# Hello everyone!



## pcdebb (Nov 11, 2014)

I'm new around these parts, shot Nikon for years, but i've just switched over to Canon. I guess I'm a little confused on lenses and what are the ones I should be looking at. I see "L" lenses, and other stuff...different from what I'm used to.

Is there a good source to start from to get up to speed? I have a T3 at the moment with a kit lens and a 70-300 Sigma. I'd like to get a prime and wide angle for landscapes.


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## jrista (Nov 11, 2014)

Welcome aboard, pcdebb. Welcome to the Canon side.  It's whiter over here. 


First off, L-series lenses are the Luxury line. Anything with a red band is an L-series lens, and they have the best build quality, glass quality, and all the bells and whistles. Many of Canon's L-series telephoto lenses, zooms and primes, are white...kind of an iconic look, but pragmatic as well (the lighter color reflects more heat out in the sun, resulting in slower expansion of the lens.) So, if you want the best glass, you want L-series glass.


You should also learn the difference in mounts. Canon has a few now. At their core, they are all EF mount, or Electronic Focus. The EF mount is a full frame mount with a full set of electronic contacts that support full communication between lens and camera. Derived from the EF mount is the EF-s mount. This is the short-backfocus version of the EF mount. EF-s lenses are only compatible with APS-C DSLR bodies, or crop bodies. I'll get to the naming system of Canon's DSLRs in a moment (it's very logical, which should be a nice change from Nikon's oft-changing and sometimes confusing naming scheme.) When buying lenses, it is very important that you make SURE you don't buy EF-s lenses for use on a full-frame body. The design of EF-s lenses makes use of shorter backfocus, often protruding into the mirror box a short ways. This is possible due to the fact that the mirror in a crop body is a lot smaller, allowing some clearance room for the extra protruding length of an EF-s lens. Finally, there is the EF-M mount, or mirrorless mount. EF-M lenses are only compatible with Canon's mirrorless EOS-M line of cameras, which...entirely lacking a mirror...have a much shorter flange focal distance.


All EF lenses, including EF-s and EF-M, use the same basic bayonette mount. This makes the whole system generally compatible. For example, you can use a simple passthrough adapter to attach EF-s and EF lenses to EOS-M bodies. 


When it comes to Canon ILC bodies, Canon's naming scheme is pretty simple. There are several key camera series, usually denoted with xs and Ds.  They are as follows: xxxxD, xxxD, xxD, xD. The four-digit, or xxxxD, models are the low end entry level DSLRs. Like the Canon EOS 1200D. (Oh, side note...EOS stands for Electro-Optical System, the overarching technology brand for Canon's cameras.) The three-digit, or xxxD, models are the standard entry level DSLRs. Like the Canon EOS 750D. It should also be noted that these two lines, the low end and standard entry level DSLRs, have alternative names. Together they make up the Rebels, or in Japan the "KISS" models. They usually have alternative names, such as in the US, the 1200D is also the Rebel T5, while the 750D is the Rebel T6i. For the most part, I think Canon users just refer to them by their common model number, like 1200D or 750D. 


The two-digit, or xxD, models are the midrange semi-pro level DSLRs. Like the Canon 70D or 60Da. In the semi-pro line, Canon periodically releases "astrophotography" versions. The first was the 20Da, and the current is the 60Da. These models use a special filter stack over the sensor that has weaker IR filtration, increasing the "Hydrogen-Alpha" sensitivity of the camera, making it more sensitive for imaging the emission nebula that permeate the galaxies of the cosmos. 


Each of these lines of cameras tend to have their own general size ranges as well. The xxxxD and xxxD lines tend to be the smallest, with the xxD line gaining a moderate bump up in size. When you get to the professional lines, the xD lines, size jumps up again. As far as generation-successive naming goes, Canon's models all increase by a certain sequence count each new generation. So, the 1200D will upgrade to the 1300D in the next generation (increase by 100), the 750D will upgrade to the 800D (increase by 50), and the 70D will upgrade to the 80D (increase by 10).


This is Canon's lower end series of DSLR cameras. They are all APS-C (cropped sensor frame) DSLR bodies, and therefor are all compatible with both EF and EF-s lenses. These cameras are all _incompatible _with EF-M lenses. 


Canon's professional-grade models are organized a little differently. All of them are grouped into the xD models, however instead of there simply being one line of "pro-grade" cameras, there are a few. There is the 1D line, the 5D line, the 6D line, and the 7D line. The first three are all full-frame cameras, while the latter is an APS-C camera.


The 1D is Canon's premium DSLR offering, the true "professional" line, bringing with it all the top of the line features with a top of the line price. The 1D line bodies are huge, including an integrated grip, bigger batteries that deliver more power for faster AF, and a whole host of other fancy features. The 5D line is Canon's workhorse professional-grade line of cameras, the high volume higher end model, used by countless professionals in the wedding, portraiture and journalism fields, as well as by landscape photographers, bird and wildlife photographers, and pretty much any kind of photographer who needs a highly capable, general purpose DSLR. 


The 6D line is the "entry level" full frame camera in Canon's lineup. It brings the full frame sensor to a more "affordable" body in the lower $2000 range (street price well below that.) The 6D takes a hit to a lot of the features...it uses a simpler AF system, lower frame rate, fewer custom functions, etc. The 7D line is Canon's premium APS-C body. It's relatively unique in the DSLR world, combining high end features like ultra fast frame rate, highly advanced AF and metering system, and lots of custom functions and customizability in a smaller and more compact, agile body than the 1D line. The 7D comes at a prime price in the "affordable" range, bringing true action and sports tracking quality to the masses (and for less than $2000.)


Because the xD lines are single digit, successive generations do not increase numerically. Instead, Canon has the "Mark" system for denoting generations. Such as the 1D Mark IV, the 1D X (Mark X or Mark 10), the 5D Mark III, the 7D Mark II. 


The 1D, 5D, and 6D lines, being full frame cameras, are only compatible with Canon's EF lenses. They are _incompatible _with EF-s and EF-M lenses. The 7D line, being APS-C, is compatible with EF and EF-s lenses, but is still incompatible with EF-M lenses.


So, now that you know how Canon's system works, how each camera model is named, and what mounts they are compatible with, you should be equipped to NOT buy the wrong lens.  


As for what lenses you "should be looking at", assuming you only do landscapes, then there are a variety of options. First, you have the 16-35mm and 24-70mm lenses. These are generally your "wide angle landscape" zooms. You can find these zooms in both f/2.8 and f/4 varieties, and which one you choose will ultimately depend on budget and goals, and whether you need IS or not. If you generally stop down for your landscapes, you probably don't need the f/2.8 versions of either. The EF 24-70 f/2.8 L II is one of Canon's sharpest zoom lenses in their lineup, and produces excellent quality wide open. If you are just going to stop the lens down to f/8 or f/11 for a landscape photo, you might not want to spend the extra money for the f/2.8 version. The same generally goes for the 16-35mm lenses, which also come in both apertures. The older EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L II lens uses a poorer optical design, and as such suffers fairly heavily in the corners. The newly released EF 16-35mm f/4 L IS has been rated as one of Canon's sharpest zooms, and would make for a superb wide angle landscape lens. It also has image stabilization (IS), so if you need to hand-hold it for any reason, it gives you stops of improved hand holdability.


There are also some other options for landscape photographers. Canon has a bunch of wide and ultra-wide angle primes. Like the EF 14mm f/2.8 L II, EF 24mm f/1.4 L and EF 24mm f/2.8 IS, etc. Canon also has some unique options that can bring a lot of interesting capabilities to lanscape photographers. The TS-E (Tilt/Shift Electronic) manual focus lenses, the TS-E 17mm f/4 L and TS-E 24mm f/3.5 L II, are a couple of relatively unique options to the Canon system. They are not entirely unique, as there are tilt/shift lenses for the Nikon system. However the 17mm TS is currently unique to Canon's system, and offers one of the widest tilt-shift lenses available for DSLRs. Both lenses are extremely sharp, with the TS-E 24mm being one of Canon's sharpest lenses, period. With a tilt-shift lens, you can adjust the plane of focus, and get the entire depth of your scene, from ultra close foreground objects to ultra distant background scenery, in very sharp focus at non-diffraction limited apertures (i.e. at f/4, if you wanted to...no need to stop down to f/11, f/16, f/22 for DOF.) 


Canon has plenty of other lenses, including other totally unique items like the MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Zoom Macro. They have all the standards, like your 50mm, 85mm & 135mm fast (and ultra fast) portraiture primes, your 70-200mm zooms, and a whole range of other lenses, extending out to the "Great White" L-series ultra high end telephoto and supertelephoto primes (200 f/2, 300 f/2.8, 400 f/2.8, 500 f/4, 600 f/4 and 800 f/5.6), in case you need super fast or ultra long reach.


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## pcdebb (Nov 11, 2014)

Wow, that was a hearty response! ;D

I do have the basic understanding, but thank you very much for breaking it down for me to clarify. I noticed the xD cameras are more expensive than the xxxD and xxxxD. I have the 1100D/T3. Im fine with this now as I learn the Canon way as a few things are different than i'm used to from Nikon. I know within 6 months or so I will be upgrading to something else. I also want to keep in mind, whatever lens I buy now, will be compatible with what I plan on in the future. the 16-35 was one I was looking at. I've used Tamron glass quite a bit and like them, so I may look there as well at their lineup.


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## jrista (Nov 11, 2014)

For maximum upgrade compatibility, only use true EF mount (full frame) lenses. Those are compatible with pretty much everything, including APS-C and EOS-M cameras. The other sibling mounts, EF-s and EF-M, are far less compatible, and if you ever move from APS-C to FF, any EF-s lenses you get will *not *work on the FF body. 


It should also be noted that all L-series lenses are strait up EF full-frame lenses, and therefor always compatible with all the sibling EF mount variants.


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## pcdebb (Nov 11, 2014)

Okay, I was wondering about that. EF lenses, and when i win the lottery, some L lenses


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## pcdebb (Nov 11, 2014)

PropeNonComposMentis said:


> When changing lenses, EF lenses need to be aligned with the red dot on the lens mount, whereas EF-S lenses must be aligned with the white mark


This....i've already learned that. I wondered why I had two different color dots. 

And I find the grip to be comfortable so far. It's a different feel in my hands, I honestly find it more comfortable than my previous camera. I havent had a full day out with it. I carry it for work (on the road) and steal opportunities when I can. I plan to have a good weekend getting to some spots I havent visited in a while.


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## adhocphotographer (Nov 11, 2014)

Welcome... 

If you do not know already, a great resource is http://www.the-digital-picture.com/
It has great reviews of pretty much all the lenses and has an image quality comparison feature that is very handy indeed! 

A low(ish) budget suggestion for wide-angle landscape and prime would be the following:

EF-S 10-18mm (http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-S-10-18mm-f-4.5-5.6-IS-STM-Lens.aspx)
EF 24mm f/2.8 (the version with IS if you can stretch that far)
and the classic EF 50mm f/1.8

All will be small, light and very good. if you upgrade to a full frame camera (xD) soon, you can sell the EF-S with little loss. Since you are using a crop-sensored body (1.6x), the apparent focal length of your lenses will be 1.6 times longer. So the 24mm would feel like a 38mm.

Another good buy might be the 40mm pancake, or even the new 24mm pancake (although this would not work on a full-frame body if you upgraded to one soon).

Enjoy


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## Marsu42 (Nov 11, 2014)

pcdebb said:


> Okay, I was wondering about that. EF lenses, and when i win the lottery, some L lenses



One of the main benefits of Canon over Nikon is for free: It's the 3rd party firmware addon "Magic Lantern" that adds tons of features and customizability: http://www.magiclantern.fm/

Concerning L vs. the rest of the world: There are execellent 3rd party lenses from Sigma, Tamron, Tokina out there for ef and ef-s mounts. The main benefit of using Canon lenses is that you can use their cps service. The main benefit of newer L lenses is that they are very sturdy and weather sealed. The latter is little good if your body isn't though, in that case revert to the plastic bag solution


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## AvTvM (Nov 11, 2014)

pcdebb said:


> I have a T3 at the moment with a kit lens and a 70-300 Sigma. *I'd like to get a prime and wide angle for landscapes.*



Hello & welcome here. 

* *EF-S 24/2.8 STM* - brand new, very small, very light, dirt cheap, optically probably good but pending reviews, thanks to STM AF drive especially well suited for liveview and video operation; but serves APS-C sensors only, not suitable for "full frame" ... so in Nikon lingo it's a DX lens.  

* *EF 24/2.8 IS* - excellent image quality, Image stabilizrer (IS = VR), reasonable price, compact, more than "good enough" build quality, lens hood needs to be paid extra; suitable for APS-C and full frame ["FX" lens]

if you want "real wide angle" on APS-C sensored DSLRs, there are basically 3 zooms to consider at reasonable price/performance levels
* *EF-S 10-18 IS STM* - compact and light, decent IQ, Image stabilizer, STM AF drive, very good price/performance, APS-C only ["DX"]
* *EF-S 10-22* - very good IQ (slightly better than 10-18), better build, decent price, APS-C only ["DX"]
* *EF 16-35 / 4.0 L IS* - fairly new L-Zoom, *L*uxury price, but excellent IQ, very good "pro" build quality, Image stabilizer, suitable also for full frame ["FX"] 

All other Canon (ultra)wide-angle lenses 28mm and shorter either have poor image quality [especially all EF prime lenses other than 24/2.8 IS and 28/2.8 IS but also EF 17-40/4.0 L ... or are more expensive than optical quality warrants [namely EF 14/2.8 L] or are very large and without AF [namely tilt shift lenses, TSE-E 17/4, 24/3.5] 

Welcome to Canon!


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## Helios68 (Nov 11, 2014)

Hi and welcome in the canon world !

+1 for EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5. It has a great image and build quality and is much cheaper than a L-Lens. It is also really useful for architecture and interiors.

As a prime the 50mm f/1.8 is really interesting. Good for low light, portrait, street and amazing cheap for its strengths. Less than 100$ maybe !

Regards


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## Marsu42 (Nov 11, 2014)

Helios68 said:


> Less than 100$ maybe



... which is about $100 too much for two pieces of mediocre glass in a plastic shell an outdated af motor from several decades ago. Even Yongnuo had the good sense to copy Canon's 50/1.4, if there is a cheap pime out there then this is probably a better choice.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Nov 11, 2014)

If you plan to get a FF in 6 months, the 16-35mm f/4 will work on both. If you buy the 16-35mm and want a prime, a 50mm lens will fill the gap. They vary n price by a extreme amount. You pay a lot to get a little better IQ, but also get better build.

On FF, the Canon 50mm f/1.4 is good for the price. For a Crop, the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 is best. Its optimized for crop, and edges suffer on a FF body, but its very good in the center. Watch out for AF issues though.


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## AcutancePhotography (Nov 11, 2014)

jrista said:


> Welcome aboard, pcdebb. Welcome to the Canon side.  It's whiter over here.
> You should also learn the difference in mounts.....



I think this post should be made a sticky for new people to read. I have seldom read such a concise explaination of the Canon line of products.

Nicely written.


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## ajfotofilmagem (Nov 11, 2014)

Welcome to CanonRumors.

If you want to buy a full frame camera soon, it is desirable to buy only EF lenses now, for compatibility with your future camera.

On the other hand, if you will not buy a full frame next year, buy EF (primes) and also EF-S (zoom).

EF prime lenses with great image quality, and modest price: 
*EF 24mm F2.8 IS*
*EF 28mm F2.8 IS*
*EF 35mm F2 IS*
*EF 40mm F2.8 STM*
*EF 100mm F2*
*EF 100mm F2.8 Macro*
*EF 100mm F2.8L Macro IS*
*EF 135mm F2L*

Where are the lens between 40mm and 100mm?  ???
This region has some weaknesses in image quality: :
*EF 50mm F1.8* (sharp when stopped down to F2.8 or more closed, and fragile mechanical)
*EF 50mm F1.4* (sharp when stopped down to F2.5 or more closed.
*EF 50mm F2.5 Macro* (only 0.5X magnification)
*EF 85mm F1.8* (sharp when stopped down to F2.5 and suffers from purple fringing in high-contrast images)

EF-S prime lenses:
*EF-S 24mm F2.8 STM*
*EF-S 60mm F2.8 Macro*
Only that? :'(

EF-S zoom lens with good image quality: 
*EF-S 10-18mm F4.5-5.6 STM*
*EF-S 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 STM*
*EF-S 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 STM*
*EF-S 55-250mm F4-5.6 STM*
*EF-S 10-22mm F3.5-4.5*
*EF-S 15-85mm F3.5-5.6*
*EF-S 17-55mm F2.8*


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## Maximilian (Nov 11, 2014)

Hello pcdebb and welcome to CR!

Right now I have nothing to add to all the good posts here. Sorry.

But out of curiosity:


pcdebb said:


> ... shot Nikon for years, but i've just switched over to Canon. ...


Why?

Thank you for your reply.


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## Maximilian (Nov 11, 2014)

AcutancePhotography said:


> jrista said:
> 
> 
> > Welcome aboard, pcdebb. Welcome to the Canon side.  It's whiter over here.
> ...


+1 Well done jrista.


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## Hillsilly (Nov 11, 2014)

I agree, too. You should consider compiling some of your posts and turn them into a photography book.


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## pcdebb (Nov 11, 2014)

Thank you all so much for the responses! Some of the glass you have all mentioned is already on my radar, so I'm on the right track 



Maximilian said:


> ... shot Nikon for years, but i've just switched over to Canon. ...


Why?

Thank you for your reply.
[/quote]
I know it sounds wierd, but the camera feels better in my hands. I was out and about a few weeks ago, and a lady and her friend were out as well. She asked me to take a pic of them with her Canon. I was impressed. I dont know if it's build quality or not. I've been looking at Canon gear for a while anyway but just never acted on it. I'm already comfortable with the menu layouts of the camera, I can find everything and change it quickly. I dont want to say Nikon is cheaply built, but it felt that way in comparison.


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## jrista (Nov 11, 2014)

pcdebb said:


> I know it sounds wierd, but the camera feels better in my hands. I was out and about a few weeks ago, and a lady and her friend were out as well. She asked me to take a pic of them with her Canon. I was impressed. I dont know if it's build quality or not. I've been looking at Canon gear for a while anyway but just never acted on it. I'm already comfortable with the menu layouts of the camera, I can find everything and change it quickly. I dont want to say Nikon is cheaply built, but it felt that way in comparison.




You will probably find that one of the key things that keeps people using Canon is the ergonomics and button placement. Many of us desperately want the sensor IQ of a Nikon, but are unwilling to really give up our Canon bodies. Personally, I think Canon DSLR body ergonomics and button placement are at the pinnacle of DSLR design. They fit my hands perfectly, have ever since the 7D. It's just one of the thing that I think Canon does better. (And trust me, I am the first to admit Canon has their faults...there are some things about Canon I just downright do not like.)


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## Larry (Nov 11, 2014)

jrista said:


> Welcome aboard, pcdebb. Welcome to the Canon side.  It's whiter over here.



Jrista,

Terrific write-up! Definitely going into my files.

Thanks for the time and effort.

FWIW, did I miss something, or was mention of "STM" lenses absent?


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## jrista (Nov 11, 2014)

Larry said:


> jrista said:
> 
> 
> > Welcome aboard, pcdebb. Welcome to the Canon side.  It's whiter over here.
> ...




STM, USM, and all the various acronyms that often get attached to lenses was something I skipped. I guess I could get into that, but I covered all that a long time ago here:


http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/496/what-do-all-those-cryptic-number-and-letter-codes-in-a-lens-name-mean/508#508


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## Larry (Nov 11, 2014)

jrista said:


> STM, USM, and all the various acronyms that often get attached to lenses was something I skipped. I guess I could get into that, but I covered all that a long time ago here:
> 
> 
> http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/496/what-do-all-those-cryptic-number-and-letter-codes-in-a-lens-name-mean/508#508



Thanks for the link (and the reply).


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## Maximilian (Nov 12, 2014)

pcdebb said:


> I know it sounds wierd, but the camera feels better in my hands.


pcdebb, that's not weird. 
That's just the point really often mentioned here when the gearheads are bashing on measurements, sensor performance, etc.: 
That Canon cameras for many people have the better feel, ergonomics, menu, user interface. 
And the "better" sensors do not matter (that much) in real world performance.

I was quite impressed, when I played around with a 100D/SL1 to see that menu guidance and help functions displayed there. A really good help for beginners and somehow some kind of on screen/on site (basic) tutorial.

But of course, if you once get used to "your" manufacturers ergonomics/user interface it's also not that important anymore.

So enjoy your new equipment and be sure to find good help and answer here. The people sharing their knowledge here are quite fantastic.


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## e17paul (Nov 12, 2014)

Maximilian said:


> pcdebb said:
> 
> 
> > I know it sounds wierd, but the camera feels better in my hands.
> ...



+1. That's important and rarely mentioned. 

I chose the 6D over D600 and other controls because all of the controls apart from Menu and Info are accessible with the right hand. This gives me full control and even chimping while using the left hand to keep hold onto a ladder.


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## Valvebounce (Nov 12, 2014)

Hi e17paul. 
TUT TUT didn't your health and safety advisor tell you ladders are for access not working from?  : ;D Not that I haven't and wouldn't do the same! Just use some common sense and keep the risk to a minimum!

Reminds me of a story told to me by my dad, the H&S man was visiting the site and they had to work on a clock tower that had no access from the ground to the third floor, after that there was internal stairs to the sixth floor where the clock was, so a ladder up the outside to the door secured at the bottom, 
H&S man says "you can't go up that until the top is secured" 
Dad says "I'm going up to secure the top!"
H&S man says "you can't go up that until the top is secured" 
Dad says "show me how to secure the top?" 
H&S man says "it's not my job to show you how to do your job!" 
Dad says "that suits me, your just waiting breath and my time if you can't tell me how to do it!" And went up the ladder and secured the top! 
Why do some Health and Safety advisors have to have a commonsenseectomy? 

Cheers, Graham. 



e17paul said:


> +1. That's important and rarely mentioned.
> 
> I chose the 6D over D600 and other controls because all of the controls apart from Menu and Info are accessible with the right hand. This gives me full control and even chimping while using the left hand to keep hold onto a ladder.


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## Maximilian (Nov 12, 2014)

Valvebounce said:


> Dad says "that suits me, your just waiting breath and my time if you can't tell me how to do it!" And went up the ladder and secured the top!
> Why do some Health and Safety advisors have to have a commonsenseectomy?


*lol* 
Because nobody with common sense would want to do that job? 
(And before anybody complains: that was a joke! )

That made my day. Thank you, Graham

Maybe your father also could have answered: "If you have now answer then please sh** up and hold the ladder tight so it cannot fall over while I'm going up to secure it."


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## Valvebounce (Nov 12, 2014)

Hi Maximilian. 
Glad you liked it, maybe one day there will be a topic that enables me to tell the one about the time and motion study! 

Cheers, Graham. 



Maximilian said:


> Valvebounce said:
> 
> 
> > Dad says "that suits me, your just waiting breath and my time if you can't tell me how to do it!" And went up the ladder and secured the top!
> ...


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## tayassu (Nov 12, 2014)

Welcome in the Canon world and CR! 

I'd recommend the Canon 10-18 or the Tokina 12-28/4 as wide angle (depending on your budget) and the 35/2 as a fast prime.


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## pcdebb (Nov 13, 2014)

tayassu said:


> Welcome in the Canon world and CR!
> 
> I'd recommend the Canon 10-18 or the Tokina 12-28/4 as wide angle (depending on your budget) and the 35/2 as a fast prime.



Thank you! Will look at those.


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## wsmith96 (Nov 13, 2014)

Lots of great info here. 

I recommend checking out the 35mm f2 is for your prime and the ef-s 10-22 for your wide angle lens.
Welcome to the group!


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