# Advice needed on set up to shoot cats and dogs at shelter



## BobSanderson (Feb 24, 2012)

I was approached by a local shelter to shoot their little wards to place their cats and dogs faster in homes. I have a Canon 40D, a decent selection of lenses, a remote trigger and a 430 EX. I was wondering if there is a setup I can rig up to can bring once a week to the shelter to produce quality pictures for them.

I am thinking of simple light(s) (to avoid spooking the animals with the flash), some kind of stand for them to be on and a basic backdrop that is adaptable to whatever space they want me to use. What do you guys recommend? I would spend a few hundred dollars to get these little guys placed quicker.


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## cx1 (Feb 24, 2012)

I would avoid the lighting altogether if possible and use available light. The more changes you introduce will most likely make it harder to get the animal in a calm state.


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## dstppy (Feb 24, 2012)

cx1 said:


> I would avoid the lighting altogether if possible and use available light. The more changes you introduce will most likely make it harder to get the animal in a calm state.



+1 Animals are very a reasonably easy shoot; don't go crazy with the lighting. 

I'm not super pro so what I usually do before an event/shoot try to compensate for light by taking a shot and see if I have to adjust exposure and temperature first, then figure out the lowest iso I can use without blurring.

The choice of lens is going to matter more than anything.


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## truviz (Feb 24, 2012)

The other posters might be right about skipping lighting for now, hard to predict how the animal would react to bright lights. On the other hand some of these shelters are pretty gloomy places and you might need a bit of light boost from one or two simple clamp lights with CFL bulbs.

It would definitely be good to have a simple background however. I would suggest avoiding stands and cloth backdrops if you can, as they may be prone to being peed on or tipped over. If you are going to be shooting for extended periods it might be worth setting up a cheap cowboy studio backdrop stand with a paper roll. If the animals are not too large then perhaps a simple white foam core for the backdrop?


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## CanineCandidsByL (Feb 24, 2012)

I agree that light may not be necessary, but if you need to use one, stay with constantly on lamps. You don't need to get expensive. I haven't seen them in a while, but those cheap clip-on headboard lamps for kids or for dorm students would work well. I'd suggest LED bulbs. They are under $30 now and aren't very hot and unlike CFLs, they don't break and leave lots of glass and nasty chemicals. As far as a light stand, the clip-ons can attach to anything, so you may not need one. If you do, you shouldn't need anything special, just sturdy....and pee-proof. For dog shows, you can throw a self-made plastic stand around the base to protect against pee. Think of a solid version of the classic Christmas tree skirt. Personally, I just quick rinse the stands if something happens.

Whatever you use, make sure its secure. The animals are sometimes easily scared and if something falls around them, the shoot it off. They will constantly be looking in the direction of whatever fell in fear something else may drop...doesn't matter if it was heavy or light. If you want to use a backdrop, I'd suggest a simple sheet pinned to a wall. Make sure it doesn't flap around as that disturbs some animals.

Make sure cables aren't where the animals can chew on them. Not good for the cables, and if they carry power, not good for the animals.

For most animals, shoot at their level or below. For large animals, you may want to shoot from slightly above to make them appear smaller.

And if you aren't personally very familiar with rescue/shelter dogs, don't try to handle them. Let the volunteers take care of that as the dogs probably know them already. Besides, you need to remain free to take the pictures. You might also ask to start with the most stable dogs as you can work with them longer while you are getting setup. As you get familiar with the best settings, you can take whatever they want done most.

Hope it helps.


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## Z (Feb 24, 2012)

Personally I wouldn't bother with backdrops or lighting if possible. I would keep it simple, get the animal to fill most of the frame and use a fast lens to blur the hell out of the [presumably] ugly background.

If you're shooting cats, I would tend to do it around feeding time otherwise they might flat out refuse to look at you. Cats are ignorant creatures!


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## CanineCandidsByL (Feb 24, 2012)

My wife reminded of one other tip...if one is available, use a grooming stand or a small box. You get the animal raised up slightly, and it gives them an area to stay on. Grooming tables can be raised up to normal table height, this isn't necessary and the height may scare some animals, but does make it easier to shoot them.


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## Mt Spokane Photography (Feb 24, 2012)

Our local shelters would be impossible indoors without lights, but if you can manage outdoors Don't let them get backlit, and watch out for shadows. If there are too many shadows, a reflector will help fill them.

If you are doing the images for a billboard advertisement, lighting might be necessary, but not for web images.


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## BobSanderson (Feb 24, 2012)

Thanks for all the great ideas. 

My main concern was the one identified as the general gloominess of the place: cinder block lit by fluorescents. I thought perhaps a one light that was portable ( I know nothing on brands or types of lighting) and a simple backdrop would be a good start. I agree with those that suggest a stand of some kind - perhaps the grooming table if they have one on the premises. Keeping it simple so we can concentrate on getting engaging shots that will get these guys adopted seems to be job one. I figure a couple hours a week of volunteer work to see if this helps their overall effort should do it.

I have always had pets of all kinds in the house( from German Shepherds to weasels) . I am very comfortable with animals. At the present time, I have two cats who have had hundreds of photo taken without getting even one release from them. I do think the staff of the shelter will need to handle the dogs and cats just to get the work done. It should be interesting.

If there are any more ideas or specific gear recommendations I would appreciate them. 
Take care.


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## StevenBrianSamuels (Feb 28, 2012)

Shoot the dogs outside of their cages (I'm sure the people walk the dogs) and maybe use your flash for fill only (but try first without). In cages is just a reminder of them being in a shelter. Outside and happy will sell it to the people better.

As for cats, well I have 2, and they can either love the camera, or despise and shun away from it. One of my cat hams it up and the other runs from my lens. Hopefully the shelter has a place where people can take cats outside of the cages so they can bond with them. If so, shoot there. Agian, you may want to use flash for fill if needed but try it without.

Whatever you do remember to capture happy animals...That may take sometime for some but even a running dog is better then a dog with it's tail between its legs.

Good luck.


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## wickidwombat (Feb 28, 2012)

if you are going to use flash mixed with fluros get some gelsso you can balance your flash colour with the room lights
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Velcro-ROSCO-Flash-Gel-12pcs-LARGE-15x4cm-Strobist-CTO-/130495276661?pt=AU_Cameras_Photographic_Accessories&hash=item1e621fe675
then you can set your WB to fluro and the lighting should all be ok
these also work well for setting custom white balance in mixed lighting
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/82mm-82-mm-White-Balance-Lens-Cap-Custom-WB-Filter-NEW-/110757457937?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c9a8b011


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## CanineCandidsByL (Feb 28, 2012)

Don't forget to give an update and upload some pictures or links so we can see how it went.

Thanks!


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## wellfedCanuck (Feb 28, 2012)

The photography advice is all well and good but don't forget a bag of doggy treats!


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## Old Shooter (Feb 28, 2012)

Most shelters I have been at are pretty drab places!

Overhead fluorescent lighting is about as flattering to a dog or cat as it is to a human face, IMHO...

If you use a strobe, you have to get those pupils constricted somewhat or you will end up with red eye/green eye... I remember reading a great article on photographing pets and that pro would turn up the modeling lamps on her studio strobes to almost 100%... The ambient light was then bright enough to constrict the pupils and resulted in nice eyes when the strobes went off...

But, those are still flashes, and lots of animals would probably freak out... I agree with the suggestion to use some constant lighting. A simple black background to soak up any ugly shadows, one light camera left at about 45 degrees for some nice texture, and maybe a second light high and behind the animal for a little separation...

I think you could get some really nice shots! Be sure and post a couple! Good luck, and bless you for helping out those rescue animals!


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## Cinnamon (Feb 28, 2012)

I'm actually hoping to do a similar project at a local shelter here in NYC, so I really do appreciate everyone's tips...

The shelter where I got my rescue (Cinnamon) has, like most other shelters, really terrible lighting (and a horribly gloomy atmosphere in general), so I'd really love to see an update with pictures, to learn about what worked for you in the end.


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## Del (Feb 28, 2012)

From my experience of kennels you will need continuous lighting. Fortunately you can buy cheap kits (stands, umbrellas + bulbs) for about 150-200 bucks on eBay. Check out below:

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/340w-bulbs-2-Reflective-Umbrella-2-Studio-stand-Lighting-kit-/320857964408?pt=UK_Photography_StudioEquipment_RL&hash=item4ab49fff78#ht_2009wt_1151

I picked up a similar kit to the one listed above but with slightly more powerful lamps 125W (625W effective) low consumption bulbs that are rated 5500K so basically 'daylight' when you set WB. 2 lights per stand give you a lot of brightness, plus not difficult to place.

Plus they are noiseless, portable (come with carry-case), easy to setup and do not give off much heat (low energy bulbs), but create pleasant ambient light that will brighten up the animals day whilst making yours easier from an aperture & shutter speed perspective (animals will not sit and pose for too long!).


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## DBCdp (Feb 28, 2012)

Looks like you're on the right track, but you might also consider using live view. The shutter sound is quieter and you can see the end result...framing, dof, lighting...much easier. Also, be sure to use a long enough lens that you're not too close to them, they'll be much more comfortable and so will you in some cases. A zoom will allow you to make framing choices without moving around too much and distracting/scaring the skittish ones.

Anybody think to mention treats? If you've got several different kinds you'll be sure to appeal to almost every animal, and this get's that head up, eye's alert, ears forward like nothing else! Makes your shoot go a lot quicker and gives the best look of the animal up for adoption.

Good luck!


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## PaperTiger (Feb 28, 2012)

My biggest problem with shooting animals has always been with dogs that have hangups about reflections and seeing the mirror when I click the shutter. 

I like to use a speedlite and fire it backwards off the roof/walls behind me. Shoot at very wide apertures if you can; 1.2-1.8. That way it doesn't really matter what the shelter looks like inside. Extreme depth of field generally makes the animals look gentler and sweeter.


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## nebugeater (Feb 28, 2012)

Not to be cold or take this in the wrong direction. From reading the subject line I was hoping you were using a camera and not fire arms as first crossed my mind when reading it.


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## CanineCandidsByL (Feb 28, 2012)

Back to gear and lighting...don't forget a simple gray card to set your color balance. That alone can take a lot of gloomy cast of florescent tubes away. If you can go the next step and get a x-rite passport or equivilant, so much the better.


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## BobSanderson (Feb 28, 2012)

Thanks for all the great recommendations on lighting set ups/optoions (I know very little about this except about flash which I hope to avoid) and reminders on the grey card ( I have one in my kit and it does save a great deal of time) and all advice on approaching the animals (and choice of lens) to routinely get great pictures quickly. It will be an experiment and if it works I will update you guys.



DBCdp said:


> Looks like you're on the right track, but you might also consider using live view. The shutter sound is quieter and you can see the end result...framing, dof, lighting...much easier. Also, be sure to use a long enough lens that you're not too close to them, they'll be much more comfortable and so will you in some cases. A zoom will allow you to make framing choices without moving around too much and distracting/scaring the skittish ones.
> 
> Anybody think to mention treats? If you've got several different kinds you'll be sure to appeal to almost every animal, and this get's that head up, eye's alert, ears forward like nothing else! Makes your shoot go a lot quicker and gives the best look of the animal up for adoption.
> 
> Good luck!



Please post info on those treats. I have great cat treats but I'm curious on what you are using for the doggies.


Here are my two rescues from the shelter sitting happily at home:












Thanks again!


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## wellfedCanuck (Feb 28, 2012)

BobSanderson said:


> Please post info on those treats. I have great cat treats but I'm curious on what you are using for the doggies.


Most dogs are garbage cans, so almost anything works- bits of hotdog weiner, Snausages, those "bacon" things, but my dogs go mental over a kind of "peanut" treat sold only at Walmart. The only treat I've never had success with are those milkbones- for some reason they're hit-and-miss. But, like people- dogs all have different preferences, so 2 or 3 different types would guarantee that you had something for everyone.

Good luck, please post some of your shots!


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## DeadPixel (Feb 28, 2012)

Bob,

My cats don't mind flash at all, but of course the "laser" eyes effect is rather unattractive. I've found if I can get my cat to look away the effect is minimized to the point where the flash works and doesnt seem to affect the animal. Anything shiny works with my cats, I included a sample from recently below while playing around with perspective. A tin foil ball has been equally as distracting as the hershey kiss illustrated (no I did not let them eat it!) I've also found laser pointers work well for getting the attention of both cats and dogs, but if I shine my laser up where the cat can't get to it (ceiling or such) they will stay in that pose locked up on the point and I can photo to my hearts content. 

I haven't done much with dogs, but the trick that worked well with the picture below was having a second person hold a ball like they were going to throw it right behind me. Their dog would sit and wait for the throw to go after it, that period worked good for getting some "happy" shots of the dog. Of cousre this may not work with you're enviornment.

Good luck!

DeadPixel


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## nexus (Feb 28, 2012)

to shoot them you need a proper gun... (just kiddin')

now really .//. my lab hates flashes and strobes... try to use continuous light or, if you flash them... try to use as much indirect light as u can (not to blind them) maybe to bounce the light in ceiling... i have some good examples like that


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## BobSanderson (Feb 29, 2012)

DeadPixel, 
I like the humongous kiss with the tassel for the kitties...and the cute lab waiting for his ball. Both are very nice shots and thanks for the ideas to distract the subjects.


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## BobSanderson (Feb 29, 2012)

Nexus, 
I am going to try some form of steady lighting and a dark background first to see how it goes. Is Dino as good a boy as he looks?


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## nexus (Feb 29, 2012)

As you can see there i blinded him with a 580 in a alu foil
also you can notice that he loves the bra


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## Ryusui (Mar 1, 2012)

StevenBrianSamuels said:


> Shoot the dogs outside of their cages (I'm sure the people walk the dogs) and maybe use your flash for fill only (but try first without). In cages is just a reminder of them being in a shelter. Outside and happy will sell it to the people better.
> 
> ...
> 
> Whatever you do remember to capture happy animals...That may take sometime for some but even a running dog is better then a dog with it's tail between its legs.


+1
If at all posible, try to capture the animals in a happy and joyful state. Playing with an employee/volunteer is a great idea. You want to showcase the animal's personality, not remind people that they're in a cage.

Also, kudos to you for this. Our dog is a shelter pup, and all future dogs will be as well.


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