# tilt-shift question



## arcanej (Nov 28, 2012)

I am looking to purchase either the TS-E 17mm or the TS-E 24mm. 

I'm greatly leaning towards the 24mm. First, I already have the 14mm L II for when I need something super wide. Second, I also like the idea of being able to use filters without having to buy into a Corkin or Lee system. 

Can anyone with experiences with these two lenses give me any feedback or suggestions? 

Thank you in advance!


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## neuroanatomist (Nov 28, 2012)

Both are excellent. The 24 II is a little sharper. But really, it comes down to focal length - is 24mm wide enough to frame what you need? Architecture sometimes needs a wider AoV. Personally, I'm very pleased with my 24mm...




EOS 1D X, TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II, 2.5 s, f/8, ISO 1600, +8 shift




EOS 5D Mark II, TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II, 1/60 s, f/11, ISO 100, +10 shift




EOS 5D Mark II, TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II, 1/2 s, f/8, ISO 100, +12 shift


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## Random Orbits (Nov 28, 2012)

They are both really good lenses, and it really comes down to a focal length issue. If you plan on doing interior shots in smaller spaces or if you plan on taking pictures of skyscrapers, the 17mm may be more useful. For everything else, I prefer the 24mm.


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## Viggo (Nov 28, 2012)

Had the 17 and I loved it for architecture and landscape, but turne out I became just as quickly bored with it as I did with my 14, persona preference really... I think the 17 is the most fun UW lens ever made...


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## arcanej (Nov 28, 2012)

Thank you all and great shots Neuroanatomist!

I think I will get the 24mm - the focal length will fit the majority of shots I want to do. Maybe if I win the Powerball tonight I can buy both.


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## bycostello (Nov 29, 2012)

Random Orbits said:


> They are both really good lenses, and it really comes down to a focal length issue. If you plan on doing interior shots in smaller spaces or if you plan on taking pictures of skyscrapers, the 17mm may be more useful. For everything else, I prefer the 24mm.



+1


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## unadog (Nov 29, 2012)

arcanej said:


> I think I will get the 24mm - the focal length will fit the majority of shots I want to do.



You can probably stitch in the few cases where you might need the 17 then. That is quite a big investment to keep in your bag for occasional use.

Or rent if ever needed. 

I loved my 45 mm TS-E. I still have the 90, never had the 24 or 17.


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## ReedZ (Nov 29, 2012)

unadog said:


> arcanej said:
> 
> 
> > I think I will get the 24mm - the focal length will fit the majority of shots I want to do.
> ...



Hi, 

I would like you advise, for product or food, which is better the 45mm TS-E or the 90mm TS-E?

Appreciate your feedback.


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## arcanej (Nov 29, 2012)

ReedZ - I don't own either, but I would guess the 90mm. 

Owning the 50mm and the 100mm, I would rather shoot with the 100mm for product/food. My wife makes jewelery which I usually photograph with the 100mm or the 70-200mm.


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## neuroanatomist (Nov 29, 2012)

For food, I'd say the TS-E 90, and for small products, too. Consider a light tent, too, either purchased or DIY.


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## arcanej (Nov 30, 2012)

Do extension tubes play well with tilt shift lenses?


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## pwp (Nov 30, 2012)

arcanej said:


> Do extension tubes play well with tilt shift lenses?





neuroanatomist said:


> For food, I'd say the TS-E 90, and for small products, too. Consider a light tent, too, either purchased or DIY.



The 90 TS-E is my go-to products lens. I frequently use it with extension tubes for product details. This is a class lens...and a comparative bargain compared to when I bought mine at the start of this century.

-PW


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## symmar22 (Nov 30, 2012)

Having the 17, 24 v2 and 90mm TS-E, I would recommend the 24mm for general use, the 17mm is much more specific, no filters, dangerously exposed front lens, a bit less sharp and slightly more distortion than the 24mm.

For food and product shots I would recommend the 90mm as well, you get 1/3 macro, sharper than the 45mm, and better, slightly compressed perspective, narrower angle of view makes it easier to get rid of disturbing background.

The 45mm would be more to shoot bigger items, like furniture.


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## Smurf1811 (Nov 30, 2012)

The 45mm ist perfect for People-Photography....


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## tron (Nov 30, 2012)

arcanej said:


> I am looking to purchase either the TS-E 17mm or the TS-E 24mm.
> 
> I'm greatly leaning towards the 24mm. First, I already have the 14mm L II for when I need something super wide. Second, I also like the idea of being able to use filters without having to buy into a Corkin or Lee system.
> 
> ...


No matter which of the two you choose you will enjoy the results. Unfortunately you will wish the other one too :


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## arcanej (Nov 30, 2012)

Thanks for the advice, all!

I pulled the trigger on the 24mm last night. This weekend I intend to wander the city and have some fun. 

Tron: How well aware of that I am!


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## neuroanatomist (Nov 30, 2012)

arcanej said:


> I pulled the trigger on the 24mm last night. This weekend I intend to wander the city and have some fun.



Congrats! Bring your tripod... 

Some random TS-E tips: 

use Live View to focus (tilting/shifting messes with the metering when focusing through the VF, but Live View is fine)
when tilting, focus on the distant subject (10x live view), then tilt until the close subejct is sharp (may need to do that iteratively a couple of times
TS-E lenses do well with extenders (even though Canon does not indicate they are compatible), but aperture will not be reported correctly in the EXIF

Have fun!


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## wcksmith (Nov 30, 2012)

Remember that you can shoot pano with the 24 using the shift function. If what you are shooting is not moving, then you can get some super hi-res photos. Shift the lens to the left & capture an image, then the middle, then the right. Stitch the three together & you've got a stunning image. Since the camera sensor doesn't move, there are no alignment issues. You can do the same in vertical format, shifting up & down rather than left to right. In either format, you can still use the tilt function, as it's on an independent axis and can be rotated separately from the shift mechanism.

I've got the 24mm & it's super sharp!


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## Jesse (Nov 30, 2012)

Actually, apparently you're supposed to shift the camera, not the lens.


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## SJTstudios (Nov 30, 2012)

For landscape tilt-shifting, you will need to fork in money in order to get those awesome shots, I thing the 17, just because you can always crop, and getting the 24 for a tighter shot wouldnt be smart, because it's mf.

Also, I think it's rokinon that is working on a 24mm 3.5 model ts-e for like $800 bucks, and they make harp glass!


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## tron (Nov 30, 2012)

Jesse said:


> Actually, apparently you're supposed to shift the camera, not the lens.


Yes but to do that the lens and NOT the camera must be steady. So the lens has to be fixed to a tripod somehow. In order to do that you need a special Canon TSE Tripod Collar from HARTBLEI.

See: http://www.hartblei.de/en/canon-tse-collar.htm

However, it is very expensive and there is something that is often neglected. If you shift a lot you will reduce the sharpness in one side (if you shift close to lens shift limit). In addition, depending on the aperture it may cause vignetting (although this is less of the problem since a closed aperture will probably be used).


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## Random Orbits (Nov 30, 2012)

tron said:


> Jesse said:
> 
> 
> > Actually, apparently you're supposed to shift the camera, not the lens.
> ...



Sometimes, but really only when you have prominent near and far objects (parallax). For scenes that only are dominated by distant objects (i.e. skyscraper) or if you can get the strong foreground object easily within one frame, it doesn't really matter.

I'm curious as to how many people use something like that lens collar. I think I'd be tempted to get a pano setup that I can use for all my lenses rather than something that is so specific. A pano setup would also allow one to get an AOV wider than the shift limits of a lens.


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## neuroanatomist (Nov 30, 2012)

Random Orbits said:


> I think I'd be tempted to get a pano setup that I can use for all my lenses rather than something that is so specific. A pano setup would also allow one to get an AOV wider than the shift limits of a lens.



That's what I do. The problem is that if you do a shift pano, for example to capture a tall building, you lose the ability to use shift to correct the perspective, and that's one reason for using a TS-E lens in the first place.

I do have a multirow pano setup, but I haven't yet tried it with a vertically-shifted lens (I've done single rows like that, though).


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## Jesse (Nov 30, 2012)

So just shifting the lens also works fine? Probably gonna be buying the 24 TS-E next month....


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## neuroanatomist (Nov 30, 2012)

Jesse said:


> So just shifting the lens also works fine? Probably gonna be buying the 24 TS-E next month....



As pointed out above, it depends on the scene. Parallax becomes procressively more evident with closer subjects. If there are no close subjects in the scene, then just shifting the lens can work.


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## Random Orbits (Nov 30, 2012)

neuroanatomist said:


> I do have a multirow pano setup, but I haven't yet tried it with a vertically-shifted lens (I've done single rows like that, though).



RRS?


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## neuroanatomist (Nov 30, 2012)

Random Orbits said:


> neuroanatomist said:
> 
> 
> > I do have a multirow pano setup, but I haven't yet tried it with a vertically-shifted lens (I've done single rows like that, though).
> ...



Yep. I have the PG-02 LLR side mount gimbal head for the 600 II, and that just needed an MPR-CL II to make it into a multirow pano setup.


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## tron (Dec 1, 2012)

Random Orbits said:


> I think I'd be tempted to get a pano setup that I can use for all my lenses rather than something that is so specific. A pano setup would also allow one to get an AOV wider than the shift limits of a lens.


+1 That's why although I am aware of the TSE collar I didn't get it. It's much better to spend the money on a generic solution.


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## pwp (Dec 1, 2012)

Random Orbits said:


> RRS?


Hah! Yes we're drowning in acronyms. RRS=Really Right Stuff www.reallyrightstuff.com Brilliant gear.

-PW


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## cayenne (Dec 1, 2012)

scrappydog said:


> A couple more tips: if you don't have a level in your camera, bring a bubble level and shoot level. Also, if you do a shift pano (which is very cool value-add to the lens) and use Photoshop, use Photomerge because it saves time.


I'd also like to recommend the open source pano stitcher (and other uses)...Hugin:

http://hugin.sourceforge.net

I've just started using it, learning from watching tutorials on their site and youtube...but early results have been quite good.

HTH,

cayenne


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