is plenty high enough even for particular clients. One of the downsides of the 17 is the cost, hassle, and bulk of filter solutions which are much more widely used by landscape shooters than real estate shooters.

I was very deliberate about getting my TS-E lenses, I can't justify more than two and I already had both 1.4 and 2x TC's and I shoot a lot more real estate and architecture than landscapes, so for me the TS-E 17 was the obvious choice. I have now augmented the 17 with the TS-E 50 which I use for real estate exteriors, product and macro shooting, with those two lenses and TC's I have ended up with very high quality 17mm, 24mm, 34mm, 50mm, 70mm, and 100mm TS-E's.

I'm glad you ended up having fun with your rentals, always good to push ourselves in whatever we have an interest in.


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## stevelee (May 29, 2020)

Back when I shot a few houses for a realtor, I used my T3i and the EF-S 10-22mm lens. The results were fine. Now I could use the 16-35mm with my FF camera for very similar results. I didn't need anything printed to large sizes, so the resolution lost by using Photoshop to straighten perspective didn't matter. I was pleased with the results, and the realtor was even happier with them.

I did really enjoy my lens "staycations," and look forward to renting something else exotic and interesting some day, maybe one of the macro TS-E lenses, once I figure out what I'd want to do with it. I might eventually think of some more things to try with the 24mm and get it again. With both lenses I really liked how shifts made panoramas that Photoshop had no trouble lining up without curving straight lines. Maybe I'll try a nodal thingy (pardon my technical language) and how that works for shooting to stitch. For wide scenic vistas with my G7X II, since there were no straight lines involved, I found stitching shots together almost always worked great. The camera is so small, I may well be rotating pretty close to the nodal point of the lens anyway. I hadn't thought of that before.


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## stevelee (May 29, 2020)

Some G7X II stitched panoramas:

The original of this one is 14,589 x 4607 pixels:







And this one is 15,784 x 3678 pixels. Both look spectacular full size on my monitor, and both would make great prints on roll paper.


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## privatebydesign (May 29, 2020)

stevelee said:


> Some G7X II stitched panoramas:
> 
> The original of this one is 14,589 x 4607 pixels:
> 
> ...


If you ever want them printed on roll paper let me know...


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## stevelee (May 29, 2020)

privatebydesign said:


> If you ever want them printed on roll paper let me know...


Thanks. I can do roll paper in my Epson R3000. Over my mantel I have a framed 3' wide panorama of pictures I stitched together from shots of mountains and glaciers made near the triple continental divide between Jasper and Lake Louise.

Four years ago a neighbor gave me a short video he had made panning across a ski resort and wanted me to make a panorama of it for him to hang on a wall at his mountain home. I told him I'd try, since I had never heard of anyone doing that. I had Photoshop save stills from the video, and than I chose ones to try stitching together in different combinations. We picked out our favorite choice, and I printed it out for him. I think it turned out a little wider than my Canada panorama. I haven't been up to his mountain home to see how it looked framed, but he was happy with it.


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## stevelee (May 29, 2020)

BTW the panoramas I posted above are from Canyonlands National Park in Utah.


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