# Advice for shooting Olympic Nat. Park and Oregon Coast



## kirkcha (Jun 3, 2015)

Looking for any recommendations on places not to miss in the Olympic National Park and the Oregon Coast. Will have one or two day trips from Tacoma WA to Olympic and then one day/night in Gearhart OR and one day/night at the Heceta lighthouse in OR. Looking to plan a couple other days on the southern OR coast. I like to do a lot of long exposed water so any waterfall and beach recommendations would be great. Also any lodging suggestions on the southern OR coast would help.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks, Kirk


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## JustMeOregon (Jun 3, 2015)

The _southern_ Oregon coast is way less crowded as compared to the northern coast and (in IMHO) is far more dramatic and photogenic... If you're staying at Heceta Head you probably already know about Cape Perpetua State Park & "Thor's Well", just don't get too close during an incoming tide...

Traveling south from Heceta Head be sure to check-out Shore Acres State Park (west of Coos Bay). Especially if big wave-action is forecast...

A little further south is Bandon, arguably the nicest town on the coast. _The_ place to stay here is The Sunset Motel, rooms in the "Vern Brown Addition" are worth every penny... On Bandon Beach, just behind the Sunset, you'll find those iconic Oregon sea-stacks that are so famous... http://www.sunsetmotel.com

Continuing down Highway 101, the stretch from Gold Beach to Brookings might well be the nicest drive on the entire west coast. Think "A Bigger Big Sur" with just a fraction of the people...

Lastly, if you have the time, don't forget to check-out some of the giant redwood groves (State & National Parks) just south of Brookings.


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## kirkcha (Jun 4, 2015)

JustMeOregon said:


> The _southern_ Oregon coast is way less crowded as compared to the northern coast and (in IMHO) is far more dramatic and photogenic... If you're staying at Heceta Head you probably already know about Cape Perpetua State Park & "Thor's Well", just don't get too close during an incoming tide...
> 
> Traveling south from Heceta Head be sure to check-out Shore Acres State Park (west of Coos Bay). Especially if big wave-action is forecast...
> 
> ...



Thank you JustMeOregon, this is exactly the type of info I was looking for. I am just starting to research the area and only reason we chose Heceta Head was because some friends visited the lighthouse and thought it would be fun to stay there. 

Is there any place you would recommend staying around Gold Beach-Brookings or would you choose Bandon as the place to spend a couple days and explore the southern coast? We were looking at Tu Tu Ton lodge up the river too.

Thanks again


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jun 4, 2015)

kirkcha said:


> Looking for any recommendations on places not to miss in the Olympic National Park and the Oregon Coast. Will have one or two day trips from Tacoma WA to Olympic and then one day/night in Gearhart OR and one day/night at the Heceta lighthouse in OR. Looking to plan a couple other days on the southern OR coast. I like to do a lot of long exposed water so any waterfall and beach recommendations would be great. Also any lodging suggestions on the southern OR coast would help.
> 
> Any help is appreciated.
> 
> Thanks, Kirk



I grew up on the borders of the Olympic National Forest, just driving around the Olympic Peninsula with time for stopping is a two day event.

A lot depends on what you want to see. It can also depend on the day of the week. The highway can be busy with logging trucks on weekdays and sightseers on Weekends, and they are no fun. The rain forest is a obvious place of beauty. Things have probably changed enough since I used to work summers at Humptulips that I can't give detailed advice.

I would recommend not trying to see too much in two days. I'd drive from Tacoma to Port Angeles or to the Sol Duc Hot springs (Reservations may be gone by now) the first day, and plan for a couple of side trips. Then on to the Hoh Rain Forest the 2nd day, stopping at the rain forest and further South, you can hiking down to one of the Ocean beaches or drive further south to points where you can drive to a beach without hiking down a steep trail.

I'd spend the second night in Westport, or on down to Long Beach / Ilwaco. That would be a really ambitious trip if you wanted to spend much time taking photos. The Lewis and Clark Center near Ilwaco has, as I recall, a huge vista and spectacular view, but a little hiking is required. 

Expect gray mornings along the beaches, often its gray all day. If you are very lucky, there might be clear enough weather to see the miles and miles of beach. Long beach can be pretty spectacular, but it is usually crowded. They have a huge kite festival every summer which is amazing. 

As you move South of Tillamook, Oregon, there seems to be less of the gray weather. Be sure to reserve a place to stay on the Oregon Coast. Many places are expensive, you can always find cheaper places, but the ocean takes its toll on motels, and some of the cheap ones are just plain bad.

There are many things you can do along the way, lots of charter boats for ocean fishing, and perhaps even charter boats for ling cod on the Columbia. As there are fewer fish, they keep changing catch limits and minimum sizes. Your catch can be processed, vacuum packed, frozen and shipped, or you can exchange it for canned fish. Long gone are the days when I could go out of Westport and catch my limit of three big King Salmon. Any bottom fish like Halibut were thrown back. Now, Halibut is probably protected. During the 1930's depression, the fishermen often caught Halibut along with Salmon. They gave the Halibut to the locals who spent the entire depression eating halibut. Dad used to buy small whole Fresh halibut for dinner every Friday for 19 cents a pound. At well over $15 a pound now, I can't afford it but rarely.


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## JustMeOregon (Jun 4, 2015)

Both Brookings & Gold Beach are larger-size coastal towns that have all the tourist accommodations anyone could ever want. They're okay... and neither one are really _that_ big or crowded -- nothing like in California or the northern Oregon coasts... But I guess I just prefer my southern Oregon coastal towns to be a bit smaller & more laid-back. So that's why I've been going to "The Sunset" in Bandon for more than 20-years now.

I live in Ashland, Oregon, so when we need to escape to the coast we'll typically do a loop-route -- a couple of days in Bandon then drive home either via the north-loop (if the coastal-fog is heavy) through Reedsport & inland along the Umpqua River for some very nice pastoral scenery. Or, if the clouds "look right", the south-loop through (Gold Beach & Brookings) hoping for that perfect sunset... One of my favorite spots to find a sunset is at Lone Ranch Beach State Park just north of Brookings... Finally heading inland through the redwoods & the Smith River Scenic Byway on Hwy 199.

Also, are you sure that you really want to try to "do" Olympic National Park by day-tripping out of Tacoma? I know the Olympic Peninsula pretty well and its got to be at least a 4-hour drive to Forks without any traffic getting out of Tacoma...

If I may ask, I might be able to be a bit more helpful if you gave me a little more details on what you are looking for... Is this strictly a photo-trip? Any kids or significant others who need to be entertained while you are out taking pictures? What time of year are you thinking and for how long? Are you obligated to be anywhere particular during your trip?


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## kirkcha (Jun 4, 2015)

JustMeOregon said:


> Also, are you sure that you really want to try to "do" Olympic National Park by day-tripping out of Tacoma? I know the Olympic Peninsula pretty well and its got to be at least a 4-hour drive to Forks without any traffic getting out of Tacoma...
> 
> If I may ask, I might be able to be a bit more helpful if you gave me a little more details on what you are looking for... Is this strictly a photo-trip? Any kids or significant others who need to be entertained while you are out taking pictures? What time of year are you thinking and for how long? Are you obligated to be anywhere particular during your trip?



First, Thank you and Mt Spokane for your help.

Unfortunately, I don't have any other options but to do two day trips and I realize driving time is going to eat in to this and that is why this advice is going to help so much. Was hoping to narrow it down to a few great places. 

I will be traveling with friends but most of us are going with the anticipation of shooting but sightseeing too. It will be in the summer and we do have a lot of other plans while in the Tacoma/Seattle area so Olympic is just kind of a side trip but if there are other suggestions for day trips I am open. Was thinking we might also be able to see some of the south side of Olympic when we leave Tacoma heading to the OR coast. I think the OR coast is the main attraction for shooting for me and that is why we are dedicating 5 days.

Thanks again


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jun 4, 2015)

I spent two summers while attending college working in Tacoma. Its changed a lot since then.

One fun trip that can be done in a day with lots of photographic challenges is a trip to Tillicum Village on Blake Island from Seattle. The island is small, and has no roads, just a state park marina and a Indian Salmon bake. The photo challenges abound, particularly on the boat ride to the Island and back. Lots to see and photograph during the day trip over, and come back at dusk, and get some photos of Seattle at night. As always, marine areas might be hazy, foggy, or crystal clear.

From Tacoma, its just a relatively short drive to Eatonville and Northwest Trek. Reserve a photo tour if any openings are available. You will be on the flanks of Mt Rainier, another place close to Tacoma with a ton of photo opportunities.








There is too much blue due to my PP trying to cut thru the haze that day.











I did not have time to visit the sailing ship, and snapped a photo from the boat to Tillicum Village thru the haze.






Mt Rainier in the haze, from the boat.






Heading back to Seattle at night. The boat can be rocking, and light is low. I used my 135mm L, a fast lens is good along with very high ISO.






You can spend a whole day at the museum of flight, its almost endless exhibits, and its a place where DR actually matters


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## JustMeOregon (Jun 4, 2015)

I think that Mt Spokane is right in saying that your day-trips out of Tacoma might be put to better use if you lower your sights a bit, cut the driving-time in half, & simply enjoy some of the things that are closer to SeaTac. Don't get me wrong, the Olympic National Park is fantastic -- last year's overnight hike into Shi Shi Beach was about as close to a religious experience as I've had since the early '70's... But trying to race back to Tacoma while being stuck behind a logging truck and a Winnebago may well take its toll on you...

So simply enjoying what is right in front of you may well be the wise move... I'm not a "big city person", but when I've been stuck-in found myself in the Seattle area, I've enjoyed taking photos at the Chihuly Glass Garden (right under the Space Needle) especially if they have early morning or after-dark hours. I also gotten some fun shots of the "Seattle Underground Tour" in Pioneer Square. Finally, as Mt Spokane said earlier, Mt. Rainier National Park looks like it would be a much more do-able day-trip out of Tacoma.

5 days on the Oregon coast is a good amount of time. Of course you could easily spend 5 weeks here, but with just a bit of advanced planning you'll have a great trip. Now you're sure to be tempted to drive down the entire Oregon all the way from Astoria to Brookings. Just be forewarned that its a long slow drive. Do-able in a day for sure, but at least consider breaking up the long drive by adding an over-night stay mid-way.

If you already have reservations at the Hecta Head Lighthouse B&B that's great! If that's not available, Yachats is a wonderful little town just 20 miles further north and it's right next door to Cape Perpetua State Park. Here you'll find the famous Thor's Well that is on everyone's photographic bucket-list. Another neat photo to be found at Perpetua is a stitched pano of all the blow-holes & spouting horns that surround you on the trail's main over-look. You'll easily see what I mean if you go there... While in Yachats I stay at the Overleaf Lodge if I'm traveling with my wife. If I'm by myself I stay next-door at the Fireside motel; same great ownership as the Overleaf, but half the price...

So if it was my 5-days on the Oregon coast I'd overnight in Yachats (or Hecta Head) and then spend 2 nights in both Bandon and Gold Beach (or Brookings). Deciding between Gold Beach & Brookings is a "just pick 'em". Thought I've never stayed at the Tu Tu Tun Lodge you mentioned I'm and very familiar with the area. It is 5-miles or so up-river from Gold Beach, which isn't necessarily a bad-thing, it's just certainly not a "coastal" experience... In fact, when the marine-layer drifts into shore, and Gold Beach is fogged-in & a drizzly 55-degrees, just a couple of miles inland (up-river, in the area of the lodge) it can easily be 85-degrees in the blazing sun! A lot'a folks would consider that a good thing...

So just 2 last words of advice for now. First, as mentioned by Mt Spokane, decide on where you're staying and make your reservations RIGHT NOW! And lastly, only silly tourists wear wet sneakers... While on the beach, _real_ Oregonians proudly wear they're goofy rubber boots! You'll know 'em when you see 'em... They're cheap & available everywhere. Just buy a pair and you can thank me later...


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## kirkcha (Jun 5, 2015)

JustMeOregon said:


> I think that Mt Spokane is right in saying that your day-trips out of Tacoma might be put to better use if you lower your sights a bit, cut the driving-time in half, & simply enjoy some of the things that are closer to SeaTac. Don't get me wrong, the Olympic National Park is fantastic -- last year's overnight hike into Shi Shi Beach was about as close to a religious experience as I've had since the early '70's... But trying to race back to Tacoma while being stuck behind a logging truck and a Winnebago may well take its toll on you...
> 
> So simply enjoying what is right in front of you may well be the wise move... I'm not a "big city person", but when I've been stuck-in found myself in the Seattle area, I've enjoyed taking photos at the Chihuly Glass Garden (right under the Space Needle) especially if they have early morning or after-dark hours. I also gotten some fun shots of the "Seattle Underground Tour" in Pioneer Square. Finally, as Mt Spokane said earlier, Mt. Rainier National Park looks like it would be a much more do-able day-trip out of Tacoma.
> 
> ...



Appreciate the advice. This makes me think if I do go to Olympic that I might be able to squeeze an extra half day. If I could leave early in the morning and spend all day in the north part of Olympic and spend the night in Port Angeles/Lake Crescent and the next morning exploring and get back to Tacoma by say 2-3 pm the next day, would that be worth it? 

Mt. Rainier was also on our list of could do, so that maybe the direction too if we couldn't overnight. 

Yes, we plan to break up the OR coast into parts. Tacoma-Gearhart, Gearhart-Heceta Head (have reservations for both those) and now just trying to figure out the 2-3 nights in Bandon/Gold Beach.


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## JustMeOregon (Jun 5, 2015)

Port Angeles may well be the nicest town on the peninsula -- it strikes a good balance between being touristy and being a real-town with working locals... A lot of ex-southeast-Alaskans have retired there to escape the rainy weather of Juneau & the inside-passage area. If you go there check-out the big marina & dry docks on the east side of town for some interesting photo opportunities... The last time I was there someone was restoring the boat that John Steinbeck used to travel the Sea of Cortez. Also, remember that the Port Angeles / Lake Crescent area are on the "dry side" of the peninsula so you may not get that ultra-lush temperate rainforest experience you may be expecting. Again, this is not necessarily a bad thing... The closest place to get a taste of the rainforest would probably be west of Lake Crescent, up the Sol Duc road into the park -- a real nice drive that definitely is worth the time.

How to divide-up 2 or 3 nights between Bandon and Gold Beach (Brookings)... _That_ is a tough call... The most scenic 30-mile stretch of Hwy 101 on the entire coast (between Gold Beach & Brookings) vs having the single most picturesque beach & sea-stacks in the state just outside of your private balcony (if you stay at the Sunset in Bandon)... Yeah, that's a real tough call that only you can make... If it was me, I'd forgo Gearhart (the northern Oregon coast is just too close to the big population centers of Portland, Salem, & Eugene) and maximize my time on the _less_ crowded & _more_ scenic southern coast.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jun 5, 2015)

I'd like to do the loop around the Olympics again. I took a trip from Spokane to Portland along the Columbia Gorge this spring, it took 5 days, and I could have spent another week.

I have also planned a Oregon Coast trip, but at the time, I could not get away from home for a long enough period. My father lived between Medford and Ashland, so I've visited there a few times. I've been along the Northern California coast, but it was when I was a kid. Those were the days where the tourist stops wired bumper signs to your car, and you bought decals for your car window. I vaguely remember the Oregon Vortex, and the Redwoods. Eastern Washington has a similar place, where balls roll uphill, but its location is not public, the locals do not want to be flooded with tourists.

I grew up near Elma, and could drive up to Camp Grisdale, one of the last Company towns in the logging industry. There are some high mountain lakes there that are known only to a few locals. The water is so clear that I could watch the huge trout laying alongside logs a few feet from the shore. Some of the trees were almost as big as Redwoods, one would be a load for a flatcar. Fortunately, the timber company did not cut them. I've always wondered if they are still there almost 50 years later. They now have built a dam on the Satsop river, so I expect that its all ruined now.

As I kid, I could hike back into the woods following a long abandoned railroad grade. There were some large trestles, mostly fallen down, but there was one still standing. The rails and ties were gone, but the main 12 X 24 inch timbers zigzagged across far above the rocky creek below. I went across once and waded the creek after that. Now, you can drive along the fire road fairly close to it, but its just a pile of rubble. A large tour bus carrying tourists that had absolutely no business being up there on a primitive road went over a bank near that point where we camped in the 1950's. It really made me wonder what the driver could have been thinking to let someone talk him into going there.


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## kirkcha (Jun 5, 2015)

JustMeOregon said:


> If it was me, I'd forgo Gearhart (the northern Oregon coast is just too close to the big population centers of Portland, Salem, & Eugene) and maximize my time on the _less_ crowded & _more_ scenic southern coast.



I think we were thinking Tacoma to Heceta Head via the coast was too much for one day and wouldn't have much time to see the north coast if we drove straight through.

We are going to fish the upper Sacramento on the way up and going to spend a couple days at Wine Country Farm B&B in Dayton and a night in Portland before Tacoma. Any other recommendations for photo/sightseeing along the 5.

And thanks again, appreciate all the advice.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jun 5, 2015)

kirkcha said:


> JustMeOregon said:
> 
> 
> > If it was me, I'd forgo Gearhart (the northern Oregon coast is just too close to the big population centers of Portland, Salem, & Eugene) and maximize my time on the _less_ crowded & _more_ scenic southern coast.
> ...



Just a few miles East of the Portland airport is the Columbia Gorge Falls area. Spectacular. If you spend the night near the Portland Airport, you can be there in 30 minutes, its only 27 miles east of Portland.

http://www.columbiarivergorge.info/waterfalls.html


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## kirkcha (Jun 5, 2015)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> kirkcha said:
> 
> 
> > JustMeOregon said:
> ...



Great suggestion, I think that is the direction we are thinking. I have done the hike over Benson Bridge to Multnomah one time on a trip from Portland to Bend and would like to check out some of the other falls. Beautiful area.


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## Cali_PH (Jun 7, 2015)

If you make it to the Brookings area, I highly recommend trying to find what's unofficially called "Secret Beach." I know there's an official name but even the locals called it Secret Beach. The spot is a bit hard to find, even with mile marker info we passed the pullout shortest trail. Basically, when you reach the area, look for a small dirt pullout on the west side (Right, heading South) right at the beginning of a guard rail. Once at the bottom of the trail, you're overlooking the beach (where most of the shots of this beach are taken). Getting down onto the beach does require some scrambling, so please be careful if you choose to go down. Also be careful of the tides, as the south end of the beach is only accessible at lower tides.

Secret Beach

Cape Kiwanda is another location I've seen some great shots from, but was unable to make it on my trip last year.


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## applecider (Jun 8, 2015)

Hiking Columbia Gorge on a 100° day and cooling feet. Gear I brought for the about 2 mile hike up to fairy falls from Wachella Falls (near multinomah falls):

SL1 with EF-S18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM, also had the 35mm F2 IS canon but it stayed in the pack. Gear was dictated by weight for the hike, and I also had a dog mostly off leash. A surui 5 section carbon tx1205 tripod, which is light and small.

There are a ton of hiking trails with falls along the gorge, in that area but parking on weekends is competitive.


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## applecider (Jun 25, 2015)

Making scores is a night time activity on the Oregon coast here just south of haystack rock on canon beach. Iso 6400 0.8 sec 55 otus.


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## BeenThere (Jun 25, 2015)

Last year, my spouse and I made a long road trip that included the Oregon and Washington coast all the way to Olympic NP. The coast was great for photography. We wrote a travel log that has some of the information that you are asking about. The link to the travel log is:


http://www.ronbrunsvold.com/travel-log-click-the-blue/


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