# high-speed sync with wireless radio trigger?



## niels123 (Nov 29, 2015)

My current Cactus triggers are limited to 1/200th of a second. Is it possible to go all the way to 1/8000 by only changing the radio triggers? At the moment, I don't have budget to change the studio strobe.

I'd like to shoot in my studio at 1/1000 (or faster) with my current (cheap) studio strobe and my 600EX-RT speedlites at 1/2 or full power. Is it possible or am I asking too much?


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## tpatana (Nov 29, 2015)

I'm using the Yongnuo 622 triggers, and they support up to 1/8000. Check your strobes too. One of my strobes support, speedlites too, but another strobe doesn't.


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## Bam-Bam (Nov 29, 2015)

You absolutely can shoot at 1/1000 (or faster) in studio with the 600EX-RT speedlites at ½ or full power; however, don’t expect to get too much life out of such a setup as the power-drain, heat, recycle-time, etc. will all provide diminishing returns using High Speed Sync. You really want to fire those at a much lower power setting (1/8 to maybe ½ max) but one speedlite usually wont’ cut it. 

You’d be much better served by ganging up ~ 4 – 8 speedlites and then dropping the power levels on each unit way down . . . Helps to have the ST E3 RT transmitter too. 

Cool demo video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDEoMHRKNeo

However, if you’re wanting to add studio strobes to the speedlite mix, then you’re in for a real headache. The studio strobes cannot fire in High Speed sync. Never have. Never will. If you want to add Studio strobes to the mix, this is “doable” too, just as long as you can live with the following “compromises”: 

1. Set up your speedlites (anywhere from 1 – 16 units) to fire wirelessly from the camera-mounted ST E3 Transmitter. 

2. The speedlites and the studio strobes will have to be used at / below the camera’s sync speed (I generally use 1/160 in studio) 

3. Attach your wireless studio strobe transmitter to the PC port on the camera (I use a PCB CyberSync transmitter along with a FlashZebra Screwlock PC to Right Angle 2.5mm plug (http://flashzebra.com/products/0148/) attached to my Canon 5DIII. *All studio strobes have to be configured to fire optically. * The only reason to attach the CyberSync is so that I can adjust the power settings up/down on each strobe wirelessly; but they will NOT fire wirelessly with the ST E3 RT transmitter attached to the camera hot-shoe. That’s the major compromise you have to make. You can’t have two separate “wireless” triggers firing different units, but you CAN shoot one system wirelessly and the other optically at the same time. That works great for me; I just shoot, chimp, adjust power, and then shoot again until I’ve got right in camera.

If you’re looking to “freeze” motion in studio, such as with water splashes, etc., then just shoot in a really dark environment and then drop the power settings on the strobes and speedlites way down to (~ 1/128 to 1/256 if you can go that low) to get your t.5 durations way down to ~ 1/8000 or so, and then fire away. A shutter speed setting of ~ 1/160 – 1/200 is much longer than is needed to shoot in such conditions . . . you would not need to use 1/1000. 

Hope that helps!


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## tpatana (Nov 29, 2015)

Bam-Bam said:


> However, if you’re wanting to add studio strobes to the speedlite mix, then you’re in for a real headache. The studio strobes cannot fire in High Speed sync. Never have. Never will.



Why such wrong information? There's several different strobes that can do HSS. The one I have is RoveLight600, and it goes to 1/8000 when triggering with my YongNuo 622.



> 2. The speedlites and the studio strobes will have to be used at / below the camera’s sync speed (I generally use 1/160 in studio)



Again, not true. Most strobes cannot go over the sync speed, but some can. If yours cannot, that's too bad.



> All studio strobes have to be configured to fire optically.



Again wrong. Maybe true for your setup, but you can set them with wireless triggers for sure.



> You can’t have two separate “wireless” triggers firing different units,



And wrong again. I've seen often setup when there's 2 wireless triggers on one camera triggering different lights. Works just fine.


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## Pookie (Nov 29, 2015)

Bam-Bam said:


> You absolutely can shoot at 1/1000 (or faster) in studio with the 600EX-RT speedlites at ½ or full power; however, don’t expect to get too much life out of such a setup as the power-drain, heat, recycle-time, etc. will all provide diminishing returns using High Speed Sync. You really want to fire those at a much lower power setting (1/8 to maybe ½ max) but one speedlite usually wont’ cut it.
> 
> You’d be much better served by ganging up ~ 4 – 8 speedlites and then dropping the power levels on each unit way down . . . Helps to have the ST E3 RT transmitter too.
> 
> ...



Absolutely wrong information here... on many fronts. 

As for HSS...maybe 5 years ago it was this way but my Profoto's B1's do this, and both of my Elinchrom Rangers's also do this. There are a few Chinese knock off that now offer HSS also.


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## Besisika (Nov 30, 2015)

Pookie said:


> There are a few Chinese knock off that now offer HSS also.


Jinbei Discovery 1200, but you will need a budget.


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## risc32 (Nov 30, 2015)

As for your first question in your second sentence, yes.with my phottix Odin I can use the canon HSS feature with my canon wireless flashes and camera. No big deal these days but I still think it's great. No longer am I restricted by line of site, and wasting a 580ex's light output as a communication trigger device.
. As for the strobes, and I guess you mean either monolights or powerpack arrangement, that can be tricky. Tricky due to the recent rapid advances that have been made in regards to lighting tech. Lets just be clear about the differences between using a flash of some sort at a fast shutter speed and HSS. You are heading into the area of diminished returns and flash duration and it's related effects. i'm not sure we need to go there. Out of curiosity how is it that you need something on the order of 1/1000th in a studio environment?


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## Halfrack (Nov 30, 2015)

Lots of dated info from Bam-Bam regarding the state of studio lights and triggers. Bam-Bam does make very valid points with freezing motion with light - where a very fast light doesn't give a crap what your shutter speed is. Things like TriggerTrap and Promote both make stuff to help with triggering when humans are the slow part. So what you're shooting makes a big difference.

What is your current studio strobe? To do HSS you'll most likely need to replace it. If you want to use your EX600's as part of the lighting setup, invest in the Phottix Odin system - you'll get full TTL and HSS from both the Photix Indra500 lights, plus your speedlights when used with their receiver.

The Profoto B1/B2 systems are great and will do HSS/TTL together, but don't allow for additional TTL/HSS components to be added.

Priolite does HotSync all the way to 1/8000th, where it's a single burst, but again, it's within their system only.


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## niels123 (Nov 30, 2015)

Halfrack said:


> Lots of dated info from Bam-Bam regarding the state of studio lights and triggers. Bam-Bam does make very valid points with freezing motion with light - where a very fast light doesn't give a crap what your shutter speed is. Things like TriggerTrap and Promote both make stuff to help with triggering when humans are the slow part. So what you're shooting makes a big difference.
> 
> What is your current studio strobe? To do HSS you'll most likely need to replace it. If you want to use your EX600's as part of the lighting setup, invest in the Phottix Odin system - you'll get full TTL and HSS from both the Photix Indra500 lights, plus your speedlights when used with their receiver.
> 
> ...



Currently I have 2x 600EX-RT and one monolight, which is a Menik CM-600.

I don't desperately need 1/1000th and currently I don't have the budget to purchase new speedlites or new monolites. However, it would be nice if I could freeze action (e.g. with jumping models and water) with my currentl lights and without investing a lot of money.

In the future, I will most likely sell the Menik monolight and purchase two high-quality monolights that support HSS, but currently it is out of my budget.


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## Maui5150 (Nov 30, 2015)

To give you CORRECT information... almost ANY STROBE can fire in High Speed Sync. It is all about the triggers.

I have shot my old Photogenic Powerlights like the PL1250DR and the PL2500DR at above 1/2000 of a second, and it it easy to fire my current Dynalites at above 1/4000 of a second. 

To do this, I have been using the PocketWizard FlexTT5 and Mini1 as the triggers, and you have to set them to be High Speed Sync and VOILA! All of the sudden you can shoot High Speed Sync.

The other neat trick with the pocket wizard is they can act as repeaters so you can actually configure it so you can not only fire your strobes in High Speed Sync, but also fire a 2nd camera remotely that is also in sync with the strobes. This took a little more playing around with and is more about labeling your transmitters since they will have different channels, and you have to turn off autofocus on the second camera Lens MOST of the time. I have been able to shoot with Both lenses pre-focusing but sometimes you will miss the 2nd camera going if you don't. 

Lastly, some of these ANTIQUE packs are actually built to fire quickly. While the Profotos are some of the best out there, especially with having short duration which can help with freezing motion, the Einsteins and packs like the Dynalite M2000ER (now AP1600) have extremely short durations and this can further be enhanced when used with their Bi-Tube heads. 

I picked up my Dynalite M2000ER and a 4080 head for less than the cost of a single 600EX-RT. So I may not have TTL, but hey 2000Watts of power and fast recycling time for playing around in the studio... Really hard to beat bang for buck. 

I also have a pair of 600EX-RTs and know some photographers that is all they going to, but monolights and pack and head systems do offer a lot of power and can be cheap these days.

You will start seeing battery powered or capable monolights with TTL appearing more. The Dynalite Baja is cheaply made, but functional and I have one of these when I need punch, especially shooting night fashion, but have seen some even stronger ones coming down the line in the next year.


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## Boromir883 (Nov 30, 2015)

niels123 said:


> Halfrack said:
> 
> 
> > Lots of dated info from Bam-Bam regarding the state of studio lights and triggers. Bam-Bam does make very valid points with freezing motion with light - where a very fast light doesn't give a crap what your shutter speed is. Things like TriggerTrap and Promote both make stuff to help with triggering when humans are the slow part. So what you're shooting makes a big difference.
> ...



Hi Niels,
the easiest and cheapest way to stop motion in studio is: wait until night, dimm down / switch of the lights, so that you have black exposures (without firing the strobe) -should be the case with 1/200s f10 iso100
So motion is stopped by flash (1/1000 or much shorter), no further exposure while the shutter is open


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## niels123 (Nov 30, 2015)

Boromir883 said:


> niels123 said:
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If I ask a model to jump and then fire my camera 1/160th of a second is not enough to freeze the motion. If I chooose faster shutter speeds (e.g. 1/250) I get to see my shutter as a black band in the photo. I think it's because the limit is the sync speed of my Cactus V5 radio triggers, but also my current monolight (Menik CM600) doesn't give a short flash burst. At least the flash burst is not short enough to freeze action.


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## Boromir883 (Dec 1, 2015)

niels123 said:


> Boromir883 said:
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> > niels123 said:
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wenn its really dark, you may open the shutter for 1 minute and you wont see your jumping model at the pic. in ideal case, the only light at the sensor is from flash - and flash duration is less than 1/1000s


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## privatebydesign (Dec 1, 2015)

Boromir883 said:


> niels123 said:
> 
> 
> > If I ask a model to jump and then fire my camera 1/160th of a second is not enough to freeze the motion. If I chooose faster shutter speeds (e.g. 1/250) I get to see my shutter as a black band in the photo. I think it's because the limit is the sync speed of my Cactus V5 radio triggers, but also my current monolight (Menik CM600) doesn't give a short flash burst. At least the flash burst is not short enough to freeze action.
> ...



The CM#00 range of lights have a flash duration of between 1/600 and 1/1,500 sec depending on the model, this figure is usually at full power and depending on if it is IGBT or traditional circuitry that figure will go up or down as the power goes down. It is easy to test.

In a dimly lite studio take a picture of something that is revolving, a fan or a bicycle wheel for example, then with your shutter speed set to 1/160 adjust the flash power and aperture to get consistent exposures, look at the blur in the images, the less blur the shorter the flash duration.


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## Pookie (Dec 1, 2015)

To really get technical here guys, you need a flash with the shortest t.1 times. No matter what your shutter speed is set at or darkest setting motion will only be truly frozen with a flash duration as short as possible. The quicker the pulse dies to 90% dictates how well you'll be able to "freeze" the moment. If it's a slower moving subject it may not matter as much but with subjects moving quickly (water drops) it will make all the difference in the world. 

The only cheap heads I know that are close to doing this are Elinchrom Quadra A heads (action) and Buff's that have a very short t.1 time specifically for these types of situations. There may be others I am unaware of. The only real problem this presents is you can't get HSS with the A heads versions... only the slower S (standard) heads with more normal t.1 times.

Typical speedlites, IGBT, are also capable of this but are very power limited when trying to reduce the t.1 times.

A good description of the t.1 and t.5 times can be found on Buff's site...

http://www.paulcbuff.com/sfe-flashduration.php


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## privatebydesign (Dec 1, 2015)

Pookie said:


> To really get technical here guys, you need a flash with the shortest t.1 times. No matter what your shutter speed is set at or darkest setting motion will only be truly frozen with a flash duration as short as possible. The quicker the pulse dies to 90% dictates how well you'll be able to "freeze" the moment. If it's a slower moving subject it may not matter as much but with subjects moving quickly (water drops) it will make all the difference in the world.
> 
> The only cheap heads I know that are close to doing this are Elinchrom Quadra A heads (action) and Buff's that have a very short t.1 time specifically for these types of situations. There may be others I am unaware of. The only real problem this presents is you can't get HSS with the A heads versions... only the slower S (standard) heads with more normal t.1 times.
> 
> ...



There is a very important and fundamental difference between Hypersync and High Speed Sync (HSS). Elinchrome do not do HSS on any model (http://www.elinchrom.com/learn/hss-hs.html), they do a proprietary Hypersync technique based on the work by PocketWizard called Hi-Sync. 

HSS works very differently than the delayed start and slow t1 times of Hypersync/Hi-Sync, it works by very fast pulses of light timed to cover the entire move of both shutter curtains. The Profoto B1 and B2's use true HSS (very high frequency multiple pulses per exposure), as do all Canon Speedlites, for perfectly even lighting across the image plane and more power control.


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## Pookie (Dec 1, 2015)

privatebydesign said:


> Pookie said:
> 
> 
> > To really get technical here guys, you need a flash with the shortest t.1 times. No matter what your shutter speed is set at or darkest setting motion will only be truly frozen with a flash duration as short as possible. The quicker the pulse dies to 90% dictates how well you'll be able to "freeze" the moment. If it's a slower moving subject it may not matter as much but with subjects moving quickly (water drops) it will make all the difference in the world.
> ...



The new Elinchrom do do HSS now, I was just at a trade show and saw their newest version... and yes, I do use PW to trigger my older Quadras in this pseudo HSS fashion before I moved to the Profotos. In truth though I never use HSS and only go above 1/200 with the X100S. Even with the B1's I never use HSS.


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## privatebydesign (Dec 1, 2015)

Pookie said:


> privatebydesign said:
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> > Pookie said:
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Which Elichrome model does HSS? If it is triggered by the Skyport Plus HS it is not HSS, it is Hypersync/Hi-Sync.


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## niels123 (Dec 1, 2015)

privatebydesign said:


> Boromir883 said:
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> > niels123 said:
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I did the fan-test and it's completely hopeless. At iso100, f/1.2 and 1/4th the picture is severy underexposed in my studio. I decided to mount an ND filter because I didn't want to stop too much down so I started with flash at f/1.2 ;D All shutter speeds are 1/160th. The first photo is without flash, the others are at power settings 1.0 (min) - 6.0 (max) with full-stop increments:


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## privatebydesign (Dec 1, 2015)

niels123 said:


> privatebydesign said:
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> > Boromir883 said:
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Good work, what speed did you have the fan at? It might well be going much faster than you think, if you had it on speed three turn it down to speed one and try again. If you can figure out a way to work out the revs and the diameter you can work out the speed of the ends of the blades.

Though it does look like your flash is the older style of variable voltage style discharge, that is the t1 time is the same but the voltage, and so the output, is lower, rather than the IGBT style t1 time getting shorter as the power goes down because the light is extinguished early.


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## niels123 (Dec 1, 2015)

This fan is a monster ;D It was already at its slowest speed.

Nevertheless, I use the same conditions when shooting models and have tried several times to shoot them jumping. There is clear motion blur in the face then, although they are, obviously, moving much slower than the fan.

From my logic, either the shutter speed or the flash duration are the limiting factor, depending on which one is the fastest. If my flash burst would be 1/50th of a second and my shutter speed 1/8000th of a second, the short exposure will still freeze motion. This is what I aim for, so I don't have to replace my camera or ligths yet, just a (cheap) radio trigger.


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## Boromir883 (Dec 1, 2015)

I am a slightely confused - we started to stop motion of an jumping model - now we are talking to stop a fast rotating fan
maybe something different?


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## privatebydesign (Dec 1, 2015)

niels123 said:


> This fan is a monster ;D It was already at its slowest speed.
> 
> Nevertheless, I use the same conditions when shooting models and have tried several times to shoot them jumping. There is clear motion blur in the face then, although they are, obviously, moving much slower than the fan.
> 
> From my logic, either the shutter speed or the flash duration are the limiting factor, depending on which one is the fastest. If my flash burst would be 1/50th of a second and my shutter speed 1/8000th of a second, the short exposure will still freeze motion. This is what I aim for, so I don't have to replace my camera or ligths yet, just a (cheap) radio trigger.



The logic is sound, though your flash will be in the 1/600 -1/800 range judging by the specs I can find online. So finding a trigger that can 'HyperSync' your lights is the only option. Ask on FlashHavoc.com, they know everything about every third party trigger over there!

I am lucky, being in the USA we can get PCB Einsteins for a very good price and they are IGBT controlled flashes with very short flash durations at lower powers. 

Cheapest HSS options would be the Chinese clone Speedlites, but FlashHavic will have the lowdown on them all.





Boromir883 said:


> I am a slightely confused - we started to stop motion of an jumping model - now we are talking to stop a fast rotating fan
> maybe something different?



No we are not necessarily trying to stop the fan, we were trying to establish if a lower power led to a shorter flash duration, this is a key aspect to stopping motion with flash. It turns out it is more likely the CM#00 series is a voltage regulated flash, which means the flash duration is the same whatever the power level. If it had been the more modern IGBT design then as the power level was dropped the fan blur would decrease.

We don't expect the model to move as fast as the fan, we just need a constant speed of movement to gauge the flash duration.


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## Boromir883 (Dec 1, 2015)

oh, i understand - the model is a figure skater ;D


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## Pookie (Dec 1, 2015)

niels123 said:


> This fan is a monster ;D It was already at its slowest speed.
> 
> Nevertheless, I use the same conditions when shooting models and have tried several times to shoot them jumping. There is clear motion blur in the face then, although they are, obviously, moving much slower than the fan.
> 
> From my logic, either the shutter speed or the flash duration are the limiting factor, depending on which one is the fastest. If my flash burst would be 1/50th of a second and my shutter speed 1/8000th of a second, the short exposure will still freeze motion. This is what I aim for, so I don't have to replace my camera or ligths yet, just a (cheap) radio trigger.



The flash duration is indeed your limiting factor... new lights with the shortest t.1 times. Either B1, Buff's,Elinchrom A heads or possibly a ton of speedlites. With a longer t.1 time the light will tail off slowly and always produce some form of blur. 



privatebydesign said:


> Which Elichrome model does HSS? If it is triggered by the Skyport Plus HS it is not HSS, it is Hypersync/Hi-Sync.



Elinchrom is developing a new system to combat Profoto, as a longtime user I get to see new toys in hopes that I spread the word or use. The release date was not given but the ambiguous, sometime in 2016, possibly 2017. The Skyport Plus HS is a new trigger for the older (newly re-named) Quadras's. A day late and a dollar short they are. Did not have the heart to turn down the invite or tell the reps I have already moved to Profoto.


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## Luds34 (Dec 1, 2015)

Pookie said:


> The new Elinchrom do do HSS now, I was just at a trade show and saw their newest version... and yes, I do use PW to trigger my older Quadras in this pseudo HSS fashion before I moved to the Profotos. In truth though I never use HSS and only go above 1/200 with the X100S. Even with the B1's I never use HSS.



What do you do when you're shooting outdoors (say with your 135mm) and want narrow DOF, big bokeh? ND filters? And if so, what density, like a 3 stop typically?


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## Pookie (Dec 1, 2015)

Luds34 said:


> Pookie said:
> 
> 
> > The new Elinchrom do do HSS now, I was just at a trade show and saw their newest version... and yes, I do use PW to trigger my older Quadras in this pseudo HSS fashion before I moved to the Profotos. In truth though I never use HSS and only go above 1/200 with the X100S. Even with the B1's I never use HSS.
> ...



I do shoot HSS occasionally with the Profoto rig but I don't like HSS as it is a real battery drain. I'm also not a fan of ETTL as I like to drive and pick my exposure. Typically I shoot with ND's and have a range of them from 2-10 stops. My most used is either a 3 or 5 stop. The other trick is to hide your subject in the shade of your mod... I often use a 5 foot Octa and this can provide excellent coverage of most models in very harsh lighting outdoors. I use a 10'x10' 2-stop scrim from Matthews to knock down light sometimes also.

135 with a 5 stop...


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## privatebydesign (Dec 1, 2015)

Pookie said:


> privatebydesign said:
> 
> 
> > Which Elichrome model does HSS? If it is triggered by the Skyport Plus HS it is not HSS, it is Hypersync/Hi-Sync.
> ...



So, exactly as I said, _"Elinchrome do not do HSS on any model (http://www.elinchrom.com/learn/hss-hs.html), they do a proprietary Hypersync technique based on the work by PocketWizard called Hi-Sync. "_


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## Luds34 (Dec 1, 2015)

Pookie said:


> Luds34 said:
> 
> 
> > What do you do when you're shooting outdoors (say with your 135mm) and want narrow DOF, big bokeh? ND filters? And if so, what density, like a 3 stop typically?
> ...



Excellent, thanks for the info. I too am not a big fan of E-TTL. It's great for the "quick and dirty" on camera flash (hopefully bouncing of a ceiling or wall) running around a room grabbing snapshots. 

One last question, do you ever use gels at all shooting outdoors? I'd think the flash and sunlight should be similar white balance... however (and this is applicable shooting in shade in general strobes or not) I've never liked how yellow the sunny background turns out sometimes in my experience.


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## privatebydesign (Dec 1, 2015)

Luds34 said:


> One last question, do you ever use gels at all shooting outdoors? I'd think the flash and sunlight should be similar white balance... however (and this is applicable shooting in shade in general strobes or not) I've never liked how yellow the sunny background turns out sometimes in my experience.



Flash is balanced for close to mid day sun around 5,500ºK. I always use gels 1/4, 1/2 and full cut CTO and CTS's when using flash in the morning or afternoon, unless I want a lot of subject background colour contrast then I might use a CTB and play with the WB.


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## Pookie (Dec 1, 2015)

Luds34 said:


> Pookie said:
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> > Luds34 said:
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No problem, glad I could help... I do sometimes use 1/4 to possibly a 1/2 cut CTO gel on the baffles of my Octas to provide a color balance. You shooting weddings?


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## Halfrack (Dec 2, 2015)

niels123 said:


> Currently I have 2x 600EX-RT and one monolight, which is a Menik CM-600.
> 
> I don't desperately need 1/1000th and currently I don't have the budget to purchase new speedlites or new monolites. However, it would be nice if I could freeze action (e.g. with jumping models and water) with my currentl lights and without investing a lot of money.
> 
> In the future, I will most likely sell the Menik monolight and purchase two high-quality monolights that support HSS, but currently it is out of my budget.



Ok, good news is you can use the two 600EX-RT speedlights and get up to 1/8000th in HSS - but you'll either have one on the camera, or use the ST-E3-RT or the knock off version on camera. That'll get you every shot no black bars. 

Your Menik is what's causing your issue - the flash duration (see t1 and such above on the Paul C Buff site) is too long. It's also dependent on the XSync speed of your camera - somewhere between 1/180th and 1/250th. Replace it with something faster, that either does HSS or Hypersync or integrates with the rest of your flashes.


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## Maui5150 (Dec 2, 2015)

Forget where I saw the charts, but the ProFotos had teh shorted duration, but are also a fortune, the Einsteins were the best bang for your buck, and near the top were the Dynalite Sport Packs (like the M2000ER or AP1600) With Bi-Tube head, at Full power is around 1/3000 (t.5) and 1.2 second recycle. At 1/4 power (400WS) that is around 1/7000. I forget the Profoto numbers, but think they were over 1/10K and the Einsteins were in the middle. 

For Dynalite, the Bi-Tube head is key. A normal 2040 etc is only around 1/1000, so around 300% decrease in flash duration for same power using the bi-tube head.


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## privatebydesign (Dec 2, 2015)

Maui5150 said:


> Forget where I saw the charts, but the ProFotos had teh shorted duration, but are also a fortune, the Einsteins were the best bang for your buck, and near the top were the Dynalite Sport Packs (like the M2000ER or AP1600) With Bi-Tube head, at Full power is around 1/3000 (t.5) and 1.2 second recycle. At 1/4 power (400WS) that is around 1/7000. I forget the Profoto numbers, but think they were over 1/10K and the Einsteins were in the middle.
> 
> For Dynalite, the Bi-Tube head is key. A normal 2040 etc is only around 1/1000, so around 300% decrease in flash duration for same power using the bi-tube head.



The Eisteins can be as fast as 1/13500 sec, but that is at only 2.5Ws, look under the 'comparison data' tab here. http://www.paulcbuff.com/e640.php


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## Luds34 (Dec 2, 2015)

privatebydesign, pookie,

Thanks for sharing your uses/experiences on gels, I appreciated it.


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## niels123 (Dec 2, 2015)

What about these receivers?

http://www.amazon.com/Godox-Wireless-Transmitter-Monolight-Speedlite/dp/B00U5U4MX6

Would they work and allow me to choose shutter speeds faster than 1/1000th?


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