# EOS R: Quirks and Quibbles



## YuengLinger (Sep 14, 2019)

Point of this* thread intended for EOS R OWNERS* is not to complain about the camera, but to discuss challenges and work arounds. 

I received mine a few days ago, and I've identified a few issues that don't seem learning-curve related. Here are two:

1) There is currently no third-party eyecup for the EVF, such as the Hoodman Hoodeye line of eyecups that works so great for dSLR's. I like to shoot in early morning and late afternoon, but the angle of the sun at these times (after and before golden hour) makes seeing through the EVF very difficult for me. The Nikon Z's already have an eyecup, and I've written to Hoodman to ask if one might be coming for the EOS R (which, by the way, has its eyecup screwed on, but otherwise comes off without much effort.)

Anybody have some kind of DIY solution yet?

2) Not a big deal, but the Auto Sensor Cleaning, unless completely disabled, engages every time the display goes to sleep--which is a LOT! The only setting that stops that is just turning "Auto" off altogether. Sure, I might be able to just remember to engage it when I swap lenses, but it is definitely a quirk.

There's more, but I don't want to start with a long laundry list, and, frankly, this camera is new to me and many issues will likely resolve themselves.

I am seeing the potential of the R's AF, and getting very good initial results with it--especially considering I've been shooting at f/1.2 and relatively low shutter speeds with a non-IS lens! But the EVF is a huge change for me.

Please, fellow *EOS R OWNERS*, chime in and share some of the quirks and quibbles you are dealing with and learning to work with.

Thanks!


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## padam (Sep 14, 2019)

I enjoy vintage lenses just as much as new lenses (they are not designed for this sensor, but they simply look wonderful) and I found a decent use for the touchbar, swiping left or right is an easy way to jump in and out of this view. This is important, because while the EVF is decent and there is the peaking as well, but it is really still not good enough to check for critical focus (same for the LCD, very nice quality but just not good enough for this).
This magnifying mode still has little quirks on its own, I wish that it would not magnify 10x, if I do a bigger swipe and always stay at 5x. Also, moving around with the touch and drag is counter-intuitive (opposite direction) and slow, and you can't adjust it in any way. The Sony cameras are more friendly, where you have the box moving around and you can decide if you want to magnify that and jump back easily to check the framing (and you can do that while recording a video, you can't do that here either)
But here is the deal: if the camera is kept in face-tracking AF mode and then the lens gets exchanged for a manual one, it won't let you magnify the image at all. And what's even funnier still, is that it won't even let you change back the AF mode to single-point with the assigned button.
So one has go all the way to the Q menu to fix this where it can be changed even with MF. And this will happen constantly for sure, if one is changing the modes (and lenses).

I do have other quirks that I might be able to smooth out, but this is enough for now, I will have to live with it or go all AF which is a different story 

Some things that I was able to fix include the eye-sensor, which has been modified, and now it jumps to the EVF unnecessarily much less than before (for instance, you flip the screen out and go into the touch menu, and because your finger is pointing towards the screen it instantly switched to the EVF, that was annoying).
I also reprogrammed a button for instant switching between custom modes, which is much faster, it is especially good to engage the silent mode very quickly when needed (but switching to video is still unnecessarily slow). Also, when I want to get a sharper shot at a slower shutter speed, I don't engage the shutter with the end of my finger but I push that forward. It is a bit awkward, but also more gentle, and you can see that effect in the viewfinder, it jumps much less after pressing the shutter this way, I guess fitting a soft release shutter button would also do something similar.


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## Viggo (Sep 14, 2019)

padam said:


> I enjoy vintage lenses just as much as new lenses (they are not designed for this sensor, but they simply look wonderful) and I found a decent use for the touchbar, swiping left or right is an easy way to jump in and out of this view. This is important, because while the EVF is decent and there is the peaking as well, but it is really still not good enough to check for critical focus (same for the LCD, very nice quality but just not good enough for this).
> This magnifying mode still has little quirks on its own, I wish that it would not magnify 10x, if I do a bigger swipe and always stay at 5x. Also, moving around with the touch and drag is counter-intuitive (opposite direction) and slow, and you can't adjust it in any way. The Sony cameras are more friendly, where you have the box moving around and you can decide if you want to magnify that and jump back easily to check the framing (and you can do that while recording a video, you can't do that here either)
> But here is the deal: if the camera is kept in face-tracking AF mode and then the lens gets exchanged for a manual one, it won't let you magnify the image at all. And what's even funnier still, is that it won't even let you change back the AF mode to single-point with the assigned button.
> So one has go all the way to the Q menu to fix this where it can be changed even with MF. And this will happen constantly for sure, if one is changing the modes (and lenses).
> ...


For MF I switch the lens AF/MF button and have “record”-button to magnify. With that setting I activate MF-guide by switching the AF/MF button, move with touch’n drag to where I want to focus, hit record to magnify, focus and take the shot. Works really fast although explains it might make it seem complicated .


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## padam (Sep 14, 2019)

Viggo said:


> For MF I switch the lens AF/MF button and have “record”-button to magnify. With that setting I activate MF-guide by switching the AF/MF button, move with touch’n drag to where I want to focus, hit record to magnify, focus and take the shot. Works really fast although explains it might make it seem complicated .


Thanks for the tip!
Like how this works, it is even more annoying, that it lets me move that way very well with the 'normal' MF view, but when punching it it goes the opposite direction and slows down (maybe the speed is down to the sensor, but the control direction is just software).
Although I rarely need MF with AF capable lenses, and with manual lenses without electrical connection, it still only works the other way because there is no focus guide. Damn!
Canon really prefers its users not to use vintage glass, even though I have four Canon lenses from their rangefinder era (might get even more) at least the camera should acknowledge that


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## wockawocka (Sep 15, 2019)

I'd like a one button rotation between eye af, face detect and one shot. Rather than several different presses.


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## YuengLinger (Sep 15, 2019)

In the past couple of days, at least twice just today, the Touch and Drag AF just freezes. Seems to be happening as the camera comes out of standby. Everything else seems ready to go, but I'm getting a very frustrating 5-6 second period where the touchscreen does not respond to touch. Way too long, as the camera is just in standby, not powered down when this happens.


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## JoTomOz (Sep 16, 2019)

I need to play around with different metering modes- evaluative at least can be very inconsistent from shot to shot with identical framing.


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## Viggo (Sep 16, 2019)

JoTomOz said:


> I need to play around with different metering modes- evaluative at least can be very inconsistent from shot to shot with identical framing.


It’s not inconsistent, but it is very heavily weighted to the AF-point. I would also like a mode that is evaluative without weighing anything on the AF point.


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## wockawocka (Sep 16, 2019)

YuengLinger said:


> In the past couple of days, at least twice just today, the Touch and Drag AF just freezes. Seems to be happening as the camera comes out of standby. Everything else seems ready to go, but I'm getting a very frustrating 5-6 second period where the touchscreen does not respond to touch. Way too long, as the camera is just in standby, not powered down when this happens.



I'm finding this a lot on my newer of the two R models. Don't know if I bought a 'Friday' camera or if it's an issue with newer bodies.


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## YuengLinger (Sep 16, 2019)

wockawocka said:


> I'm finding this a lot on my newer of the two R models. Don't know if I bought a 'Friday' camera or if it's an issue with newer bodies.


I've read this as a recurring issue going back to the earliest units, but in my case, I'm looking at 1) the screen protector I used being too thick, or 2) something I'm occasionally doing with my nose. But if 2), why does the whole screen just lock up for a few moments?

It could be a bug that just has not been swatted out by firmware, but I'm doing my best to remain open minded.

And my R seems brand new, not a return. (I'm hyper suspicious, concerned about receiving expensive gear that has been shipped, shipped back, repacked, shipped again...)

Thank you, wockawocka for sharing your experience.

The rf 50mm f1.2L is what motivates me to hang in there, as is the amazingly sharp AF, and the ability to nail ambient lighting on faces before taking the shot.


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## wockawocka (Sep 16, 2019)

YuengLinger said:


> I've read this as a recurring issue going back to the earliest units, but in my case, I'm looking at 1) the screen protector I used being too thick, or 2) something I'm occasionally doing with my nose. But if 2), why does the whole screen just lock up for a few moments?
> 
> It could be a bug that just has not been swatted out by firmware, but I'm doing my best to remain open minded.
> 
> ...



The RF50 is certainly the best lens I've ever used. With the AF point lockup, this is with native lenses as well as adapted ones. I initially considered it was the adaptor.


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## YuengLinger (Sep 21, 2019)

I've had one similar incident with the camera locking up entirely, but it happened after I swapped from an ef 16-35mm f/4 (with the standard adapter) back to the rf 50mm. A restart fixed the problem.

But in about 1000 more shots since my last post four days ago, no more AF point freezing. I think the problem I was having was a combination of my nose doing something, and maybe I was just "thumbing" in the wrong part of the screen? Don't know, but can't reproduce that specific issue. Things seem fine now--even with my screen protector, no problem placing the AF point accurately and quickly.

Go figure.


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## Ozarker (Sep 22, 2019)

I like to see the histogram in the viewfinder, however, it seems the only way to not also have the electronic level in the viewfinder at the same time is to be in eye-AF. So I'd like to have the histogram without the level in the other modes also. For my use the level is just clutter. I have not found a way to fix this.


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## Viggo (Sep 22, 2019)

CanonFanBoy said:


> I like to see the histogram in the viewfinder, however, it seems the only way to not also have the electronic level in the viewfinder at the same time is to be in eye-AF. So I'd like to have the histogram without the level in the other modes also. For my use the level is just clutter. I have not found a way to fix this.


I have. I use the Touch Bar to enable/disable Level on left touch and histogram with right touch. That way I can have any of them at anytime with a very fast operation. I use swipe to change kelvin.


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## Ozarker (Sep 22, 2019)

Viggo said:


> I have. I use the Touch Bar to enable/disable Level on left touch and histogram with right touch. That way I can have any of them at anytime with a very fast operation. I use swipe to change kelvin.


Once again, I owe you a debt of gratitude. Finally, I'll have a use for the bar. Thanks!


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## Viggo (Sep 22, 2019)

CanonFanBoy said:


> Once again, I owe you a debt of gratitude. Finally, I'll have a use for the bar. Thanks!


No worries ! Glad to be of help


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## Ozarker (Sep 22, 2019)

Viggo said:


> No worries ! Glad to be of help


Just took care of it. That was driving me mad! Thanks so very much! You are the best!


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Sep 22, 2019)

The biggest issue I have currently is my fingers touching the corner of the lcd and moving the focus point. I wish there were a double tap option to AF via the touch screen.

I had a issue with the colors and contrast on the evf for a few months, then I changed the picture style from neutral to standard, and that made a big difference.

The lag in the image after capturing a photo still annoys me, I'll see if its better once all the firmware updates are applied.


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## SteveC (Sep 22, 2019)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> The biggest issue I have currently is my fingers touching the corner of the lcd and moving the focus point. I wish there were a double tap option to AF via the touch screen.



That happened to me a lot the one day I got to play with an R. I think in my case it was the tip of my nose. Annoyingly, I couldn't figure out how to get it to actually pay attention to my fingertip when i used it to try to move the focus point back.

There's probably a way to adjust it, but I only had the thing for an hour.


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## Viggo (Sep 22, 2019)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> The biggest issue I have currently is my fingers touching the corner of the lcd and moving the focus point. I wish there were a double tap option to AF via the touch screen


I used to use the SET-button to activate/deactivate touch’n drag to not inadvertently move AF-point.


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## Jethro (Sep 23, 2019)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> I had a issue with the colors and contrast on the evf for a few months, then *I changed the picture style from neutral to standard*, and that made a big difference.


Very interesting - I've always used Neutral - but I'll try Standard!


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## Viggo (Sep 23, 2019)

Jethro said:


> Very interesting - I've always used Neutral - but I'll try Standard!


I also boost sharpness quite a bit to much more clearly see proper focus.


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## Ozarker (Sep 23, 2019)

Viggo said:


> I also boost sharpness quite a bit to much more clearly see proper focus.


Guru Viggo


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## YuengLinger (Sep 24, 2019)

Couple from the past few days.

One is a basic ergonomics factor. On most of the Canon dSLR's, on the front of the body, between the viewfinder "hump" and the right grip with the shutter button, there is a ridge that makes putting the camera down secure and easy. The EOS R is just smooth and flush between the viewfinder and the grip, meaning my index finger doesn't have that ridge for a positive grip when putting the camera down in, say, the center console of my truck...or really any other surface with one hand. This matters most with a heavy lens attached.

I really hope the next R gets that ridge back.

Another quirk, that some might call a quibble, is the *AF point types*. I "discovered" by accident yesterday that they are all horizontal AF point types--no verticals, no cross-types. (I was, believe it or not, taking photos of some window blinds with cool light and shadow patterns.) Canon addresses this here:






Canon EOS R: A deep-dive Q&A session with the Canon engineers


Canon's new EOS R full-frame mirrorless camera has stirred a lot of buzz, and I'm sure readers will have as many questions as we've had about it. I had a chance to sit down with a panel of top Canon engineers at the…



www.imaging-resource.com





We also learn from the linked article that Nikon went the same way with AF point-types, just using less for some reason. Clearly not a firmware issue.

I'm working around it just as the article suggests, by slightly tilting the camera to one side or the other for a moment to lock focus. And I've already posted elsewhere that for portraiture, the R's AF system is the best I've ever used.

This does, however, explain some frustrating moments in the past week where the camera just hunted (landscapes and still lifes).

Finally, and this is a quibble that might really be a quirk, already discussed a bit here on CR: The IS stays on. But I think I can go a step further and say it is staying on EVEN WHEN THE LENS'S IS SWITCH IS OFF! I say this because I can hear it if I place my ear against the barrel. (I found some suggestions somewhere on the web that the IS disengages with the switch off, but the unit remains energized. Could this just be to have it ready? To protect it from bumps when the camera is in use without IS on?)

It would be very interesting to hear Canon's explanation!


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## YuengLinger (Oct 11, 2019)

Nearly a month into using the R. I've been using it pretty much every day, to the point where muscle memory is now causing a problem when I pick up my 5D IV!

Yes, this is a quibble. It is so much a Canon, but so different from other Canons that it gets confusing.

And the real issue I'm posting about is the EVF wanting to come on when the camera is hanging by a strap and the EVF sensor is activated by my shirt. I tried some combinations of settings to avoid this and finally hit on having the Display set to Manual, and using the top LCD light button to switch back and forth between EVF and back display. This means that the EVF doesn't come on automatically unless I switch to it before shooting. This really works to keep the displays from popping on at odd times, BUT my oh my! It is so hard to get used to switching before I bring the camera to my eye to shoot. 

I can't stand reviewing images through the EVF (even though they look good) because I feel so dumb (and kind of vulnerable, to be frank) in public standing there with my camera to my eye but not focusing on anything in the real world. Plus of course I'm completely missing whatever is going on around me. So I switch to back display to review or make settings changes, then forget to switch back, then I miss a freakin' shot because I didn't activate the EVF quicker.

Has anybody else figured out a better way???


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## Memdroid (Oct 11, 2019)

YuengLinger said:


> Nearly a month into using the R. I've been using it pretty much every day, to the point where muscle memory is now causing a problem when I pick up my 5D IV!
> 
> Yes, this is a quibble. It is so much a Canon, but so different from other Canons that it gets confusing.
> 
> ...



So recognizable. This is on the of ergonomic instances that annoys me. I would have loved it more if Canon had kept the Start/Stop button to activate/deactivate liveview display so that it behaves like the 5D and 1DX instead of giving us the touchbar nonsense.


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## Viggo (Oct 11, 2019)

Yeah, I don’t have that issue, I’ve set my camera to ECO/sleep asap, so my camera goes into standby within a few seconds of not being used, and the EVF sensor also does that. So instead of switching screen/EVF to my eye, I simply grab the camera and simultaneously halfpress the shutter. The camera wakes up on the way to my eye, and turns all the way off when I put it down.


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## koenkooi (Oct 11, 2019)

YuengLinger said:


> I can't stand reviewing images through the EVF (even though they look good) because I feel so dumb (and kind of vulnerable, to be frank) in public standing there with my camera to my eye but not focusing on anything in the real world. Plus of course I'm completely missing whatever is going on around me. So I switch to back display to review or make settings changes, then forget to switch back, then I miss a freakin' shot because I didn't activate the EVF quicker.
> 
> Has anybody else figured out a better way???



There's one case where I prefer to review in the EVF and that's for macro pictures. On my RP I feel I can see the details better in the EVF with 1:1 zoom. But most of my macro pictures are taken in my back yard, so it's not in public


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## YuengLinger (Oct 11, 2019)

Viggo said:


> Yeah, I don’t have that issue, I’ve set my camera to ECO/sleep asap, so my camera goes into standby within a few seconds of not being used, and the EVF sensor also does that. So instead of switching screen/EVF to my eye, I simply grab the camera and simultaneously halfpress the shutter. The camera wakes up on the way to my eye, and turns all the way off when I put it down.


Not working on mine, Viggo. Eco mode takes nearly 10 seconds to time out the display, but then my view finder's sensor is remaining active for one minute. I can't shorten that period. So the only way I can instantly turn off that sensor is by switching to the back display and letting that time out.

So the camera seems to be in standby, but in fact, the EVF sensor is still active. I would not have noticed this is I weren't walking when it was still dark in the morning.

Could you please try timing your EVF's sensor to see if you are getting different results? My menu options under Power Saving allow 1 minute as the shortest period of time before deactivating the EVF, and as the display of the EVF goes out before a minute, I now understand this "1 minute" to apply to the sensor.

Yes, I think we need an option, a firmware fix, to deactivate the sensor immediately, which might not be practical, or within, say, 2 seconds, rather than a full minute.


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## Viggo (Oct 11, 2019)

YuengLinger said:


> Not working on mine, Viggo. Eco mode takes nearly 10 seconds to time out the display, but then my view finder's sensor is remaining active for one minute. I can't shorten that period. So the only way I can instantly turn off that sensor is by switching to the back display and letting that time out.
> 
> So the camera seems to be in standby, but in fact, the EVF sensor is still active. I would not have noticed this is I weren't walking when it was still dark in the morning.
> 
> ...


I tried now and I guess you’re right, but what works for me is that even if it turns on again it’s only briefly, and very seldom the way I carry my camera in BR strap it’s a non-issue. If I was using the normal neck-strap I can see the absolute frustration as the EVF is never left alone.


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## YuengLinger (Oct 11, 2019)

Viggo said:


> I tried now and I guess you’re right, but what works for me is that even if it turns on again it’s only briefly, and very seldom the way I carry my camera in BR strap it’s a non-issue. If I was using the normal neck-strap I can see the absolute frustration as the EVF is never left alone.


When I noticed what was happening, I was just out with my kids, both early-birds, for a pre-dawn walk. No big deal! I have not take the EOS R to an event yet, and likely won't use it for any type of work until next month. So this is a great time for an adjustment period.

Thank you very much for trying yours to confirm mine isn't acting weirdly! I've had friends show me their BR systems, but I still prefer the old neckstrap. The benefits of the R still outweigh the quibbles by a quite a bit, and I'm determined to learn to switch back and forth manually from back display to EVF. Determined!

Unless somebody has another workaround? Which would still allow for the old neckstrap?


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## Viggo (Oct 11, 2019)

YuengLinger said:


> When I noticed what was happening, I was just out with my kids, both early-birds, for a pre-dawn walk. No big deal! I have not take the EOS R to an event yet, and likely won't use it for any type of work until next month. So this is a great time for an adjustment period.
> 
> Thank you very much for trying on yours to confirm mine isn't acting weirdly! I've had friends show me their BR systems, but I still prefer the old neckstrap. The benefits of the R still outweigh the quibbles by a quite a bit, and I'm determined to learn to switch back and forth manually from back display to EVF. Determined!
> 
> Unless somebody has another workaround? Which would still allow for the old neckstrap?


How does your neck survive with the normal strap? I wouldn’t last five minutes


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## YuengLinger (Oct 13, 2019)

Weekend update, regarding switching on and off the EVF...I'm starting to get used to it! The amount of customization that allows for being able to avoid menus, or to just go to a top level menu item in the My Menu tabs (instead of digging) is great.

If I'm using the R in the studio or some other situation where I'm not walking around with it, I can easily switch Display settings-->Display control back to Auto.


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## Ozarker (Oct 14, 2019)

Viggo said:


> How does your neck survive with the normal strap? I wouldn’t last five minutes


Instead of a strap included in the kit, there should be a $10 discount coupon towards a real strap.


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## YuengLinger (Oct 14, 2019)

CanonFanBoy said:


> Instead of a strap included in the kit, there should be a $10 discount coupon towards a real strap.


I don't use THAT one. It has no stretch or shock absorption. I use a neoprene one, and I often just carry the camera in-hand instead of around my neck when walking a long way. 

And I do carry crosswise over one shoulder.

BR screws into the tripod socket underneath, right? I think that's one reason I never gave it a try. I like to be able to go immediately to tripod, though I must admit I haven't been carrying a tripod much lately.

Watching a BR video, the camera still seems to face viewfinder towards the body, in this case the hip. (And it looks like it would be bouncing quite a bit there!)

With the simple neoprene strap over one shoulder and across my torso, I don't get much neck strain and I have simplicity. Which is why at this point I'm willing to learn to switch the EVF off and on. Heck, I've had to relearn so many things with the R anyway!


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## Viggo (Oct 14, 2019)

YuengLinger said:


> I don't use THAT one. It has no stretch or shock absorption. I use a neoprene one, and I often just carry the camera in-hand instead of around my neck when walking a long way.
> 
> And I do carry crosswise over one shoulder.
> 
> ...


I does not have the EVF against the body, it’s either facing one o’clock or eleven o’clock . If it bounces the strap is adjuster too long, I have it right above the hip and it rests on the hip between camera and lens. I’ve read before people saying it occupies the tripodmount, but it takes four seconds extra to undo, the same amount of time you spend lifting the camera off your neck


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## Ozarker (Oct 14, 2019)

YuengLinger said:


> I don't use THAT one. It has no stretch or shock absorption. I use a neoprene one, and I often just carry the camera in-hand instead of around my neck when walking a long way.
> 
> And I do carry crosswise over one shoulder.
> 
> ...


I'm using a long strap that crosses my chest. I also have a BR. But thinking of just going to a wrist strap.

The R is my favorite camera ever.


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## iamjhil (Oct 14, 2019)

I primarily use my Eos R for Video. When recording in manual, i wish you could press the magnify button to check focus. My previous camera (A7SII) did and it was great.


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## Ozarker (Oct 14, 2019)

iamjhil said:


> I primarily use my Eos R for Video. When recording in manual, i wish you could press the magnify button to check focus. My previous camera (A7SII) did and it was great.


The R has the manual focus aid which can be viewed through the viewfinder or on the screen (green arrows). You can touch the screen to place it anywhere you like. It is always dead on. Since I don't do video, I assume you want manual focus transitions to slow them down for artistic effect. The focus aid would let you do that while keeping the framing as you like it... which magnification makes tough to do. However, that may not suit your needs. 

Then, in auto, there is DPAF touch focus. Also always dead on. 

What would be cool is a way to slow down the change in touch focus point when in auto. Right now, it is near instantaneous. It would be cool if the videographer could change the time it takes to pull focus on the touch screen. In other words, instead of instantaneous, the camera could take a little time to slowly and smoothly switch between focus points so that it looks like focus is being pulled manually. That would be cool.


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## HikeBike (Oct 15, 2019)

YuengLinger said:


> I don't use THAT one. It has no stretch or shock absorption. I use a neoprene one, and I often just carry the camera in-hand instead of around my neck when walking a long way.


I just ordered a new strap to replace the stock one. I look forward to the comfort.


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## Jethro (Oct 16, 2019)

CanonFanBoy said:


> I'm using a long strap that crosses my chest. I also have a BR. But *thinking of just going to a wrist strap*.
> 
> The R is my favorite camera ever.


I do that now, and just carry a smaller camera bag over my shoulder for when I'm not going to be using the camera for extended periods. I find camera straps (even good ones) uncomfortable because the camera bounces all the time as I walk along.


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## koenkooi (Oct 16, 2019)

Jethro said:


> I do that now, and just carry a smaller camera bag over my shoulder for when I'm not going to be using the camera for extended periods. I find camera straps (even good ones) uncomfortable because the camera bounces all the time as I walk along.



Same here, but I do bring a shoulder strap just in case. The Peak Design button thingies make swapping really easy.


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## Viggo (Oct 28, 2019)

So, after 1.4.0 update, is the R metering less weighted to the focusing point? It seems so to me at least. Which is very welcomed btw.


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## Ozarker (Oct 28, 2019)

Viggo said:


> So, after 1.4.0 update, is the R metering less weighted to the focusing point? It seems so to me at least. Which is very welcomed btw.


I honestly don't remember.  That update made it a really awesome camera though. The eye AF is soooooo good. The touch and drag is smooth as silk.


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## Paul6 (Oct 29, 2019)

YuengLinger said:


> Point of this* thread intended for EOS R OWNERS* is not to complain about the camera, but to discuss challenges and work arounds.
> 
> I received mine a few days ago, and I've identified a few issues that don't seem learning-curve related. Here are two:
> 
> ...



Being bald I always wear a floppy hat when out in the sun, have found it very useful when looking though the EVF as it cuts out the sunlight. Did do a test without the hat last year and found I could not see much through the EVF wearing my glasses, the hat solved the problem.

Did a sunrise shoot in Gran Canaria a couple of weeks ago able to use the EVF with out problems both at sunrise though to the midday sun


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## YuengLinger (Oct 29, 2019)

Paul6 said:


> Being bald I always wear a floppy hat when out in the sun, have found it very useful when looking though the EVF as it cuts out the sunlight. Did do a test without the hat last year and found I could not see much through the EVF wearing my glasses, the hat solved the problem.
> 
> Did a sunrise shoot in Gran Canaria a couple of weeks ago able to use the EVF with out problems both at sunrise though to the midday sun



I meant to follow up on this. A Hoodman rep wrote back: "Unfortunately, due to the difficulty of removing the R's factory-equipped eyecup, no HoodEye product is planned at this time." Maybe I missed something in the R's warranty about removing the installed eyecup???


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## YuengLinger (Oct 29, 2019)

CanonFanBoy said:


> I honestly don't remember.  That update made it a really awesome camera though. The eye AF is soooooo good. The touch and drag is smooth as silk.


And, as I mentioned in another post, I believe that the exposure-simulation when a Speedlite is attached was addressed so that it now works properly. (Which also seems to be an upgrade to how it works in the 5DIV!)

But one EVF quibble that should be fixed: Stop the image from getting so bright when the shutter button is pressed halfway. This must be a serious tech challenge, as I believe the user manual warns about it. Something to the effect, "Don't be surprised or worried about the image appearing too bright! Exposure not affected!" (Ok, that's a paraphrase from memory.)


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## Ozarker (Oct 30, 2019)

YuengLinger said:


> And, as I mentioned in another post, I believe that the exposure-simulation when a Speedlite is attached was addressed so that it now works properly. (Which also seems to be an upgrade to how it works in the 5DIV!)
> 
> But one EVF quibble that should be fixed: Stop the image from getting so bright when the shutter button is pressed halfway. This must be a serious tech challenge, as I believe the user manual warns about it. Something to the effect, "Don't be surprised or worried about the image appearing too bright! Exposure not affected!" (Ok, that's a paraphrase from memory.)


You are right, it does get bright.


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## Viggo (Oct 30, 2019)

CanonFanBoy said:


> You are right, it does get bright.


It’s because it’s focusing wide open no? I rather have that than focus stopped down


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## Ozarker (Oct 30, 2019)

Viggo said:


> It’s because it’s focusing wide open no? I rather have that than focus stopped down


Now that you mention it... I had a shoot last night in the dark. Very little light. I could barely see the model and forgot my strobes have a modeling light (I forget stupid little things like that). Anyway, look through the EVF and I can see everything. Nice.


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## Act444 (Nov 1, 2019)

YuengLinger said:


> But one EVF quibble that should be fixed: Stop the image from getting so bright when the shutter button is pressed halfway. This must be a serious tech challenge, as I believe the user manual warns about it. Something to the effect, "Don't be surprised or worried about the image appearing too bright! Exposure not affected!" (Ok, that's a paraphrase from memory.)



interesting...I’ll note the RP does this too. Must be the EVF tech.


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## Viggo (Nov 7, 2019)

I would never use Zone AF for anything , I don’t know why it’s even included. Every shot is focused on the nearest subject (as advertised) being a fist of a person running or toes on a swing, absolutely useless


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## Ozarker (Nov 7, 2019)

Viggo said:


> It’s because it’s focusing wide open no? I rather have that than focus stopped down


You are right, as usual. The laugh was at myself.  Thinking about the 50mm you have... would you miss the f/1.2 if it was only f/2? Just wondering. It seems to be a real bargain compared to the other lenses and I am pondering picking one up in the next year. However, if a 135mm should be released then all bets are off.


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## Viggo (Nov 7, 2019)

CanonFanBoy said:


> You are right, as usual. The laugh was at myself.  Thinking about the 50mm you have... would you miss the f/1.2 if it was only f/2? Just wondering. It seems to be a real bargain compared to the other lenses and I am pondering picking one up in the next year. However, if a 135mm should be released then all bets are off.


I would absolutely miss the larger apertures. My second favorite 50 of all time is the Zeiss 50 f2 mp, and the biggest reason I don’t have it anymore is because of the f2 aperture. The look close up is magic, but a normal distances I might as well use a 24-70.


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## Ozarker (Nov 7, 2019)

Viggo said:


> I would absolutely miss the larger apertures. My second favorite 50 of all time is the Zeiss 50 f2 mp, and the biggest reason I don’t have it anymore is because of the f2 aperture. The look close up is magic, but a normal distances I might as well use a 24-70.


That's what I thought. OK. 50mm on the wish list then.


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## Ozarker (Dec 5, 2019)

You smart guys may already know this, but I stumbled upon it accidentally: Hold down the AF Point/index/Magnify/reduce button. Then you can rotate the Main Dial to move the focus point or zone horizontally and the Quick Control Dial will move it vertically. The AF point will stay where you put it and not track.


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## Dantana (Jan 28, 2020)

I have a dumb R question and I apologize if it's been answered already. I have a bad habit of hitting the ISO tag at the bottom of the LCD when I am moving the focus point around with the camera to my eye. Is there a way to lock that or something? The worst is when I am in M and using flash with my ISO set and suddenly it's in Auto ISO at some crazy high number because it's dark and I have inadvertently nudged the control. Any suggestions appreciated.

Oh, but I do love this camera and I realize this is something I'm screwing up.


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## Viggo (Jan 28, 2020)

Dantana said:


> I have a dumb R question and I apologize if it's been answered already. I have a bad habit of hitting the ISO tag at the bottom of the LCD when I am moving the focus point around with the camera to my eye. Is there a way to lock that or something? The worst is when I am in M and using flash with my ISO set and suddenly it's in Auto ISO at some crazy high number because it's dark and I have inadvertently nudged the control. Any suggestions appreciated.
> 
> Oh, but I do love this camera and I realize this is something I'm screwing up.


Yes, there is something to do about that, and I too absolutely have done what you have and shot in studio at 1600 iso and an entire day at an amusement park at 640 iso because of this stupidity. I couldn’t find it now as I don’t have the camera, but will posts as soon as I do.


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## Viggo (Jan 28, 2020)

Yellow menu no. 4 : “Shooting info disp.” -> “screen info settings” “info Edit Screen” third one down : on-screen buttons = uncheck.


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## Dantana (Jan 28, 2020)

Viggo said:


> Yes, there is something to do about that, and I too absolutely have done what you have and shot in studio at 1600 iso and an entire day at an amusement park at 640 iso because of this stupidity. I couldn’t find it now as I don’t have the camera, but will posts as soon as I do.


Thank you Viggo!


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## Dantana (Jan 28, 2020)

Viggo said:


> Yellow menu no. 4 : “Shooting info disp.” -> “screen info settings” “info Edit Screen” third one down : on-screen buttons = uncheck.



Awesome. I'll hunt that down when I get home!


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## tron (Feb 18, 2020)

I tried to read all of these quickly and … got tired. Better try one by one slower! Very useful thread!

I have an issue so I am afraid I will deviate from the rules of this thread as set by OP but I am frustrated because it happens in the field.

Every now and then the lcd shows super blurry and I cannot fix it (ok it gets fixed eventually but I haven't figured out how).
When it is that blurry pressing the shutter does not make it better neither trying to turn the manual focus lens ring.
It has happened with both 24-105 and 24-70 so it is not lens related. I even try to turn off and on and at least once it didn't work.
Usually this happens when focusing closely (but not that closely!)

Unfortunately I haven't been able to deduce more. I have set "Lens drive when AF impossible" back to ON and I will see if it happens again. Setting it to OFF is a classic birding setting but my EOS R will not be used for that so...

But seriously that blurriness was so strong that I do not believe it was the result of this setting


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## JustUs7 (Feb 20, 2020)

EOS RP, upgrade from a Rebel owner. Loving how customizable this camera is. I really like the touch and drag auto focus, so I remapped all my arrow buttons. 

Up = Reset currently selected FV item to Auto.
Left = Reset all FV items to Auto. 
Right = Quick change of shooting mode between Auto, Standard, Fine Detail, etc. 

Not a fan of the left hand menu, so currently the down arrow is mapped to menu access. This allows me to quick access “My Menu” to easily find those things I don’t use often, and might not find when I want. 

That said, what I’d like to to is hit the down arrow to access light settings to quickly change between sun, shade, AWB, etc. I’m not seeing a way to do that. Am I missing something?


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## Frodo (Feb 25, 2020)

tron said:


> Every now and then the lcd shows super blurry and I cannot fix it (ok it gets fixed eventually but I haven't figured out how).
> When it is that blurry pressing the shutter does not make it better neither trying to turn the manual focus lens ring.
> It has happened with both 24-105 and 24-70 so it is not lens related. I even try to turn off and on and at least once it didn't work.
> Usually this happens when focusing closely (but not that closely!)



Does this also happen with the EVF?


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## tron (Feb 25, 2020)

Frodo said:


> Does this also happen with the EVF?


The specific moment yes. I can make my DSLRs to do it in reality this happens very rarely and I can turn the manual focus ring and fix it immediately or I can set "Lens drive when AF impossible" set to ON. So I have set it back that way to my R. I do not use it for birding so it can stay to ON, no problem.
I believe Canon could customize it to make a first attempt to focus anyway especially if the camera is set to one shot.


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