# 1DX Mark II - getting the most out of the camera, tips and tricks



## Jack Douglas (Oct 13, 2016)

I hope I'm not alone in this request but having just received my 1DX II and run through the menu I feel quite overwhelmed and in need of some guidance. I've been primarily a 6D shooter for 3 years with just a brief 1D II and then 1D4 exposure; these were purchased to allow me to see if I could handle the weight/size.

Perhaps those who feel confident with the camera or know certain things that come from the 1DX that still apply here, would be willing to offer advice. Also, those feeling somewhat like me may wish to ask questions as well and maybe we can all learn and share our experiences.

Of course as beginners we can muddle our way through but we might end up acquiring poor habits. I could start by asking for good ways of configuring the buttons. I've been using AF-ON for BB focus on the 6D so I've already set that up, but how do you quickly select AF points, etc. etc.

I'd like to see video suggestions as well. Such a shame not to do at least a little video with such a capable camera.

Links to reference materials could be helpful too.

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 14, 2016)

Hmm, not much happening here!

I have found this which is one persons complete setting guide from TDP:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/News/News-Post.aspx?News=18269

Another: https://bird-wildlifephotographyblog.com/2016/05/23/canon-1dx-mark-ii-af-settings-first-review-for-bird-wildlife-photography/

and another: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4002979

Jack


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## Eldar (Oct 14, 2016)

Jack,
I am sure you can find (and you have found some) guidance from others on how they set up the camera. However, I do not believe there is a sensible copy-and-be-happy approach. You need to figure out how to set it up for your need.

Personally I am not even close to using the camera to its fullest potential and I only master a minor part of its functional capabilities. My approach has been to think critically on what I need and what suits me. The most important being:

I use the AF-On button to activate one-shot in servo mode and not for BB focus. 
I select number of AF points with the AF point selector (activate) and the front wheel (select).
I change ISO settings with the set button(activate) and the back wheel (select).
All other buttons are kept with their default functionality.

When it comes to all the internal settings, I do not believe there is a one package fits all option. You must spend time trying to understand what they do. In principle, you do nothing wrong by leaving them in their default position and then do them one by one as your experience grows.

One thing I am missing or have not been able to figure out, is how I can dial in exposure compensation in manual mode, without taking my eye away from the viewer. Currently I have to look at the display and it annoys me. If someone know if/how this can be done, I'd be happy.

As a sidenote, my camera fell on rocks the other day, so the mirror housing is damaged and the sensor is out of position ...


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## Ryananthony (Oct 14, 2016)

Eldar said:


> Jack,
> I am sure you can find (and you have found some) guidance from others on how they set up the camera. However, I do not believe there is a sensible copy-and-be-happy approach. You need to figure out how to set it up for your need.
> 
> Personally I am not even close to using the camera to its fullest potential and I only master a minor part of its functional capabilities. My approach has been to think critically on what I need and what suits me. The most important being:
> ...




One thing that I found helpful when I upgraded to a 5d3 was to run through the custom functions every few weeks or a month of shooting. I started noticing things that would work better for my shooting, things that will take time to notice. I plan on doing the same when I receive my new to me 1dx next week.


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## unfocused (Oct 14, 2016)

I'm also very interested in this topic. I just never feel like I'm using the auto-focus to its full advantage and I'd love to hear tips from others who use it for either sports or birds-in-flight.

As for configuration: I'm a back-button autofocus guy all the way. I switched the little star button in back to toggle between AIFocus and One Shot, but I'm not sure I'll keep that setting (I find myself inadvertently switching to One Shot in the middle of games and missing shots). Like Eldar, I select the number of AF points with the AF point selector (activate) and the front wheel (select).

Probably the biggest thing I did was reconfigure the "Q" settings. The back of my screen now shows: Mode; Shutter Speed; ISO; White Balance; Exposure Compensation; External Speedlite Control; Flash Exposure Compensation; AIServo/One Shot; Drive Mode; Record Function/Card Selection; Raw/JPG; and the number and position of AF points (That one actually takes up six of the little boxes, but I find it very handy to be able to glance at the back of the camera and instantly know the autofocus points, before I even put the viewfinder to my eyes). The exact selection really doesn't matter, but I would encourage anyone to play around with the Q menu settings to get exactly what you need to access the most on the screen. It can significantly reduce the need to go into the menu system.

I'm not a huge 'button configurer' and I agree with the advice to just use it for awhile and make changes as you feel the need or want to experiment. One of the other things I really love about the 1DX II is that you can save your menu settings to a card, so when you send the camera in for a cleaning or whatever, you can simply reload all the settings from a card after Canon resets them to the defaults.

As I said, I'm mostly interested in how others use the autofocus system and what they've found that works and doesn't work.


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## fentiger (Oct 14, 2016)

The big thing about the 1Dx2 is the amount and variation of customisation that can be done!!
say you set up C1 for bif, back focus ect you can set C2,C3, for other scenarios.
i think you can also set Tv,Av, and M to how you like. I've only had mine for 5 weeks and theres soooo much to learn, the best advice i can give you Jack is to go out and shoot and play with it.
its also been mentioned by neuro on another thread that you can save settings to cards, so the possibilities are huge, but as Eldar has said it won't balance by itself on rocks, i feel your pain Eldar :'(


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 14, 2016)

Ryananthony, I agree. The only problem is that at the start one doesn't fully understand what a setting or change does and it can be hard to correlate a choice in setting to an output result. Still do what you suggest is a great review.

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 14, 2016)

Eldar said:


> Jack,
> I am sure you can find (and you have found some) guidance from others on how they set up the camera. However, I do not believe there is a sensible copy-and-be-happy approach. You need to figure out how to set it up for your need.
> 
> Personally I am not even close to using the camera to its fullest potential and I only master a minor part of its functional capabilities. My approach has been to think critically on what I need and what suits me. The most important being:
> ...



Thanks Eldar. It's so bad that I shot a BIF and it should hjave been in focus but wasn't - I couldn't get out of one-shot even though I thought I had the BB configured like my 6D. I've liked having one-shot as default when AF-ON is released, assuming that's actually "one-shot". I would like a quick way to move AF around and also change configurations if possible with one button push. I know, I'm pushing too hard initially and just getting confused.

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 14, 2016)

unfocused, I've liked the Q function on the 6D and agree with you. Tonight I also set up "My Menu" and managed to upgrade the firmware. Formatted the card and loaded the .fir and it wouldn't work. Finally figured out that I had to delete the two folders that the format created so the .fir file sat alone.

I'll check out your suggestions later since it's now nearly 2 AM and I'll try to give some feedback on what I sort out eventually too. There are quite a few making suggestions on web sites and often they seem to conflict.

Also I just learned (duh) that the video menu comes up only when you switch on video and so now I have all those options to look at. I know little bits are falling into place but it sure doesn't feel like that! 

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 14, 2016)

BTW my 400 X2 shots look pathetic even when the focus seemed to lock and my heart started to sink. Fortunately, I have my dragons that were 6D with 400 X2 and MF. These are fine at not much over MFD wouldn't you say?? So tomorrow it's AFMA checking and setting.

I wonder if 1/1000 is marginal for action with 400 X2??, anyone. And of course it had to be a cloudy day with higher ISOs, so lots of grain with cropping.

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 14, 2016)

Here is another link that might be helpful from 5 months ago.

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4002979

Jack


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## Eldar (Oct 14, 2016)

Jack Douglas said:


> Thanks Eldar. It's so bad that I shot a BIF and it should hjave been in focus but wasn't - I couldn't get out of one-shot even though I thought I had the BB configured like my 6D. I've liked having one-shot as default when AF-ON is released, assuming that's actually "one-shot". I would like a quick way to move AF around and also change configurations if possible with one button push. I know, I'm pushing too hard initially and just getting confused.
> 
> Jack


If you change to be in AF Servo, as default, and use the BB as toggle to One Shot, you'll have an easier life with things that move.

For moving AF points, press the top right button, to activate selected AF points and use the joy stick to move it around.


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## kaihp (Oct 14, 2016)

Eldar said:


> As a sidenote, my camera fell on rocks the other day, so the mirror housing is damaged and the sensor is out of position ...



Noooooooooo! So sorry to hear that for you, Eldar. Well, at least it happened after you got home from Tanzania :-\

Thanks for putting up your customizations; besides BBF I haven't done anything to my Mark I, but I should consider the one-shot vs Servo. I'll also be eagerly listening if anyone has a solution to the EC-in-Manual setup.


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## arthurbikemad (Oct 14, 2016)

As said by many the options depend on the person's needs, the main things for me are AI serv and One Shot on the second function button, enable point selection by joy stick, set ISO on center button so can scroll ISO on top wheel, or set center button to set Exp Comp in M mode (most of time for me), set C modes as needed, turn off fire with no card, setup Q menu and screens, I set one menu for Flash, one for Video and so on. So many custom options


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## ethanz (Oct 14, 2016)

Eldar said:


> One thing I am missing or have not been able to figure out, is how I can dial in exposure compensation in manual mode, without taking my eye away from the viewer. Currently I have to look at the display and it annoys me. If someone know if/how this can be done, I'd be happy.
> 
> As a sidenote, my camera fell on rocks the other day, so the mirror housing is damaged and the sensor is out of position ...



I'm wondering that too Eldar!

I guess the camera isn't as indestructible as I thought.

Even though I read through the manual, I didn't figure out until four months later how to change the AF point type...


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## privatebydesign (Oct 14, 2016)

I know the selected Mode is Manual but when are they going to change that to ISO, or something that actually reflects what is going on. M Mode with Auto ISO is not Manual because it is still relying on the camera setting the exposure, hence the need for exposure compensation. 

It would be much less confusing making a new Mode to join Av and Tv (and P, M etc) and just call it ISO or something. 

I teach and mentor photography and regularly have to point out to people who think they are in manual exposure because they have M Mode selected with Auto ISO on that they are actually in an auto mode!


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## Sporgon (Oct 14, 2016)

privatebydesign said:


> I know the selected Mode is Manual but when are they going to change that to ISO, or something that actually reflects what is going on. M Mode with Auto ISO is not Manual because it is still relying on the camera setting the exposure, hence the need for exposure compensation.
> 
> It would be much less confusing making a new Mode to join Av and Tv (and P, M etc) and just call it ISO or something.
> 
> I teach and mentor photography and regularly have to point out to people who think they are in manual exposure because they have M Mode selected with Auto ISO on that they are actually in an auto mode!



+1. It's not manual at all !


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## arthurbikemad (Oct 14, 2016)

Think all here know its not full M if you have auto ISO selected (I like that Canon give the user the option to set ISO in any mode, i.e Auto/Set, it's easy to tell if your in auto ISO ), however there are times that auto ISO and Exp comp in M mode are handy. I mention it as unless the button is configured it can not be selected/changed.


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## privatebydesign (Oct 14, 2016)

arthurbikemad said:


> Think all here know its not full M if you have auto ISO selected, however there are times that auto ISO and Exp comp in M mode are handy. I mention it as unless the button is configured it can not be selected/changed.


Not if you read back in the forums they don't.

I am not saying it isn't a great feature, just that selecting it via M Mode is not intuitive. I use Auto ISO in my EOS-M in Av and it is fantastic, but in that situation it is doing a very narrow and specific task, it is taking focal length information and keeping shutter speed above reasonable hand holdable levels, combine that with a limited ISO range so you never get noise levels you won't accept and the feature is very strong.

But using Auto ISO in M Mode is not M Mode, it is an Auto Mode and I think would be more intuitive if it was labeled differently.


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## arthurbikemad (Oct 14, 2016)

privatebydesign said:


> arthurbikemad said:
> 
> 
> > Think all here know its not full M if you have auto ISO selected, however there are times that auto ISO and Exp comp in M mode are handy. I mention it as unless the button is configured it can not be selected/changed.
> ...



I agree with what your saying, guess I see how some could be confused.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 14, 2016)

Eldar said:


> Jack Douglas said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks Eldar. It's so bad that I shot a BIF and it should hjave been in focus but wasn't - I couldn't get out of one-shot even though I thought I had the BB configured like my 6D. I've liked having one-shot as default when AF-ON is released, assuming that's actually "one-shot". I would like a quick way to move AF around and also change configurations if possible with one button push. I know, I'm pushing too hard initially and just getting confused.
> ...



Thanks Eldar. That's exactly what I did with the 6D but I'm confused about "toggle". I perceive that with the 6D as just stated that what was happening was this. I press the AF-ON and I get AF servo; great. I release and focus ceases but the camera understands that I may have fixed the focus where I wanted it and allows me to shoot thereafter. I'm happy but is this different from toggling between servo and one-shot. With the 1DX II I assigned the option of toggle to AF_ON and it didn't seem to be behaving like my 6D was.

Again with the 6D I moved focus points as you describe except it has a different kind of "joystick", but that is two step so I'm wondering if a single operation is possible - will try today since I think I have the joystick assigned to moving the AF point directly. Now will that conflict with some other useful assignment I don't know.

In all of this my problem is that I can't always understand what is supposed to happen, correctly and so get thrown by the result I get and sometimes I am challenged to remedy what I've inadvertently set up.

And probably repeating myself here, I want to be able to change to a mode that has the best AF setup for BIF, quickly, with the most efficient button usage and perhaps have the choice of just one or two modes of focus operation while shooting BIF (could clear sky shooting benefit from settings different than foliage background, for instance. 

BTW this is a reply to Eldar without having read further in the thread, which I'm doing now (guess I should have read all first) but I had my my thoughts focused.

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 14, 2016)

privatebydesign said:


> arthurbikemad said:
> 
> 
> > Think all here know its not full M if you have auto ISO selected, however there are times that auto ISO and Exp comp in M mode are handy. I mention it as unless the button is configured it can not be selected/changed.
> ...



Scott, it's your English childhood schooling that makes you focus on exactness or correctness, while others really don't get into that. I'm just like you except that often I'm so clueless about something I can't tell if it's correct or not, especially in photography. 

I have to laugh. I'd be in a group reviewing an exam that someone had created and pointing out that the wording was misleading and that students would answer all over the map. The response I typically got was that I was too picky and a refusal to reword. Then, after, having to mark this "common" exam, there it was - students answering correctly but being mislead by the instructor's ambiguity and me having to mark all kinds of incorrect answers as correct and wasting all kinds of time.  ;D

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 14, 2016)

Guess I can't do my AFMA; it's snowing and wet and cold and dull, unless it's feasible to target shoot inside with limited space - don't think that would be productive. :'(

Jack


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## Eldar (Oct 14, 2016)

Jack Douglas said:


> privatebydesign said:
> 
> 
> > arthurbikemad said:
> ...


We have three things to play with aperture, shutter speed and ISO. You can play with them in P, Tv, Av and M mode. I am happy to rename M to Maximum mode, if that helps. The thing is, that when you shoot birds and wildlife and you cannot direct what you shoot, M-mode, usually referred to as Manual mode, with auto ISO is very handy. However, I need to do exposure compensation, since the ISO is auto, but that is cumbersome and time consuming. So very often I go to Manual mode and do the exposure compensation manually by changing ISO manually. I hope that was clarifying.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 14, 2016)

Eldar, I think it was well understood already and I hope to hear a solution to your request on exposure compensation. 

Engineers may be technically good but totally miss the boat on ergonomics and that seems to be a problem with all the manufacturers. Then there is the issue of once you commit to something and it turns out to not have been the best choice it may not be practical to change since people get used to it and don't want change.

I see this in the 1D, 5D lines after having used the 6D in, for example, the ease with which the 6D handles one handed image review and deletion with the alternate "joystick" arrangement. Put that on the other series and the screaming begins.

It seems Canon needs to give more flexibility to button option assignment.

Jack


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## Eldar (Oct 14, 2016)

Jack Douglas said:


> Eldar, I think it was well understood already and I hope to hear a solution to your request on exposure compensation.
> 
> Engineers may be technically good but totally miss the boat on ergonomics and that seems to be a problem with all the manufacturers. Then there is the issue of once you commit to something and it turns out to not have been the best choice it may not be practical to change since people get used to it and don't want change.
> 
> ...


All I need is a firmware upgrade, where I can push the Q-button, with the menu set to EC, adjust EC up and down and see what I am doing in the viewfinder. That is, as far as I know, not possible in any way today. To me that is a serious limitation to the auto ISO functionality. I never use auto ISO in any other mode.


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## arthurbikemad (Oct 14, 2016)

If you mean EC in M mode on 1DX2 you can set the centre button to do just that, but you have to hold the button and turn the scroll wheel at the same time to set EC, EC is shown on the lower display and exposure on the right, there is another option where the same button can be assigned for ISO, then holding the same as before scrolls the ISO up and down, even scrolls back to Auto unlike on some other bodies where oddly you can not scroll back to Auto, it has to be set with the ISO button.

Perhaps I have miss understood. haha.. :-X


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 14, 2016)

That does sound like a very easy thing for Canon to do. Is there a way to bring such suggestions to Canon's attention - I've heard about this from other sources so it's a common need.

Arthur, by center do you mean "set"?

Jack


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## arthurbikemad (Oct 14, 2016)

Yes sorry, set.


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## Eldar (Oct 14, 2016)

Thanks, I´ll be happy to try that when I get the camera back from repair. If that works I am a happy man 

My camera actually fell off the lens, while I was carrying it and hit the rock I was walking on, so now I suddenly found something to waste $2k on, unless Canon agrees that it was caused by a faulty locking mechanism in the lens mount and agree that it is a warranty repair. Jury is still out, so fingers crossed.


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## arthurbikemad (Oct 14, 2016)

Oh gutted! I have a small para cord that teathers the camera to the lens, tripod, wrist, anything else I can safely setup a secondary fail safe, well on my 5D3 I do as not bothered to make one up for the 1D yet, maybe I will tomorrow now you say that! Before I found I often pressed the lense release button while climbing around in brush etc and unclipped the body from the lens risking just what happened to you.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 14, 2016)

Just shot a Pileated WP and am taking a look at the images. They seem noisier than my 6D images at ISO 1250, which shouldn't be, right? The pose tells me that there is no front focus but there may be back focus so I must AFMA ASAP.

Here is a file number - can I change this to just a sequential, I'm guessing it's shot 50. What's a good choice. I like to keep the sequence # on every shot whenever I rename them as file stored jpgs.

AB2I0050

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 14, 2016)

BTW I now have the set button configured for photoplayback which gives me right hand ability to review a shot when holding the big white so there is a conflict for me with EC usage.

Why is M with auto ISO so desirable other than be an auto exposure mode? I guess this question would digress into the merits of manual vs. auto??

Eldar, that sure is a bummer. So it seems like that click that ensures the pair stay together somehow didn't happen??

Jack


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## privatebydesign (Oct 14, 2016)

Jack Douglas said:


> Why is M with auto ISO so desirable other than be an auto exposure mode? I guess this question would digress into the merits of manual vs. auto??



There are many shooting situations where M with Auto ISO work well with the need for EC, indeed it is strange it has taken so long to catch on.

Think of this scenario, you are using 400 f4 to shoot a bird, you know you need f8 to get the entire bird sharp because of dof, you know you need a 1/640 sec to get exactly the wing blur you want and you know you need plus 2/3 stop EC because the bird is lighter than mid tone, ergo the only other variable to allow for illumination levels is ISO.

My comment is not on the need for EC in M mode with Auto ISO and I'd hate to think I upset Eldar, it is one of nomenclature. Traditionally M has meant you dictate exposure, if you introduce an auto element to those exposures then it isn't manual mode. 

The main reason I have taken issue with this is because, as I said earlier, I teach and people honestly believing they are in manual and dictating things when all they are doing is riding auto iso and getting excessively noisy images when they don't need to. Also their manual exposures always end up being mid toned when that is nothing close to what they actually set their cameras to get!


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 15, 2016)

Scott, I understand this:

Think of this scenario, you are using 400 f4 to shoot a bird, you know you need f8 to get the entire bird sharp because of dof, you know you need a 1/640 sec to get exactly the wing blur you want and you know you need plus 2/3 stop EC because the bird is lighter than mid tone, ergo the only other variable to allow for illumination levels is ISO.

The question is why not _manually_ set the ISO for the needed exposure level that goes with the blur and DOF requirements and that's it or doesn't the ISO affect exposure in the way that I'm thinking?

Jack


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## privatebydesign (Oct 15, 2016)

Jack Douglas said:


> Scott, I understand this:
> 
> Think of this scenario, you are using 400 f4 to shoot a bird, you know you need f8 to get the entire bird sharp because of dof, you know you need a 1/640 sec to get exactly the wing blur you want and you know you need plus 2/3 stop EC because the bird is lighter than mid tone, ergo the only other variable to allow for illumination levels is ISO.
> 
> ...



That is the only variable bit that you don't have an artistic need to control, so if your bird flight path goes across different backgrounds or it comes from under canopy cover into an open better illuminated area the auto part makes a lot of sense. The camera can get the exposure 'right' much faster than we can. M mode traditionally only worked well in relatively constant subject illumination.

Of course we lived without auto iso for over 100 years, but new features push new images and there is no doubt that making stand out images is more difficult than ever. I have Nat Geo's going back over fifty years, the standard of photography has changed dramatically and there is no doubt that many of the stand out images are better technically than ever before. Same with the Olympics, or even look at modern wedding images from some of the real masters.


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## arbitrage (Oct 15, 2016)

A couple things I will contribute for now...I will try to add more later as I think of more tips...

1) You can set both the AF-On button and the * button to be focus buttons. However, most don't realize there are two totally different ways that these can be customized. Each way has different options for selection.

The first way is to set the button to Metering+AF start and then hit the INFO button and select the focusing mode, AF points etc....I think there are 4 options you can adjust doing it this way. 

The second way is to not assign Metering + AF start but instead use the "Register/recall shooting func" Then hit INFO and you get a whole bunch of options you can assign to that button. If you want it to AF make sure to tick that off at the bottom of the list. This way allows changes to almost everything including aperture, ISO, SS settings and AF settings etc.

2) If you so desire you can set the main camera focus setting to One Shot but keep the two back buttons on AI Servo. In this case you leave the shutter button active. If you are holding the back button the camera will stay in AI Servo and hitting the shutter doesn't trigger the One Shot. If you release the back button the shutter works as One Shot. If you do it this way you loose the ability to focus recompose with the back button as some people like to do but you can still focus recompose with half press of the shutter button.

3) The #1 best thing I've ever found in the 1 series and it doesn't work in any of the other cameras is the ability to set the M-Fn button (up by the shutter button) to cycle through the C modes (and AV, TV, M). This is the setting marked by a "C" when setting up the M-Fn in Custom Controls menu. Personally I use M mode 100% of the time (and no Auto-ISO). The M-Fn button will just cycle through M mode and the C1 (and C2 or C3 if you want). I use this to have two different SS/Aperuture/ISO settings ready to go with a simple press of the M-Fn. I usually use this to have a "perched" setting (lower ISO, lower SS) and a "flight" setting (higher ISO faster SS). I find this amazingly effective to change between modes when flight opportunities arise. I've also used this to have a sunny and shade modes when I have subjects in both lights or the sun is going in and out behind clouds.

If you decide to use the C modes I recommend setting them to Auto Update Set (Enable) so you can change them and the settings stick as needed.

You can do a similar thing with the "Register/recall shooting function" but then you have to dig into the menu every time the light changes and you want different SS/ISO/Av.

4) Using the Set button to select ISO is my preferred way to do it. However, if you like to use EC in M with Auto-ISO that uses the Set button to do it without using the menus so ISO has to be done another way.

5)AF joystick should be set to move focus points. Remember you can push in the joystick to switch back to the centre point at any time (or you can change this behaviour to select the saved focus point instead (hit INFO while changing the joystick setting in Custom Controls) 
To change AF modes, pushing the upper right most back button and then using the top wheel works the best for me.

6)In C.Fn2:Exposure menu I select Same expo. for new aperture as "ISO". This means when I slap on a TC the camera automatically changes my ISO to match my previously set exposure. Not critical but was introduced for the 200-400 and with that lens it is critical when you are slapping the TC in and out with the switch in under a second. However, you have to leave the camera on(I do always anyways) when swapping TCs to have this work.

I'll think of some more things and post more later...


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 15, 2016)

Thanks arbitrage, I'll delve into this later with the camera in my lap. Guess it doesn't make sense to use the set button to review images, although being a 6D person that struck my fancy.

Jack


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## Eldar (Oct 15, 2016)

Jack Douglas said:


> Why is M with auto ISO so desirable other than be an auto exposure mode? I guess this question would digress into the merits of manual vs. auto??
> 
> Eldar, that sure is a bummer. So it seems like that click that ensures the pair stay together somehow didn't happen??
> 
> Jack


The M mode with auto ISO is very desirable, when you want to control both shutter speed and aperture, in shifting light conditions and are willing to fluctuate on ISO. If things are more stable, I often shoot in full manual, where I control EC with ISO adjustments. However, adjusting ISO and shifting AF points around takes time and attention, so I prefer to use auto ISO. I use Av mode occasionally, when I know I have enough light to get proper shutter speeds at a given ISO setting, but I never use Tv mode.

The locking mechanism on my 1DX-II does give the click, but it does not lock properly. If you don´t get the click, you cannot control the lens aperture, so that is easy to detect. Canon´s (CPS that is) initial reaction was that the drop damage is not covered by warranty, but I claimed that it was a faulty locking mechanism that caused the damage. I have been told that they will come back with an answer next week. I have confirmed with my insurance company though that if Canon refuse to take it as warranty, they will cover it under the insurance.


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## Besisika (Oct 15, 2016)

Eldar said:


> The M mode with auto ISO is very desirable, when you want to control both shutter speed and aperture, in shifting light conditions and are willing to fluctuate on ISO. If things are more stable, I often shoot in full manual, where I control EC with ISO adjustments. However, adjusting ISO and shifting AF points around takes time and attention, so I prefer to use auto ISO. I use Av mode occasionally, when I know I have enough light to get proper shutter speeds at a given ISO setting, but I never use Tv mode.


+1


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## arthurbikemad (Oct 15, 2016)

Another option you pay for and for those who use spot meter is to set "C.Fn1- Spot Meter. Linked to AF Point", you can also meter up to 8 (I think) areas to average the scene using AE lock/hold and the Fn button.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 15, 2016)

Eldar said:


> Jack Douglas said:
> 
> 
> > Why is M with auto ISO so desirable other than be an auto exposure mode? I guess this question would digress into the merits of manual vs. auto??
> ...



Thanks for that. So this mode is essentially combining Av and Tv. Is it correct to say that EC just shifts or biases the ISO value that gets implemented, automatically. In other words the actual ISO setting that you see once EC is used is what you would have selected manually for correct exposure?

On your lens mount issue. I went to my camera and fiddled with the lens lock trying to not quite click it etc. and twist the lens off and it seems once it clicks it represents a significant retention mechanism. In your case if I understand correctly it was or could have been that actual physical lock that malfunctioned.

I can image I could quickly become a pain in someones neck with my questions. 

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 15, 2016)

arthurbikemad said:


> Another option you pay for and for those who use spot meter is to set "C.Fn1- Spot Meter. Linked to AF Point", you can also meter up to 8 (I think) areas to average the scene using AE lock/hold and the Fn button.



Now this one did come up in another thread where it was being requested as a feature for the 5D4 and Scott (PBD) debated the value of it. I couldn't completely see why it would have any/many negatives although it may in fact not be that useful - another case where my expertise is not up to snuff.

I had actually selected that thinking that I'd rather have the metering off my subject that is under the AF point than some rather unrelated central region. Now I'm wondering how big the metering region would be. Your opinion?? 

Since I would be aware that I was metering off that region, I should be able to use it essentially the same as I would use the center region to confirm the brightness associated with my chosen subject (typically a bird only partially filling the frame). On the other hand if the central metering is doing something more sophisticated involving the whole viewfinder and averaging, then that's a different story.

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 15, 2016)

From this site: https://bird-wildlifephotographyblog.com/2016/05/23/canon-1dx-mark-ii-af-settings-first-review-for-bird-wildlife-photography/ this comment. 

"The Lens Aberration Correction settings is new! More specifically, having the Diffraction Correction on allows for a slight sharpening of the details and a mitigation of the low pass filter, which very slightly blurs the image by design in order to avoid pattern issues in the image. The elimination of the low pass filter is what gives the extra sharpness edge to the Canon EOS 5DS R. This a very well welcomed feature!!"

Is this the same as just turning it on in DPP?

Jack


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## arthurbikemad (Oct 15, 2016)

Jack Douglas said:


> I had actually selected that thinking that I'd rather have the metering off my subject that is under the AF point than some rather unrelated central region. *Now I'm wondering how big the metering region would be*. Your opinion??



The 1DX2's spot meter is rated at approx 1.5% same as 5D3, 1.3% on the 5D4 and 3.5% on the 6D, they only talk of the center point but I'd take a guess and say they are all the same amount when linked, maybe someone knows for sure, it's a great feature imo and if you don't use it then fair do, but I'd rather have the option, I love the fact you can meter separate parts of a scene.


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## privatebydesign (Oct 15, 2016)

Jack Douglas said:


> arthurbikemad said:
> 
> 
> > Another option you pay for and for those who use spot meter is to set "C.Fn1- Spot Meter. Linked to AF Point", you can also meter up to 8 (I think) areas to average the scene using AE lock/hold and the Fn button.
> ...



Again, my comments have been more nuanced than that. I am pro AF linked spot metering as an option, my comments have been towards people who want the feature yet clearly have no idea how limited its use for auto exposure images with no EC.

Spot metering can be a very powerful tool, but to think you are going to get good auto exposures with no exposure compensation is just plain wrong, as I have illustrated in the past. Linking spot metering to AF point has even more restricted practical use than center spot metering, though it does have a value, because the most powerful use of spot metering is to take several readings across the scene to enable us to place tonal values where we want within the exposure. If we take this care over our exposure and have a mind to processing and the actual final image output we have become mini Ansel Adams and are working the Zone system. 

But to think AF linked spot metering with no EC is a catchall for difficult exposures is a recipe for disappointment. This is what I have rallied against previously.


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## arthurbikemad (Oct 15, 2016)

You talk a lot of sense Private


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## East Wind Photography (Oct 15, 2016)

Jack Douglas said:


> Thanks arbitrage, I'll delve into this later with the camera in my lap. Guess it doesn't make sense to use the set button to review images, although being a 6D person that struck my fancy.
> 
> Jack



I always use back button AF. Af-on is set as normal, * is configured to spot AF so i can switch say between full af point tracking and spot AF by just selecting the appropriate button. In addition the shutter button is configured to just meter on half press, not AF.

In essence the camera "default" is full time manual focus and have to press one of two back buttons to start an AF process.

Its confusing for a while until you get used to it but is quite a life saver when shooting sports and players are constantly cutting in front of your subject. Just let up on the AF button when view is obstructed and resume when theyare clear. 

More and more im using M mode with auto iso but it is a pain to do EC on the fly when top wheel is set for aperture and back wheel is set for shutter speed. I use Set for manual Iso adjustment when needed.

Need more wheels and things to adjust everything.


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## privatebydesign (Oct 15, 2016)

East Wind Photography said:


> Jack Douglas said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks arbitrage, I'll delve into this later with the camera in my lap. Guess it doesn't make sense to use the set button to review images, although being a 6D person that struck my fancy.
> ...



I never got on with BBF, however I do get on with AF-on set to AF off. I think that arrangement gives you the power of AF/exposure separation but leaves your thumb free more of the time. Rather than always having to use your thumb when you want AF (most of the time) you only use it when you don't want AF, like focus and recompose or if a distracting element is coming across the subject etc.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 15, 2016)

Not sure who all is reading this thread but I for one am getting an education and am really appreciating it. Clearly, I have not fully understood all the nuances of AF and AE.

Still mildly confused on this. If I have BBF, AF-ON when pressed to do AI servo what do I get when it's released - is this One-shot or equivalent to One-shot?

Jack


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## arbitrage (Oct 15, 2016)

Jack Douglas said:


> Not sure who all is reading this thread but I for one am getting an education and am really appreciating it. Clearly, I have not fully understood all the nuances of AF and AE.
> 
> Still mildly confused on this. If I have BBF, AF-ON when pressed to do AI servo what do I get when it's released - is this One-shot or equivalent to One-shot?
> 
> Jack



The focusing would have been achieved using AI Servo. If you release you can then recompose and trigger the shutter without re-activating AF. Assuming you have AF taken off of the shutter button.

One-shot mode does focus differently and there are different settings for it in the AF menu. It also is the mode that allows you to focus in the lowest light (I think -3EV on 1DX2). AI Servo is not rated for that low of light.

If you leave the shutter button active for AF and change the main camera AF setting to One-Shot but still set the back button to servo then when you aren't pushing the back button you can push the shutter button to use One-Shot. This eliminates the ability to focus recompose with the back button. You can also set one of the back buttons to One-shot and when pushed it will focus using the One-Shot algorithms. If you have the shutter button deactivated then you can focus recompose that way but having used the better light sensitive One-shot mode.

Personally I don't use One-shot as I"m never in that low of light.

PS. If possible you might want to move this thread to the EOS Bodies section (not the rumour one). It is posted in a Gallery forum where many people won't see the thread.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 16, 2016)

arbitrage, that's very helpful, thanks. So some/quite a few folk might be thinking they have one-shot when technically they don't.

I didn't realize it was in the wrong section and will check how things are arranged, but I don't know how to move it.

Jack


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## scottkinfw (Oct 16, 2016)

Eldar said:


> Jack,
> I am sure you can find (and you have found some) guidance from others on how they set up the camera. However, I do not believe there is a sensible copy-and-be-happy approach. You need to figure out how to set it up for your need.
> 
> Personally I am not even close to using the camera to its fullest potential and I only master a minor part of its functional capabilities. My approach has been to think critically on what I need and what suits me. The most important being:
> ...



I agree with you Eldar. I recommend going through the manual and change what seems reasonable to suit you. Go out and shoot. Get familiar with the camera and change setting from there. Most of setting are at least OK at the defaults. I went on a big trip and didn't have time to learn let alone master video. I just flipped the switch, crossed my fingers, and 4K video came out great.

Eldar, I feel you. My 1DXII fell yesterday, and it isn't working properly. I looked inside and there is some damage just before the mirror. I think my fav lens 24-71 208 IS II is toast because it no longer is recognized by camera. Good thing Canon has the "insurance policy" just for this.
What a dagger in the heart.
So you are not alone.
sek


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 16, 2016)

Firstly, checking how the threads are located, I'm as confused as ever regarding where this one would best fit.

Secondly, Larsskv posted a link to a video that has helped quite a few. It's BBF and I will watch it shortly.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=30922.0

Jack


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## East Wind Photography (Oct 16, 2016)

Jack Douglas said:


> arbitrage, that's very helpful, thanks. So some/quite a few folk might be thinking they have one-shot when technically they don't.
> 
> I didn't realize it was in the wrong section and will check how things are arranged, but I don't know how to move it.
> 
> Jack



Rather than fumble with one shot and ai servo, I program one of the front buttons to toggle those modes when pressed. I usually leave ai servo set as default and press the front button to switch to one shot for still subjects.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 16, 2016)

I agree that often a toggle can be more handy than having to hold a button.

After watching that slightly corny video on BBF I'm now intrigued about all the options and feel the need to carefully weigh the pros and cons. Corny or not it was well worth my time to watch although the previous comments posted here had almost covered what is in the video.

I'm trying to remember the kind of snide remark one of the reviewers made about button functionality and programmability. Is Canon really behind the others? Not that I care since I'll be Canon till I die and hopefully that's a long time. 

Now I need to dig into the Q menu and its programmability.

I spent good money on a pro camera, so I will persevere in learning how to use it for more than P&S if it kills me! It's great that so many have offered good advice.

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 16, 2016)

The BBF topic has really taken off. Here is another somewhat repetitious video and comments that are also interesting.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1467282&page=2

Jack


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## arbitrage (Oct 16, 2016)

Owning the D500, I know that Canon is miles ahead on button customizability than Nikon is. Maybe Sony allows you to have more freedom with assigning functions to buttons but Nikon is very poor. It is impossible to quickly change AF modes when supporting a big lens on the Nikon. Only on the most recent cameras D500/D5 can you now have more than one back button but it can't be modified as much as the Canon ones and can only change the AF point mode.

I think the 1DX2 was the first Canon that allows a button to be assigned to toggle OneShot/Servo AND allows you to just push the button and not have to hold it in. All the previous ones you had to hold the button and releasing it switched back. I believe (but could be wrong) that the 1DX2 allows the button to act as a toggle. Push it a second time to get back to the default setting.

With Canon there are lots of different ways to get things done and I appreciate that.

I think that questions about a camera (that isn't a rumour) should go into the EOS-Bodies for Stills section of the forum. But I don't think you will be able to move this. A moderator may be able to move it if you PM them. Not a big deal but more people would see it that way. I only saw it because it was on the CR main page under "hot" forum topics!!


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## East Wind Photography (Oct 16, 2016)

arbitrage said:


> Owning the D500, I know that Canon is miles ahead on button customizability than Nikon is. Maybe Sony allows you to have more freedom with assigning functions to buttons but Nikon is very poor. It is impossible to quickly change AF modes when supporting a big lens on the Nikon. Only on the most recent cameras D500/D5 can you now have more than one back button but it can't be modified as much as the Canon ones and can only change the AF point mode.
> 
> I think the 1DX2 was the first Canon that allows a button to be assigned to toggle OneShot/Servo AND allows you to just push the button and not have to hold it in. All the previous ones you had to hold the button and releasing it switched back. I believe (but could be wrong) that the 1DX2 allows the button to act as a toggle. Push it a second time to get back to the default setting.
> 
> ...



One shot toggle is still only momentary. Havent figured out a way to set for push on push off. Still momentary is ok since the ring finger doesnt do a whole lot. However 1dxii has two buttons there so need to press the correct button. Was easier on the 7d2 and 5d3 where there is only one button.


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## arthurbikemad (Oct 16, 2016)

To set 1DX2 so AI servo or One shot locks or not use the INFO button when in custom controls.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 16, 2016)

arthurbikemad said:


> To set 1DX2 so AI servo or One shot locks or not use the INFO button when in custom controls.



I'm assuming this is new relative to the 1DX because a lot of people seem to be unaware of it!

Now a question regarding how poor our USM lenses are when trying to vary the speed at which focus locks using the 1DX II for _video_. Is it just one speed essentially as fast as photo shooting AF? 

Jack


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## LordofTackle (Oct 16, 2016)

I don't think so. If you choose (in video mode) another point to focus on via the touch function, you will get a nice and smooth (have heard it being called "cinematic") focus change. This is, subjectively, a lot slower than the AF i.e. for BIF.

Please correct me if I'm wrong here, not much experience with the video function, but that's my experience.


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 17, 2016)

LordofTackle said:


> I don't think so. If you choose (in video mode) another point to focus on via the touch function, you will get a nice and smooth (have heard it being called "cinematic") focus change. This is, subjectively, a lot slower than the AF i.e. for BIF.
> 
> Please correct me if I'm wrong here, not much experience with the video function, but that's my experience.



Sure hope so. 

It's so dull here for days now that I can't get my AFMA done and I don't feel like playing at ISO 12800. Like a kid at Christmas with new skates and it's -40.

Jack


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## LordofTackle (Oct 17, 2016)

I can feel with you. Right now, Germany has a "golden autumn", but here at the Lake Constanze we had constant fog for days...and still have.

Sebastian


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 17, 2016)

LordofTackle said:


> I can feel with you. Right now, Germany has a "golden autumn", but here at the Lake Constanze we had constant fog for days...and still have.
> 
> Sebastian



The sympathy is appreciated! 

Poor light and poor settings for AFMA but I tried anyway. My 400 X2 is now compensated at -8. I can't get consistent AF but it's definitely that or -7, -9. So, I imagine my sharpness complaints on the few birds I shot will disappear.

Question - I've been using strength 3 in unsharp mask, DPP. Is that as high as one would normally want to go, and also what about fineness and threshold?

Jack


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## kaihp (Oct 17, 2016)

Jack Douglas said:


> Poor light and poor settings for AFMA but I tried anyway. My 400 X2 is now compensated at -8. I can't get consistent AF but it's definitely that or -7, -9. So, I imagine my sharpness complaints on the few birds I shot will disappear.
> 
> Question - I've been using strength 3 in unsharp mask, DPP. Is that as high as one would normally want to go, and also what about fineness and threshold?



You probably won't be able to tell the difference of a +/-1 AFMA.

I often go for a 4/4/4 USM in DPP. I find that tuning fineness and threshold sometimes have a bigger impact than the strength. Your mileage may vary.


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## Raptors (Oct 17, 2016)

Hi Jack,

First, thank you for starting this thread. I have owned a 1DX for about 2 years, and I am now the proud owner of the 1DX MK2. It is interesting to see how others are setting up their camera. 

In regards to using DPP, I would have a look at Ari Hazeghi site. He has written several articles and guides which I have found very useful.
http://arihazeghiphotography.com/blog/eos-1d-x-mark-ii-field-review/
http://www.arihazeghiphotography.com/Guides/

Sue


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 17, 2016)

Thanks kaihp and Sue. Birds as Art is amazing.

The problem with these customizations is not the camera, it's the brain behind the camera that can't remember: the setting chosen, why it was chosen, how to use it quickly, and how to modify it so that it corrects an undesirable response.

I have managed to set up AF with AF-ON using the sub-menu for AI servo, and * as one-shot. I think the lower of the two front buttons would be good for another AF choice since my finger practically sits right on it.

Am wondering what the popular choice is for AF illumination? Also any tips on the Q menu usage and setup that is best.

Jack


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## Raptors (Oct 17, 2016)

Hi Jack,

EOS 1DX quick AF trick...I believe this will also work on the 1DX MK2.

http://arihazeghiphotography.com/blog/eos-1dx-quick-af-trick/

Sue


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 17, 2016)

Raptors said:


> Hi Jack,
> 
> EOS 1DX quick AF trick...I believe this will also work on the 1DX MK2.
> 
> ...



Thanks Sue, that's exactly what I'll do but I'm supposed to be working not playing right now. 

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Oct 19, 2016)

Jack Douglas said:


> LordofTackle said:
> 
> 
> > I don't think so. If you choose (in video mode) another point to focus on via the touch function, you will get a nice and smooth (have heard it being called "cinematic") focus change. This is, subjectively, a lot slower than the AF i.e. for BIF.
> ...



Can't recall who suggested only stm lenses would focus smoothly and slowly but here is the Canon word:

"USM lenses marketed in 2009 or later and STM support slow focus transition during movie shooting."

So, I personally don't have anything to worry about. I hope! 

I'm too busy to have tried much with the camera. The little I've tried I seem to always have something set incorrectly. For example, I set the drive for max 3 shots so I wouldn't be excessive when fooling with the camera initially and then a bird flies by and I wonder why I couldn't get more than 1 shot (actually 3 but it happened so fast for a few seconds I imagined it was just 1). I'm thinking what's the matter with the shutter button. 

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Dec 3, 2016)

Not sure if anyone is still following this thread but here goes. Today I discovered that I can have the camera set for both shutter button and two back buttons (AF ON, *) auto focus. With large zone, for example, selected, I get that with the shutter and spot with expansion, either servo or one-shot, using the back buttons, which over-ride the shutter focus mode. I'm thinking BIF could benefit from this versatility??

Jack


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## Mikehit (Dec 3, 2016)

Good, eh?

Apparently once you have set them you can save that group of settings to a custom function then redo them all and save that group to another custom function. 

I can see this useful if for example you are shooting primarily birds in flight against the sky (zone focus) and a single button push will switch to point focus if the bird flies across a more confusing background. 
Set them reverse if (for example) you are concentrating on perched birds and want quick, temporary switch to zone focus.

I will be trying this with my 7D2 in the near future.


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## Jack Douglas (Dec 3, 2016)

Mikehit said:


> Good, eh?
> 
> Apparently once you have set them you can save that group of settings to a custom function then redo them all and save that group to another custom function.
> 
> ...



That's what I have in mind Mike but all these options are taxing me to keep it all straight. There still are the other two front buttons to alter the selected/starting focus point.

So, what I need now is someone who has shot a lot of different bird scenarios to suggest the settings that I might go with. As soon as I start doing this I get confused.

It's cool seeing various red focus points lighting up here and there on a subject - guess I've said before how I love the illuminated points! 

Has anyone been able to save a different AFMA setting to C1...C3, say you want some back focus on a whole body BIF flying by you, or is that destined to failure?

Jack


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## Jack Douglas (Dec 3, 2016)

From GUYF: http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/6/0300025186/01/EOS_1D_X_MkII_AF_Setting_Guidebook.pdf
via: http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=31415.0;topicseen

Just what I needed, an AF guidebook so I'd not have to use the 7D II version.

Jack


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