# Best Practices for using a Monopod



## J.R. (Feb 7, 2013)

Hi CR folks!

I've recently developed a problem with my left wrist which makes it difficult for me to shoot with the 5D3 + 100-400 combo for anything in excess of an hour because of the weight. To tide over this problem, I recently purchased a Manfrotto monopod, slapped on a ball-head and things are much easier. 

However, I find that the results of using the monopod are less than stellar for me. I've researched on the net and have tried out almost all triangulated foot and monopod positions but I don't think I'm getting very good results. The camera seems to float sideways while taking the shots - my 6-3 height doesn't help either with the center of gravity of the entire column being quite high. The only way I've got good shots is by reducing the height of the monopod and using a sitting / squatting position with the foot of the monopod jammed against the crook of my left foot with the column padded against my right thigh. 

What is the best way to use the monopod while standing upright? Help please ... I've got a birding trip coming up this weekend and don't want to be limited at 200mm.


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## dolina (Feb 10, 2013)

ballheads are no good with monopods. look for a monopod head or screw your 100-400 feet directly to the monopod.


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## brad goda (Feb 12, 2013)

are you mounting the monopod to the lens collar or to the camera?


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## digital paradise (Feb 12, 2013)

I use a ball head on mine. If I'm shooting sports and sitting I can angle the pod away from me slightly. Helps with birds in trees as well. Even sports while standing. A mono pod is useless for birds or planes in flight.


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## J.R. (Feb 12, 2013)

Thanks for the replies ... 



dolina said:


> ballheads are no good with monopods. look for a monopod head or screw your 100-400 feet directly to the monopod.



Screwing the 100-400 directly on the monopod is not an option given I need the QR for birds in flight. I'll try monopod head and see if that helps. 



brad goda said:


> are you mounting the monopod to the lens collar or to the camera?



Tripod Collar of the 100-400



digital paradise said:


> I use a ball head on mine. If I'm shooting sports and sitting I can angle the pod away from me slightly. Helps with birds in trees as well. Even sports while standing. A mono pod is useless for birds or planes in flight.



+1. This is the reason I use the monopod with the ball head. The QR comes in handy for the BIF. 

BTW, this is what I did click this weekend ...


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## brad goda (Feb 12, 2013)

JR sounds like youve tried and are trying to customize your monopods stance...
you have to do what you feel works best for you.., I think you are not the problem but the height of the monopod... IS too short...
Ive thought about it and re read your post and ill suggest a kind of custom for you....
since you said you are mounting mono to lens using ball head but still having camera sort of tilt or slide to its side off axis of the ball ... try this.
set the collar 90º to the left while your ball is set 90º right so its sitting in its vertical socket.
tighten the pan but keep the main ball loose... keep the collar tight... although now the camera and lens is set off center you can use the ball like a gimball... not quite but eh close.. put your left hand through the mono pods strap and hold lens through there.... this should help top stability besides your right hand on camera....
use your modified stance with monopod pushed to either you left or right foot....
yes i realize this makes your system shorter but hopefully this will make you more flexible and stable at the same time.. and hope soon you can find the appropriate height monopod.... or get a carbon tripod tall enough... you can use it open or closed... 
sorry if this sounds hoakey... but I thought this was an interesting problem... and just making a suggestion... good luck for your trip bro!!


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## brad goda (Feb 12, 2013)

ok... back yard fix for your monopod....

use PVC 1 or 2 feet longer than you need to extend your monopod to your height...
put bolt and nut through pvc... that will stop the bottom of your monopod... 
if too long...thats good you can use monopod adjustment to now lower to your height...

?? !! lol i dont know... its a redneck fix buy a Hawaii japanee boy... I guess its quite country here...


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## J.R. (Feb 12, 2013)

Thanks brad goda ... I am indeed looking for the setup stability and will try out your suggestion.

By the looks of it, I think it should work


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## neuroanatomist (Feb 13, 2013)

One option to consider might be a monopod belt pouch - used with the monopod collapsed, it transfers the weight to your hips rather than your arms. Not as good as setting it on the ground, but a lot more flexibility for moving around.


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## J.R. (Feb 13, 2013)

neuroanatomist said:


> One option to consider might be a monopod belt pouch - used with the monopod collapsed, it transfers the weight to your hips rather than your arms. Not as good as setting it on the ground, but a lot more flexibility for moving around.



Thanks Neuro! I didn't know this existed ... I've ordered one from Amazon right away


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## rs (Feb 13, 2013)

J.R. said:


> Screwing the 100-400 directly on the monopod is not an option given I need the QR for birds in flight. I'll try monopod head and see if that helps.


Why not try one of these?

http://www.manfrotto.co.uk/quick-change-rectangular-plate-adapter


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## Plainsman (Feb 13, 2013)

Pity they don't make bipods for photographers.
Much steadier than monopods - that's why rifle marksmen use them.
Yep twice the weight of a monopod but twice as steady - and one third lighter than a tripod.
A bipod with a good ball head would be ideal steady support for panning shots.


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## paul13walnut5 (Feb 13, 2013)

A video monopod with larger footprint may help, such as the 568, the head is all wrong, I don't think a 128 or 701 would support that weight of lens, but the 501hdv or 502 should be fine. If you get a video monopod, lock the horizontal pan on the head when using the monopod, as the pivot base on the foot will work better.


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## digital paradise (Feb 13, 2013)

J.R. said:


> Thanks for the replies ...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



That is pretty good. I'm just not comfortable using it for BIF. One day I'll pick up a gimballed head and use my tripod.


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## J.R. (Feb 13, 2013)

digital paradise said:


> That is pretty good. I'm just not comfortable using it for BIF. One day I'll pick up a gimballed head and use my tripod.



Thanks ... I'd like a gimball head too but for the 100-400 its overkill.


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## neuroanatomist (Feb 13, 2013)

J.R. said:


> Thanks ... I'd like a gimball head too but for the 100-400 its overkill.



If you have a good ballhead, you might consider the Jobu Micro Gimbal (similar to the Wimberley Sidekick, but lighter) - that would be good for BIF with a 100-400mm.


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## J.R. (Feb 13, 2013)

Thanks ... But too bad it says this

_Ballheads with Manfrotto, Bogen, or other Round, Hex, Square or proprietary clamping plates WILL NOT WORK with the BWG-M1. We do not recommend stacking adapters to make your own system_.

I've got a manfrotto 498rc2 head so I suppose that wont work ... I'll keep looking though!


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## neuroanatomist (Feb 13, 2013)

J.R. said:


> Thanks ... But too bad it says this
> 
> _Ballheads with Manfrotto, Bogen, or other Round, Hex, Square or proprietary clamping plates WILL NOT WORK with the BWG-M1. We do not recommend stacking adapters to make your own system_.
> 
> I've got a manfrotto 498rc2 head so I suppose that wont work ... I'll keep looking though!



Yeah - that sort of thing was one reason I moved away from the Manfrotto plate/clamp system to an Arca-Swiss type system. The AS system is the closest thing to a universal QR there is, and I use a combination of plates and clamps from Wimberley, Kirk, and Really Right Stuff. 

Initially, I switched my Manfrotto 234RC monopod tilt head for a 234 and removed the RC2 clamp from my Manfrotto 468MGRC2, and put Wimberley C-12 clamps on both. The other reason was there's a little play with the RC2 when the clamp is locked - it's secure with the secondary locking pin engaged, but there's still play because the clamp design doesn't actually lock down, it just captures the plate. The AS system actually clamps the plate and there's no play, making critical adjustments easier (not necessary for shooting birds, though).


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## Actionpix (Feb 13, 2013)

First thing will be only using a tilting head on a tripod. Beter is putting this tripod on a belt on your waist. More beter would be hanging the top of the tripod also in a harness over your upper body. Best is putting a frame on your back that extends forward. Hang your camera in that frame. (I use these setups to handle my 400mm f/2.8 "handhold".)


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## J.R. (Feb 13, 2013)

neuroanatomist said:


> .
> 
> Initially, I switched my Manfrotto 234RC monopod tilt head for a 234 and removed the RC2 clamp from my Manfrotto 468MGRC2, and put Wimberley C-12 clamps on both. The other reason was there's a little play with the RC2 when the clamp is locked - it's secure with the secondary locking pin engaged, but there's still play because the clamp design doesn't actually lock down, it just captures the plate. The AS system actually clamps the plate and there's no play, making critical adjustments easier (not necessary for shooting birds, though).



I too had thought about it but it looks like the 498rc2 can't be hacked. I think I will have to change the ball head going forward. 

It's happened too many times to me ... I'm ending up buying the right stuff only in the third attempt and spending 1.5x the money in the process. I made the same mistake with my lenses buying the rather cheaper Ls and now am in the process of upgrading them one by one. Phew!


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## J.R. (Feb 13, 2013)

Actionpix said:


> First thing will be only using a tilting head on a tripod. Beter is putting this tripod on a belt on your waist. More beter would be hanging the top of the tripod also in a harness over your upper body. Best is putting a frame on your back that extends forward. Hang your camera in that frame. (I use these setups to handle my 400mm f/2.8 "handhold".)



Thanks! Can you kindly explain what do you refer by putting a frame on my back? I see you are effectively handholding a 400mm 2.8, which weighs the proverbial, "ton", so your technique should be quite helpful with my relatively lighter 100-400.


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## digital paradise (Feb 13, 2013)

J.R. said:


> digital paradise said:
> 
> 
> > That is pretty good. I'm just not comfortable using it for BIF. One day I'll pick up a gimballed head and use my tripod.
> ...



Yes it is. I only have the 300L F4 IS. Saving the gimbal for when I get my 500 F4 IS. When I win the lottery that is.


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## neuroanatomist (Feb 13, 2013)

Agree that a gimbal is 'overkill' for a 100-400 on a monopod, but I think it can be useful on a tripod. The great thing about a gimbal is that the load is balanced at rest. With a ballhead, you have to either hold the camera the whole time or lock it down then unlock it when it's time for the action to start (whatever that action may be). With a gimbal, you just let go...then grab and track when you want.

Before getting a gimbal head, I didn't see a need for one, either. After using one, I use it with the 100-400L, too (but in that case, a less robust one than the RRS PG-02 LLR would suffice).


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## J.R. (Feb 13, 2013)

digital paradise said:


> J.R. said:
> 
> 
> > digital paradise said:
> ...



Good luck with the lottery


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## J.R. (Feb 13, 2013)

neuroanatomist said:


> Agree that a gimbal is 'overkill' for a 100-400 on a monopod, but I think it can be useful on a tripod. The great thing about a gimbal is that the load is balanced at rest. With a ballhead, you have to either hold the camera the whole time or lock it down then unlock it when it's time for the action to start (whatever that action may be). With a gimbal, you just let go...then grab and track when you want.
> 
> Before getting a gimbal head, I didn't see a need for one, either. After using one, I use it with the 100-400L, too (but in that case, a less robust one than the RRS PG-02 LLR would suffice).



But good gimbals are pretty expensive. Last time I checked the wimberley was almost GBP 500+, ouch!. 

I've been looking at the manfrotto 393 heavy lens support today, it's substantially cheaper while not having the ergonomics. It appears to function pretty much like a gimbal but funnily manfrotto advertises it as being for heavier lenses on a 'monopod' ... How would you rate it?


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## neuroanatomist (Feb 13, 2013)

J.R. said:


> But good gimbals are pretty expensive. Last time I checked the wimberley was almost GBP 500+, ouch!.
> 
> I've been looking at the manfrotto 393 heavy lens support today, it's substantially cheaper while not having the ergonomics. It appears to function pretty much like a gimbal but funnily manfrotto advertises it as being for heavier lenses on a 'monopod' ... How would you rate it?



I've never used the Manfrotto 393, to me it just looks too clunky. 

For shorter lenses, a Sidekick-type option is a good one - the proviso is that you need to have a good ballhead. The Sidekick requires a panning base on the ballhead, and the head needs to be dropped into the 90° notch and be able to support the load in that position. My Manfrotto 468MG would do that just fine, for example. The Jobu micro gimbal is pretty reasonably priced (US$140), but as you noted above, not suitable for the 498RC2.


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## viggen61 (Feb 13, 2013)

J.R. said:


> But good gimbals are pretty expensive. Last time I checked the wimberley was almost GBP 500+, ouch!.
> 
> I've been looking at the manfrotto 393 heavy lens support today, it's substantially cheaper while not having the ergonomics. It appears to function pretty much like a gimbal but funnily manfrotto advertises it as being for heavier lenses on a 'monopod' ... How would you rate it?



I have the Manfrotto 393 (aka "Poor Man's Gimbal Head" ) , and I use it with a gripped 7D and the 100-400 on a tripod. It is a very stable support for the camera/lens, and I feel it is definitely helping me get better shots.

A few weeks ago, I was shooting a Rough-legged Hawk hunting, and having the steady support really helped. Rough legs hunt by flying over a field, and then hovering in mid-air, when it sees a likely target, and then diving on it. Handheld, I'd have been able to get a few shots, but the bird would end up all over the frame in successive images. With the 393, I could keep the bird rock steady in the center, right with the focus point.

It's a similar story for me with Harriers. They swoop along low over a field (10-15 feet, maybe 20), and the 393 helps me keep everything steady.

The only issues I have with it are that the pan motion friction is not nearly as easy to adjust as on other gimbals, and when shooting birds high and close, the second "side" gets in the way of your shooting hand.

But for less than 1/3 the price of a Wimberly, for me, for now, it is perfectly fine.


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## canonmike (Feb 13, 2013)

Re: your considering the Manfrotto 393 head....I have not used it but you can google Colin Knight on youtube and watch some of his water bound videos from canoe using this head. It certainly works, even though as a professional photographer he has apparently now upgraded to Induro Gimbal head for his 500mm Canon F4. He has two different videos that he shot and they both show his setup using the 393. Very informative for nature photographers. Check it out. His video shot in Congaree swamp comes to mind. Here's one link. Another Day at Santee HD


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## Quasimodo (Feb 13, 2013)

neuroanatomist said:


> One option to consider might be a monopod belt pouch - used with the monopod collapsed, it transfers the weight to your hips rather than your arms. Not as good as setting it on the ground, but a lot more flexibility for moving around.



Brilliant! I did not know such a thing existed, but I will get one. Combined with a Black Rapid seems like a good match to me


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## Rat (Feb 13, 2013)

Plainsman said:


> Pity they don't make bipods for photographers.
> Much steadier than monopods - that's why rifle marksmen use them.
> Yep twice the weight of a monopod but twice as steady - and one third lighter than a tripod.
> A bipod with a good ball head would be ideal steady support for panning shots.


Great idea! I just bought a N-series Sirui tripod, from which one leg can be detached, to use as a separate monopod. One of the reasons I bought it, and obviously also the reason I'm reading this topic. But only now does it occur to me that this also means I now have a bipod 

This might be wonderful for action shooting, can't wait to try it out. Thanks


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## samkatz (Feb 13, 2013)

to the OP, first I feel your pain. I have arthritis in my neck that has crippled my left arm/hand. Can't handhold a 100-400 IS at all, hard to carry around a tripod. Have been using a monopod for years w/my 1.6 AP-C cameras.

I use the Carbon Fiber Manfrotto 694 w/the tilt head. Mount the lens shoe on the QR plate. Rarely even use the tilt feature and I rotate the lens w/in the collar for vertical. But the head has the QR for easy removal.

I try to hold my arms close to my body as I do w/just a camera, and keep them there as I tilt or rotate the whole assembly. Always use the vertical grip on the EOS to keep from needing to hook the elbow over the camera.

Keep IS on in all directions w/the monopod except for birds in flight..

Everything is a trade off. So I may have to use a higher ISO, like 800-1000 to get a sufficient shutter speed. Am hoping like others for a newer 100-400 IS w/better Stablization. I hate the push pull because the motion to extend the lens is literally a pain in the neck.


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## Halfrack (Feb 13, 2013)

I did the Manfrotto QR4 for a bit, and moved to Arca as well. If part of the issue is the monopod moving around that much due to height (I have the same issue) add some weight to the bottom. Think of it like this, all the weight and control is up high, a pound or two at the base would allow for better top-to-bottom balance. Does your monopod have a spike foot option? Does that help your shots when out and about?


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