# Using multiple flash cords for speedlights



## Gary W. (Nov 23, 2011)

Hey all,

I recently came across an off shoe cord that also allows a second flash to be mounted on the hot shoe position, as well. My question is this; I know it is possible, but are there any concerns that I should be aware of if using a second cord to mount a second speedlight off camera? I currently use a 7D with an OC-E3 and a 430EX. I was thinking of using another cord and get another flash to assist in flashed HS football photography so I can drop ISO and/or increase refresh rates of the flash.

Gary W.


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## bvukich (Nov 23, 2011)

Gary W. said:


> Hey all,
> 
> I recently came across an off shoe cord that also allows a second flash to be mounted on the hot shoe position, as well. My question is this; I know it is possible, but are there any concerns that I should be aware of if using a second cord to mount a second speedlight off camera? I currently use a 7D with an OC-E3 and a 430EX. I was thinking of using another cord and get another flash to assist in flashed HS football photography so I can drop ISO and/or increase refresh rates of the flash.
> 
> Gary W.



It works, but only to trigger (i.e. manual only).


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## briansquibb (Nov 23, 2011)

Flash bracket with 2 speedlights mounted cordlessly works well on a 7D. Dont forget to get a high bracket as the popup is needed to run the wireless.


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## Gary W. (Nov 23, 2011)

Hey all,

Wireless triggering on the 7D doesn't work on a consistent basis due to the flash being mounted @ 18-20" below the camera on a monopod with my hand in the way on the zoom ring. This is why I am looking at the possibility of multiple cords. Is there any voltage/power issues to deal with for running multiple flashes on cords?

Gary W.


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## briansquibb (Nov 23, 2011)

Perhaps you would tell us more - what the issues are, the kit you have and your budget. 

For example flashing with a 300mm on a 1.6 requires a different solution to shooting with an 15-85


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## Gary W. (Nov 23, 2011)

Hey all,

I am using a 70-200 Æ’2.8L USM that is on loan or a 70-300 Æ’4-5.6 IS USM, mostly the former for now. The budget would be about the cost of a 580EX II. I am thinking of maybe trying to get another 430EX (II) so that the output would be more balanced. Maybe save a little $$ as well.

Gary W.


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## Gary W. (Nov 23, 2011)

Hey all,

The main issue is to get more light on a HS football field. My 430EX works great when I can ensure that the flash trigger from the 7D will reach it. With my arm in the way, it is far from a guarantee. That is when I shoot in portrait mode, if I move the camera into landscape mode, the camera itself blocks the triggering flash.

Gary W.


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## PeterJ (Nov 23, 2011)

Gary W. said:


> Is there any voltage/power issues to deal with for running multiple flashes on cords?


Modern cameras and flashes use low-voltage logic to trigger, so you're unlikely to run into any problems like that. Older flashes that use high-voltage could damage your camera regardless of using a cord, but using anything generally recommended for a modern Canon camera should be OK.

The only reason I say 'should' is that if you use two different kinds of flashes they might "pull up" the trigger to slightly different voltages. That wouldn't damage the camera, but could damage one of the flash units. Frankly though a flash would have to be very poorly designed for that to happen so the chances are slim. Personally I wouldn't worry about it, especially if your're planning on an EX-series for the second flash.

Edit - another thought, I wonder if the PC sync cable still 'fires' with an ETTL flash attached? That way you could have full control over one flash and use the other manually. I've never tried it myself but if nobody else knows can try it tomorrow on my 7D and let you know.


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## briansquibb (Nov 23, 2011)

Gary W. said:


> Hey all,
> 
> The main issue is to get more light on a HS football field. My 430EX works great when I can ensure that the flash trigger from the 7D will reach it. With my arm in the way, it is far from a guarantee. That is when I shoot in portrait mode, if I move the camera into landscape mode, the camera itself blocks the triggering flash.
> 
> Gary W.



Put a 580EXII on a bracket and use a flash extender like this: http://www.speedgraphic.co.uk/diffusers_filters_etc/flash_xtender/12837_p.html

You need a more powerfull flash to get the distance.


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## RC (Nov 23, 2011)

Gary W. said:


> Hey all,
> 
> The main issue is to get more light on a HS football field. My 430EX works great when I can ensure that the flash trigger from the 7D will reach it. With my arm in the way, it is far from a guarantee. That is when I shoot in portrait mode, if I move the camera into landscape mode, the camera itself blocks the triggering flash.
> 
> Gary W.



I'm trying to get a visual of your setup. If I'm understanding you correctly you have a flash mounted above your camera on a mono-pod. You say it works when in portrait mode but not always in landscape mode. Are you using the OC-E3 or the 7D's pop up flash to trigger the Speedlight? I'm trying to figure out if you have a cord length issue or line of sight issue between the pop up flash to your Speedlight's sensor.

If it is a cord length issue (which I'm guessing it is not), you can purchase an extra long cord to use in place of your QC-E3. http://ocfgear.com/ettl-cord-extra-long/
They come in 5 or 10 meter lengths.

If it is a line of site issue, you can build a mount to hold multiple Speedlights such as two and then use a 3rd Speedlight (which is connected via your OC-E3 cord) to trigger the 2 main Speedlights. I realize this is beyond your mentioned budget but it's an option.

An excellent resource which covers what you are trying to do is covered in Syl Arena's Speedliter's Handbook: Learning to Craft Light with Canon Speedlites:
http://www.amazon.com/Speedliters-Handbook-Learning-Craft-Speedlites/dp/032171105X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1322055433&sr=8-1

BTW, I haven't tested it but I don't think you can you use two ETTL cords to trigger 2 Speedlights--at least in ETTL mode. I am curious is someone has tested this however.


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## scottkinfw (Nov 23, 2011)

Look into a Better Beamer, cheaper, no batteries, throws the light farther.

sek



RC said:


> Gary W. said:
> 
> 
> > Hey all,
> ...


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## Gary W. (Nov 23, 2011)

RC said:


> Gary W. said:
> 
> 
> > Hey all,
> ...



Hey all,

I have a 3 section Manfrotto monopod. With the camera on top, the flash is mounted on a bracket on the bottom of the top (thickest) section, below the camera.

When using the the wireless triggering built into the 7D and the flash below, my arm will block the flash on the 7D from reaching the sensor on the flash, because the light from the 7D's built in flash is what triggers the off camera flash. This is in portrait orientation. The camera body itself blocks the triggering when in landscape orientation. (I said "mode" earlier and realize that was wrong, hope it wasn't part of the source of confusion.)

Gary W.


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## Gary W. (Nov 23, 2011)

Hey all,

I only use the OC-E3 now and don't use the wireless trigger when shooting football, thought I should mention that.

Oh, yeah, @ RC, I would be using the flashes in manual mode, not ETTL.

Gary W.


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## RC (Nov 23, 2011)

Gary W. said:


> Hey all,
> 
> I only use the OC-E3 now and don't use the wireless trigger when shooting football, thought I should mention that.
> 
> Gary W.



OK, so you don't need to worry about line of sight for triggering flash.  I realize you want to get the flash off the axis of your lens but since you are shooting football games (I assume at a distance), I'm not sure if it makes any real difference having your flash mounted on your camera a opposed to a bracket attached to your camera. 

What are your shooting distances?
Is mounting your flash to your camera directly an option to solve your "arm in the way" problem?

If you just need more power (and light) on your subject at greater distances, consider scottkinfw previous post.


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## Gary W. (Nov 23, 2011)

Hey all,

The normal distance I try to shoot from is somewhere between [email protected] yards. Beyond that, I have to crop more than I would like, and less than that, everything gets blown out.

Using the cord solved the "arm in the way" issue.

Gary W.


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## RC (Nov 23, 2011)

Gary W. said:


> Hey all,
> 
> The normal distance I try to shoot from is somewhere between [email protected] yards. Beyond that, I have to crop more than I would like, and less than that, everything gets blown out.
> 
> ...



Wow, those are long distances. I have not used flash anywhere near those distances. Your 430 has a GN of 141' at ISO 100 when zoomed to 105mm. What ISO do you typically shoot at? Are you using full power manual or ETTL? It sounds like full power manual if you are blowing out images up close.


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## Gary W. (Nov 24, 2011)

Hey all,

I shoot with flash on manual at full power. Depending on the stadium lights, I will shoot at ISO 1600-3200. HS football stadium lights SUCK!!! I shoot with a ss of 1/500 - 1/640 in Tv mode with an EC of +4 1/3. Flash compensation of +3. 

Shots at 20-25 yards get the best exposure with these settings, for me. I have to play with shots outside that range more in post.

Gary W.


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## RC (Nov 24, 2011)

Gary W. said:


> Hey all,
> 
> I shoot with flash on manual at full power. Depending on the stadium lights, I will shoot at ISO 1600-3200. HS football stadium lights SUCK!!! I shoot with a ss of 1/500 - 1/640 in Tv mode with an EC of +4 1/3. Flash compensation of +3.
> 
> ...



That's a tall order for flash photography. I' have no experience with this type of flash shooting, hopefully a sports/flash expert can chime in. 

I would experiment with ETTL and maybe some FEC, and also try high speed sync at those shutter speeds.

Good luck


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