# Shooting in a Dark Skating Arena Advice



## wylee (Oct 15, 2014)

Hi All,

I was approached by my kids skating club to take photos of their end of the season gala. I'm a decent shot with my T5i and with my Sigma 70-200 f2.8 I can usually get decent photos sticking around ISO 800 (although brightly lit, the lighting is pretty horrible and have to balance shutter speed, aperture and ISO to freeze the action). I said yes thinking that it was still going to be in brightly lit. Then at the first gala meeting I was told that they go really elaborate with sets with lasers, spot lights and of course most of the arena lighting is turned off for the show ???

This will be a great learning experience, however I'm not sure my current camera body is up for the job. It's a great camera for when lighting is good (even on cloudy, rainy days), and the crop factor is nice for the reach, but when it comes to working in dark conditions anything over ISO 800 takes a lot of work to reduce the noise. Anyway, I'm looking for any advice regarding:

* Technique; I practice shooting at the area every week, so I'll be comfortable with the routines, so any words of wisdom on how to setup for the shots would be appreciated (e.g. should I sit at one side of the arena, the middle, should I be on a tripod to reduce camera shake?).
* If I need to rent equipment, what would you recommend? If the skaters are brightly lit at all times, how high an ISO would I need to freeze the action with my T5i, or to be safe should I go rent a body and stick with my 70-200mm lens?

Thanks in Advance!


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Oct 15, 2014)

First, be aware that a strike from a laser light show on your camera when the shutter is open will burn a track across the sensor. This is a really nasty issue for those trying to do video of a laser show, since the sensor is exposed all the time. Its less likely when you are taking stills at a fast shutter speed, but you will need a new sensor if it happens, a new camera will cost less.


I'd think I'd struggle at ISO 25600 and a f/2.8 lens in the situation. Your shutter speed needs to be high, and that makes it difficult. I photograph low light theater performances, its tough even with my 5D MK III.

I'd rent a 6D and a 135mm f/2, and plan on using very high ISO. You just can't get away with slow shutter speeds of moving people. I'd want to use 1/320 or faster with my 135mmL. It is very usable at f/2.

I've tried ISO 25600 at f/2.8 and 1/250 sec of a ballet dancer. The shutter speed was too slow. The Noise was extreme, but for a print, it will look ok.


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## Hannes (Oct 15, 2014)

I think managing expectations will need to be key. Be honest and tell them your gear won't really cope that well with the light setting but that you will give it your best shot. If you're up for renting gear get a 6D with the 135 f2 as suggested, tripod would be a good idea for the times when you can drop your ISO on more stationary subjects and still get a sharp shot (maybe with the rebel and 70-200), be prepared to move around though. I can't imagine it'll be too dark as otherwise the kids won't be able to see what they are doing.

If you have a chance, ask them and get them to show you beforehand just how dark they were planning on having it. It will give you an idea of what to expect and how far your body and lens will manage.


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## Hjalmarg1 (Oct 15, 2014)

Hi,

t5i won't cope with the event. Rent a FF body (i'd prefer 5D3 for better AF and higher burst rate) so you can raise the ISO and get high shutter speeds. If you plan to use auto ISO setting, select center-weight because your objetive are the players, not the environment.
The 135mm f2L is a great alternative, it produces very sharp results even wide open and has very fast AF.
Otherwise, be honest and don't live up their expectations, explaining the limitation of your gear.


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## wylee (Oct 15, 2014)

Thanks everyone for the advice.

I figured as much that my camera body won't cope very well due to the lighting conditions and considering renting/borrowing equipment. I'll definitely check out the 135mm f2 and see rent the 5d3 and 6D a few times to see which one I feel most comfortable with.

Burning out the sensor... never really thought about that. I'll see about where they're positioning the equipment and timing when it'll be used for those routines to see if I can mark out a spot where I won't be directly hit.


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## tss68nl (Oct 15, 2014)

If you're going to rent.... rent a 5DIII. The focus system of the 6D just isn't good enough to photograph moving objects. I own both a 6D and 7D, and the former is hopeless on moving subjects compared to the 7D. The 5DIII has the best of both worlds.

As for the lens... the 135 is nice but you do lose some reach in favor of an extra stop. And you already lost quite some reach moving to FF. That's a tough one...


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## jepabst (Oct 15, 2014)

I don't have much to add to the above; I think there are great tips/advice here. The only thing I would add, in situations like these is to go ahead and shoot at slower shutters, even though many will be missed. Just overshoot at shutter speeds around 1/60th - there will be more work in Post, but it's something to consider where light is a real issue.


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## wylee (Oct 15, 2014)

Thanks @tss68nl. 

From the quality of the photos in terms of noise that the 5D3 produces should I be able to crop the photos decently if I can't get close enough? 





tss68nl said:


> If you're going to rent.... rent a 5DIII. The focus system of the 6D just isn't good enough to photograph moving objects. I own both a 6D and 7D, and the former is hopeless on moving subjects compared to the 7D. The 5DIII has the best of both worlds.
> 
> As for the lens... the 135 is nice but you do lose some reach in favor of an extra stop. And you already lost quite some reach moving to FF. That's a tough one...


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## Besisika (Oct 15, 2014)

I think everything to be said is already said as far as freezing the actions go.
I am not sure what a gala is. 
If it has a part where they move fast on ice, you could try some panning as well. 1/30th would suffice and F2.8 or 2 would be enough. And if you have a good monopod you could go as low as 1/15th. I would try some bikes outside to get used to it first.
You can not rely on it entirely to tell the story though, but if works well could deliver some good result on top of the static shots.


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## Steve (Oct 15, 2014)

Just make peace with the idea that the photos are going to be really really really noisy. Virtually guaranteed that you will care more about it than they will. Don't shoot slow shutters - noisy photos are better than blurry photos. If you're up for spending your own money and renting a better body, great, do that but its still going to be a crazy noise fest. If you do rent, though, you might as well rent a 1DX because why the hell not? Might as well go for broke and have some fun with some fancy gear. Do camera places even bother to rent 6D's?


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## wylee (Oct 15, 2014)

Besisika said:


> I think everything to be said is already said as far as freezing the actions go.
> I am not sure what a gala is.
> If it has a part where they move fast on ice, you could try some panning as well. 1/30th would suffice and F2.8 or 2 would be enough. And if you have a good monopod you could go as low as 1/15th. I would try some bikes outside to get used to it first.
> You can not rely on it entirely to tell the story though, but if works well could deliver some good result on top of the static shots.



Consider a gala like an amateur "Stars on Ice". Skating routines of one or more people on the ice with sets/props. Unlike competition that you see on TV where they are skating in a brightly lit arena so the judges can see everything, this is more entertainment value so the lights are off, spotlights are on the skaters and some special effects like pyrotechnics. 

Didn't think about grabbing a monopod... that may give me some flexibility and added stability. Thanks for the idea!


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## Act444 (Oct 15, 2014)

Hi, I have a little experience having shot a few skating shows recently...

One of the only situations I tend to prefer APS-C to FF...so I can get additional reach out of my 70-200. The downside is the noise...but at the required ISOs to stop the action you will get a good amount of noise with ANY camera. 

But - I will say that even though I've been disappointed with noise levels (esp. using 7D and ISO 3200), not one person I've shown the pics to complained about the quality. So I wouldn't worry so much about noise...I would instead emphasize AF tracking technique and fast shutter speeds (I use 1/500 but for slower skaters you can get away with 320)...hope that helps. 

Your T5i will do OK but if you want something better, try a 70D...or if the 7D II is available at the time of your show, that's another option. If you MUST have FF, I would go straight for a 5D III at minimum (if not a 1D series). The 6D is merely average at tracking and you will notice little difference in hit rate..


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## dcm (Oct 15, 2014)

I did this when my kids skated in annual ice shows for several years - on film, manual focus. Fast lens and shutters are key. With digital I would use manual, spot metering and let the camera adjust the ISO. You will need a camera with good focus tracking. The occasional blur in a spin or jump can be interesting so a slow shutter can also be fun. Much of the shooting will focus on individual skaters in spotlights. However, there are occasions/sets with general scene lighting that a fast wide angle is needed. 

My advice, go to some of the last practice sessions and the dress rehearsal. The practice sessions will help you with the flows on the ice and the key locations you may want to shoot - pay attention to the choreography. Lighting and costumes may be missing at these but its a good chance to practice tracking your targets under good light and see the backgrounds. Shooting from center ice may not be ideal, just outside the neutral zone / blue lines is usually better. The dress rehearsal is a good way to shoot everyone in costume with the planned lighting. Its the time to dial in your settings and get some more practice. I often got some keepers from both. 

Our club did 3-4 shows each year (Friday/Saturday/Sunday) and I tended to shoot more than one event. This helps if you want to shoot some wide angle to mix with the telephoto and is easier than handling two bodies in the dark. There are also times when 2 or more groups are on the ice at a time which makes it hard to get both. Shoot from different locations if you attend multiple events. It also helps because you never know which times they will skate clean versus fall. If you only have one show, then the dress rehearsal is your backup so treat it the same. 

Other parents usually aren't as critical. It will be better than anything they get from the stands with a P&S. And they will more likely be using a video camera or buy a video if the club has one made.


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## FTb-n (Oct 15, 2014)

This question is right up my alley. My daughter skates with a local club and now at the level where she earns solos in the annual ice show, she has her Axel and several doubles in her repertoire. Shooting ice shows is the reason that I invested in my 70-200 f2.8L II. It's also the reason why I upgraded from an XT to a 60D, then a 7D, and now a 5D3. A 1Dx would be great, but frankly the 5D3 is filling my needs quite well.

Your T5i can handle this, but if you are going to rent, rent a 5D3. With either body, your ISO will be between 1600 and 3200. I will often go beyond.

Whether its your T5i or a rented 5D3, get to know the camera. Know how to change settings and how navigate the menu before you get to the rink. Be prepared to trouble-shoot an errant setting and to change a shooting mode in a hurry and in the dark.

Lightroom 5 is great for noise reduction. You need more with the crop body than the with the 5D3. Shoot RAW.

The key is to get lots of practice. I assume that your rink is built for hockey. The best vantage point is the players box. It gets you at ice level and you avoid the plexiglass. The 70-200 on the 5D3 has great range from this position. I typically shoot in landscape. With a crop body, things can get tight when the skater gets close forcing a vertical shot. I use a monopod with a Manfrotto tilt head and quick release. I use the collar on the lens and the tilt head on the monopod lets me tilt up or down. The collar gives me the horizontal to vertical option.

Shutter speed will vary with the talent of the skater and the action on the ice. 1/200 minimum for younger skaters and spirals. Pan with the skater when you shoot. For rotational jumps, 1/500 is minimum. When I shot with the 7D, I was at first afraid to go beyond 1600 and often lived with shutter speeds of 1/320-1/500. Today, I typically shoot 1/500 to 1/1000. A sharp noisy photo is better than a blurry clean one. It's easier to clean up noise than blur.

With my 70-200, cropping a shot from the 5D3 is sharper and cleaner than one from my 7D.

With the 5D3, I shoot with high FPS setting, AI SERVO, spot focusing with 8 expansion points, AF Case 2 (yes, I prefer this over Case 5 which is for erratic movement), back-button focusing, spot or partial metering, manual mode, RAW, AWB, f2.8, shutter 1/500-1/1000, and ISO 2000-4000.

Regarding the IS on your lens, leave it on. Above 1/500, it may not help, but it doesn't hurt and it will help if you must go lower. Lately, I shoot a lot at 1/1000 with it on and off and cannot say that I've noticed a difference. The biggest problem with turning it off is forgetting to turn it back on when you need it, like with a shot backstage.

Anticipation is key. Shoot during practice so you know the routines and practice your timing. Unless you use a 1Dx with 12 FPS, do NOT rely on spray and pray to get the shot. Even with the 8 FPS of the 7D, burst mode is no substitute for timing. Surprisingly, I am more likely to burst during a slow spiral than a fast jump. With the spiral, I'm looking for background and little happens between frames. With jumps, a lot can happen between frames at 8 FPS. Split jumps are often the best to shoot because you can get some hang time at the peek of the jump. I do often burst a couple frames when I try to get the apex of the jump (sometimes due to a heavy finger). This is what you want to shoot. For rotational jumps, get the take-off, try to get the apex, than the the landing. Single jumps are tough. If the skater is facing you during the take-off and landing, they then face away from you during the apex of the jump. Just about ever point in between these can be very unflattering.

The 7d and the 5D3 are great for tracking the skater. Use AI Servo. But understand how it works. It keeps track of movement to predict where the subject will be when you trip the shutter. Skater's change direction frequently and can through off the AI Servo. This is a bigger problem for Rebel's than the 7D and 5D3. To get around this, get in the habit of lifting your finger off the shutter briefly when the skater changes direction. I assume that you are "riding" the shutter (or back focus button) to track the skater. With AI Servo, ride it, that is, be sure to pre-focus for at least second before shooting. This gives the chip more info to predict the focus when the shutter trips.

The other issue that you will run into with the 5Ti is it's buffer. Even if you aren't bursting lots of shots, you can still shoot a bunch in a hurry and fill up that buffer. The key here is to know the routine and don't fill the buffer getting the take-off to a jump. Save a couple frames for the apex and landing.

Again, practice, practice, practice. Practice to know figure skating so that you can see when a skater is getting ready for a jump and zoom so they don't jump out of the frame. Watch for sit spins, skaters often go into a standing spin and out of your frame if you are too tight. Practice timing spins. Practice to learn the routines. Practice to learn the limits of your camera. If there's a dress rehearsal, this can be your best chance to get shots and to learn how the lighting will be.

Figure skating is about the skating. Full body shots are often best. Save the closeups for ending poses.

I prefer to shoot in manual mode and pick an ISO that supports shutter speeds of 1/1000 when all spot lights are on the skater. I then bump the shutter speed down when fewer spots are on the skater. Chimp a lot so you know that your exposure is in the range. You will get to the point where you know what shutter speed to use with 4 spots vs. 3 vs. 2 vs. 1. I don't like auto exposure because the background and or the costumes are rarely 18% gray.

I must note that I have had a lot of good luck with 1/500. It all depends upon the skills and speed of the skater.

Check out this link for more detail. Scroll to the bottom for a complete write-up on shooting ice shows. This was written after a show in 2012 that was shot with a 7D -- before any experience with the 5D3.

http://www.skatetheoval.com/page/show/281573-photo-gallery

This link includes exhibition galleries. Those after April 2013 were shot with the 5D3. Sorry, don't have the 2013 or 2014 show photos posted here. But, the 2012 show photos are.

Here is a gallery of shots from the 2012 show shot with the 7D. Shutter speed range was typically 1/250-1/640 with ISO 1600-3200 -- maybe half at 1600 and half at 3200.

http://www.skatetheoval.com/photo_gallery/show/580178#1

Hope this helps.


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## Besisika (Oct 15, 2014)

FTb-n said:


> http://www.skatetheoval.com/page/show/281573-photo-gallery
> 
> This link includes exhibition galleries. Those after April 2013 were shot with the 5D3. Sorry, don't have the 2013 or 2014 show photos posted here. But, the 2012 show photos are.
> 
> ...


That is a very good reference. Both the theory and samples should be helpful.
Thanks for sharing.


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## jdramirez (Oct 15, 2014)

I tried shooting my daughter's birthday party at a skating rink... meh... at best.

I'll share what I can, but I wouldn't promise excellence.

Can you share backwards and at a constant pace as your subject. If so, that might make for some decent second shutter flash images.

I tried to bounce the light off of a wall, can't do the ceiling because they are to high. But that limited my mobility. I tried using off cameraflash using a diffuser, but my daughter complained because it ed Dahl, so the flash blinded her for a second... so that's out.

I tried long exposures, but that's just a mess of arms and you can't tell what anything is. 

F2.8 just really doesn't get the job done. Heck, I'm not sure f1.2 can get the job done without flash. I hate skate Paris so much because they are moving towards you or away... so focus is an issue.

Good luck.. honestly...


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## captainkanji (Oct 15, 2014)

The 6D/135 f2 is a great combo for low light shooting. If you are used to the AF, it's not hard. If you use a flash, I'd suggest second curtain sync.


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## Act444 (Oct 15, 2014)

I will say this: do NOT use flash!! Especially if you are front row. It's a safety issue (skaters can be blinded...).

Just use high ISO as necessary and live with the noise.


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## jdramirez (Oct 15, 2014)

Any YouTube videos that you can reference so we have a sense of whether this is a dance routine, a skating routine like you might see from a band on a field, etc. 

I'm having a hard time figuring out what you will be shooting.


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## FTb-n (Oct 15, 2014)

Not all rinks or all ice shows are lit the same way. But in my experience, with roughly 10,000-15,000 images a year of skating, the 70-200 f2.8L II is a great lens to use. Its range is perfect on the 5D3 if you can shoot from the boards in the players box. It also works well with crop, but can get tight when the skater nears your side of the rink.

Spotlights are generally quite bright. With soloists, you can have four spots on the skater. ISO 1600, f2.8, at 1/500 can work well. Although, I now shoot more at 3200 and between 1/500 and 1/1000.

For full frame, I would hesitate going wider than 2.8. Tiny DOF on moving skaters is not very forgiving. Keep in mind that most often you end up tracking the torso of the skater, but it's the eyes that you want in focus. They could be in a different plane, so some DOF is helpful.


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## jdramirez (Oct 16, 2014)

Here's a mediocre photo. I was shooting at 200mm, f/2.8, 1/50 of a second, and 6400 iso on my 5d mkiii... and it is pretty awful. 

The kid falls, which is always fun, but it was just too damn dark.


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## wylee (Oct 16, 2014)

jdramirez said:


> Any YouTube videos that you can reference so we have a sense of whether this is a dance routine, a skating routine like you might see from a band on a field, etc.
> 
> I'm having a hard time figuring out what you will be shooting.



I'm supposed to get a CD of what was done last year, but from my discussions it sounds like it'll be similarly lit like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BpFL1tA6lY


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## dcm (Oct 16, 2014)

BTW: Some of the best shots are impromptu before, like applying makeup or queuing up to go on the ice, and afterwards where the kids milled around on the ice with their friends after the lights came back up. My kids have as many of those shots in their albums as the money shots when they were performing. For them it was about the whole experience with their friends, not just the performance itself where they were often skating solo or in a different group than their friends.


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## jdramirez (Oct 16, 2014)

wylee said:


> jdramirez said:
> 
> 
> > Any YouTube videos that you can reference so we have a sense of whether this is a dance routine, a skating routine like you might see from a band on a field, etc.
> ...



You're screwed. But give it the best you got.

I would spot meter, I would only focus with the center AF point, I would probably also lean toward the 135L f/2... for the extra stop of light, and because it has a really good AF motor. I have an 85L mkii and anything moving can be a challenge, so the extra stop and change wouldn't help me because everyone would be blurry. 

For that type of show... you can't use flash... but you can use the spotlight which has to be your best friend. So follow that around. Tripod... monopod... either or... but the 135L, the 85mm f/1.8, or the 100mm f/2 all lack IS. If you have a buddy in the neighborhood with a 200mm f/2 IS, that might be your best bet. Feel free to rent, but this is a challenge and a 1/2 regardless of the body and the lens combo. 

The other day in the dark I was using the 5D mkiii and I had to resort to only using the center AF point because it was the most sensitive. So the other 76ish points won't make a huge difference. So I'd probably lean towards the 6D as well. 

I'd also suggesting using something with the IR beams for focus. I used the yongnuo 622c transmitter even when I wasn't using off camera flash, because the ir beams really came in handy to lock onto your target... having said that... a red grid on the performers might be distracting to the show... 

Also, see if they will agree to wear a white and black checkerboard outfit... because that will also help to lock focus. 

I'd shoot in manual, set your shutter speed, open the aperture wide, and then let the camera adjust for iso... For movement, I'd agree that 1/500th is better... but I might try to get away with 1/250 if they are slowing skating... but getting those shutterspeeds... again... good luck.


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## FTb-n (Oct 16, 2014)

jdramirez said:


> You're screwed. But give it the best you got.



Nonsense. If your show is lit with spotlights like the Stars on Ice video, no problem. Use the 70-200 f2.8 -- perfect lens for this. 5Ti or 5D3, use ISO 1600-3200, shutter speeds to 1/320-1/500 for younger kids, 1/500-1/1000 for more advanced skaters who can perform rotational jumps -- flips, lutz, etc. Check out my post on page one of this thread.


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## Besisika (Oct 16, 2014)

jdramirez said:


> You're screwed. But give it the best you got.


Actually, it is not that bad.
In fact, I wish you were here in Montreal, I would like an opportunity like this.
But I am with a 1DX.

To begin with, as someone earlier stated, if you know well the person who asked you to do the job, set his expecation and say that the images will be noisy. That will take a lot of presure off your shoulder.

I see 4 opportunities and you can use all 4 of them interchangably.
1 - when they don't move; you can go as low as 1/100th 
2 - when the boy is skating (I dont' know the terminology so I would call it sliding); follow his movement by panning with the same speed and then shoot. Take the time to match the speed of your panning with his sliding then; a- when the girl is coming up or down without rotation: those can be shot with a low shutter speed as well because you pan with him (1/100th), b- when the girl is spinning: you can use whether 1/200-300th and show some blurr to show the movement (rember: he is in sharp focus because you pan with him) or higher shutter speed and freeze her (these are the ones with remarkable noise).
3 - Pan with 1/30th (or 50th at most). You will have low keeper but these are my favourites.
4 - totally freeze.

It is totally ok to have some photos with noise. Don't wory too much about it. But when you have the chance provide something without noise as well (that would be option 1 and 3 - see what DCM said). They will take the customer's worry away.

I am not sure how advanced your sport photography skill but it should be ok.
I can't guess from the video if the ISO should be 1600 or 3200 (rarely 6400) and as FTb-n said check his post, I saw some very good examples and suggestion in there. 
If you are not familiar with prime, go with the 70-200 and rent a 5D mk iii or if you are ok go with the 135 f2 (but it will be a bit short often and croping will emphasize more the noise). You should crop only to corret your angles.

Good luck but most of all have fun!
You should be ok.


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## Hjalmarg1 (Oct 16, 2014)

Wylee,

if you want to freeze action, your priority will be shutter speed. Your 70-200mm f2.8L IS II should get the job done. But be prepared to increase your ISO setting and resulting noise. Again, 5D3 will give you good images until ISO 1,600 and acceptable until 6,400.
Manual focus and center weighted or spot metering would be convenient and using the center focus points for more accurate focussing under low light.


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## Don Haines (Oct 16, 2014)

I am probably going to get shot for saying this on a Canon forum, but if you are thinking of renting...... Why not a Sony A7S?

It is the low light king.... And apparently the right tool for the job.....


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## jdramirez (Oct 16, 2014)

Don Haines said:


> I am probably going to get shot for saying this on a Canon forum, but if you are thinking of renting...... Why not a Sony A7S?
> 
> It is the low light king.... And apparently the right tool for the job.....



That's funny.


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## FTb-n (Oct 16, 2014)

From a lighting perspective, this isn't that tough. Roller skating rinks, "moonlight bowling", and wedding receptions can be tough. But, this isn't tough at all for current Canon crop and FF bodies.

The key is to have bodies and optics that can track the skater and stay on focus without hunting. F2.8 glass or wider will best leverage those cross-type focus points. Focus speed of the 70-200 Mark II is fantastic. Combine this with the 7D or 5D3 AF system, and tracking the skater is a breeze. The 5D3 is particularly good at this with it's 8 expansion points. 

I can't say this enough - *those spotlights are you friends*. They can be very bright! You don't need a flash (and shouldn't use one here). Ice shows typically have four spots and with solos, all four are on the skater. At any given time two-three will give you direct front and side lighting.

In fact, one tip that I missed is to turn on the highlight warning. It's ok if you blowout some of the ice, but you don't want to blowout a skater's costume. With these spots, this can happen.

Seriously, there will be enough light. 

You will have to adjust to rapidly changing light levels. When there are multiple skaters on the ice, there may only be one or two spots on a skater at a time. Two more tips:

1. USFSA or ISI skate club shows with multiple skaters are often choreographed to give one skater his/her time in the spotlight. This is where the single skater skates center ice and does a spiral or a jump. Be ready for this. All spots will be on the skater at this time. And, it will be the best chance to get a good shot of the skaters doing their best elements.

2. At the end of a routine, during a finish pose, spotlights often pan across the skaters. If you need or see a shot of a particular skater, focus on them, set your shutter speed for one full spot, and wait for the spotlight to pan across the skater. Be ready, especially if the spot operator is "pan happy." This can offer some great photo opportunities. The side lighting of a single spot on a skater in his/her finish pose can be great.

Lighting can easily be conquered. Practice getting the shot. Practice during ice show practice. 

With many skaters, there are one or two particularly good moments in their routine that you want to capture. Look for those. Spirals offer a great opportunity. Take note where they do them so you can get a shot with the skater doing a spiral heading toward you or across your field of view. 

Split jumps offer some of the best jump shots because it's a jump where the skater typically poses in the air -- with a smile. Better skaters will give you hang time. Be sure to know where they do the split jump and which side of the rink they face so you can position yourself accordingly. 

Some of the great Olympic shots are of skaters in the apex of a triple jump. But, this can vary widely with the skater. Different skaters have different facial expressions during rotational jumps. Some can hold a smile throughout the jump. Others show the look of pain on their face. This can lead to some unflattering shots. Split jumps are often more flattering.

Here's a link to a few shots of soloists from this year's show. All shot with a 5D3, 70-200, ISO 4000, f2.8, and most at 1/500.

http://www.skatetheoval.com/photo_gallery/show/829409#2

Here's the link previously posted to the 2012 show, all shot with the 7D, ISO 1600-3200.

http://www.skatetheoval.com/photo_gallery/show/580178#15


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## wylee (Oct 17, 2014)

Thanks everyone for the advice, technique and equipment! After the gala I'll post some pics!


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## Besisika (Oct 17, 2014)

wylee said:


> Thanks everyone for the advice, technique and equipment! After the gala I'll post some pics!


That would be nice!
We all can learn through your experience.
If you are not shy, post some of the failures as well so we can discuss.
Thanks in advance.


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## FTb-n (Oct 17, 2014)

wylee said:


> Thanks everyone for the advice, technique and equipment! After the gala I'll post some pics!


One last tip. If this is a multiple day event, take the time to review your photos on your computer after each shot. I learn a lot about what worked and what didn't when I review my photos and often alter my strategy for the next day's shoot.

Have fun. I hope that you find it as rewarding as I do!!


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## Besisika (Oct 17, 2014)

FTb-n said:


> wylee said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks everyone for the advice, technique and equipment! After the gala I'll post some pics!
> ...


Great tip!
I review all my photos from previous years before I go on any annual event. One of the reasons why I don't delete any of my files.


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## EricPvpi (Oct 20, 2014)

FTb-n said:


> wylee said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks everyone for the advice, technique and equipment! After the gala I'll post some pics!
> ...



FTb-n - Really liked your comments on this topic. My daughter is competing Freestyle 3, Syncro, and Production Team this year. Earlier this year I upgraded to the 5D3 to be able to capture this, currently using 70-200 f/4L IS. At her level last year I could shoot 1/320. At some point, I'll probably upgrade to F/2.8 as she gets faster.

Curious if you change anything as you shoot a group of skaters. Are you going with f/2.8 always or stop down to get more of them in focus?

Thanks,
Eric


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## FTb-n (Oct 20, 2014)

EricPvpi said:


> Curious if you change anything as you shoot a group of skaters. Are you going with f/2.8 always or stop down to get more of them in focus?


Shooting freestyle groups can be tough, especially if the choreography has each skater doing photogenic elements in unison. I look for portions of the choreography that gives each skater a moment to shine alone. If you don't know the routine, it helps to be able to shoot with both eyes open so you can tell when another skater is preparing for a jump or another element. Still, you're going to miss a bunch of shots. For these groups, I keep it wide open and I'm primarily looking for individual shots.

Synchro is different and I will shoot wide open and stopped down to 4.5, maybe 5.6. If shooting from the boards, I like to get a shot wide open, looking down the line as they skate by with only the second or third skater in focus. If the line is skating toward me and perpendicular to my focal plane, I'll go wide open because shutter speed is more important here. If I try to get more skaters from a line in focus, stopping down means a slower shutter speed (or higher ISO) and I make sure to pan with the movement as I shoot. This helps if the skaters are moving at the same rate and not in a pinwheel.

When shooting competitions, I generally can't shoot from the boards so I forget about the more dramatic shots of looking down the line. Actually, I am more likely to shoot from the top of the bleachers with synchro so I can show the synchro elements as the judges see them. Hopefully, this means straight lines! The key is to find a point where you can look over the plexiglass and to be on the same side as the judges. Most routines are choreographed to face the side of the rink where the judges sit. In this case, I typically stop down to 4.5 or 5.6 and leave it there.

One nice plus to competitions is that you may get the chance to shoot in a rink used by a large university with LOTS of light. The shots in the gallery link below were shot at the home rink of the Minnesota Gophers hockey team. It was a dream to shoot with this much light. These shots were at ISO 4000, f4.5, and 1/640.

http://www.skatetheoval.com/page/show/281573-photo-gallery


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## wylee (Apr 2, 2015)

Hey Everyone,

Just thought I'd let everyone know how it went. I ended up shooting about 500 pics of the club's practice with my T5i getting used to the routines and pacing. For the show itself I rented a Canon 5DM3 and had about 3 days to get used to the camera. During the dress rehearsal I settled on 1600 ISO; my aperture mostly stayed at F2.8, sometimes F3.5 and I altered my shutter from 1/250 to 1/500 depending on how fast the skaters were moving. As for the lens I had a Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 for most of the time and once in a while I'd go into the stands to take wide shots of what was happening in the rink.

I still need to process all of the pics from the show; a few of them are attached to give you an idea of what I was able to capture.

Thanks again everyone for the advice!


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## FTb-n (Apr 2, 2015)

Great shots. Looks like you had a successful show. I hope that you find more gems in post. This is the rewarding part!


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## MJ (Apr 2, 2015)

FTb-n said:


> This question is right up my alley. My daughter skates with a local club and now at the level where she earns solos in the annual ice show, she has her Axel and several doubles in her repertoire. Shooting ice shows is the reason that I invested in my 70-200 f2.8L II. It's also the reason why I upgraded from an XT to a 60D, then a 7D, and now a 5D3. A 1Dx would be great, but frankly the 5D3 is filling my needs quite well.
> 
> Your T5i can handle this, but if you are going to rent, rent a 5D3. With either body, your ISO will be between 1600 and 3200. I will often go beyond.
> 
> ...





Wow, thank you for your helpful and extensive post!


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## FTb-n (Apr 2, 2015)

MJ said:


> Wow, thank you for your helpful and extensive post!


Glad to share. 

One update regarding 5D3 AF Cases. Generally, tracking in AI Servo has been quite good with Case 2. On occasion, I have lost focus during a burst and have been exploring other settings to prevent this. Over the past few months, I've been using Case 6 more often for both basketball and skating with better results. I'm currently revisiting Case 5 (which is meant for skating) and tweaking the settings. So far, this seems to have upped my keeper rate. It helps to shoot practice and to get better acquainted with the 5D3 settings.


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