# ND Filter system for landscape photography question



## Otter (Jun 17, 2012)

I am looking at getting a filter system for shooting landscapes. I was looking at a Cokin filter holder. I do not know too much about filters to be honest, other then the results look very nice. I was also looking at Singh-Ray ND filters. I was unsure what people recommend. a 4 x 6 or a P series filter?
As well, I heard a good start is to get a 2 stop graduated filter.

Any advice for someone starting out in the filter department?

thanks!


----------



## neuroanatomist (Jun 17, 2012)

What's the widest angle lens you plan to use with the filter holder?


----------



## Otter (Jun 17, 2012)

neuroanatomist said:


> What's the widest angle lens you plan to use with the filter holder?



I will be using a 16-35 2.8 L


----------



## neuroanatomist (Jun 17, 2012)

Then you'll want 4x6" filters, or Cokin X-Pro.


----------



## iohansen (Jun 17, 2012)

Have a look at the Hitech 100x150mm graduated filter range (they have both hard and soft). Would recommend a set of 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9 (hard or soft) filters. They also have a low profile holder for wide angles, but this has less stacking possibilities than the normal one. They are a bit less expensive than Lee, but more expensive than Cokin (which may not have a complete neutral effect, causing a bit of colour cast in some situations).


----------



## Razor2012 (Jun 17, 2012)

iohansen said:


> Have a look at the Hitech 100x150mm graduated filter range (they have both hard and soft). Would recommend a set of 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9 (hard or soft) filters. They also have a low profile holder for wide angles, but this has less stacking possibilities than the normal one. They are a bit less expensive than Lee, but more expensive than Cokin (which may not have a complete neutral effect, causing a bit of colour cast in some situations).



I'm looking at Lee right now. The system is alittle pricey but from what I've been told, very good.


----------



## stanleykozak (Jun 17, 2012)

I started using the Cokin Z series grad filters. After a while, I upgraded to Singh-Ray and then changed them all to Lee. Big expensive mistake. I advise is to go straight to the Lee. Basically - Cokin and Singh-Ray filers produce a magenta colour cast, especially when you stack them. So for instance if you stack a grad ND and an ND.

Go with Lee.

Have a look here - these are all taken with Lee filters. http://www.flickr.com/photos/stanleykozak/


----------



## Jason Beiko (Jun 18, 2012)

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=883069&highlight=lee+circular+polarizer


This is the system I use.


----------



## FunPhotons (Jun 18, 2012)

The commonly available Cokin P series has a wide angle bracket that I don't believe vignettes on my 16-35. Haven't had a chance to exhaustively test it though.


----------



## drjlo (Jun 18, 2012)

I really like the Tiffen Water White ND and Grad filters, which seem to have no color casts or IQ degradation. I buy ND filters one size larger than my lens then use a step-up ring to avoid any vignetting. 

http://www.hurlbutvisuals.com/blog/2010/02/filtration-beware-of-the-reaper-of-cheap-glass/


----------



## Chewy734 (Jun 18, 2012)

If you're willing to wait a couple months, I'd recommend the Lee filter system. You should be able to get the foundation kit and some nice resin ND filters pretty quickly. But, if you want a 10-stop ND filter, I've been on backorder for 3 months now on the Big Stopper.


----------



## NormanBates (Jun 18, 2012)

I haven't tried Cokin, Lee, Hitech, etc, but I know some filters can basically kill your image, and that includes some not-so-cheap options. Check my tests here: http://www.similaar.com/foto/lenstests/lenstestsn.html


----------



## friedmud (Jun 18, 2012)

Go Lee. Grab a foundation kit and I would recommend a slim adaptor ring (for less chance of vignetting on a 16-35).

I've been using them for years and have never been disappointed.


----------



## adhocphotographer (Jun 18, 2012)

Thanks guys, this is somthing i've been pondering over for a while, and you have provided some useful input...

Though, and please forgive if i'm sounding like a newbe, can't you use multiple exposures and photoshop to simulate a grad ND filter? Thats what i do anyway... Surely that is one of the advantages of digital photography... take one shot then stop it down as much as you want for a second, then blend in pp? just me 2 pence! 

That being said i do want a "big stopper" for those water scences where i just cant slow down the shutter enough!


----------



## cezargalang (Jun 18, 2012)

adhocphotographer said:


> Thanks guys, this is somthing i've been pondering over for a while, and you have provided some useful input...
> 
> Though, and please forgive if i'm sounding like a newbe, can't you use multiple exposures and photoshop to simulate a grad ND filter? Thats what i do anyway... Surely that is one of the advantages of digital photography... take one shot then stop it down as much as you want for a second, then blend in pp? just me 2 pence!
> 
> That being said i do want a "big stopper" for those water scences where i just cant slow down the shutter enough!




ND grads i think are bought because it helps you reduce workflow, and personally I'd wanna see the output myself then and there. 

I'm using a .9,.6 SE Lee NDG 100mm filters, they're pretty good, but i dont have the money to buy the holder atm. It's easier to hand hold than the 85mm filters on wide angles. I've also used Hitech ones and they're pretty good too  For ND's and CPL i use Screw in filters.


----------



## bvukich (Jun 18, 2012)

Free (almost) answer: learn how to black card.

You can pull more stops than is feasible with even the most diverse filter collection.
You can grad at any rate your heart desires.
You can even match terrain if you you're handy with a scissors.

You'll probably still want a modest collection of ND filters for when you need to adjust the overall exposure dramatically, but you wont need the grads.


----------



## adhocphotographer (Jun 18, 2012)

cezargalang said:


> ND grads i think are bought because it helps you reduce workflow, and personally I'd wanna see the output myself then and there.
> 
> I'm using a .9,.6 SE Lee NDG 100mm filters, they're pretty good, but i dont have the money to buy the holder atm. It's easier to hand hold than the 85mm filters on wide angles. I've also used Hitech ones and they're pretty good too  For ND's and CPL i use Screw in filters.



True...  I guess i should give them a go, then i can choose!  good idea to hand hold... i guess with that method you can "feather" the filter during the shot... Think i might buy a ND Grad minus the holder... cheers for the tip! 

ps - here are some of my shots from a recent trip to Iceland without ND grad edited in about 5 min with photoshop (including starting PS; I timed it-ish)!  

http://www.adhocphotographer.com/photoblog/Entries/2012/5/26_Iceland.html#2


----------



## ereka (Jun 18, 2012)

bvukich said:


> Free (almost) answer: learn how to black card.
> 
> You can pull more stops than is feasible with even the most diverse filter collection.
> You can grad at any rate your heart desires.
> ...



Sorry, but you've lost me there - how do you 'black card'?


----------



## Kernuak (Jun 18, 2012)

First off, for many circumstances, a 2 stop grad won't be enough, 3 stop is really the minimum and I often need to combine a 3 and a 2 stop grad. If you can only afford one filter, then a 3 stop is the one to go for first, but if shooting away from the sun, it may sometimes be too much. Whether or not you get a hard or soft grad (set) depends on what you are likely to be shooting. Hard grads are designed for scenes where the horizon (or other transition line) is straight, such as when the sun is setting over the ocean or when you have a single hill/mountain. Soft grads are designed for when the horizon isn't straight, such as when you have a mountain range, with variable heights.
As for brand, the Cokin mounts are adequate (plastic, but they do the job), but avoid their filters. I used to use Hi-Tech filters and they don't produce a noticeable cast, but they aren't in the same league as either Lee or Singh-Ray. I now use a Lee set, so my Cokin P sized reverse grad from Singh-Ray is no longer usable, but I used to use it all the time (sometmies when I shouldn't because it was so much better than my Hi-Tech filters), I never had any problems with colour cast. I keep looking at getting a larger replacment, as it is invaluable for sunsets, but the exchange rate isn't good at the moment, so they are expensive.

Here are some examples:

Singh-Ray 3 stop revers grad (with some HDR on the rockpool):



Fire and Water by Kernuak, on Flickr

Lee 2+3 stop:



Kilve Pill under a Mackerel Sky by Kernuak, on Flickr


----------



## danjwark (Jun 18, 2012)

I use the Cokin P series which will go up to an 82mm filter size. I have both the triple holder as well as the single. The triple vignettes badly on my 10-20mm but the single does not. I have had good success with the Cokin brand of filters and have not had any colour cast. Cheap eBay ones do colour cast badly - which I found out the hard way. I have a Cokin ND8 grad (3 stop) that I use mostly. I'm not sure I would bother with a 2 stop as I often find the 3 stop is often not enough but maybe that's just me. Lee filters are great/ likely better but not cheap!!!


----------



## bvukich (Jun 18, 2012)

ereka said:


> bvukich said:
> 
> 
> > Free (almost) answer: learn how to black card.
> ...



In a typical high DR situation of a dim foreground and bright sky, you expose for the ground and use a piece of non-reflective black cardstock to cover the sky for part of the exposure to effectively reduce the exposure of the sky.

A quick Google search for "black card photography technique" yielded this reasonably good explanation:

http://hanjies.blogspot.com/2009/10/black-card-photography-part-i.html

If you've ever done darkroom work (ok, I haven't either), you're effectively doing a dodge while taking the exposure instead of when making the print.


----------



## cliffwang (Jun 18, 2012)

Can anyone tell me where I can find the product information of Lee NDG?


----------



## Kernuak (Jun 18, 2012)

cliffwang said:


> Can anyone tell me where I can find the product information of Lee NDG?


http://www.leefilters.com/index.php/camera/ndgrads


----------



## revup67 (Jun 18, 2012)

> Basically - Cokin and Singh-Ray filers produce a magenta colour cast, especially when you stack them. So for instance if you stack a grad ND and an ND.



I agree with Stanley. I had the Cokin P series and sent them back. Not pleased at all. Then had the LightCraft Gradual Filter (think that was $320 USD). It couldn't hold up when at full strength as compared to the Hoya ND400 (9 stop). For my tastes, it was inconsistent and in some cases created unwanted effects. Ultimately went with a B&W 10 stopper and a HOYA ND Pro 1 Digital series filter (ND64). Have been quite pleased with both.

Here's a 13 second exposure at F10, ISO 100 with the B&W




Dana Point Harbor with B&W 10 Stop ND by Revup67, on Flickr


----------



## ereka (Jun 19, 2012)

bvukich said:


> ereka said:
> 
> 
> > bvukich said:
> ...



Thanks for the explanation - I might give that a go!

I could only afford to buy the Lee starter kit with 2 stop hard GND filter, so this technique could come in very handy for higher contrast scenes and scenes without a straight horizon and save me having to fork out for more very expensive GND filters. Anyway, I do like the idea that the black card can be cut to fit the horizon - much more flexible than the straight lines on a GND filter, if more fiddly, but there again landscape photographers spend a lot of time waiting around for the right light so I guess time spent customising a black card is not so much of an issue?


----------



## Otter (Jun 19, 2012)

Jason Beiko said:


> http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=883069&highlight=lee+circular+polarizer
> 
> 
> This is the system I use.



Is that a Lee foundation kit? What kind of ND grad are you using?


----------



## Otter (Jun 19, 2012)

Thanks for the advice on the Singh-Ray ND Filters, I was days away from buying a couple. I will definitely go with Lee then. I hear most people suggest starting with a .3 grad hard line and .2 soft grad. Is this enough? A friend of mine was saying anything less then .8 of a grad you hardly notice a difference. I'm not sure what kind of filters he's using. Does the amount of tint or darkness vary from company to company?


----------



## Razor2012 (Jun 20, 2012)

Speaking of Lee, does anyone know of a good place to purchase the Lee system (Canada or US) that has decent prices? Thanks!


----------



## wickidwombat (Jun 20, 2012)

the advantage of the black card technique is you dont have another layer of glass involved to interfere optically
this technique can also be used with fireworks displays in bulb mode to get multiple bursts in 1 shot

its pretty clever and simple


----------

