I do not think tilt/shift would work for that unless the butterfly would stay perfectly still.
Try stopping down your aperture.
1) I've said I've done it. You're welcome not to believe me but why would someone lie about that?
2) If you don't know how something works, just ask. Someone will probably explain it and maybe even get an old slide scanned just for your edification.
3) You can't really shoot macro by just stopping down more. You're already at f/16 probably and that's nowhere near enough DOF but f/22 and f/32 get such bad diffraction the softness renders the shot useless.
4) Butterflies stay still enough, now and then, to shoot. Much of the time they don't and when they don't, no other macro lens is going to work either. That's true whether you have a dedicated macro or a 90TS with a 250D or 500D diopter on it or a 2xTC.
5) You may be thinking TS somehow "takes more time" than a normal macro, but it doesn't really. To shoot butterflies and moths in the field, I pre-focus a macro and move it back and forth until it looks in focus. So it might be 15cm away from the subject at the bottom of the photo, and the same distance away at the top of the photo, and it's in focus, right? Do that 100 times and you'll get a handful of shots that are in focus, without subject movement, and with a decent composition.
The same basically works for TS. Generally speaking, you'll tilt the lens a few degrees, which actually tilts the plane of focus near on the bottom, and farther on the top. Now, the focus distance is more like 12cm at the bottom and 16cm at the top. Again it's just a crap shoot, moving the camera back and forth until you get the thing in focus.
What you may not have noted is that since you're not refocusing or retilting the lens, that 12cm/16cm or whatever is constant. After a couple shots, and practicing on a leaf for 10 seconds, you learn where the plane of focus is. You've got it sized to properly frame a butterfly wing taking up about 60% of the vertical height of the image when it's 45 degrees from perpendicular to you. Butterflies don't change size by a large factor as you're shooting them! They're the same size! And if you lose one individual it's a practical certainty another will come by for the same food plants. So, the lens stays in the same place as long as you're shooting. And you learn muscle memory of how to reorient the camera if one part is in focus but another not: maybe you need to tilt your body more, maybe less, with respect to the beast. You may have some mental image of someone composing a shot, THEN trying to focus, THEN tilt, needing a refocus, then more tilt, or less tilt, which changes the composition, so recompose... You'd be right to suspect there's not time for that, just as you'd be wrong to assume that's how it has to be done.
TLDR: to shoot butterflies in a field pre-focus and pre-tilt. Practice on a leaf the size of a butterfly wing, and the 90TS won't be any harder than a dedicated macro.