# Gear for August Eclipse



## DanP (Apr 22, 2017)

I'll be going to Oregon to view the solar eclipse in August. Initially I was planning on taking 5D Mark III with 100-400L II and 1.4 & 2.0 III Extenders, G3X and G1X (IR Modified). I will need to take 3 tripods and will use a gimbal with the 5DIII and ball heads with the others. Naturally I want to take pictures of the eclipse progression and therefore need to use a filter until the sun is fully eclipsed. I will be using the Lee Big Stopper and Little Stopper stacked together and have tried this combination on both the 5DIII and G3X with full sun and it appears to work fine. I've taken test shots of the sun to get a starting point for manual settings, but will have to refine them just before the eclipse starts. I can't see any difference between the pictures of the full sun from the 5DIII and the G3X, which is probably not surprising given there's not much detail on the full sun (both showed a few sunspots, and they looked the same). If I want to use both cameras at the same time, I will have to get another filter, which is an added expense (looking at the Marumi 16.5 stop 77mm filter @USD125 @ B&H, but there's no ratings and it's special order (noncancelable and nonreturnable) - anyone used this?) I'm now wondering whether it is even worth taking the 5DIII if there's no real image quality difference between it and the G3X for this application. However, it would mean I'd be limited to 600mm rather than 800mm, but I suspect some of the corona at full eclipse may be cut off at 800mm (I'm not sure on this). I don't know if the lack of apparent image quality difference between the two cameras would also apply to the corona when the sun is fully eclipsed. I'm driving, so it's not a big deal to pack the extra equipment, but it means exposing more equipment to loss or theft. However, I also don't want to fall into the trap of spending the entire time adjusting equipment and shooting pictures and failing to just sit back and enjoy the 2 minute (or less) spectacle of full eclipse. I'd appreciate receiving advice from those of you with experience in shooting solar eclipses. Also, I have been advised to only use live view to set up the shots and to not look through the viewfinder (even with the filters on). So far I have heeded this advice, but suspect it is an overly cautious approach. I have an angle finder and think it may be useful for this application (let's not restart the flippy screen debate here). Your thoughts?


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Apr 22, 2017)

I've been considering it, since Spokane is not that far from the totality zone, but accommodations are mostly sold out, and driving that day will be really bad. I can envision the narrow roads I would be driving on with campers crowding both sides for 30 miles, and big crowds, along with 100 degree temperatures. We do have a friend who lives in Monmouth, OR, right in the center of the zone, but that's a long drive from us, and it might be overcast there.

I'd use liveview or a external monitor or linked tablet / iphone with a sun shade just because I could get sharper focus with a big display. I doubt that AF will be useful unless you have dual pixel AF and liveview.


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## rfdesigner (Apr 22, 2017)

Go Google Fred Espenak

He created an image of an eclipse in (I think) the 90s that blew away EVERY eclipse image before then, and frankly I've never seen that improved upon, coppied yes, tweaked yes, but not improved on.

see:

http://www.mreclipse.com/SEphoto/SEphoto.html


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## LDS (Apr 22, 2017)

Use a specific Sun filter. Photo filters are not designed to block all the wavelengths coming directly from the Sun. Otherwise you risk to damage your equipment, and, especially, your eyes.


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## Halfrack (Apr 22, 2017)

Both Lee and Marumi are handled by 2Filter.com - I'd recommend plotting accordingly and chatting with them. 

If you can do the 58mm 16.6 stop with the G1X and G3X and use your Lee's for the 5d mk3 it'd be a cheaper idea.


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## DanP (Apr 23, 2017)

LDS said:


> Use a specific Sun filter. Photo filters are not designed to block all the wavelengths coming directly from the Sun. Otherwise you risk to damage your equipment, and, especially, your eyes.



I did check with Lee Filters before trying the Big and Little Stopper filters stacked together, and they advised that the filters would be OK to use with live View, but not through the view finder. Perhaps that is because of the wavelength issue you pointed out. I hadn't thought of that - thanks. The Marumi is shown (on their website) as to be specifically for shooting the sun, but also shows the warning not to use the optical view finder.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Apr 23, 2017)

I ordered the Marumi from Amazon (77mm) for my 100-400L. I did more research as to the use of live view, it all depends on the filter you are using.

Baaden Planetary silver filters work fine with cameras, but let too much light thru to use with live view. Leaving the shutter open for long periods with too much light can fade the color in the micro lenses. Why risk it, get a strong filter like the Marumi, or use the viewfinder, short exposures are not going to damage the sensor or micro lenses. Both will work, but a different approach is needed.


ND filters let too much light thru to look at the sun, even ND 10 is not dark enough, so you might need to pre-focus on a distant object, and then wear eclipse glasses while looking thru the viewfinder.


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## nonac (Apr 23, 2017)

A few years ago when Mars made a transit in front of the sun, I read some tips on filters for the camera. I settled on this for $12 and it worked perfectly. I just used gaffers tape to secure it to the front of the lens. This is an insert for a welders mask. I don't know what the rating numbers mean, but the info I read recommended this one, it is marked "H Z87 12". Hard to beat for $12. I'm looking forward to the eclipse, I live in Central MO, right in the path. I'm just hoping for no clouds that day, that would ruin everything!


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## rfdesigner (Apr 23, 2017)

LDS said:


> Use a specific Sun filter. Photo filters are not designed to block all the wavelengths coming directly from the Sun. Otherwise you risk to damage your equipment, and, especially, your eyes.



+1.. Only use dedicated filters, they are not expensive. You can get reflective film quite cheaply.

For instance: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/solar-filters/astrozap-baader-solar-filter.html


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## DanP (Apr 23, 2017)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> I ordered the Marumi from Amazon (77mm) for my 100-400L. I did more research as to the use of live view, it all depends on the filter you are using.
> 
> Baaden Planetary silver filters work fine with cameras, but let too much light thru to use with live view. Leaving the shutter open for long periods with too much light can fade the color in the micro lenses. Why risk it, get a strong filter like the Marumi, or use the viewfinder, short exposures are not going to damage the sensor or micro lenses. Both will work, but a different approach is needed.
> 
> ...



I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on the Marumi filter once you've shot the sun with it - particularly whether it has any color cast issues.

The pictures I attached were all shot with the Big and Little Stoppers stacked together (16 stops). The G3X picture was shot at ISO 200, F5.6 & 1/1000. The 5DIII 560mm (400 & 1.4 extender) was shot at ISO 200, F8.0 & 1/800. Presumably the Marumi would have similar shooting parameters given it is only .5 stop more. I agree that the Big Stopper (10 stop) alone is not enough. The Marumi is certainly the less expensive way to go if you don't already have the other filters, and maybe a better option in that it is one filter instead of two.

Oddly, the 5DIII pictures appear to have a bit of blue color cast (WB = Daylight) while the G3X doesn't (AWB). ACR shows the color temperature / tint for the 5DIII as 5200 & +5 and for the G3X as 5550 & +1.

I manually focused the pictures with live view and a HoodLoupe and concentrated on the edge of the sun, but it's awkward holding the HoodLoupe in one hand and focusing with the other, and results in camera shake, which makes it difficult to see whether good focus has been achieved. Perhaps I need to figure out how to attach the HoodLoupe to the camera, or buy an external monitor with focus assist features. I also need to do a lot more practice and figure out how best to do some bracketing (more important for when the sun is fully eclipsed and the filters are off). The 2 minutes the sun will be fully eclipsed is not the best time to be figuring out what to do.


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## rfdesigner (Apr 23, 2017)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> ND filters let too much light thru to look at the sun, even ND 10 is not dark enough, so you might need to pre-focus on a distant object, and then wear eclipse glasses while looking thru the viewfinder.



Word of caution, the precise example might be fine.. but there's a risk playing with this setup. (this comment is for others reading this who might not realise, and may just put an ND8 filter on.. DONT)

Eyepiece solar filters for telescopes have been all but banned. The problem is that the filter ends up being strongly heated and can suddenly fail. So always make sure you have eliminated sufficient energy before you go through any magnification. Additionally if the large front filter gets a slight split or hole it's not going to blind you instantly as it doesn't have enough area compared to the whole, the same cannot be said for solar glasses used on the eyepiece of a camera + long large lens.

If in doubt, use a dedicated solar filter on the front of your optical setup.


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## DanP (Apr 23, 2017)

nonac said:


> A few years ago when Mars made a transit in front of the sun, I read some tips on filters for the camera. I settled on this for $12 and it worked perfectly. I just used gaffers tape to secure it to the front of the lens. This is an insert for a welders mask. I don't know what the rating numbers mean, but the info I read recommended this one, it is marked "H Z87 12". Hard to beat for $12. I'm looking forward to the eclipse, I live in Central MO, right in the path. I'm just hoping for no clouds that day, that would ruin everything!



I hear you. In May 2012 my wife and I flew from Vancouver to Las Vegas, rented a car and drove to Bryce Canyon to see the annular eclipse. Just before the eclipse started the only cloud in the sky moved to cover the sun. The rest of the sky was clear. I did manage to get somewhat of a picture near the middle point of the eclipse, but very disappointing overall. If we had stayed in the lot of our motel in town rather than driving out into Bryce Canyon, we would have had an unobstructed view of the eclipse. However, it was only part of a longer trip through Bryce Canyon and Zion, so all was not lost. 

The pictures were taken with a G1X. I first tried holding a piece of Baader solar film over the lens, but got very bad ghosting and had to resort to holding one side of a cheap pair of cardboard framed solar glasses in front of the lens. I also somehow managed to change the white balance to tungsten during one series of pictures. I did catch the mistake before the end, but I was perplexed. Stupidly I didn't figure all this out before going on the trip. I got the camera shortly before the trip and somehow managed to set the date wrong on the camera, so all my EXIF dates are out by about 1 month. I understand there is some way to fix the dates in Lightroom, but I haven't tried to figure it out yet. I'm hoping to avoid these problems this time, and hopefully don't find new mistakes to make.

I understand you need to use a #14 welder's shade for solar viewing. Didn't the welding shade impart a green color cast to your pictures?


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## LDS (Apr 23, 2017)

DanP said:


> I did check with Lee Filters before trying the Big and Little Stopper filters stacked together, and they advised that the filters would be OK to use with live View, but not through the view finder. Perhaps that is because of the wavelength issue you pointed out. I hadn't thought of that - thanks. The Marumi is shown (on their website) as to be specifically for shooting the sun, but also shows the warning not to use the optical view finder.



Live view is safe for your eyes, and you should never use a optical viewfinder/ocular unless you use an absolutely safe filter.

Beware of the heat that can build inside the lens if the infrared radiation is not blocked, and you keep the Sun aimed for a long time. Good solar filters are reflective at those wavelengths also.

To take Sun photos, I've been using Astrosolar filters (http://astrosolar.com/en/) which aren't expensive, but there are other options. Remember that the larger the front lens, and the longer the focal, more energy will be collected and focused.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Apr 25, 2017)

DanP said:


> Mt Spokane Photography said:
> 
> 
> > I ordered the Marumi from Amazon (77mm) for my 100-400L. I did more research as to the use of live view, it all depends on the filter you are using.
> ...



The marumi will have a strong orange cast. The Baaden Planetary silver film or filters will have good color, but the mylar film is delicate and you need to be careful. Its not suitable to look thru, but for a 1/2000 sec f/16 image, its fine.

The filter is on its way from Japan, so it will be a week, possibly two before it arrives. I'll definitely be practicing as well as viewing some of the experts techniques.

I broke down and reserved a motel room in Pendleton, OR, rooms are virtually gone unless you want to pay $1200 a night at a Motel 8 (Yes, I saw one for that). I live about 363 miles North of Lime, OR which is on the center path. Its 2 hrs South of Pendleton where we are staying, and looks like there are lots of potentially good places to view the eclipse for miles around. I need to scout out a area with a good view to the southeast, since it is hilly country. 

Lime is a interesting place, one I'm strongly considering, since its on a good highway. Its a virtual ghost town. The cement plant is abandoned and a death trap. Hopefully, Oregon will have it fenced off, too many kids will be around there. We might not make it that far, it depends on the traffic, we'll allow extra time. The eclipse will start about 9:10 AM PDT and be Done by 11:48 AM, a pretty good time of the day, sun is at about 45 deg. , but not yet really hot.

The Lime post office was established in 1899 and closed in 1964.[3] In 1940, the community had a population of 18.[4] The deposits of limestone in the area were manufactured into lime that supplied a large area of Eastern Oregon and western Idaho.[3][5] The Acme Cement Plaster Company built a plant at Lime in 1916 to produce plaster.[3] The Sun Portland Cement Company bought the plant in 1921 and built another facility for producing Portland cement.[3] In 1926, the company merged with Oregon Portland Cement Company from Portland; by the 1960s, the Lime facility produced 1,200,000 barrels a year.[3] As the nearby limestone deposits were depleted, limestone was brought from the Nelson area near Durkee.[3] A new plant was built at Nelson in 1979 and the facility at Lime was closed in 1980.[


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## applecider (May 1, 2017)

I chose to go with the 77mm filter from Thousand Oaks optical. I also got an 8x8 sheet of film to use to make a box filter for the big whites. 

As for location I plan to watch the weather reports and head a day ahead of time to a clear location in Oregon. I'll bivouac the night before.

filter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0176XYFK4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

film: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DS7S52W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## Mt Spokane Photography (May 14, 2017)

My Marumi Solar Eclipse Filter for my 100-400mm L (77mm) arrived today, but we have no sun. The manual calls for a ISO 100, 1/2000 sec exposure at f/8, among other settings, so I tried that setting using my 1D MK III with 70-200mm f/2.8 lens while pointing at a very bright patch in the cloudy sky, or at least, it seemed bright to me. 

No go, the exposure was totally black, as good as any lens cap shot! Then, I turned on liveview, and kept increasing the exposure. since I was hand holding the camera and lens, I decided that 1/40 sec was as slow as I could go, I set the ISO to 3200, and aperture to f/2.8, but it was still 3 stops underexposed.

A ND 100,000 filter is really black!

I guess I'll just have to wait until we have a sunny day. I want to work out the process of focusing, aiming, and closing the shutter. With autofocus off, I'll manually focus on a far distant object and tape the focus ring. I'll have to have some way to aim the camera either using live view, or maybe wirelessly tethered to my iphone.

Next try I'll use my 100-400, but since my camera had the 70-200 on it today, I tried that just to see if I could get a image at all.

Once I am able to get some images of the full sun, I'll post my settings.


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## LDS (May 15, 2017)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> I want to work out the process of focusing, aiming, and closing the shutter.



Unluckily the Sun is at the minimum of its 11-year cycle, so there's a good chance there will be only small or no spots, which usually help focusing. Without spots, try to use the solar edge as reference (turbulence may make it "flutter" a little, though).

Remember it's quite easy to overexpose. If present, spots should be clearly visible. Use the aperture at which the lens is sharper. Faster shutter speeds help to "freeze" air turbulence, but don't pump ISO too much, whenever possible.


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## RSHILLS (May 15, 2017)

I purchased the Marumi Solar Filter recently. The photo below was with a Canon 7Dii, Canon 100-400 ii, ISO 100, f8, 1/1250s using the Marumi Solar Filter. Photo has been cropped and lightened slightly. Also, while probably not the best way to shoot the solar eclipse, but this was hand held using autofocus through the viewfinder.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (May 16, 2017)

RSHILLS said:


> I purchased the Marumi Solar Filter recently. The photo below was with a Canon 7Dii, Canon 100-400 ii, ISO 100, f8, 1/1250s using the Marumi Solar Filter. Photo has been cropped and lightened slightly. Also, while probably not the best way to shoot the solar eclipse, but this was hand held using autofocus through the viewfinder.



Sun was out this morning, but I had a appointment to get to. Then, we had a downpour and clouds. I won't likely get a chance to try it until later in the week.

I was surprised to see a white image thru the filter. I may have to alter it to add a slightly yellow tint, so people will believe its the sun as filtered thru the atmosphere.

I would be worried about looking thru the viewfinder, my eye is too prone to slipping off, and I'd be blinded for a while and miss the eclipse.  

I'll probably use my 5D MK III with 100-400 + 1.4 TC.


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## bholliman (Jun 8, 2017)

We are planning to drive to southern Illinois, the eclipse path is less than 3 hours from where we live, so we should be able to do it in a day trip.

I was planning to use my 300 f/2.8 with 1.4 or 2.0x extenders (not sure which yet). My only other telelphoto lens is a 70-200 f/2.8 that I could use with a 77mm threaded filter, but even with the 2x extender, it comes up short. I might use both my 5DsR and M5 on separate tripods to get shots at different focal lengths.

I don't have any front element filter systems to fit the 300. Should I be looking to buy a flat filter and use gaffers tape to attach it? Any suggestions on what filter to use?


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jun 8, 2017)

bholliman said:


> We are planning to drive to southern Illinois, the eclipse path is less than 3 hours from where we live, so we should be able to do it in a day trip.
> 
> I was planning to use my 300 f/2.8 with 1.4 or 2.0x extenders (not sure which yet). My only other telelphoto lens is a 70-200 f/2.8 that I could use with a 77mm threaded filter, but even with the 2x extender, it comes up short. I might use both my 5DsR and M5 on separate tripods to get shots at different focal lengths.
> 
> I don't have any front element filter systems to fit the 300. Should I be looking to buy a flat filter and use gaffers tape to attach it? Any suggestions on what filter to use?



A very good discussion on Fred Miranda, as a result, I changed my mind about filters and now have a Orion filter on order. I'm going to put my Marumi filter up for sale as soon as I get the Orion. The reason is something I was not aware of, and that is that you need the filter as the sun is partially eclipsed, but must remove it during the total eclipse. Unscrewing a threaded filter is a very short time might be frustrating for someone like me who has a loss of feeling and control in his fingers. I'm hoping to use my iusb Camera2 to link to phone or tablet to view thru live view. I've fired it up, and have it ready to work on my tablet, now to find time to test it outside. Its overcast the rest of this week.

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1491063/0?keyword=eclipse#14041582


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## JPAZ (Jun 8, 2017)

First comment......NO, NO, NO, No, do not rely on anything other than a real solar filter! The potential for damage to your equipment or your eyes is very real!

Second comment.........+1 on Thousand Oaks. Their filters are relatively cheap and they work.

I've attached two images form a solar eclipse seen in the South Pacific in July 2010. My disclaimer, this was with a marginal tripod. Shot on my old 50D on while on the deck of a rolling ship. So you can extrapolate, I was using a 70-200 f/4 lens and then cropped.

The first is at near complete and the second is the "signet ring" shot when it is safe to remove the filter for a a bit.

Good luck.


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## bholliman (Jun 9, 2017)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> A very good discussion on Fred Miranda, as a result, I changed my mind about filters and now have a Orion filter on order. I'm going to put my Marumi filter up for sale as soon as I get the Orion. The reason is something I was not aware of, and that is that you need the filter as the sun is partially eclipsed, but must remove it during the total eclipse. Unscrewing a threaded filter is a very short time might be frustrating for someone like me who has a loss of feeling and control in his fingers. I'm hoping to use my iusb Camera2 to link to phone or tablet to view thru live view. I've fired it up, and have it ready to work on my tablet, now to find time to test it outside. Its overcast the rest of this week.
> 
> http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1491063/0?keyword=eclipse#14041582



Thanks! Excellent thread with a wealth of information.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jun 14, 2017)

My Orion Solar Filter arrived today, it fits perfectly and securely on my 100-400mm lens. So, this morning, as expected, it was overcase. I patiently waited for the sun to peek thru a gap in the heavy clouds, and managed to convince myself that it was going to work. I used live view, but my old 1D MK III and 100-400L II moved too much in my shaky hands, and I did not bother to focus, just set the lens to the infinity mark, which was likely off, so I'm waiting for a day when the sun is out to take some in-focus photos.

It was cold and wind blowing strongly, so I did not take more than a few seconds. I like the coloring the filter gives. Its a glass filter rather than the film, so it should still be usable for many years to come.

I'm planning to try various ways of viewing, I have a LCD shade, a iphone, and a android tablet, I will probably use my 5D MK III rather than the 1D MK III, but the 1D was ready to grab.

I might consider using the 1D III with 70-200+2X and the 5D III with 100-400 MK II +1.4 TC. I now have two solar filters. The Orion can be quickly pulled off during the total eclipse while the Marumi screws on. I'd probably just foul things up trying to focus and use two different cameras during such a short period.

The Orion filter is very nice, it has foam to seal out external light, and goes on and off smoothly. I did not tighten the screws, Adhesive backed foam pads are included thich will keep it from scratching the lens barrel as well as providing friction so it can pull on and off smoothly but firmly. Since I'll be sliding it off for the totality, thats important.

I do wonder how DPAF would work for something like this, I won't rule out getting a DPAF camera well ahead of Aug 21.


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## bholliman (Jun 14, 2017)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> My Orion Solar Filter arrived today, it fits perfectly and securely on my 100-400mm lens.



Thanks for the update and images!

I ended up ordering a Thousand Oaks glass filter since Orion didn't have one the right size for my 300 f/2.8 II (5" OD). They haven't shipped yet, but I hope I get it fairly soon so I can experiment with it long before 8/21.



Mt Spokane Photography said:


> I might consider using the 1D III with 70-200+2X and the 5D III with 100-400 MK II +1.4 TC. I now have two solar filters. The Orion can be quickly pulled off during the total eclipse while the Marumi screws on. I'd probably just foul things up trying to focus and use two different cameras during such a short period.



I'm toying with the idea of using my 300 + 2x extender with my 5DsR *and* a borrowed 400 f/5.6 on my M5, but I have the same concern, trying to manage 2 cameras might be too much in the 150 seconds of totality. I want to enjoy the eclipse experience as well taking images. I plan to do plenty of practice, so hopefully that experience will tell me if I should try to use 2 cameras or not. 

My 18-year-old son may also be going with me. If he does, he will probably want to shoot with his 6D. His only current lens is a 24-70 f/4 IS, so he will either be looking to rent a super tele or borrow my 70-200 if he plans to do more than environmental photography.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jun 22, 2017)

Finally, sun is out this morning, no wind, so I am setting up.

First, I added the adhesive backed foam tape that was supplied with the filter. I did not like it, the screws tore thru it easily, so I put on some ordinary duct tape strips where the screws would hit, that seemed to work fine.

Then, I mounted camera and lens on my big tripod, even at 6"2, I must look up to see the rear of the camera. I have a sun shade on the LCD, and had no problem finding the sun at 400mm, it only fills a tiny amount of the screen. I tried live AF, but could not tell if it was focusing well (I think it did), and then manually focused with manual exposure. So, I got my first shot of the sun. I think I see a sun spot in the lower left corner, but it could be something else.

Now to try other methods of composing before adding TC's. Here is a heavy crop of the first photo.


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## justawriter (Jun 22, 2017)

I know for my northern lights and meteor shower photos I shut off IS. Is that recommended for eclipse photos as well?


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jun 26, 2017)

IS should not be needed unless you are on a wooden deck like me where it can help a little. I'll be on solid ground eventually, but using the deck is handy for me to go back and forth. I spent 2 hours today trying 1.4X and 2X TC's, various shutter speeds, and focus methods. I could not see well enough to manually focus, live AF was reasonably accurate, but it might be better. I tried the focus stacking program that I had for my IusbPort Camera2, but none of the 14 focus points were that good. A good exposure seemed easy to find, it will not be so easy during the totality. Using my Gimbal worked fine to find the sun, I looked at the shadow from the lens on the camera body, centered it, and the sun was almost always in the frame. I've ordered some otg cables for my tablet to see how well a direct connection works. I have a holder that clamps on a tripod leg that can hold the tablet or my laptop. I plan to experiment a lot to find the easiest and most reliable way to capture solar photos with the gear I have. I'm also considering newer gear.


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## LDS (Jun 26, 2017)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> A good exposure seemed easy to find, it will not be so easy during the totality.



Inside the totality, bracket. There are different structures that appear with different brightness levels, i.e the outer corona or Baily grains. You can also attempt a stqcked or HDR image later.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jun 26, 2017)

LDS said:


> Mt Spokane Photography said:
> 
> 
> > A good exposure seemed easy to find, it will not be so easy during the totality.
> ...



Yes, I was bracketing exposures 7 steps, but with my remote software, I had to hit the shutter button 7 times. 

The correct exposure was easily arrived at, but I plan to use 7 step bracketing during the totality. However, I tried focus stacking and forgot to turn off exposure bracketing, it turned out really weird. It never achieved the best focus in any event. 

I was hoping live af would work with a 2x TC at f/16, but it was too erratic. Its ok at f/11 but not great. There are a lot more things to experiment with. 

Right now, I'm thinking a 5D MK IV might give me a better image and better AF, but I will likely figure out a way to manual focus accurately. I can always use my laptop and canon utilities to focus at 5 or 10 x, I just need a good screen shade which I can build with black foam core and a glue gun or tape.


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## LDS (Jun 26, 2017)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> but I will likely figure out a way to manual focus accurately.



I would use MF and tape to avoid moving the focus ring by mistake, although it the lens heats up focus may shift and need read-adjustment. I really don't know how well AF can focus this subject. If there are some spots (but the Sun cycle is at its minimum, so spots are rare and small), you can magnify them and use as reference, otherwise try to focus the Sun border. You can also find the right "infinity focus" pointing at an object far enough instead of the Sun, and probably easier to focus. If using a zoom, tape the zoom ring also, to avoid focus shifts.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jun 29, 2017)

LDS said:


> Mt Spokane Photography said:
> 
> 
> > but I will likely figure out a way to manual focus accurately.
> ...




Live AF (contrast detect worked quite well, my plan was to focus on a very distant object - several miles or further away and tape the focus ring. The 100-400 had a zoom lock built-in. There are some Television antennas line of sight 7.5 miles and visible in my back yard. Manual focus on them is extremely sensitive, just touch the focus and its out. I might be able to fins something 50 miles away, but its something I'll work out.

I felt that there was too much cropping, even with the 1.4 TC. So, I'm thinking of ways to get more pixels on the subject by buying or renting a different camera. I am tempted to just get a 80D and use it. A 5D MK IV would also add more pixels on the subject. The 6D MK II is not a significant difference as far as MP goes.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jul 2, 2017)

I've upped the ante, and am ordering a new 5D MK IV thru the Canon Price Watch Street Price plan. I am selling my older cameras, and will probably also get a newer backup camera later.

I plan to tether the 5D IV and remote display / control it from my iphone, Android Tablet, or windows laptop. I'll experiment with wired as well as wireless. 

I like the touch to AF function on the phone and tablet, but hard wiring to my laptop and using Canon Utilities may be more functional. There are lots of gotchas when using remote tethering, So I will also look at 3rd party apps. I will be making my own sun shades for all three to see which works best in bright sun light. Of course, the bright sunlight will disappear as the eclipse progresses so it will be less of a issue. I may just put the lens in MF and tape the focus ring if that seems to work best. The 100-400 zoom has a lock so tape isn't needed.

The camera will likely arrive in a week or so, the dealer is on the east coast and I'm West. I bought my 35mm L from the dealer in 2010 (I looked it up, I save emails like this forever) and was satisfied.


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## Duckman (Jul 3, 2017)

[/quote]


So, I'm thinking of ways to get more pixels on the subject by buying or renting a different camera. [/quote]

I was just wondering myself if I should rent a crop sensor (7Dii or 80D) or use my 5Div and crop..

I'm still going back and forth on a gimbal or geared head, one or two cameras, 400 prime or 100-400ii, with 1.4x or 2x....
any professional thoughts from the group would be welcome.

p.s. Does anyone know how many pixels I'll be left with cropping the 5D (400+1.4x) to crop equivalent? 

-J


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## bholliman (Jul 3, 2017)

Duckman said:


> I'm still going back and forth on a gimbal or geared head, one or two cameras, 400 prime or 100-400ii, with 1.4x or 2x....



I'm still debating between using my gimbal or ball head and 1 or 2 camera. I have a solar filter on order that should arrive next week, I plan to do lots of testing shooting the son and hopefully can answer some of these questions soon.


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## Valvebounce (Jul 4, 2017)

Hi bholliman. 
I'm not sure of the relative transit speeds, but my experience trying to shoot the moon, (one day I might get a really good shot which I might share) 
last place, ball head, 
second place, gimbal, 
winner, geared head. 
Also, I'm just wondering how long your son will have to hold still to get a visible image through a solar filter?    

Sorry, irresistible opportunity. Feel free to return the favour when I slip up!

Cheers, Graham. 



bholliman said:


> Duckman said:
> 
> 
> > I'm still going back and forth on a gimbal or geared head, one or two cameras, 400 prime or 100-400ii, with 1.4x or 2x....
> ...


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jul 4, 2017)

So, I'm thinking of ways to get more pixels on the subject by buying or renting a different camera. 

I was just wondering myself if I should rent a crop sensor (7Dii or 80D) or use my 5Div and crop..

I'm still going back and forth on a gimbal or geared head, one or two cameras, 400 prime or 100-400ii, with 1.4x or 2x....
any professional thoughts from the group would be welcome.

p.s. Does anyone know how many pixels I'll be left with cropping the 5D (400+1.4x) to crop equivalent? 

-J



About 4 pixels left





I seriously looked at the 80D, but it only has a 3 shot exposure bracket ability while a 7D MK II or the FF bodies have a 7 shot exposure bracketing. Since there is so little time during the totality, a 7 shot bracketing is a advantage. 

In the end, The Eclipse will only last a short time, but I'll want a camera to use for years. That played into the decision.


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## LDS (Jul 4, 2017)

Duckman said:


> I'm still going back and forth on a gimbal or geared head, one or two cameras, 400 prime or 100-400ii, with 1.4x or 2x.... any professional thoughts from the group would be welcome.



I'd use a geared head, 400 prime depending on what prime you have, compared to the 100-400II, + 2x (on a full frame) . The Sun apparent size is about 0.5° - you can compare it with a lens angle of view.

The corona extends well past the Sun border, so you may want to leave enough room - and maybe using the 1.4x if you wish to image the outer corona, but it's trickier.

You may have no enough time to operate two cameras during totality, unless they've been automated. 

Like Mt Spokane Photography, do some test and experiments before the eclipse. There's very little time, and you need to know exactly what you're doing not to waste it.


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## tron (Jul 4, 2017)

Too far for me so I will not be seeing/photographing it. But since I have some experience from shooting a total solar eclipse back in 2006 let me tell you what I used. Although it was still film for me back then you can convert for digital...

1. A sturdy tripod with gear head. I bought both of them a few months before the shooting in anticipation of that specific occasion. I used them until 2013 when I bought a lighter tripod and head.

2. I had (and used) 300mm f/4 L (non IS version which is ultra sharp) and 2XII teleconverter. Focus set on manual (In hindsight it was interesting that I was able to focus correctly using just the viewfinder  )

3. Full frame camera ..... EOS 1n ;D (and a second EOS 1n body as a backup) loaded with ISO 200 negative film.

4. Remote release cable (in combination with mirror lock).

5. Solar filter made of baader astrosolar film fitted to a round case which could screw (using 3 nylon/plastic screws) in front of the lens. It was easy to detach it for the 2 minutes of the totality phase and then attach it again.

6. I had spend a 36 exposure film taking test shots using that filter in the weeks before so as to know the settings I needed. 

7. I had a piece of white sheet in case there was a temperature problem from the continuous exposure to the sun. But I did not need it after all (it was late March).

A few days before that shooting I had visited a shop to ask for the newly announced EOS 30D - now I know that I must not ask for a new camera just 1 month after its announcement!!! - but they had only EOS 20D. So I told them that they saved me some money and I left. I still feel that maybe I should have gone for either 20D or 5D but I has also hesitant because I new my EOS 1n cameras but I didn't know if there would be enough time to learn the digital camera. But, with the money I saved I bought Nikon's Coolscan ED5000 and scanned the negatives afterwards. 

Happy shooting


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jul 4, 2017)

I have ball heads, fluid pan and tilt heads, geared tripods, and a gimbal. I like the gimbal on my really heavy duty tripod legs, my geared tripod is not so heavy, and pointing a ball head at the Sun is difficult and requires both hands. I balance the gimbal, and it only takes a touch to move it up as the sun rises, and it stays. Same with swivel. I need to check balance again with the TC, I may have to adjust or use a longer lens plate. I sold my big and heavy geared Manfrotto Video tripod legs one thinking I'd never use them, it now sits in the photography school of the local community college. They like to have the heavy duty ones just staying in place for students to use because they are so stable.


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## Duckman (Jul 6, 2017)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> So, I'm thinking of ways to get more pixels on the subject by buying or renting a different camera.
> 
> I was just wondering myself if I should rent a crop sensor (7Dii or 80D) or use my 5Div and crop..
> 
> ...



Wow, that's not much at all. haha 
I cant decide if I should rent or just use my 5Div... I wish my M6 had better bracketing and buffer!
-J


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## Duckman (Jul 6, 2017)

rfdesigner said:


> Go Google Fred Espenak
> 
> He created an image of an eclipse in (I think) the 90s that blew away EVERY eclipse image before then, and frankly I've never seen that improved upon, coppied yes, tweaked yes, but not improved on.
> 
> ...



I will crap my pants if I can get a final result like that!
-J


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## Duckman (Jul 6, 2017)

bholliman said:


> Duckman said:
> 
> 
> > I'm still going back and forth on a gimbal or geared head, one or two cameras, 400 prime or 100-400ii, with 1.4x or 2x....
> ...



I plan to do some tests in the coming weeks as well.... first up is using my gimbal vs. geared head. 
I've decided I'm better off focusing al my attention to one camera and enjoying the eclipse.
-J


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## Duckman (Jul 6, 2017)

LDS said:


> Duckman said:
> 
> 
> > I'm still going back and forth on a gimbal or geared head, one or two cameras, 400 prime or 100-400ii, with 1.4x or 2x.... any professional thoughts from the group would be welcome.
> ...



I have the 400L 5.6... I still have it after I upgraded to the ii zoom. I want top test flare with both lenses.. I think* IQ differences with 1.4x attached would be negligible.
I think I want to stay away from the 2x not only for potential image quality but I want the larger aperture as well to allow a faster shutter. 
I'm going to just bracket a whole bunch and hopefully I can capture the outer corona!! I wonder if I'd be fine with 5Div at 400 with 1.4x and crop down as needed.. still considering renting a 7Dii or 5Ds even...
I do plan on doing some testing so I know how to proceed during the eclipse. I have a solar filter as well to photograph before totality.
-J


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## Duckman (Jul 6, 2017)

Thank you everyone for your input. 
-J


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jul 6, 2017)

After reading the articles recommending a geared head some more, I ordered one that comes with a arca-swiss clamp modification. I think it will also be useful for macros, at least, I hope so, they are expensive.


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## LDS (Jul 7, 2017)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> After reading the articles recommending a geared head some more, I ordered one that comes with a arca-swiss clamp modification. I think it will also be useful for macros, at least, I hope so, they are expensive.



IMHO they are also useful for still-life and landscape, when composition and framing need to be accurately controlled.


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## Valvebounce (Jul 20, 2017)

Hi Folks. 
A short article from Lens Rentals, might be worth a read if you are planning to shoot the eclipse, not much that hasn't been said already but some suggested settings that might help. 

Cheers, Graham.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jul 20, 2017)

I received the used Manfrotto 410 ball head from Hejnar , and was underwhelmed by the amount of backlash. Its usable, but not very. I'm going to disassemble it to see if there is anything that can be done. They use a worm drive, and a spring holds it against the pinion gear, so the spring might be weak, or it just needs the old lube replaced. I've now found a number of users with the issue.


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## justawriter (Jul 21, 2017)

So Thousand Oaks shipped my filters today (one for the Tammy 150-600 and the other for my 70-300). I see there is a transit of Mercury in 2019. Besides that, any suggestions on creative uses for a 16 step ND filter? ;D


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jul 21, 2017)

justawriter said:


> So Thousand Oaks shipped my filters today (one for the Tammy 150-600 and the other for my 70-300). I see there is a transit of Mercury in 2019. Besides that, any suggestions on creative uses for a 16 step ND filter? ;D



I think that its a one shot deal, at least for me.


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## LDS (Jul 21, 2017)

justawriter said:


> So Thousand Oaks shipped my filters today (one for the Tammy 150-600 and the other for my 70-300). I see there is a transit of Mercury in 2019. Besides that, any suggestions on creative uses for a 16 step ND filter? ;D



Unluckily, you just missed the transits of Venus in 2004 and 2012. Next one will be in 2117  Besides that, there could be sometimes some interesting Sun spots. 

Solar filters are not really useful for common photography - you may try to resell them to someone interested in solar observations - or chasing eclipses around the world.


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## bholliman (Jul 21, 2017)

justawriter said:


> So Thousand Oaks shipped my filters today (one for the Tammy 150-600 and the other for my 70-300). I see there is a transit of Mercury in 2019. Besides that, any suggestions on creative uses for a 16 step ND filter? ;D



Another total solar eclipse coming in 2024! 

I was wondering the same thing. Even if I just use it once, I will consider it money well spent if I come away with some good close up shots.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Jul 21, 2017)

bholliman said:


> justawriter said:
> 
> 
> > So Thousand Oaks shipped my filters today (one for the Tammy 150-600 and the other for my 70-300). I see there is a transit of Mercury in 2019. Besides that, any suggestions on creative uses for a 16 step ND filter? ;D
> ...


I probably won't be around for that one, and am unlikely to travel to the eastern part of the US to see it. However, being a very long lasting eclipse will be great for photographers.

Coming in early April rather than August definitely decreases the chance of clear skies over much of its US path.


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## bholliman (Jul 21, 2017)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> Coming in early April rather than August definitely decreases the chance of clear skies over much of its US path.



Yes, April in the east is maybe 50/50 for clouds, August is definately better. I hope to be around in 7 years but none of us really knows...


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## Random Orbits (Aug 2, 2017)

Is it worth trying for photos of a partial eclipse? I live in southern New England (well outside the optimal path), and I'm wondering if I can get decent photos. If so, I'll try for a solar filter.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Aug 2, 2017)

Random Orbits said:


> Is it worth trying for photos of a partial eclipse? I live in southern New England (well outside the optimal path), and I'm wondering if I can get decent photos. If so, I'll try for a solar filter.



I decided Spokane was too far from the path, about 300 miles North of the center path, so I reserved a room as close as I could get last April, and that is still 100 miles from the totality, so I'll try to drive it early in the morning. Otherwise, I'll still see 98+% in Pendleton, OR. It is already sounding pretty crazy, farmers are renting fields for 3 days for $5,000. Nothing else, just a patch of field marked with stakes.


If you have the telephoto lens and just need a filter, get one and give it a try. You will have plenty of time to get good shots, and once you have a good exposure, bracket it +/- 1/2 to 1 stop. The exposure will not vary much where you are. You can set a time lapse, once a minute or more frequently and make a short time lapse video clip.?


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## LDS (Aug 2, 2017)

Random Orbits said:


> Is it worth trying for photos of a partial eclipse? I live in southern New England (well outside the optimal path), and I'm wondering if I can get decent photos. If so, I'll try for a solar filter.



A partial eclipse doesn't show any of the peculiar features of a total one, that's why the latter is so special. A partial one is mostly the dark disc of the Moon covering part of the Sun. If it's worthy of not depends on your interest, if the Sun surface shows anything interesting, or if you can take advantage of the event for some unusual photo. Once I used a partial eclipse at dawn to take images of a raising crescent of the Sun, which gave an unusual look to the landscape. The Sun was low enough no filter was needed. But AFAIK in New England the eclipse happens with the Sun high in the sky.


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## Random Orbits (Aug 2, 2017)

Mt Spokane Photography said:


> Random Orbits said:
> 
> 
> > Is it worth trying for photos of a partial eclipse? I live in southern New England (well outside the optimal path), and I'm wondering if I can get decent photos. If so, I'll try for a solar filter.
> ...



Thanks! I ordered a filter but it's on back order, so I'll see if I can get it in time. I'll probably have a better shot at the 2024 one.

Ironically, I was in a great spot a week ago on vacation (WY), but timing is everything.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Aug 2, 2017)

Random Orbits said:


> Mt Spokane Photography said:
> 
> 
> > Random Orbits said:
> ...



Filters seem hard to find right now, you can make your own in a few minutes. It just takes some tape, cardboard, and scissors, along with some Baader Astrosolar film. Its still in stock at Amazon, I ordered some to make a 2nd filter and filters for my binoculars as well.

If I like it, I may put my Orion Glass filter up for sale.


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## lion rock (Aug 6, 2017)

So I tried to shoot our nearest star.
7D2/100-400II @400 with 1.4xIII. Solar filter is an Orion Full Aperture Solar Filter. Shot handheld. AutoFocus.
Moral of the story: Practice, Practice, and more practice.
I tried to put it on a tripod with gimbal but very difficult to raise to near vertical and still see through the viewfinder because the arm blocks the viewfinder. I'll try again and remove the swing arm from the gimbal and just use the vertical articulation point as a mount for the camera. Else, I have to find a way to put it on tripod and see out properly though the viewfinder. Handheld and manual focus is nearly impossible. I think CamRanger is a good method.
Further, I need to try the 2XIII multiplier to give better magnification. But, won't be able to AF.
So another practice in the upcoming days.
-r


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Aug 15, 2017)

I've had my 5D MK IV for a month now, and was finally able to set it up to snap a photo of the sun. I used my 100-400mm L and tried it with my 1.4X III, my 2X II, and both stacked.

I actually liked the final result best with the 2X.

One thing that my 5D MK IV does is focus in live view with all those combinations. It focuses quickly even at f16!

I tethered it to my iphone and verified that bracketing works.


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## lion rock (Aug 15, 2017)

Mt Spokane,
Nice!
Was it cropped?
My weather here is lousy so I can't practice here. So the photo I uploaded was the only OK one.
Hope to see more of yours.
-r


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## Valvebounce (Aug 16, 2017)

Hi Mt Spokane. 
That is quite some shot, nicely done. 
How do you stack the converters, I tried with my 1.4x III and 2x III, I could not get them together, do you put a short macro tube in to get over the protrusion on the converters or is the 2x II a different design? When you stack is there a best way round, lens 2x 1.4x body or does it not matter I know the maths (unless you use a tube then I don't know how that factors in the maths), I'm thinking about image quality? 

Cheers, Graham. 



Mt Spokane Photography said:


> I've had my 5D MK IV for a month now, and was finally able to set it up to snap a photo of the sun. I used my 100-400mm L and tried it with my 1.4X III, my 2X II, and both stacked.
> 
> I actually liked the final result best with the 2X.
> 
> ...


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## privatebydesign (Aug 16, 2017)

Valvebounce said:


> Hi Mt Spokane.
> That is quite some shot, nicely done.
> How do you stack the converters, I tried with my 1.4x III and 2x III, I could not get them together, do you put a short macro tube in to get over the protrusion on the converters or is the 2x II a different design? When you stack is there a best way round, lens 2x 1.4x body or does it not matter I know the maths (unless you use a tube then I don't know how that factors in the maths), I'm thinking about image quality?
> 
> Cheers, Graham.



The MkIII's won't stack (without an extension tube) the 2x MkIII is a different design from the MkII. Best reason to have a 2x TC MkII, to stack with the 1.4 TC MkIII, it is the combination I have.


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## Valvebounce (Aug 16, 2017)

Hi PBD. 
Thanks for clarifying that, I'm guessing you still lose infinity by adding a tube anywhere in the mix, does it work other than that or does the tube screw everything when stacking extenders? 

Cheers, Graham. 



privatebydesign said:


> Valvebounce said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Mt Spokane.
> ...


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Aug 16, 2017)

Valvebounce said:


> Hi Mt Spokane.
> That is quite some shot, nicely done.
> How do you stack the converters, I tried with my 1.4x III and 2x III, I could not get them together, do you put a short macro tube in to get over the protrusion on the converters or is the 2x II a different design? When you stack is there a best way round, lens 2x 1.4x body or does it not matter I know the maths (unless you use a tube then I don't know how that factors in the maths), I'm thinking about image quality?
> 
> Cheers, Graham.



I kept my 2X MK II rather than upgrade it to a MK III because it would stack with the 1.4X III. After viewing the image with them stacked, the IQ was much worse, the sun spots in the lower left corner were blurred.

The image is cropped a lot, but the 5D MK IV image seems to hold up with lots of cropping.

I'm going to try my SL2 if I get a chance, things are busy around here.

I'm probably going to get a 2X MK III TC at some point, but I doubt if the IQ will be noticeably better, perhaps at the edges.


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## DanP (Aug 19, 2017)

I will be using 5D Mark III with 1.4 III extender and 100-400L II at 560mm and f11 throughout the eclipse. I'm using a Lee 100mm system with stacked 10 stop and 6 stop ND filters. I've gone back and forth between the 1.4 III and 2.0 III, and have decided on the 1.4 III to ensure I get more of the corona (particularly if the sun isn't dead center in the frame). I contemplated using the 2.0 III and regularly zooming between 400 and 300 on the lens, but decided that is just asking for trouble given the short window (and possibly focus changes). I will be mounting the lens on an iOptron SkyTracker (the set up exceeds the stated maximum load capacity, but I tried it for 30 minutes and it worked quite well - hopefully I don't break it). I will be using the TC-80N3 set for 1 minute intervals and bracket 3 shots 1 stop apart). If I use ISO 100, the shutter speed needs to be 1/200. I'm wondering a few things: (1) should I use a higher ISO to increase the shutter speed (e.g., ISO 400 and 1/800) - what is the maximum ISO I should use?; (2) Is leaving the camera on and in Live View for the entire eclipse (153 min) going to cause a problem (e.g., heat build up - it's predicted to be 30 C on eclipse day where I am going in Oregon plus sun hitting camera). I will be taking a power pack with inverter, so I can use the 110v power adapter and won't have to worry about changing the camera battery. I will handle the diamond ring and full eclipse through different settings and more bracketing set into C2 & C3. AMENDMENT - it occurred to me to RTFM - extended use of live view will overheat the camera.


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## NancyP (Aug 19, 2017)

7D2 plus 400mm f/5.6 on AstroTrac mounted on geared head tripod (key assist - clinometer to set latitude angle), with a Baader solar film home-made filter
6D with either 14 or 21mm lens (keep changing my mind) for landscape with eclipse
Eclipse glasses

Backpack with usual gear (lots of water, compass, map, bug juice, sun screen, towel, snacks), hiking poles, maybe umbrella, wear long pants, long sleeved shirt, hat, and take lightweight sit pad or stool.


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